Thursday, 24 November 2016

REVERSIBLE RIBBED BEANIE FOR MEN

crochet beanie for men

crochet beanie for men

REVERSIBLE RIBBED BEANIE FOR MEN


I was asked to make a cap for a friend’s son – and I wondered if there are specific “men” and “ladies” caps.. “Unisex” ones, yes.. there are.. and then I saw this photograph.. and I thought hmmm.. this is neat. 


I am not sure if there is a pattern to this and I’m not even sure if this is how the pattern is worked, but I thought I’d try and make the cap (not the beard portion – though this is a pretty neat idea, isn’t it?).

I think I am going to make that as well.. someday.. so keep an eye out for this blog page, won’t you?!

Here are my notes as I make my project for the beanie.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply yarns with a 4 mm crochet hook 

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                   ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                  rep : Repeat
hdc : Half Double crochet                               sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only
fpsc : Front Post Single Crochet


Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Foundation half double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of chainless double crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90iUfQ-_1IM

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Front post single crochet : The front post single crochet stitch is one where you work your single crochet stitch around the post from the front of the stitch.  The video here will show you how easy this is.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PF05loiXDjA

How to do the Camel stitch : The camel stitch is a lot like the back loop stitch, but you get a knitted finish on the top of your work.  Check out this video to see how to get this done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJorQch4D0

How to single crochet in back loop only (sc-blo) : Check these videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phf7Nj0_LJg  OR http://crochet.about.com/od/crochetterms/tp/back-loops-only-or-blo.htm

Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc.

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
 
How to join the two ends of your work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUGb9pIcsXE

For this project, we will be working in up and down from the brim of your cap to the crown, and we will work with the lovely Camel stitch to get the lovely ribbed effect on our beanie.

The Camel stitch is a lot like working in the back loop.  The main difference is that for back loop, we work in the back part of our stitch, but for this Camel stitch we work in the loop that is behind and beyond  the back loop.  Sounds a little confusing, but once you get it, it’s a breeze.  Check the video and you’ll see what I mean.

In case you find it confusing to work the Camel stitch, check out the single crochet back loop only and work that stitch.

One quick idea right off the bat – The thicker the yarn size, the better the ridged effect… and it would also be easier to work in the Camel stitch.

Now right here are a set of charts to give you the head size, circumference as well as ‘height’ (from crown to brim) and I suggest you check that first if you do not have the person you are making this for right in front of you for a constant check.

So as we’re working in up to down or side to side, we will be making a rectangular project and one side will be the brim, and the other side will be joined up to make the crown bit. We will then join two sides of our rectangle, and then one side to make the crown. Easy enough, right? 

OK, just before we start, one last thing.  I’ve worked two sets of similar patterns right here… so check both out before you start off.

Instructions using U.S terminology

Start : with as many fsc as needed to get from the forehead to the crown of your head. Turn.

You can work either a dc or an hdc in the following row.  I am working a hdc, as I feel that the yarn I’m using will show the stitch better this way.  If you are using a thick yarn, try this with a dc and you will get a better spacing between ridges.

Row 1 : hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we will use our fpsc or Front Post Single Crochet.  Check under “Stitches used” for a “how to”.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st hdc ; fpsc in the next hdc and in each hdc till the last one ; sc in the last hdc.  Turn.

In the following row, we will work our Camel Stitch using the hdc.  So this means that you will work a hdc in the loop behind and beyond the back loop.

Row 3 : hdc in the 1st sc ; “hdc Camel stitch” in the next sc and in each sc till the last one ; hdc in the last sc.  Turn.

And that’s it.. our pattern done.  Check the ridge on both sides of your work – neat pattern on both sides, right?





crochet beanie for men

crochet beanie for men


Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending with Row 2, working till you have about 2” less than the total circumference needed*.
*Note : Depending on the stretch of your yarn and the looseness of your work / hook-stitch tension, you will get a neat stretch on your work.  Before you join the two ends, do a quick stretch-check and see if you need 2” less than circumference or more/less.

Finishing :
You will have a rectangle when you are done. First you need to join the two shorter sides of your rectangle.  This will give you a cylinder-like shape.
So one of the open ends will go onto your head, and the other open end will be the crown of the cap.
Thread your yarn into an embroidery needle, and run a round of loose running stitches (just working it in and out of your work = running stitch) along the top edge.  Pull lightly to bring the end close together.  Continue to run rows of running stitches to close the top and neatly sew in the ends.  If you plan on using this as a reversible top, you will need to be careful and super neat so that both sides of your cap have a neat top/crown finish.

I know you are going to have great fun with this cap – do remember to credit my blog for this when you finish your work and show it off.  Thanks


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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few pieces of headwear already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J