Wednesday, 30 May 2018

PREEMIE CAPS 18 - FLOWER CAPS


free crochet pattern, free crochet headwear pattern, free crochet cap pattern, free crochet beanie pattern, free crochet new born baby cap pattern, free crochet preemie baby cap pattern, donations, donation ideas, flower cap pattern, Oswal Cashmilon yarn, 4 mm crochet hook, Gold Coast Hospitals Charity Foundation, Redland hospital charity foundation Cleveland, Australia donation,

PREEMIE CAPS 18

FLOWER CAPS


As I was going through inspiration for my preemie caps for my donation, I found this absolutely stunning selection of flower caps.. and this is not something I could pass by.
I have made four cute little flowers, and there are four different ideas and patterns for the green sepal tops for each. 
Thank you for joining me in our fun creativity session today.

These caps have been donated between the Gold Coast Hospitals Foundation charity and the Redland Hospital Charity, Cleveland, Australia.

Redland Hospital Charity, Cleveland, Australia.

Materials used : Today I’ve used some of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarns with a 4 mm crochet hook 

Skill level : Intermediate.
These patterns all use post stitches.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                             dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                  ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                 rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :




Instructions using U.S terminology



For my preemie caps I have worked the pattern ensuring I have a total length of 4” and a circumference of 12”. Please check the top of this blog for a sizing chart.

I have worked in hdc all through for all my preemie caps.

In general the pattern I’ve used for my caps is as follows.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 10 hdc in that circle.
 Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (10)

Round 2 : (Increase round ) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (20)

Round 3 : (Increase round ) : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (30)

Round 4 : (Increase round ) : hdc in the 1st 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)

Check that your hat circumference is about 12” for preemie.

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)

Rep Round 5 till you have a finished length of 4”.
After making all these caps, I found that 36 hdc give me the circumference I need and then I work without any increase till I have about 4 – 4.25” for my preemie babies.

I have been inspired by the pattern link at http://wonderfuldiy.com/wonderful-diy-adorable-crochet-baby-bluebell-hat/. 
In case you can read charts, please visit the link now.

What I have done for all my preemie caps, is to check to see if the pattern link works  (using my yarn and hook) – if it did not, then I worked my pattern above and then embellished as instructed.
With the embellishments too, if I had to reduce size (as my cap is so tiny), then I reduced my hook size and/or tightened my stitch.  I have also opted not to use any poly fill stuffing (as these are for preemies) – but found that tightening the stitch did hold the part up quite well.  Hope this works for you too.



1.        Bluebell & Yellow morning glory caps



Aren’t these just too beautiful ?  I couldn’t help myself.. I just went ahead and made this pattern in four colours.  Let's see how you can resist them ;)

Materials used : Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm & 4mm crochet hook
Skill level : Easy

Here’s the pattern I worked for this cap.  You could work the basic pattern that I’ve written at the top as well, but for a slight difference, I’ve worked a round of post stitches – and that helps define the different petals.
I have given ideas and patterns for three different types of sepals (green top). Please check all the way down the blog to see which one you’d like.

Start Round 1: with a magic circle and 12 hdc in that circle.
 Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (12)

In the following round, we will work with post stitches.  As I am working with hdc, I opted to work a front post half double crochet or fphdc.

bp-hdc and fp-hdc : Back Post and Front Post Half Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.  We will only use front post stitches, but do view this video for both front and back post stitches. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJURAVWuVB0

Round 2 : (Increase round ) : hdc + fphdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (24)

Round 3 : (Increase round ) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*2 hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)

Round 4 : hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ;  fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ;  ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)

In the following round, we will work a “V”-st which is (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, “V”-st in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*“V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Rep Round 6 till you are about 3 rows away from the full length needed.
How do you know when you are near the full length?
You will need to calculate the length of the stitch and see how many inches you are adding – so yes, you are working a gauge.

Now just for convenience, I am going to continue numbering.  You are not on Round 7 as you have worked repeats to get it to the length needed – but you get that, right?

Round 7 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ;  hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 8 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ;  3 dc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 9 : hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ;  3 dc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

For the stem 1 : For blue flower : 


(green top bit) of this cap, I worked leaf  & stem patterns from the pumpkins (using a 3.5mm crochet hook) as given and it worked right. Check my  blog posted yesterday titled Preemie cap 17 (Thanksgiving series) for a look-see.

Scroll down to the end of this blog for the second idea for stem.


1.        Orange & Red caps



I have worked the pattern almost similar to the beautiful bluebell cap, but I just changed the “V”-st in the middle.
For the orange cap, I started with 9 hdc.
For the red cap, I started with 7 hdc.
Pattern same for both.  See which one works for you.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 9 hdc in that circle.
 Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (9)

Round 2 : (Increase round ) : hdc + fphdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (18)

Round 3 : (Increase round ) : hdc in the 1st hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

In the following round, we will work a “V”-st which is (2 hdc ; ch 1, 2 hdc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, “V”-st in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*“V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep Round 4 till you are about 3 rows away from the full length needed.
How do you know when you are near the full length?
You will need to calculate the length of the stitch and see how many inches you are adding – so yes, you are working a gauge.

Now just for convenience, I am going to continue numbering. 
Again, you are not on Round 4 as you have worked repeats to get it to the length needed – but you get that, right?

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ;  hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 6 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ;  3 dc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 7 : hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ;  3 dc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

For stem 2 : For yellow flower : (Using green)


Let’s not join at the end of each round, but place a marker instead and work in spirals for a seamless neat finish.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 hdc in that circle.
Place a marker in the 1st hdc. (6)

Rounds 2 - 4 : hdc in each hdc all around.  (6)
Note : Check the length that you get and decide how long you want this.  Work as many rounds as you want for length (i.e as many rep as you need then carry on to Round 5).

Round 5 : hdc in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (6)

We will now create the sepals (green top) in a continuous movement.  So first we will work the centre ribs of each sepal and then come back and finish each one individually.  Got it?

Round 6 : *ch 7. Turn and sl-st in the 2nd ch from hk,
and in each of the next 5 ch ; sl-st into the base of the ch ;
sl-st in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* 5 times all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 long strips)

We have made 6 long strips that are the centre ribs of each sepal.  We will work all around these strips individually now.

Round 7 : *sc in the 1st st ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; dc in the next 2 sts ; 3 dc in the last st ; Turn and work around the other side of the strip ; dc in the next 2 sts ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; sc in the last st ; sl-st in the base of st from Round 6* ;
rep *to* 5 times all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.


For stem 3 : For orange flower : (Using green)



I changed the pattern just in Round 7 to get a slight different shape to the sepal.  So work Rounds 1 – 6 first.

Round 7 : sc in the 1st st ; (hdc + dc + hdc all in the next st) ;
*[sl-st into the next st ; rep (to) in the next st] ;
rep [to] once ;
sl-st into the next st ;
Turn and work around the other side of the strip ;
rep [to] 3 times ; sc in the last st ; sl-st in the base of st from Round 6* ;
rep *to* 5 times all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.


For stem 4 : For red flower : (Using green)


I changed the pattern just in Round 7 to get a slight different shape to the sepal.  So once again, work Rounds 1 – 6 first.

Round 6 : *ch 6. Turn ; dc in the 2nd ch from hk ;
dc in the next ch ; dc + hdc in the next ch ;
hdc in the next ch ; sc in the last ch ;
sl-st into the base of this same ch ;
sl-st in the next st* ;
rep *to* 5 times all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 long strips)
Fasten off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.

I’ve had such fun creating these lovely hats here and I hope you have enjoyed it too.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my other creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too