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Monday, 17 May 2021
GORGEOUS STRIPED BEANIE
GORGEOUS STRIPED BEANIE
I have been given a small bag of yarn and requested to make beanies & / or scarves for the homeless. I'm hoping that there's going to be more yarn - which also means there will be more patterns discovered and written.
In my patterns, I make you think - a little bit. I always have loads of ideas sprinkled through the blog and give you a chance to make something unique each time.. so remember to read through before you start.
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but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Please notethat I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.
Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.
I've given optional finishes for the beanie, and if you decide to use it, you need to work the pattern length before that.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
We're using the principle of the Linen stitch, but working with hdc instead of sc.
The videos below show you how to work the regular linen stitch with sc, but they'll give you an idea of what we're dong here today.
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 1 hdc in it ;
(ch 1, hdc in the same magic circle) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 1 and join to the1st st with a sl-st (6 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Round 2 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st. (12 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
In the following round we increase again. We work (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) in each of the earlier (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) ; but we add hdc just before and after stitches too.
Now usually we work on a stitch, but for today's pattern, we're going to work between stitches.
How to seamlessly crochet in rounds : When working with head wear, this is a really neat way to seamlessly end each round. Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to this at https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE
If using 2 colors, change color now.
Round 3 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*hdc in the space before the next st ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to. the1st st (18 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Switch to Main or 1st color now. Do not cut alternate or Contrast color.
Ensure that you bring the contrast color up every round till you need to use it again
Round 4 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*[hdc in the space before the next st] ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (24 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change back to main color
Round 5 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*[hdc in the space before the next st] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (30 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change over to contrast color now
Round 6 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk next hdc,[hdc in the next hdc ;
2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc] ;
sk next hdc, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (36 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change back to main color
In the following round we increase again.
We work (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) in each of the earlier (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) ; but we add hdc just before and after stitches too.
Now usually we work on a stitch, but for today's pattern, we're going to work between stitches
Round 7 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*[hdc in the space before the next st] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (42 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Round 8 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk next hdc,[hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc] ;
sk next hdc, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (48 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change over to contrast color now
Round 9 :
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*[hdc in the space before the next st] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (48 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change back to main color
Round 10 : Increase round
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk next hdc,[hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 3 hdc] ;
sk next hdc, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (54 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Round 11 :
(hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*[hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next 3 hdc] ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (60 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Change back to contrast color
Let's check circumference now
Here's a good method to check the circumference to see if it’s the right size. To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.
If it is, continue without any further increase till you get the length you want for your beanie.
In case you need a wider circumference, please increase one more round.
Rep Round 6 till you reach the length you want for your beanie.
1.Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2.Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3.Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Round 12 :
2 hdc all in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 9 hdc ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (66 hdc ; 6 ch-1 sps)
Now continue without any increase, till you have a length of 7 -8".
We need to work about 8 - 9".
For the last 1" we will work 1 hdc in each st all around
Check the top of this blog for head sizing charts.
Last 5 - 6 Rounds :
hdc all in the 1st hdc ;
and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the1st st (66 hdc)
In case you want to change colors, then work 2 or 3 rounds in one color, and change for the next round, then work 2 or 3 rounds in the 1st color again.
I worked 3 rounds in purple, 1 in off-white, and 3 in purple again to finish.
You could work on a small flap as well.. I am working with limited yarn so I'm being careful with usage... and I've not done the flap finish.
For the optional flap, we work in post stitches.
So if you decide to have that finish, for the last few rows (after Round 12) go straight to instructions for the optional finish.
In case you decide to work in the flap, you will first work till you are at the length you need and then work the flap bit. The flap will just fold over so I’ve worked a different st. We will work in post stitches for the flap.
Front post half double crochet : fphdc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk
Back post half double crochet : bphdc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bphdc at https://youtu.be/9jJHgDX2MsE
As you’ve managed so well without joining, you could continue all the way to the end without joining and have a seamless finish.
However, you can get a beautiful project even if you decide to join at the last st.
Next round : Work a hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around ;
Do not join at the last st ;
Move marker.
We will now work post stitches for the flap.
Flap round 1 : Work a fphdc around the 1st hdc ;
(bphdc around the next hdc ; fphdc around the next hdc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Do not join at the last st.
Flap round 2 : Work a fphdc around the 1st fphdc ;
(bphdc around the next bphdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Do not join at the last st.
You do not need the marker anymore.
You will just work a fphdc around each fphdc and a bphdc around the next bpdc – so you don’t even need to look at the pattern as this is all you do.
Continue rep Flap Round 2 till you get to the length you wish for your fold down flap.
In your last round, for the last 3 sts (just to get the stitch length right), work a post st using sc in the second last 2 sts and then work a sl-st in the last st. You can work a sl-st for about 2 – 3 sts to get it to a neat slide too.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Block as per yarn requirement, if needed.
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