While trolling the net, I found a lovely set of photos that show a
"how to" for this vest, but sadly no write up that I could share
directly. Here are my notes as I work on my own project. I am
sharing all the original lovely photographs by the designer , cropping and
zooming in on her stitch work for our convenience.
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I thought this bolero looks like a little butterfly (well in my
mind).. hence the name.
Now after completion of front, I found my yarn choice has made it
larger than I’d needed .. started off for a 34", but think this one is in
the range of 36" or a bit more.. but then there is no gauge given on the
original pattern (or if given, I could not figure that out).. so here’s my
gauge and thoughts on how to figure this out.
I’d suggest you do a quick swatch with the yarn you think you
want.. and see what you get for the back and reduce/increase ply/hook size to
match your requirement. If you’ve got any other ideas on how to figure out a
sizing for this particular garment, then I’d love to add that in here too.
I would add that I think our Indian Laura knitting cotton, which
is about a 4-ply thickness will give you a larger end product,and if you're
looking to make this for a slender person, I'd suggest our Indian Anchor
knitting cotton.
I also thought I'd do another different thing here .. and so in
the photo above you'll see I've only made one sleeve - as this pattern could
work without a sleeve - a cap-like finish is cute too... just in case you're
wondering why that sleeve (or lack thereof) on the left side looks odd.. now
you know.
Unlike most of my other
write ups, I am unable to give a stitch count that will allow this pattern to
be made for any size. But here are some ideas that could work.
First work the back.
The back is in one piece, and you can
map that to the size needed.
As always, may I suggest that you use a
template (a well fitting top is ideal, but a cut out in paper would work as
well) that you can hold your work against to check as you go along.
Once you have the back done, you need to work the front part, per pattern only till you get to the same width and length of the back. This would mean tweaking the pattern a bit to fit the size needed - but then this is what adds to the difficulty level of this wonderful pattern.
Once you have the back done, you need to work the front part, per pattern only till you get to the same width and length of the back. This would mean tweaking the pattern a bit to fit the size needed - but then this is what adds to the difficulty level of this wonderful pattern.
Materials Used : 4-ply Baby from Stylecraft ; ~ 110 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook ;
This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
The difficulty lies not in the basic stitches but in the calculations to get it to fit.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
rep : Repeat sp : Space
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For our convenience, there are tutorials just before the stitch is used as well.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
PART 1 : BACK (Make one)
The back is worked in one piece from bottom up.
The pattern for the back is
[5 dc ; (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st) ;
rep from (to) 2 times].
So our stitch count is in multiples of 11 + 2.
Looking at the designer’s finished piece, I see she’s worked a dc each end and started with the ch-1 sps pattern, and ended similarly – so I’d suggest a calculation in multiples of 11 + 2 (for the border joining)
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start with fsc in multiples of 11 + 2 (for the border joining)
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 1 : dc in 1st 2 fsc ;
*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 5 fsc* ;
rep from *to* 9 times ;
(ch 1, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
dc in last fsc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in 1st 2 dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 5 dc* ;
rep from *to* 9 times ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till you have a length for back that fits you or the recipient of your creation.
For the last line, do one sc in each dc and ch-sp till end, ensuring you have the same count as the start line.
PART 2 : FRONT : Make two
We start this pattern from the centre front and work the two fronts first.
The pattern radiates out from the centre out towards the shoulder and armhole.
We then have one piece that we make for the back.
For your convenience, I have added loads of photos (designer's work) to show you what your project should look like along different rows.
To start, you could use a small plastic ring in that first round, and sc all around that ring.
So do that bit and we’ll meet back here again shortly
Just a few thoughts about this front ring start :
Our pattern starts with a ring for the centre front, so when we are done with both sides, we need to add something that will join them together.
So ideas :
a) if you are using a set of rings, ensure one is smaller than the other, so that you can loop the smaller one into the bigger one to close
b) if you are working a yarn start (as I have), then you will need to attach something at the end of one of the rings.. a small flower motif .. a button with a chain.. something that you can loop one into the other.
If you are thinking of a flower motif, check out my motif patterns. I have a long list of things made and there are quick links on the right hand side of this blog listed label-wise. Check under crochet motifs pattern.
OK, moving on...
See how the front two pieces look?
Now you can see why I called this winged creation a butterfly !!
These are the designer's photographs (in magenta), not mine.
I have just
taken the trouble to crop it for each row so that we can see what we are
working on.
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Start with 8 sc in a magic circle or around a pastic ring as suggested above
Row 1 : dc in the 1st sc and next 7 sc.
Turn. (8 dc)
Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in next dc ;
*ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (13 dc)
Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ;
*ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 3 times ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (18 dc)
Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ;
*rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (24 dc)
Row 5 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 1 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times till end.
Turn. (25 dc)
Row 6 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times till end. Turn. (25 dc)
Row 7 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 5 times till end.
Turn. (31 dc)
Turn. (31 dc)
Row 8 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (36 dc)
Turn. (36 dc)
Row 9 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once* ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (36 dc
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (36 dc
Row 10 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, dc in next dc ;
ch 2, dc in next dc* ;
ch 1, dc in next dc ;
ch 2, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (36 dc)
Turn. (36 dc)
Row 11 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, [dc in next 2 dc , 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc]
;
ch 1, dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, rep from [to] once ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (47 dc)
Turn. (47 dc)
Row 12 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2
times* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (47 dc)
Turn. (47 dc)
Row 13 : Rep Row 12
Row 14 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) once*
;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in last dc.
Turn. (53 dc)
Turn. (53 dc)
Row 15 :
dc in 1st dc ,
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ;
rep from (to) once * ;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (53 dc)
Turn. (53 dc)
Row 16 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in next
dc, 2 dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) 2 times till end.
Turn. (58 dc)
Turn. (58 dc)
Row 17 :
2 dc in 1st dc ,
(ch 1, dc in next dc);
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next 3
dc ;
rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (59 dc)
Turn. (59 dc)
Row 18 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ;
rep from (to) once*
;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) twice ;
dc in last dc.
Turn. (59 dc)
Turn. (59 dc)
Row 19 :
dc in 1st dc , 2 dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) twice ;
2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next dc ;
rep from
(to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch
1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (65 dc)
Turn. (65 dc)
Row 20 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc ;
rep from (to) once*
;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in last 3 dc.
Turn. (65 dc)
Turn. (65 dc)
Row 21 :
dc in 1st 3 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) twice ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
rep
from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (65 dc)
Turn. (65 dc)
Row 22 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in next
4 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in 1st dc ;
2 dc in next dc; dc in last dc. Turn. (77 dc)
2 dc in next dc; dc in last dc. Turn. (77 dc)
Row 23 :
dc in 1st 2 dc,
2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in
next 2 dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (78 dc)
Row 24 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next 4
dc ;
rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ;
2 dc in next dc ; dc in last 2 dc. Turn. (79 dc)
2 dc in next dc ; dc in last 2 dc. Turn. (79 dc)
Row 25 :
dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc ;
ch 2, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
[ch 1, dc in next 2 dc ,
2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc] ;
rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4
times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (84 dc)
Row 26 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, dc in next dc)
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc
;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (95 dc)
Row 27 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
rep
from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (95 dc)
Row 28 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 3 times
;
sk next ch-sp , dc in
next dc. Turn. (34 dc)
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 29 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ,
[sk ch sp, dc in next dc] ;
[sk ch sp, dc in next dc] ;
rep
from [to] once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 2 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn. (33 dc)
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Row 30 :
dc in 1st dc ; *ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* 2 times
;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, sk all ch-sps, dc 3-tog over the the last 3 dc.
Turn. (30 dc)
Row 31 :
Here again, like last line, you need to sk over the ch-sp for dc 2-tog :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in next 4 dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to)
2 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc* ;
rep from *to* once ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2
times ;
ch 1, dc in next 3 dc ;
dc 3-tog over
the last 3 dc. Turn. (26 dc)
Row 32 : dc
3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; dc in next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, dc in next
5 dc* ;
rep from *to* once ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc 3-tog over the the last 3
dc. Turn. (23 dc)
Row 33 :
dc 2-tog in 1st 2 dc ; sk ch-sp, dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
*ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* once
;
sk ch-sp, dc 2-tog in
last 2 dc. Turn. (21 dc)
Row 34 : sk
over the ch-sp for dc 3-tog :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 3
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn. (16 dc)
Row 35 :
sk over the ch-sp : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 1 , sk over the ch-sp ;
dc 2-tog over the
last 2 dc. Turn. (13 dc)
Row 36 :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
dc in next 3 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next dc ; dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn. (9 dc)
Row 37 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
sk ch-sp, dc in next dc ;
ch 1, dc in next dc ; dc 3-tog over the
last 3 dc. Turn. (6 dc)
Row 38 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
sk ch sp, dc in next 3 dc ;
sk ch sp, dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn. (5 dc)
Row 39 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ;
dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ;
ch 1, dc in last dc.
Turn.
Row 40 :
dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
ch 1, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Congratulations ! We’ve
completed one half of the front of your cute butterfly vest.
Now you’ve
got to make the mirror image on the other side of the ring.. and to give you a
bird’s eye view of what we’re trying to get done.. ta da J
Right so as you can see,
you’ve got to get to the other side of the ring you’ve made and mirror Rows 1 –
40.
PART 3 : JOINING
Pay attention though that this is a mirror image so
alter accordingly.
Note :
If you are not fussy about the stitches in each side being worked the
same way (i.e first row on the right side shows the right side of work, but
left side showing wrong side of work), then it does not matter if you work the
same pattern without checking for mirror image.
Mirror imaging means
that you would have to work the pattern the other way around such
that the stitches will map one another exactly on both sides of work.
Just throwin' ideas
around… do tell me what you’ve done
We’ll meet back here
after you’ve done the other front half
Once you have your two
fronts and one back, place them together and join the sides and shoulders.
Use one of these ideas to join
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
You now have a neat
armhole opening, where you can work in the sleeve.
Fasten off and weave in
all ends
PART 4 : SLEEVE
The sleeve has the same
pattern repeat, so 11 + 2 for border (1 dc each end, which helps joining).
Attached below are a set
of photos of the sleeve made by designer.
You’ll see from the photos below, that the designer has smartly
joined the first round and then worked in circles.. so after you make that
first fsc round, suggest you slip that ring shaped sleeve on and see if it
fits… (saves you the join up later).
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Row 1: dc in 1st 5 fsc ;
*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in next
3 fsc* ;
rep from *to* 9 times ;
(ch 1, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from *to* 9 times ;
(ch 1, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from (to) till end ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
From
now on, we will work in rounds.
In the following round, we will work a dc
2-tog to decrease and shape our sleeves.
Round 2 : dc 2-tog over 1st 2 dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* till the last 5 dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
rep from *to* till the last 5 dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
now on, we will once again work in rows, turning at the end of each row.
In
the following row, we will work a dc 3-tog.
Row 3 : dc 3-tog over 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch
1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* till the last 3 dc ;
dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.
rep from *to* till the last 3 dc ;
dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
*(ch
1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : sl-st past the 1st dc and 1st ch-1
sp ;
dc in next dc ;
(ch
1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*
ch 1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc and ch-sps ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc and ch-sps ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once. Turn.
Row 6 : sl-st past the 1st dc [of the 5-dc set] ;
*ch
1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 4 dc [of the last 5-dc set]. Turn.
rep from *to* till last 4 dc [of the last 5-dc set]. Turn.
Row 7 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch
1, dc in next 3 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 4 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 4 dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc, dc 2-tog over the
last 3 dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
*ch
1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 4 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 4 dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc, dc 3-tog over the
last 3 dc. Turn.
Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ;
sk next ch-sp, dc in the next
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch
1, dc in next 5 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row 10 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc, skipping the ch-sp in
between ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch
1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep (to) once ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2
dc. Turn.
Row 11 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc, skipping the ch-sp in
between ;
(ch
1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch
1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep (to) once ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2
dc. Turn.
Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch
1, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 13 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
*(ch
1, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in next 4 dc* ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc ;
rep from *to* till last 5 dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the
last 2 dc. Turn.
Fasten
off and leave a long tail to attach.
To Join : Fold the sleeve in half and mark the centre top.
Place
the sleeve in the armhole opening, ensuring that you place the
marker along the shoulder line and the sides along the sides of the sleeve.
Pin the whole sleeve up first and then attach
neatly.
Remember to check the links on top to join if needed.
Once you have the bolero complete, you can work on the border in one complete continuous motion.
PART 4 : BORDER
For the border, I
suggest you first run a round of sc all around .
Remember that when you work along the vertical bars of a dc, work
in 2 sc and work in 1 sc per ch-sp. These are general thumb-rules, but
if you find that your edge is hanging too loose, reduce the number of
stitches. Please keep a note of what you are doing along one side, so
that you can replicate this for the other side of your own project.
Our border pattern is : (ch 3 in the 1st st, 2 dc into the
base of the same 1st st ;
sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc) ;
*ch 3 in next sc, 2 dc into same st base ; sk next 2 sc, sc in
next sc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
This is a lovely slanted pattern.
Right then.. how do we work this border all around? Here’s what I
suggest.
You start at one corner
of the neck , go around the neck (back) , down the front one side, down the
back (base of bolero) and up the front the other side to join back again where
you started .. all in one continuous movement.
Replicate the border at the base of the sleeves too for a neat finish. and TA DA .. just like that you have a beautiful project ready to show off.
Hope you too have had fun making this with me.. I’ve had loads of fun, as
usual.
So till we meet in my
next blog .. have a great day
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other creations.
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
Thank you for sharing this detailed crochet pattern..
ReplyDeleteOther patterns are hard to understand
But yours is detailed and have images on them so thank you!
Thanks so much for taking the time to appreciate :) Do share your finished project - I'd love to showcase it on my Facebook page.
DeleteI have been admiring that bolero.
ReplyDeleteThankyou for detailed instructions