Sweet Nothings Crochet: October 2023

SUMMER BOLERO

This cool lacy light summer bolero has a very unusual pattern. A slightly fuller patterned base with a light lacy top, is just what summer calls for.

As always, in this pattern too, I give you loads of ideas and give you a lot of opportunity for creativity and thought. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook and make this to any size, using my detailed instructions.

This pattern here was yet another one floating the web, that has no written pattern that I could find. Here are my notes as I make this creation

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 200 gms unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Ganga Olivia acrylic yarn. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

Size made : M/ 34"

Difficulty level : Advanced

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

You also need to decide (& measurements you need) before you start :

1) Length of top (front and back)

2) Round chest measurement

3) Depth (or dip) of neckline

4) Round armhole measurement (just so that we can ensure proper side coverage)

Read all the notes below before you jump into the pattern

For this pattern we start with making a set of motifs that will go around the base of your bolero - making a tape of sorts.

So we work one motif and then measure the length and breadth / width of it before deciding how many more we need to go around the waist/hip of the bolero.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 9 dc in it ;

(ch 5, 9 dc in the same magic circle) ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc* ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, dc in the next dc] ;

rep *to* once ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, and join to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep *to* once ;

ch 5, and join to the 1st st.

and that's one motif finished.

Measure the width (side to side) of this motif to see how many motifs you need for your round waist / hips (depending on how long you want your bolero)

Start on the next motif and on the last round you can attach using the Join-as-you-go joining method : https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk

ch 2, join with sc in the next ch-5 sp of adjoining motif ;

ch 2, join with sc in the next ch-5 sp of motif you are working on

Round 3 for joining : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

[ch 2, join with sc in the next ch-5 sp of adjoining motif ;

ch 2, join with sc in the next ch-5 sp of motif you are working on] ;

rep [to] once* ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep *to* once ;

ch 5, and join to the 1st st.

Two motifs finished and joined as we work.

That has been easy hasn't it. But before you go, please read the notes below.

Now let's go and make as many as we need for the round waist. You need to make two pieces for the front that will equal to half round waist/hip measurement and one for the back that is the other half of the round waist/hip measurement.

For advanced crocheters : You can make one round strip that is the waist / hip measurement but remember that you will need to divide for armhole in a slightly different way.

After you have finished the tape for the base we will work on the lacy top portion.

If you have worked 2 fronts and one back, you will need to join all parts to finish.

If you have worked one continuous tape for front and back, then you need to divide for armholes a little differently as we work the top piece then in a continuous way.

So decide all of this now before you start on your base tape.

Once your base tape is done, let's continue with the pattern.

We will now work side to side in Rows and I'll continue numbering from Round 3.

Please note that if you are working two fronts and one back, you will repeat all these instructions three times

Row 4 :

Re-attach your yarn at the right side 1st dc ; dc in that same 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all the way to the end. Turn.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Row 5 :

dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and in the 1st ch-1 sp ;

dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;

*(dc 2-tog over the next dc and the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

dc 2-tog over the next dc and the next ch-1 sp ;

dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;

dc 2-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last dc. Turn

Row 6 :

dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

*rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 7 :

dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and in the 1st ch-1 sp ;

dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;

*(dc 2-tog over the next dc and the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;

dc 2-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last dc. Turn

You can choose to stop the motif base pattern at this point or repeat it one more time. We do need to replicate all these rows on the other side of the motif as well, which will all add to the length of the project. So I suggest you measure the length, calculate how much more we will get (by adding the rows on the other side) before you work the final 2 row repeats.

Row 8 :

Rep Row 6

Row 9 :

Rep Row 7

detail of lower portion of SUMMER BOLERO

Now we need to replicate Rows 4 - 7 (or 9) on the other side of the motif too.

You can choose to work this part now, or carry on with the body pattern and work these rows at the end ;

OR work these rows now and then that becomes the body of the bolero.

Either way, I am going to give instructions for the body of the bolero, continuing numbering with Row 10.

OR you just stop here, start on the body of the top and have a scalloped finish for the base

Row 10 :

sc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Row 11 :

dc in the 1st sc ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn

Row 12 :

sc in the 1st dc ;

ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the last dc. Turn

And that's our lacy pattern.

Rep Rows 11 - 12 till you reach the armhole, ending with Row 12.

The pattern is the same for the back

For the armhole shaping : I skipped 3 ch-5 sps (sl-st through them) ,

I then worked dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-5 sps, and then worked Row 11 pattern. I repeated the dc 2-tog decrease once more along the armhole end and I had the shape I needed for my armhole. I then continued working without decrease till I reached the shoulders.

For the neckline shaping : The decrease idea is the same as we do for the armhole. You just need to keep in mind where you want to start shaping for neckline.

Remember that sometimes your armhole shaping and neckline shaping may be at almost the same point, so you will decrease at both ends for a row or 2

Joining all parts : Once you have completed the two fronts and one back, you need to join sides and shoulders.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

For sleeves : I mulled over making sleeves but decided against it. Had I made sleeves I'd have chosen to work the same border tape pattern followed by the simple lacy pattern.

For this you start with the motif first and then work the cylindrical top part of the sleeve ending with joining neatly at the armholes.

Finishing : Work hdc (or dc) all around the armhole, base of top as well as neckline.

For the placket, remember to add button holes along one side. For this you just work a ch-sp, skipping sts in between, when working the hdc or dc finishing (skipping sts depending on the size of the button you're using)

You can then choose to work a small border for the placket as well.

Border : If you want a border, ensure that you have worked in multiples of 5 all around the border.

sc in the 1st st ;

(sk next 2 sts , 5 dc in the next st ; sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around the placket, around front of neckline, back of neckline and back around to the other side of the placket.

Finish off.

Note : You can choose to work the border pattern all around from placket to neckline and down the other side of placket and then along the base as well, finishing where you started off.

I will also suggest you then work this border pattern along the end of the sleeves to match.

How to make this a top : The beauty of this pattern is that you can do so much with it.

Instead of making two fronts and one back, work the same pattern for one front and one back (which means half the waist or hip measurement, depending on how long you want the top - or basically what you have done here for the back).

Follow all instructions as given, but obviously we will not work a front placket.

You can decide if you want this sleeveless, cap-sleeved or full sleeved with the ideas given for sleeves.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html