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Thursday, 24 November 2016
REVERSIBLE RIBBED BEANIE FOR MEN
I was asked to make a cap for a friend’s son –
and I wondered if there are specific “men” and “ladies” caps.. “Unisex” ones,
yes.. there are.. and then I saw this photograph.. and I thought hmmm.. this is
neat.
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I am not sure if there is a pattern to this and I’m not even sure if this
is how the pattern is worked, but I thought I’d try and make the cap (not the
beard portion – though this is a pretty neat idea, isn’t it?).
I think I am going to make that as well..
someday.. so keep an eye out for this blog page, won’t you?!
Here are my notes as I make my project for the
beanie.
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
For this project, we will be working in up and
down from the brim of your cap to the crown, and we will work with the lovely
Camel stitch to get the lovely ribbed effect on our beanie.
The Camel stitch is a lot like working in the
back loop. The main difference is that
for back loop, we work in the back part of our stitch, but for this Camel
stitch we work in the loop that is behind
and beyond the back loop. Sounds a little confusing, but once you get
it, it’s a breeze... and here's a video for the stitch using hdc
In case you find it confusing to work the Camel
stitch, check out the single crochet back loop only and work that stitch, and here's a video for sc-blo using one color yarn
One quick idea right off the bat – The thicker
the yarn size, the better the ridged effect… and it would also be easier to
work in the Camel stitch.
Now right here are a set of charts to give you
the head size, circumference as well as ‘height’ (from crown to brim) and I
suggest you check that first if you do not have the person you are making this
for right in front of you for a constant check.
For head wear, I advise that you make the beret / beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.
Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.
1.Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2.Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3.Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
So as we’re working in up to down or side to side, we will be making a rectangular
project and one side will be the brim, and the other side will be joined up to
make the crown bit. We will then join two sides of our rectangle, and then one
side to make the crown. Easy enough, right?
OK, just before we start, one last thing. I’ve worked two sets of similar patterns
right here… so check both out before you start off.
Start : with as
many fsc as needed to get from the forehead to the crown of your head. Turn.
You can work either a dc or an hdc in
the following row.
I am working a hdc,
as I feel that the yarn I’m using will show the stitch better this way. If you are using a thick yarn, try this with
a dc and you will get a better spacing between ridges.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Row 1 : hdc in the
1st fsc and in each fsc till end.
Turn.
In the following row, we will use our fpsc or
Front Post Single Crochet.
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Row 2 : sc in the 1st st ;
fpsc in the next st and in each st till the last one ;
sc in the last st. Turn.
In the following row, we will work our Camel
Stitch using the hdc.
So this means that
you will work a hdc in the loop behind and beyond the back loop.
“hdc Camel stitch” in the next st and in each st till the
last one ;
hdc in the last st. Turn.
And that’s it.. our pattern done. Check the ridge on both sides of your work –
neat pattern on both sides, right?
Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending with Row 2, working
till you have about 2” less than the total circumference needed*.
*Note : Depending on the stretch of your
yarn and the looseness of your work / hook-stitch tension, you will get a neat
stretch on your work. Before you join
the two ends, do a quick stretch-check and see if you need 2” less than
circumference or more/less.
I just made this again using (Australian) Spotlight Semco acrylic 8-ply yarn - still the same amazing finish
Finishing :
You will have a rectangle when you are done.
First you need to join the two shorter sides of your rectangle. This will give you a cylinder-like shape.
So one of the open ends will go onto your head,
and the other open end will be the crown of the cap.
Thread your yarn into an embroidery needle, and
run a round of loose running stitches (just working it in and out of your work
= running stitch) along the top edge.
Pull lightly to bring the end close together. Continue to run rows of running stitches to
close the top and neatly sew in the ends.
If you plan on using this as a reversible top, you will need to be
careful and super neat so that both sides of your cap have a neat top/crown
finish.
I know you are going to have great fun with this
cap – do remember to credit my blog for this when you finish your work and show
it off. ThanksIf you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
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