Wednesday, 3 September 2014

EXCITING BUTTERFLY BOLERO

free crochet bolero pattern

EXCITING BUTTERFLY  VEST


While trolling the net, I found a lovely set of photos that show a "how to" for this vest, but sadly no write up that I could share directly.  Here are my notes as I work on my own project.  I am sharing all the original lovely photographs by the designer , cropping and zooming in on her stitch work for our convenience.


I thought this bolero looks like a little butterfly (well in my mind).. hence the name.  

Now after completion of front, I found my yarn choice has made it larger than I’d needed .. started off for a 34", but think this one is in the range of 36" or a bit more.. but then there is no gauge given on the original pattern (or if given, I could not figure that out).. so here’s my gauge and thoughts on how to figure this out.

I’d suggest you do a quick swatch with the yarn you think you want.. and see what you get for the back and reduce/increase ply/hook size to match your requirement. If you’ve got any other ideas on how to figure out a sizing for this particular garment, then I’d love to add that in here too.  J

I would add that I think our Indian Laura knitting cotton, which is about a 4-ply thickness will give you a larger end product,and if you're looking to make this for a slender person, I'd suggest our Indian Anchor knitting cotton. 

I also thought I'd do another different thing here .. and so in the photo above you'll see I've only made one sleeve - as this pattern could work without a sleeve - a cap-like finish is cute too... just in case you're wondering why that sleeve (or lack thereof) on the left side looks odd.. now you know. J

Unlike most of my other write ups, I am unable to give a stitch count that will allow this pattern to be made for any size.  But here are some ideas that could work.

First work the back.  The back is in one piece, and you can map that to the size needed.  As always, may I suggest that you use a template (a well fitting top is ideal, but a cut out in paper would work as well) that you can hold your work against to check as you go along.
Once you have the back done, you need to work the front part, per pattern only till  you get to the same width and length of the back.  This would mean tweaking the pattern a bit to fit the size needed - but then this is what adds to the difficulty level of this wonderful pattern.


Materials Used : 4-ply Baby from Stylecraft ; ~  110 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook.  
For Indians :  This yarn is similar to our Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply yarn and Laura knitting cotton.  I also think that this pattern will work well with Anchor knitting cotton or the superb Alize range of cottons / bamboo yarns using a 3.5 mm crochet hook.  Yarn requirement I'd say about 250 gms for a 34"- 36" bust.
For Non-Indians :  The International yarns I've used in this weight category include James & Brett Baby marble yarn ,   Bella Baby Wonder acrylic yarn ,  Woolcraft baby care , Bambini baby yarn and Marvel Baby soft

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level. 
The difficulty lies not in the stitches (which are basic) but in the calculations to get it to fit.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/


Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start.  

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.
Abbreviations used :
dc : Double crochet                                                                  ch : Chain
rep : Repeat                                                                                 sp : Space
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together                            fsc : Foundation Single Crochet         
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)


PART 1 : BACK 

(Make one)



The back is worked in one piece from bottom up.  
The pattern for the back is  [5 dc ; (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st) ; rep from (to) 2 times].  

So our total repeat count = 11. Looking at the designer’s finished piece, I see she’s worked a dc each end and started with the ch-1 sps pattern, and ended similarly – so I’d suggest a calculation in multiples of 11 + 2 (for the border joining)

Start with multiples of 11 + 2 (for the border joining)

Row 1 :  dc in 1st 2 fsc ; 
*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in next fsc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; dc in next 5 fsc* ; 
rep from *to* 9 times ; 
(ch 1, dc in next fsc) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; dc in last fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 :  dc in 1st 2 dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; dc in next 5 dc* ;
 rep from *to* 9 times ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; dc in last dc. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you have a length for back that fits you or the recipient of your creation.

For the last line, do one sc in each dc and ch-sp till end, ensuring you have the same count as the start line.


PART 2 : FRONT
Make two

We start this pattern from the centre front and work the two fronts first.  The pattern radiates out from the centre out towards the shoulder and armhole.  We then have one piece that we make for the back. 

To start,  you could use a small plastic ring in that first round, and sc all around that ring.  
I didn't have a plastic ring, so what I’ve done is wrap the yarn a few times around two of my fingers a few times, and then did a round of sc around this.. and we will then use a few of these sc for the first bit of the pattern.  So do that bit and we’ll meet back here again shortly J



Just a few thoughts about this front ring start :  Our pattern starts with a ring for the centre front, so  when we are done with both sides, we need to add something that will join them together.  
So ideas : a) if you are using a set of rings, ensure one is smaller than the other, so that you can loop the smaller one into the bigger one to close
b) if you are working a yarn start (as I have), then you will need to attach something at the end of one of the rings.. a small flower motif .. a button with a chain.. something that you can loop one into the other. If you are thinking of a flower motif, check out my motif patterns.  I have a long list of things made and there are quick links on the right hand side of this blog listed label-wise.  Check under crochet motifs pattern.

OK, moving on...
See how the front two pieces look?  Now you can see why I called this winged creation a butterfly !! 

These are the designer's photographs (in magenta), not mine.  I have just taken the trouble to crop it for each row so that we can see what we are working on.


Row 1 :  dc in the 1st sc and next 7 sc.  Turn.  (8 dc)

Row 2 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; *ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ;  
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (13 dc)

Row 3 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ; 
*ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 3 times ; 
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.  (18 dc)

Row 4 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc  ;
*ch 1, dc in next dc ;  ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc  ; 
*rep from *to* 4 times ;
 ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.  (24 dc)

Row 5 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc , dc in the next dc ; ch 1 dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times till end. Turn. (25 dc)

Row 6 :  dc in 1st dc ; *ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times till end. Turn. (25 dc)

Row 7 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 5 times till end. Turn. (31 dc)


Row 8 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (36 dc)



Row 9 :  dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (36 dc)



Row 10 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 2, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (36 dc)



Row 11 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, [dc in next 2 dc , 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc]  ; 
ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, rep from [to] once ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (47 dc)



Row 12 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (47 dc)



Row 13 :  Rep Row 12



Row 14 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;  
rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in last dc. Turn. (53 dc)


Row 15 :  dc in 1st dc , (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ; rep from (to) once * ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (53 dc)


Row 16 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) 2 times till end. Turn. (58 dc)



Row 17 :  2 dc in 1st dc , (ch 1, dc in next dc); 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (59 dc)



Row 18 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; ch 1,  dc in next 3 dc ;
rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) twice ; dc in last dc. Turn. (59 dc)




Row 19 :  dc in 1st dc , 2 dc in next dc  ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) twice ; 2 dc in next dc ; 
dc in next dc ; rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (65 dc)



Row 20 :  dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc)  ; ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in last 3 dc. Turn. (65 dc)



Row 21 :  dc in 1st 3 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) twice ; 
dc in next 4 dc ; rep from (to) once* ; rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (65 dc)



Row 22 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; 
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; 
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in last dc. Turn. (77 dc)



Row 23:  dc in 1st 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next 2 dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ; dc in next 4 dc ; rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (78 dc)



Row 24 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; rep from (to) 2 times* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) 2 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn. (79 dc)


Row 25 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 2, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ; 
[ch 1, dc in next 2 dc , 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc] ; rep from (to) once* ;
 rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (84dc)


Row 26 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (95 dc)



Row 27 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 4 dc ; rep from (to) 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (95 dc)



Row 28 :  dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 3 times ; 
sk next ch-sp , dc in next dc. Turn. (34 dc)



Row 29 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc , [sk ch sp, dc in next dc] ; rep from [to] once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 2 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (33 dc)



Row 30 :  dc in 1st dc ; *ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 2 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, (sk all ch-sps) dc 3-tog over the the last 3 dc. 
Turn. (30 dc)



Row 31 :  Here again, like last line, you need to sk over the ch-sp for dc 2-tog :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;  dc in next 4 dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; ch 1, dc in next 5 dc* ; 
rep from *to* once ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn. (26 dc)


Row 32 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; dc in next dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; ch 1, dc in next 5 dc* ; 
rep from *to* once ; 
rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc 3-tog over the the last 3 dc.  Turn. (23 dc)


Row 33 :  dc 2-tog in 1st 2 dc ;  sk ch-sp, dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* once ; 
[sk ch-sp] dc 2-tog in last 2 dc. Turn. (21 dc)



Row 34 : sk over the ch-sp for dc 3-tog :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; rep from (to) 3 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc.  Turn. (16 dc)


Row 35 :  sk over the ch-sp : dc 2-tog over the 1st  2 dc ;  dc in next 4 dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; 
dc in next 4 dc ; ch 1 , sk over the ch-sp : dc 2-tog over the last  2 dc. Turn. (13 dc)



Row 36 :  dc 3-tog over the 1st  3 dc ;  dc in next 3 dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; 
dc in next dc ; dc 3-tog over the last  3 dc. Turn. (9 dc)



Row 37 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st  2 dc ; 
 (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) once ; 
sk ch-sp, dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; dc 3-tog over the last  3 dc. Turn. (6 dc)

Row 38 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st  2 dc ;  sk ch sp, dc in next 3 dc ; 
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (5 dc)

Row 39 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st  2 dc ; dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ; 
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 40 :  dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.

Congratulations ! We’ve completed one half of the front of your cute butterfly vest.  Now you’ve got to make the mirror image on the other side of the ring.. and to give you a bird’s eye view of what we’re trying to get done..  ta da  J



Right so as you can see, you’ve got to get to the other side of the ring you’ve made and mirror Rows 1 – 40.  

Pay attention though that this is a mirror image so alter accordingly.  
Note :  If you are not fussy about  the stitches in each side being worked the same way (i.e first row on the right side shows the right side of work, but left side showing wrong side of work), then it does not matter if you work the same pattern without checking for mirror image.  
Mirror imaging means that you would have to work the pattern the other way around such that the stitches will map one another exactly on both sides of work.

Just throwin' ideas around… do tell me what you’ve done J

We’ll meet back here after you’ve done the other front half


PART 3 : JOINING
Once you have your two fronts and one back, place them together and join the sides and shoulders.  
Check the top of this blog for easy "How to" links to join your work neatly.

You now have a neat armhole opening, where you can work in the sleeve. 
Fasten off and weave in all ends.


PART 4 : SLEEVE 

The sleeve has the same pattern repeat, so 11 + 2 for border (1 dc each end, which helps joining).

Attached below are a set of photos of the sleeve made by designer.



You’ll see from the photos below, that the designer has smartly joined the first round and then worked in circles.. so after you make that first fsc round, suggest you slip that ring shaped sleeve on and see if it fits… (saves you the join up later). J





Row 1 dc in 1st 5 fsc ; 
*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in next fsc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in next 3 fsc* ; 
rep from *to* 9 times ; 
(ch 1, dc in next fsc) ; rep from (to) till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

From now on, we will work in rounds.  In the following round, we will work a dc 2-tog to decrease and shape our sleeves.

Round 2 dc 2-tog over 1st  2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in next 3 dc* ;
 rep from *to* till the last 5 dc ; 
dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From now on, we will once again work in rows, turning at the end of each row.
In the following row, we will work a dc 3-tog.

Row 3 dc 3-tog over 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; dc in next 3 dc* ;
 rep from *to* till the last 3 dc ; 
dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.

Row 4 dc in 1st dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in next 3 dc* ;
 rep from *to* till end ; 
dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 5 sl-st past the 1st dc and 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep once ;
* ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 5 dc and ch-sps ; 
dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once. Turn.

Row 6 sl-st past the 1st dc (of the 5-dc set) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 4 dc (of the last 5-dc set). Turn.

Row 7 dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 4 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc, dc 2-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.

Row 8 dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 4 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc, dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.

Row 9 dc in the 1st dc ; sk next ch-sp, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep (to) once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 5 dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 10 dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc, skipping the ch-sp in between ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep (to) once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 3 dc ; rep (to) once ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 11 dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc, skipping the ch-sp in between ; 
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep (to) once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till last 3 dc ; rep (to) once ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 12 dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times* ;
 rep from *to* till end ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 13 dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in next 4 dc* ;
 rep from *to* till last 5 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach.  

To Join  :  Fold the sleeve in half and mark the centre top.
Place the sleeve  in the armhole opening, ensuring that you  place the marker along the shoulder line and the sides along the sides of the sleeve.  Pin the whole sleeve up first and then attach 
neatly.  Remember to check the links on top to join if needed.  

Once you have the bolero complete, you can work on the border in one complete continuous motion.



PART 4: BORDER 
For the border,  I suggest you first run a round of sc all around .  
Remember that when you work along the vertical bars of a dc, work in 2 sc and work in 1 sc per ch-sp.   These are general thumb-rules, but if you find that your edge is hanging  too loose, reduce the number of stitches.  Please keep a note of what you are doing along one side, so that you can replicate this for the other side of your own project.

Our border pattern is : (ch 3 in the 1st  st, 2 dc into the base of the same 1st st ; 
sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc) ; 
*ch 3 in next sc, 2 dc into same st base ; sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.
This is a lovely slanted pattern.




Right then.. how do we work this border all around? Here’s what I suggest.  
You start at one corner of the neck , go around the neck (back) , down the front one side, down the back (base of bolero) and up the front the other side to join back again where you started .. all in one continuous movement.  

Replicate the border at the base of the sleeves too for a neat finish.  and TA DA .. just like that you have a beautiful project ready to show off.



Hope you too have had fun making this with me.. I’ve had loads of fun, as usual. 

So till we meet in my next blog .. have a great day J


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