Sweet Nothings Crochet: DIAMOND VEST

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet sleeveless top pattern, modeled photo of the finished Diamond Vest

This vest has been specially created for my niece. She was also torn for choice with the range of patterns I offered to make for her – so this is one of three she chose.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 3 (100 gm) balls of the lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton, with a 2.5 mm crochet hook.

You can make this project using any yarn with a suitable hook.
For Non-Indians :  I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced crochet skills

The pattern is a common lattice / spider pattern one, but its adaptation to the vest makes it slightly tricky. There are several ch-sps in the mix that add to the difficultly level. That said, once you figure out the pattern, it's an easy finish.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Inspired by one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net,  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. Thank you Rajeshwari & Clara for sharing this lovely pattern and exciting me to create this beautiful vest.

May I request you to please go through all my detailed instructions before you start for your own convenience. Cheers.

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We start at the base of our top at the back and work upwards to the shoulders.

This is, therefore, a bottom up construction.

When we reach neck level, we will divide for the shoulders.

The front and back of the top are the same – just that you could change the level of the neckline.

How do we make this vest / top to suit any size?

Just check the stitch count and make that for the waist / hip / bust size you need.

There is no shaping for the sides of the top - so we're basically working a rectangle from the base of the top / vest all the way to the armholes.

So you need to take the three measurements (bust/waist/hip) and work half round measurement for each half of your top.

You will also use the largest measurement.

Keep in mind the stretch of your yarn and the fact that this lovely diamond pattern opens up and stretches a bit too.

Easy enough, right?  So let’s get started…

PART 1 : FRONT & BACK  :
Our stitch count is in multiples of 24 + 3.

We work the same pattern for front and back.

So start with the number of stitches you need for the width of you top.

When working this first row, keep in mind the instructions given above.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Row 1 : Start with fdc in multiples of 24 + 3. Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

[ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 9, sk next 3 dc ; 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] once;

rep to till last 4 dc ;

rep [to] once. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

* [ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-9 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] once * ;

rep to till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

[ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep to till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in next ch-2 sp;

rep to till last ch-3 sp ;

dc in last ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next 5 sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp;

rep to till end ;

ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next 7 sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp;

rep to till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next 7 sc) ;

ch 5, sk next sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep to till end ;

ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next 5 sc) ;

ch 5, sk next sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

rep to till end ;

ch 2, sk last 3 dc , dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, dc in 1^st ch-sp ;

[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

(ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc) ;

ch 5, sk next sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

rep to till last ch-sp ;

ch 2, sk last 3 dc, dc in last ch-sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 11 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

(ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ;

ch 5, sk next sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc , dc in next ch-2 sp ;

{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp} ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

rep to till last ch-sp ;

ch 2, sk last 3 dc, dc in last ch-sp ;

ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, dc in 1^st ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

ch 1, sk next sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc , dc in next ch-2 sp ;

{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp} ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

rep to till last 2 ch-sps ;

ch 2, sk last 3 dc, dc in next ch-sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp] ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc , dc in next ch-2 sp ;

{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp} ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp ;

rep to till end. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 3, dc in 1^st ch-3 sp ;

{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;

ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 9, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep {to} 3 times ;

rep to till end. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 – 14 till your project reaches the armhole level , ending with Row 13.

Armhole shaping :

For convenience, I will restart row numbering.

We will then reduce half a diamond on either end at this point.

Row 1 : sl-st in all dc and ch’s till you reach the 1^st 3-dc set ;

sk 1^st dc (of this 1^st 3 dc set), dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sk next dc , dc in next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp ;

ch 9, sk next 3 dc, dc in next ch-sp] ;

{ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next ch-sp} ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once ;

rep to till last 3 dc set ;

ch 1, sk 1^st dc and dc in next dc (of last 3-dc set). Turn.

We will now rep Rows 5 – 14 once.

Note : You may not need a full rep of Rows 5-14, as we also need to remember that there is a neckline that we need to deal with – so keeping the above as a guide, we’ll work the armhole opening and meet for the neckline.

For my creation, I’ve used a template of a top (my nieces' top - for whom this top is intended for), and using that as a guide, I worked till I had reached the armhole point, and then used it again to determine when to divide for neckline.

For neckline / shoulder strap bit, I worked only one ‘diamond’ from armhole end, till I reached shoulder.

I then re-attached yarn and repeated this for the other end, and then the front as well.

Just for fun, I’ve allowed the front of the top a few rows lower than the back… at the neckline, I mean.

BORDER : The pattern chart below shows a small neat border that runs all around the bottom edge of the top.

So to get that done, first we will attach the front and back at the shoulders and sides, and then run one continuous round for the bottom.

Round 1 : *ch 7, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around till last 5 dc ;

ch 4, trc in the last dc.

(You are now in the centre of that last ch-7 sp - so we will start right here).

Round 2 : *ch 7, sk next sc ; sc in the next ch-7 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till last ch-7 sp ;

ch 4, trc in the last sc.

(You are now in the centre of that last ch-7 sp).

Rep Round 2 two more times.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Final note : Want to add some bling?

Add a row (or two?) of matching beads hanging off every last ch-7 sp in the centre.

Now you can either do this in that last round , or you could add them on at the end.

FINISHING :
First off join sides and shoulders. Here are a few ways to neatly join.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

We also need to neaten the edges of our neckline and armhole.

So I’ve neatly picked up sc’s all around the edges (of both neck and armhole) and then run one more round of hdc all around to finish that off.

As a thumb rule, you will work one sc in each sc, one sc in each ch-1 sp and when working along the vertical bar of a dc, you will work 2 sc there.

That said, when there are multiple chain spaces (say a ch-5 sp), then you need to judge how many stitches you need there to keep it flat and even.

Some of this is trial and error and creativity 'fun'.

Needless to say, keep a note of the number of stitches you are adding around one armhole to mirror for the other - and keep a note of the stitches you add along one side of the front neckline too - to mirror along the other side. Have fun.

Pattern detail

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Monday, 16 March 2015

DIAMOND VEST

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