NEAT QUICK FLOPPY HAT
The cute top of our floppy actually reminds me of a samosa
(which for the non-Indians who may not know), is a savoury fried
or baked pastry snack, with a yummy filling.
This snack is
traditionally triangular shaped, a lot like our floppy hat here ;)
But what’s in a name, right.. the stuff about a rose being a rose
and all that blah..
I can confirm that this hat will show you and your lovely
talent off.. no matter what you or I call it.
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Materials used : KDR Baby Love acrylic 4-ply baby fingering yarn, ~ 40 gms (1.5 balls), with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
This yarn is not specific for this pattern. Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make it to any size
Size made : Head circumference : 21”
Gauge : 4 dc (across) x 3 dc rows (high) = 1”
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
Instructions : (Using U.S
terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
The pattern starts in
the centre crown of head and it then circles its way all around. down to the
forehead, with a really lovely pattern.
Right so let’s get on
with it.
I also think that this cute floppy hat is worth a wear at Ascot .. you know.. the slightly stiff upper lip, the little pinkie in the air, the beautifully ruffled edges of your umbrella fluttering in the light breeze.. and you smartly ‘hidden’ under the floppiness of this lovely hat .. yes, I get that image too.. but of course, I would use a lighter yarn – a nice cotton/bamboo/silk or linen yarn for this then.. for just the right floppiness and the delicateness of this cute pattern to show through… so yep, this one is getting done once more by me, for sure.. Ascot or not !
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
For head wear, I advise that you make the beret / beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.
Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
The full chart is right at the end of this write up.
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Slip stitch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB3QNbA8Iw&t=1s
Start with
a magic circle and 12 dc into that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 1 : 2
dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 2, sk next dc , 2 dc
in the next dc* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 2, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : (Increase
round) :
dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ,
dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 3, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ,
dc in the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 3, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Rounds 4 - 8 : Rep
Row 3 increasing 6 dc per round following the chart below for reference.
You will have 9 dc at the end of Round 8
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo
Round 9 : (Decrease
round) :
dc in the 1st 7 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc
;
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp
;
*ch 3, dc in the
next 7 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 3, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Round 10 : (Decrease
round) :
dc in the 1st 6 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc
;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
*ch 3, dc in the
next 6 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, [ch 3, sc in next
ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 3, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Rounds 11-16 : (Decrease
round) :
Rep Round 10 decreasing 6 dc per round, till you have one dc 2-tog
(which equals 1 dc) per ‘spoke’ or ‘triangle’.
Now you should have a neat
round doily-like circle that should fit the crown of your head, and extend
around it just a bit. If it doesn’t look like it’s floppy enough for you,
you could do one more round of ch-3’s all around (i.e ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp)
– you would also get one sc that goes into the dc 2-tog all around, but you
figured that
So to end this cute hat
here, I’ve given it a bit of a border – so for my border
Border Round :
(5
dc in the 1st ch 3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) till end
;
ch 1 and join with sl-st
to the 1st dc 2-tog.
Do note that there is no border in the original pattern , so you
could also end with that filigree edging.. as always.. decisions.. choices a-plenty.
Fasten off then and
weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip your cool creation on and show off.. you
deserve to
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my
other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too
