Wednesday, 17 May 2017

ZIG ZAG LADIES CROP TOP


free crochet top pattern

free crochet top pattern

ZIG ZAG LADIES CROP TOP


Hi and welcome back to my blog.  If you have been following me, you’ll know that I do not like to repeat my patterns and love to explore new ideas, charts and designs with each new creation.  I not only love challenges, but love patterns that have unusual constructions.  Check out my pins at  https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/my-vests-and-tops-made-by-me/ for exclusive and interesting patterns.

I found this chart and photo on the internet & as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


This pattern is worked in rows diagonally from one side, and is a little confusing.  

I have, therefore, separated the pattern row wise into sections to make it easier to follow.  

That said, this does increase the number of pages this pattern will flood over into.  
So (to help our environment), may I request that you save this onto your pc and work without printing it out.

If, however, you must print, may I request that you still save it to your computer, go through the pattern and see if you need the sections as I’ve put them, cut paste it onto a word document and print back to back ; and also print only in black & white. For convenience, when working with a printed sheet, you can highlight the section you are working on.
I have used colors here so that it will jump out at you (and make it easier) when working on a mobile device or pc / tablet.  Thank you for saving our environment J

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian thin polyester silk (purse / kamal kadai) lace weight yarn, with a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Optional : Markers.  

For Non-Indians : This yarn is like embroidery floss - and / or like Aunt Lydia 10 (100% viscose from bamboo) in thickness.


I’ve made a Size 34” (M) cropped top and used about 150 gms of yarn for this.

Skill level :  Advanced skill level.
Chevrons are intermediate skill level patterns. This top is worked in chevrons and diagonally, which increases skill requirement.  There is also a bit of calculation and pattern detail that calls for an advanced skill need.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                   ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                   rep : Repeat


Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.



Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.   We will work two flat pieces that make the front and back of our top.
Our pattern starts at the bottom right hand side of one side and we will work all the way to the top , adding one row at a time, and working diagonally across the top.


 See how we’re going to start at the right hand side corner (yellow triangle) and work our way upwards.

As you work, how do you count your rows? Starting at the right hand side corner, you will count along the diagonal. 

So no matter what size you are working for, you will start with the same number of stitches, but once you have the width / length figured, you will work according to the size you need. Got it?

Here are a set of photos to show you how I've worked the first few rows.







Start Row 1 : with 43 ch. Turn and we will work along this chain -
ch 6, sk the 1st 6 ch, dc in the next ch ; 2 dc in the next ch ;
ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in the next 14 ch ; sk next 5 ch, dc in the next 14 ch ;
ch 2, sk next 2 ch, 2 dc in the next ch ; dc in the next ch ;
sk next ch, dc in the last ch ;
ch 5 and dc in the same last ch. Turn.

Note : This last ch-5 sp that you have created will form the starting point for the next row.  This ch-5 sp will become a square of the pattern.
The other ch-5 sp that you have between the two sets of 14 dc forms the right hand side corner of your work.
So your odd numbered rows will start from the side of your top and the even numbered rows will start from the bottom of your top.
Make sense?  Work a few rows, and then come back and re-read this to get a better visual image of what we’re doing here. Cheers.

From now on, we will work on these sts diagonally.  We will be starting each row with a dc, so if you are not comfortable with the chainless standing dc start (check under stitches used), please start with the ch 2 or ch 3 for the 1st dc.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ; sk next 4 dc, dc in the next dc [this is right side corner] ;
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk nexst dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 4 dc in the same last ch-5 sp. Turn.

Row 3 : (Side edge) : ch 5, sk 1st 3 dc, 3 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
sk next 2 dc & two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc [this is right side corner] ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : (Bottom edge) : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; sk next 2 dc and two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc [this is right side corner] ;
rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the last ch-sp. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-sp ;
dc in the next 12 dc ;
sk next 4 dc , [this is right side corner] ;
dc in the next 12 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the last ch-2 sp; dc in the last 3 dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 6 times ; sk next 4 dc, dc in the next dc
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ; sk next 2 dc & two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc
rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep (to) 3 times ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st 11 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 12 dc ;
sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 12 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the last 11 dc. Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp} ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
sk next 4 dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep {to} once ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.

We have completed one pattern repeat.
Stop and let’s admire what we’re creating here today.

Right then, let’s start with the next section.  You will be at the bottom of your top, with the corner on your right hand side.
We will start our next section with adding 27 chain along one side.

Row 11 : ch 27 (which includes 1st dc as well as 1st ch-sp) ;
dc in the 7th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in the next 2 ch ;
[ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next ch] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
sk next 2 ch & 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(and with this we have joined to Row 10) ;
{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
<ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp> ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 5 times ;
sk next 2 dc and two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 5 times ;
rep <to> once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 6 times ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.

We are now on the right hand side of the top, and we will need to repeat an extension here. So once again we need 25 ch which include the 1st dc and the 1st ch-2 sp.

Row 12 : ch 25 ; dc in the 7th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ; ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in the next 2 ch ;
[ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next ch] ;
rep [to] 4 times.
sk next 2 ch, 1 dc and 1 ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc (and with this we have made a new corner, and also joined to the chevron we’ve made till Row 10)
Fasten off.

Here’s where the chart is a little confusing.  I have opted to fasten off at this point, such that I have an identical extension on both sides – bottom and side of my work.  I feel that this way writing and remembering the instructions will be simpler.
That said, the chart is right here, so if you can think of another way to make it, do share.

We now have an odd creation with two tails on either end, but all of it on the same row.

I have now re-attached my yarn at the top of Row 2 along the side of the top, so keeping the corner to the right hand side, I’ve attached on the top.

When we re-attach yarn, we will be working first along the vertical bar of the 1st dc (or the ch-2 that make the 1st dc), and then turning and working around.  
That 1st st / sp is a ch-5 sp, so that’s what I’m going to refer to it as.

Row 13 : 4 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
[(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times] ;
sk next two ch-1 sps and dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ;
<2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp> ;
[dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; sk next 2 dc & two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep <to> once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the last ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 4 dc in the same ch-5 sp. Turn.

See how we have added two sides to our top and continued with the pattern.  Genius, isn’t it?

Row 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*(ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 12 dc ; sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 12 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; [ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp] ;
rep *to* 3 times till the last ch-5 sp ; sk last 3 dc, 3 dc in the last ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 15 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp
[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ; (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*rep [to] once ; rep (to) 6 times ; sk next 4 dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 16 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ;
sk next 2 dc & 2 ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in that last dc.  Turn

Row 17 : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*dc in the next 2 dc ; (dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; sk next 2 dc & 2 ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last  dc.  Turn

Row 18 : dc in the 1st 6 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*dc in the next 12 dc ;
sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 12 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the each dc till the end.  Turn

Row 19 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ;
sk next 4 dc , dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last 8 dc ; rep (to) 4 times till end.  Turn

Row 20 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ;
sk next 2 dc & 2 ch-1 sps , dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the end ; dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn

Row 21 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
sk next 2 dc & 2 ch-1 sps , dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last [to] rep ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) 5 times till end.  Turn

Row 22 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next 12 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, 3 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ; dc in the next 12 dc ;
sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 12 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc,dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 23 : ch 27 ; dc in the 7th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ; ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in the next 2 ch ;
[ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next ch] ;
rep [to] 4 times.
sk next 2 ch, 1 dc and 1 ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc (and with this we have made a new corner with the body of our top)

Fasten off.



free crochet top pattern


We have completed one pattern repeat after the extension.
Our pattern repeat rows will be are Rows 12 – 23.

Before you head off, here’s a precis of the pattern (which I am sure you’ve figured too)
Two rows are worked with ch-1 sps and then the corner 3-dc sets around the ch-5 sp ; and the next two rows are worked with dc in all the dc and again the corner 3-dc sets around the ch-5 sp. These four rows form one chevron pattern.

Please read through all these notes before you carry on with your pattern.

At this point, here is what I will suggest :
1)      Keep a well fitted top of the person you are intending to make this for, or ensure that you have the chest /waist and hip size of the person you are making this for
2)    This pattern is worked like a rectangle all the way from one right hand side corner all the way to the shoulder
3)    As you start growing this pattern row by row, you may reach the side width required before you reach the length needed or vice-versa.
4)    At this time, depending on which portion you are trying to work on, you will stop along (when you have the width needed) and only work your pattern upwards along the length, to reach the shoulders ; OR you will stop along the side (when you have the length / height needed), and continue to work along the width only.
5)    So you will work till you reach the ch-5 sp (that’s a corner) and work 4 dc in that corner. Turn and then you will then continue working the pattern from this pattern on, and stop pattern at this point.  You amy place a marker here so that you remember to turn here at all following rows, and prevnt further extensions.  For eg, at the end of the 2nd repeat, I’ve obtained the length / height needed for my crop top, so I have stopped at the ch-5 sp corner, turned and have continued with pattern to increase width.
6)    The pattern will be worked in the same manner even though there are no further extensions along one side (in my case, no further extension or work along the height / length of top) – so I will work along the row diagonally to increase the width, and then stop at the marker I’ve placed on the right hand side.
7)    Similarly you will stop pattern when you are at a point where you have both the length and width for the top.
8)    As mentioned before, this pattern has no neckline or armhole decrease, and we’re working a rectangle. Once you have the rectangle for the length and width done, fasten off and weave in ends.
9)    Repeat all instructions to create the other half of your top as well. 
 

Finishing ideas : Once you have completed both sides of your project, you will place both parts down, and ensure that you have the chevron pattern facing the direction(s) you want.  Attach the shoulders and sides, leaving a space for the armholes and neck.

I have worked a round of sc , followed by a round of hdc all around the armhole edge, neckline and around the base of the top.’

I actually feel that that as we’ve worked a rectangle (without armhole shaping) the way it falls over and across the  shoulders onto the top of the arm is pretty darn cute – and perfect for the cropped top I’m working on.  That said, just for kicks, I thought I’d see how a tiny little sleeve (extension of sorts) would look and I think it adds a little more to the already lovely top.  So if you feel like it, here’s what I’ve done

Sleeve ideas : Once you have joined the shoulders and sides of the top, you  have a neat armhole ready-made.
I have first run a round of sc all around, and the stitch count for our simple pattern here is in multiples of 10
As our work will have straight stitches as well as stitches along an angle or diagonal, I suggest you work 1 sc in each ch-1 sp ; 1 sc in each sc / dc and 2 sc in each vertical bar of a dc. 



Round 1 : Work a round of sc all around the armhole in multiples of 10
Round 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next 8 sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1st 2 dc, dc in the next 6 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 6 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Rep Round 3 till you have a sleeve length you are happy with.  May I suggest here that you do not keep it too long, as it will then detract from the beauty of the diagonal chevrons across the top, which is way harder work than these simple sleeves – but I guess you’ll see that for yourself too.

Last Round : Work a round of hdc all around ; with a hdc in each dc and 2 hdc in each ch-2 sp all around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! 
So let's get a few more finished photos in, shall we?

free crochet top pattern

free crochet top pattern



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I have a quite a few unusual and extraordinary tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go.  Do take a look at my Pinterest link, as I have many yokes made as well, and each of them can be made into tops as well... jus sayin ;)