Monday, 5 June 2017

PURPLE ORCHID TOP


free crochet top pattern

PURPLE ORCHID TOP


I have heard about this yarn that’s available in hanks here in India for a really long time.. and I am thrilled to have *finallllly* got my first large batch of this cotton yarn – I was shaking with excitement at all I could do with it.. and here’s what I am working on first with it.
 I think that the purple orchid flower  looks a lot like this (both in color as well as the pattern  of this top) and hence the name.  Whatchathink?


Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little ladies jackets / boleros at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ladies-tops-to-make/
And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 100 gms of some lovely local unbranded Indian 4-ply knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
For Indians : I have sourced this unbranded cotton yarn from Mr. Vinod of Samrat Mega stores (check store on Facebook or Google).  It is somewhere between our Anchor and Laura knitting cottons in thickness.
For Non-Indians : Among the branded yarns I’ve used, I’d say this yarn is closest (in thickness / softness) to “I-love-this-cotton” cotton yarn from Hobby Lobby.

Size : I have made a M (34") 

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Gauge : Gauge is not important for this pattern, as instructions are given to make it for any size.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ . In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chain less dc start. 

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to jroin with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                       hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet
trc : Triple / Treble crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

I started this pattern off on my own, but somewhere down the line, I found a link to this site, that had the pattern (thought not in English).  I am happy to share this with you.  Go and check this link at http://igmihrru.ru/MODELI/kr/top/031/31.html for this free pattern. 



Below are my notes here are as I make my own project.

When I make my notes, I like to keep them simple such that they can be adapted to be made for any size.  So go and take a quick look at the general pattern, and if that works for you .. great! Else come back here.

The (original) pattern  has been made for a cropped top.  If you decide to do that, you will work the yoke portion and for the lower portion of the top, you will just work it for the length needed.. Yes, that's a pretty obvious conclusion, but I just thought I'd make a note of that as well :)

The pattern is worked in two parts.  There is a plain dc yoke that goes from the armhole all the way to the shoulders, and then there is a lacy lower half. 

I am going to start the pattern at the lower armhole level, work to the top of theshoulders, and then come back to this starting row and work down for the lower part of the top.

The pattern repeat for the yoke part of our top is in multiples of 9 + 1.

Part 1 : Yoke for the top



Start : with fsc in multiples of 9 + 1 for the round chest / bust measure. Turn.

From the very first row, let’s start with our “V”-st, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; *sk next 2 sts, “V’-st in the next st* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 sts ; sk next 2 sts, dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

From the following row on, we will work in the ch-1 sp of the “V’-st only.

Rows 2 - 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

I have now reached the armhole level, so will start a small shaping (decrease) for the armhole.

Row 8 : sl-st past the 1st 3 “V”-sts and into the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the 4th last “V”-st from end ; “V”-st in the 4th last “V”-st and leave the last 3 “V”-sts.  Turn.

If you want a deeper armhole cut, I’d suggest that you sl-st past the 1st “V”-st and work a “V”-st in each “V”-st all the way to the 2nd last “V”-st and sk the last “V”-st.

Rows 9 - 11 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the end.  Turn.

At this point you will need to decide how deep you want your neckline.  Once you’ve got that figured, here’s what you need to do.

Count off to the centre “V”-st and place a marker there.  Then decide how wide you want your neckline
1.       Once you have both the depth and width figured, count off an even number of “V”-sts from the centre stitch (where you’ve just placed a marker) and place two markers to mark the two sides of your neckline
2.     You will now work from one side of your armhole to this side marker and then back to the armhole.
3.     You will work all the way from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder
4.     Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off
5.     Re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side of the neckline to shoulder portion and work all the way from neckline to armhole till you reach the second shoulder.  Fasten off.
You have successfully completed the front yoke of your top.

Work all these instructions for the back yoke of your top.
Remember that you may not want the same depth for the back of your neckline, so you will need to re-work the depth and width of your back neckline.
IF you decide to have a completely high neckline, then you will work from armhole to armhole, side to side all the way to the shoulder.

Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach your two shoulder bits.


Part 2 : Lower portion of the top


For the lower portion of the top, we will go back to the first fsc start row, and turning our work (such that it now faces you – i.e the bulk of work is against you), you will work the lower portion of the top for the lacy pattern.

I will be restarting the row count from 1.  Please do not confuse these instructions for the yoke portion.

For this portion, you can reduce the ch-sp in case you feel that the laciness (or holes?!) are too large.  I am writing the pattern as charted – so you go crazy and create and make a beautiful top, will you?

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; *ch 4, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till the end.  Turn.

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-st , 7 dc in the same ch-sp ;
*sc in the next ch-sp ; ch 5, sc in the nextch-sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-sp* ;
rep *to* till the end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in  the 1st 3 dc ; (dc, ch 3, dc) all in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*ch 1, sc in the next ch-sp ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; rep (to) in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till the end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc 4-tog over the 1st 4 dc ;
*ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ; ch 1, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till the end.  Turn.

Row 5 : sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-sp.  Turn.

Row 6 : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 7 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-sp.  Turn.

And just like that we have completed one pattern repeat.

Rep Rows 3 – 6 for the length of your top , ending with Row 5.

Before you head off to work your pattern, here’s a few thoughts and ideas.

So you can work this pattern all the way to the end, OR you can add a small border along the end (as charted).  IF you decide to work in the border, then you will need to end a few inches less than the final length for your top.

Right then, make your decisions and let’s meet a bit later.

If you decide NOT to work the border in, I’d suggest you work a row of sc, with 3 sc per ch-3 sp all around to finish.

IF you decide to work the border, carry on to the next section.


Part 2 : Border for the top


For the border of the top, there’s a first lacy bit and then there’s this really lovely large shell end.

Border Row 1 : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Border Row 2 : sl-st onto the 1st dc 4-tog  (from the earlier row) , dc on the same dc 4-tog (Turn) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till the last dc 4-tog ; ch 3, dc on the last dc 4-tog (from the earlier row).  Turn.

Border Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 5, sk 1st sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sk next sc, sc on the last dc.  Turn

Border Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the last sc.  Turn

Border Row 5 : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Border Row 6 : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to)5 times ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too