Sunday, 21 September 2014

SHELLED DELIGHT


free crochet lil girls dress pattern

SHELLED DELIGHT



I am in that happy state of having a lovely stash of yarn and some absolutely super patterns to follow.. but over time, I’ve found that there are many who need more than a set of photos and chart.  As I am making this lovely dress, I thought that, once again, I’ll just share my notes here with you.

This is not my original pattern idea.  I have found a set of charts on the net but these are my original notes ;)

The biggest problem I’m now having is naming my creations !! J

Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn , ~ 80 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
Note : (For Indian yarn users : The yarn I am using is a  little thicker than our 3 ply yarn and a little thinner than our unbranded / Oswal 4 ply yarns (that we get in hanks).  So try and match gauge.)

Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”
Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”

Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced.

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !


Chainelss dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.


How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :




Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                    sc : Single Crochet
dc : Double Crochet                                                           yo : Yarn Over
hk : Hook                                                                                 sk : Skip
sl-st : Slip stitch


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

For this dress, we’re starting top down, (i.e with a lovely round yoke – from the neck-line and going down to the chest) 

PART 1 : THE YOKE
I am making this dress for a  one year old, and am using the chart only as a guideline.  J
In case you are making this for a different size, may I suggest that you (a) either see how large 43 fdc work out for you OR you use the charts given above for neck sizing.
The other choice would be to work in multiples of the skirt stitch count.  The skirt has a stitch count of 16.  So you could work in multiples of 16 + 1.
I realise that 43 is not a multiple of 16 + 1, but this is what worked for me.. and I am writing it according to what I have done, with ideas of what you could do if 43 doesn't work.  Got it?
Finally, if all else fails, you  just start with fdc to go around the neck of the child, then work the simple pattern for the yoke, ensuring that when you reach the level for the skirt part of the pattern, you have the stitch count needed.

Round 1 : Start with 43 fdc .  Turn

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc, ch 2, sk next dc ; *dc in next dc , ch 2, sk next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; *2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.


Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc, ch 2, sk next dc ; *dc in next  dc , ch 2, sk next 2 dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; * 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.


Rounds 6 - 12 : Rep Rounds 4 and 5 four times.

Note : I found that following the repeats was making the back end more curved than I needed (so making the back placket would be a problem), so I have, in the last few rounds, not done the 2 dc’s in the 1st and last ch-2 sps, and this seems to have worked.  I also reduced the ch-2 sps in the last round, and made those ch-1 sps, thus further reducing the ‘round’ circumference of my yoke.
I suggest you too keep checking your work to ensure that it is not getting too large and out of hand – and mainly that the back ends do match up for proper closure. J

Finally, I’m not sure what sized project has been made by designer, so do keep your sizing in mind and rep Rounds 6-12 only as many times as you need (i.e you may only need three instead of four repeats) – what I’ve given here is what I’ve taken from the photos and charts.

On completion of the yoke, I always prefer to make the back placket and the button holes, then join the last row, so it’s convenient for me to work the lower section in rounds.
So let’s get this bit done and we’ll return for the skirt part.



PART 2 : THE SKIRT

I usually attach my two halves of back at the button hole portion, and then start from this back (centre back) point.  But it doesn’t really matter where you start.. so let’s start with the skirt portion of our superb creation.

Our stitch count here is in multiples of 16.  

One more note – the designer has done one set of skirt pattern rounds and then divided for the armhole.  Please remember this needs to get done shortly – mentioning this now, in case I forget .. or you miss reading that instruction later. J

Round 1 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , sc in the next dc ; 
*ch 5, sk next 4 dc , sc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till last 4 dc  ; 
ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in the 1st sc. (i.e the 1st sc you’ve made for this round)
(This way you’re in the middle of the last ch-5 sp and are right where you need to be) J


One more quick count needed.  A quick look at the pattern reveals that we are once again on a pattern rep in fours – so you need your ch-5 sps in multiples of four.  Go around your round just made and ensure you have the required multiples.. else another tweak to get this worked out as well.. and we’ll meet back here again. J

Round 2 : 4 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next  ch-5 sp) ;  rep (to) once; 
*8 dc in the next  ch-5 sp  ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) 2 times* ; 
rep from *to* till 2nd last ch-sp  ; 
rep (to) in next ch-sp ; 4 dc in the last ch-sp. Join with an sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next  dc) ; rep from (to) twice ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ; rep from (to) 7 times* ; 
rep from *to* till last two ch-5 sps  ;  
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1 and join to the 1st dc.


Phew ! Let’s take a breather and see what you’ve done this far – we’ve done part of one repeat – and I’m sure you’ve figured the pattern out by now.  We will do a bit more together  before I let you go and complete your project.. meanwhile remember what I’d mentioned earlier regarding the sleeves – take a quick look and see where you want to divide off for sleeves.  I’m going to run one more round of the ch-5’s and see if that’s where I want to divide off.. but from here on.. I’m just going to give you the reps and you’ve got to remember when you want to divide off.

To divide, I’d suggest that you do it in the round where we do the 8 dc in the ch-5 sp – so if you’re division for armhole comes under the armpit area, you can neatly do 4 dc in each side of it.. and the pattern continuation is neat. J

Right .. movin' on…

Round 4: sc in the 1st st ; (ch 5,  sk next  2 dc and ch-sp , sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
*[ch 5,  sk next  2 dc and ch-sp , sc in the next ch-5 sp]  ;  rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual  ; 
ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in the 1st sc. (i.e the 1st sc you’ve made for this round)
(.. and we’re back right where you need to be, centre of the last ch-sp) 

Round 5 : sc in the 1st st ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; sc in the next sc ; 
rep from (to) till you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual  ; 
ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in that 1st sc.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp (i.e where you’ve just joined) ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next  ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
*8 dc in the next  ch-5 sp , sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) twice ; ch 5* ; 
rep from *to* you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual  ; 
ch 2, dc in the 1st sc.

Round 7 : sc in the 1st st ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; sc in the next sc ; 
rep from (to) once ;
*dc in the next dc ; [ch 1, dc in the next  dc] ; rep [to] 6 times ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep from (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till last two ch-5 sps  ;  sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1 and join to the 1st dc.

And you’re done with one full rep.  
So now you’ve got an idea of what to do.. have fun.. ensure that your shells alternate.. so the next set of shells will be like in Round 1-3 and then the set after will be like this set we’ve made.
I also hope you’ve divided off (or remember that you have to) for the sleeves.

One note : On completion of Round 7, you’re at one end of the 8 dc set, so sl-st (forward) to the centre of the next ch-5, sc and start from there, OR sl-st (backward – i.e turn your work around, and then sl-st which is in effect going backwards, right) to the ch-1 sp on this 8-dc set and then once again, sc in that ch-sp and then ch 5 to start your next round. J

Sleeves :  For the border of the sleeves, you could work another few rows of shells to give the sleeve a cute puffed look. 

Neckline :   For  a neat finish, first run a round of sc all around the neckline.  Or  you can add a row of shells around the neckline too.  Use the picot stitch as needed.  For a "how to" check the top of this blog.

And c’est tout (yes, yes, fancy few words that I know in French.. just means ‘that’s it’ ) J

I’ve had a super time writing and figuring this pattern out.. and it’s turned out real cute.. hope yours has too.


And we’ll meet again for my next blog.. you have remembered to follow me and/or add your email id to my mailing list so that all my future blogs come direct to your  mailbox, haven’t you.. else.. now’s the time.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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