Sweet Nothings Crochet: PURPLE ORCHID TOP

PURPLE ORCHID TOP

I have heard about this yarn that’s available in hanks here in India for a really long time.. and I am thrilled to have *finallllly* got my first large batch of this cotton yarn – I was shaking with excitement at all I could do with it.. and here’s what I am working on first with it.

I think that the purple orchid flower looks a lot like this (both in color as well as the pattern of this top) and hence the name. Whatchathink?

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a beautiful orchid - the inspiration for my top

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little ladies jackets / boleros at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ladies-tops-to-make/

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 100 gms of some lovely local unbranded Indian 4-ply knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : I have sourced this unbranded cotton yarn from Mr. Vinod of Samrat Mega stores (check store on Facebook or Google). It is somewhere between our Anchor , Red rose and Laura knitting cottons in thickness.

For Non-Indians : Among the branded yarns I’ve used, I’d say this yarn is closest (in thickness / softness) to “I-love-this-cotton” cotton yarn from Hobby Lobby.

Size : I have made a M (34")

You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Gauge : Gauge is not specific.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience, tutorials have also been added just before we need to use the stitch

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I started this pattern off on my own, but somewhere down the line, I found a link to this site, that had the pattern (thought not in English).

I am happy to share my notes with you, as I work on my own project.

Check this link at http://igmihrru.ru/MODELI/kr/top/031/31.html for this free pattern.

When I make my notes, I like to keep them simple such that they can be adapted to be made for any size. So go and take a quick look at the general pattern, and if that works for you .. great! Else come back here.

The (original) pattern has been made for a cropped top. If you decide to do that, you will work the yoke portion and for the lower portion of the top, you will just work it for the length needed.. Yes, that's a pretty obvious conclusion, but I just thought I'd make a note of that as well 😀

The pattern is worked in two parts. There is a plain dc yoke that goes from the armhole all the way to the shoulders, and then there is a lacy lower half.

I am going to start the pattern at the lower armhole level, work to the top of the shoulders, and then come back to this starting row and work down for the lower part of the top.

The stitch count for the yoke part of our top is in multiples of 9 + 1.

Part 1 : Yoke for the top

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 9 + 1 for half round chest / bust measure. Turn.

From the very first row, let’s start with our “V”-st, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

*sk next 2 sts, “V’-st in the next st* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 sts ;

sk next 2 sts, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

From the following row on, we will work in the ch-1 sp of the “V’-st only.

So when the instruction says 'in the "V"-st', it means in the ch-1 sp of the "V"-st.

Rows 2 - 7 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

“V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

I have now reached the armhole level, so will start a small shaping (decrease) for the armhole.

Row 8 : sl-st past the 1^st 3 “V”-sts and into the next “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the 4^th last “V”-st from end ;

“V”-st in the 4^th last “V”-st and leave the last 3 “V”-sts. Turn.

If you want a deeper armhole cut, I’d suggest that you sl-st past the 1^st “V”-st and work a “V”-st in each “V”-st all the way to the 2^nd last “V”-st and sk the last “V”-st.

Rows 9 - 11 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the end. Turn.

At this point you will need to decide how deep you want your neckline.

Once you’ve got that figured, here’s what you need to do.

Count off stitches to the centre “V”-st and place a marker there.

Then decide how wide you want your neckline (for front and back)

1. Once you have both the depth and width figured, count off an even number of “V”-sts from the centre stitch (where you’ve just placed a marker) and place two markers to mark the two sides of your neckline

2. You will now work from one side of your armhole to this side marker and then back to the armhole.

3. You will work all the way from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder

4. Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off

5. Re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker for the other side of the neckline to shoulder portion and work all the way from neckline to armhole till you reach the second shoulder. Fasten off.

You have successfully completed the front yoke of your top.

Work all these instructions for the back yoke of your top.

Remember that you may not want the same depth for the back of your neckline, so you will need to re-work the depth and width of your back neckline.

IF you decide to have a completely high neckline, then you will work from armhole to armhole, side to side all the way to the shoulder.

Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach your two shoulder bits.

Part 2 : Lower portion of the top

For the lower portion of the top, we will go back to the first fsc start row, and turning our work (such that it now faces you – i.e the bulk of work is against your body), you will work the lower portion of the top for the lacy pattern.

I will be restarting the row count from 1.

Please do not confuse these instructions for the yoke portion.

For this portion, you can reduce the ch-sp in case you feel that the laciness (or holes?!) are too large. I am writing the pattern as charted – so you go crazy and create and make a beautiful top, will you?

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 4, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-st , 7 dc in the same ch-sp ;

*sc in the next ch-sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp ;

7 dc in the next ch-sp* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

(dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the next dc ;

dc in the next 3 dc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next ch-sp ;

ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ;

rep (to) in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU

Row 4 : dc 4-tog over the 1^st 4 dc ;

*ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ;

ch 1, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 5 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-3 sp , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

*(ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-sp. Turn.

Row 6 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 7 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

7 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-sp. Turn.

And just like that we have completed one pattern repeat.

Rep Rows 3 – 6 for the length of your top , ending with Row 5.

Before you head off to work your pattern, here’s a few thoughts and ideas.

So you can work this pattern all the way to the end, OR you can add a small border along the end (as charted).

IF you decide to work in the border, then you will need to end a few inches less than the final length for your top.

Right then, make your decisions and let’s meet a bit later.

If you decide NOT to work the border in, I’d suggest you work a row of sc, with 3 sc per ch-3 sp all around to finish.

IF you decide to work the border, carry on to the next section.

Part 2 : Border for the top

For the border of the top, there’s a first lacy bit and then there’s this really lovely large shell end.

Border Row 1 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Border Row 2 : sl-st onto the 1^st dc 4-tog (from the earlier row) ,

dc on the same dc 4-tog (Turn) ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last dc 4-tog ;

ch 3, dc on the last dc 4-tog (from the earlier row). Turn.

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Border Row 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 5, sk 1^st sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next sc, sc on the last dc. Turn

Border Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn

Border Row 5 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Turn.

Border Row 6 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Turn.

Fasten off and leave in ends.

You may want to leave a longish tail for sewing sides.

Finishing

Using one of the ideas given below, join the sides and shoulders for your top.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

You may want to work one row of sc or reverse sc / crab stitch around the neckline and armhole openings for a neat finish.

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

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Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html