A friend chose this top from a Pinterest link,
and of course, as all new ideas are a challenge for me.. I happily took it
on. I’ve decided to use some of this
lovely 100% cotton yarn I bought in Porto (Portugal) from here
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As usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you. and here's the inspirational cropped top ....
Materials used : Today I’ve used an lovely 100% cotton yarn from Porto (No #4) cotton yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Gauge :
5 dc across x 2 dc high = 1”
Gauge is not important - but it does help to know - as it helps in yarn estimation too
Skill level : Intermediate
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
dc
: Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
sk : Skip st(s) : Stitches
fdc : Foundation double crochet
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So as usual, before we start, a quick
analysis of what we’re going to do here today. This is a lovely pattern starts at the
hemline or base of the top, and then we work our way up to the neck and
shoulders. There is no shaping for the
armhole, as we will just straighten out after the pattern (just under bust) and
go straight on up to the top.
Now here’s the twist in this
pattern.
This is a cropped top, which
means that it is
(a) not a fitting one (well, at least not around the waist /
midriff area and
(b) It is short.
So if
you’re making this project then, remember that your first start row needs to be
looser than your round waist measurement.
However, one can also use this
pattern for a longer and slightly fitted top – as there’s a pattern repeat
given .. so let’s get our creative caps on and have fun.
It looks like this is going to be a
fairly simple project, so let’s get to it.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 + 1.
Start with fdc in multiples of 12 + 1 till you have a fdc chain that is
slightly more than the round waist of the person you’re making this for.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc , 3 dc
in the next dc ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 6
sts ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, dc in the next dc.
Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, [2 dc in the next dc
;
3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till last 3 dc ;
rep [to] in last 3 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, [2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sc in the
next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 7 dc ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : 3 dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc , sc
in the next dc ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, 3 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last
11-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc , sc in the next dc ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, 3 dc
in the last dc . Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch
3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3,
[2 dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next dc ;
2 dc
in the next dc]* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep [to] in last 3 dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc
in the next dc dc in the last 2 dc.
Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc
*ch
1, sc in the next sc ;
ch 1, [2 dc in
the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 5 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the last 4 dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc , 3 dc
in the next sc ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 6
sts ;
ch 5, sk next 5 dc, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
And this completes our one
pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 2 – 7 till your
project reaches just under the armhole.
So once you’ve reached your
armhole level, we will do a row of dc’s
all through, and we need to ensure that you once again have the same number of
dc’s as the 1st foundation row you started with.
Next row : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in each dc all the
way till the end. Turn.
Increase row : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in each dc all the way
till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Rep Increase row four times.
We’ve now got a lovely little
sleeve, so we will stop increases and just allow our project to ‘grow’ a little
till we reach the neck level.
Next row : dc in the 1st dc
and in each dc all the way till the end.
Turn.
Continue without increase till
you reach the neck level you desire.
Measurement for neck
:
So I’ve folded my project in
half at the neckline, and then marked off a centre neck opening. I then placed markers at the two points that
mark the side extremities of the neckline.
Neckline decrease row
: dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all the way till
3 sts before the 1st marker ; dc 3-tog in the last 3 sts. Turn.
This dc 3-tog ensures we get a
neat curve to the edge of our neck, and a quick look at how to do the dc 3-tog
given below.
dc 3-tog : Double
crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp,
yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo,
draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog
made.
Last 2 rows : dc in the 1st st and each dc till end. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Re-attach yarn for the other
side of the top. Repeat the decrease row and last 2 rows to match the other side of your
project. Fasten off and weave in ends.
We have now finished one side of your project.
Rep all instructions for the
other side of the project.
In the last row though, do not
fasten off but leave a long tail to join the back and front of your project.
Fasten the sides of your
project and weave in ends.
Finishing :
For a neat finish, I’d suggest
you run a round of sc all around the neckline and armholes, and if you feel
like it, maybe do a round of picot as well
Fasten off and weave in ends.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those
free patterns … here you go
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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