This is a really brilliant crochet top. Not only is the yarn fantastic, but the construction of this top shows the pattern and the yarn to full beauty, don't you agree?
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One look at this confusingly beautiful top and I knew it had to be one I had to try.. and as I have this absolutely stunning Ice Baby Batik yarn handy.. how can I resist this creation.
I am so happy you’ve joined me here to work on this together – so
get set for some fun.
Materials used : ICE Baby Batik ~ 250 gms , with a 4 mm
About this lovely yarn : ICE
Batik is a really nice yarn – soft and smooth, sport 5-ply yarn (12 wpi) , and
a US 4 / 3.5mm crochet hook has been recommended.
For Indians :
To compare with our Indian acrylic yarns , this is a little thicker than our
Indian Vardhaman baby soft - probably a little like our Vardhaman Millenium.
For Indian cotton yarns,
you could probably equate it with our Indian Laura cotton.
For this pattern though, a lighter yarn would also work perfectly – so our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Red heart yarns would probably show the stitch detail perfectly
In general I'd add that I think you could use any yarn with a suitable hook.
I'd say though, specially due to this construction, I'd stay with the thinner yarns (rather than the thicker ones, I mean)
For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
General yarn info : The yarn I've used today is not specific for this pattern.
Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : Chest
: 40” : Length : 27”
Gauge : 4
dc (across) x 2 dc row (high) = 1”
Gauge is not
important. This is just in case you are working same size and using same
yarn.
Skill level : Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
dc 5-tog : Double crochet 5-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw
through 2 lps] 5 times (6 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 5-tog made.
Great video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWq5DML6EtU
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double
crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip
stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 5-tog : Double
Crochet 5-together
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience, I've also added tutorials just before we're using the stitch.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Now if you have a self
striped yarn, this will make our stripes that much simpler – else the designer
has cleverly used one colour per row (or a set of rows) in a pretty arbitrary
way. So let’s have fun with this brilliant creation.
Though I’ve worked this
in multi coloured / variegated yarn, and the designer has either (also) used self striping
yarn, or changed yarns every other row, I feel that this construction is so
beautiful that the unusual-ness will show through even with a single
colour yarn.
This is not my
original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating
freebies over the net.
I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am
sharing them with you.
As I was nearly
finishing this pattern, I happened to show the w.i.p to a friend, and she said
she saw a similar pattern on Ravelry as well here
Please note that this is an Advanced Skill level creation.
Now what makes it advanced is not the stitches. We're using pretty basic stitches today. The difficulty lies in creating a triangular pattern that we then make into a rectangle. Now that too is not difficult as it's pretty logical - and I've tried to explain the logic of what we're doing as we go through the pattern.
The difficulty lies in giving full exact instructions for each row - mainly because we're all starting with different start numbers.
The idea of giving everyone a chance to try this pattern, using whatever count works for each one of us, has created a bit of a hurdle in this pattern.
But this is just a bit of a hurdle - and I'm sure we'll work it out.
Before we start on this unusual creation, let’s quickly look at what we’re going to do. We start at the waist line and work our way to the
shoulders.
The pattern is the same for front and back.. so all we’ve got
to do is figure out one side, and we’re halfway there !
Our pattern is
worked side to side, and one triangle at a time.
We then work back, in reverse, over that triangle to make that into a rectangle.
You can actually make two rectangles (one each for front and back) and then just join the shoulders and sides, leaving an armhole and neck opening - and the neck will be a little cowled and look lovely.
Come along and we’ll see
how this beauty slowly unfolds .. not an easy one, but then as that famous
saying goes.. No pain.. No gain!
Our stitch count is in multiples of 8 + 1.
FRONT & BACK : Make two
The pattern is the same for the front and back - so you will make two identical halves.
You will start with the half round bust or round waist, depending on which part of your body is the larger. If you plan on making this a long top, till your hips, then please check round hip measurement too and decide which to use.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : Start with fsc in multiples of 8 + 1 for half your waist measurement. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 1 : dc
in each dc till end. Turn
In the following row, we will work a dc 5-tog all in one st.
Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for
working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
Row 2 : sc
in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc 5-tog in the next dc
;
(ch 2, dc 5-tog in the
next dc );
rep (to) once
;
sk next 2 dc , sc in
next dc ;
*rep (to) once ;
sk next
dc, sc in next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk 1st dc
5-tog ;
sk next ch-2 sp, sc on next dc 5-tog ;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc 5-tog , dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Row 4 : sc
in the 1st st , sl-st in the next 12 sts ;
3 sc in next ch-3 sp and
sc in next st ;
3 hdc in the next ch-3
sp and hdc in next st ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ,
dc in next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc in each dc till the the last 8 dc ;
hdc in the next 4 dc ;
sc in the next 4 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : sl-st
in the 1st 11 sts ; sc in the next dc ;
*sk next 2 dc, dc 5-tog
in the next dc ;
(ch 2, dc 5-tog in the
next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next 2 dc , sc in
next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Note : For your convenience, place a marker in this row - as we refer to it when we're working the mirror image later on (Row 20)
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk 1st dc
5-tog , sk next ch-2 sp, sc on next dc 5-tog ;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ,
sk next dc 5-tog , dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* till last dc
5-tog set ,
ending with a sc on the last dc 5-tog. Turn.
Row 8 : sc
in the 1st sc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next dc
;
3 hdc in the next ch-3
sp ; hdc in the next sc ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn
Row 9 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc in each dc till the last 8 dc ;
hdc in the next 4 dc ;
sc in the next 4 dc. Turn.
Row 10: sl-st
in the 1st 11 sts ;
sc in the next dc ;
*sk next 2 dc, dc 5-tog
in the next dc ;
(ch 2, dc 5-tog in the
next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next
2 dc , sc in next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Note : For your convenience, place a marker in this row - as we refer to it when we're working the mirror image later on (Row 24)
Row 11 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk 1st dc
5-tog , sk next ch-2 sp, sc on next dc 5-tog ;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ,
sk next dc 5-tog , dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* till last dc 5-tog
set ,
ending with a sc on the last dc 5-tog. Turn.
Row 12 : sc
in the 1st sc ;
3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next dc ; 3
hdc in the next ch-3 sp ;
hdc in the next sc ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn
Row 13 : sl-st in the 1st dc ;
sl-st in each dc till the 1st hdc
;
ch 4, sk next 4 hdc, hdc
in next 2 sc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 sts, hdc in next sc ; 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp
;
(hdc on next dc 5-tog ;
hdc in next 7 sts ;
ch 1, sk next st , hdc in next st) ;
[ch 2, sk next 2 sts,
hdc in next st ; hdc in next 5 sts ;
ch 3, sk next 3 sts ; hdc in next st]
;
2 hdc in next ch 2 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, sk next 3 sts , sc
in next st ;
sl-st in each st till end. Turn.
We’ve completed one part
of this wonderful pattern.
You have a lovely
triangle shaped project – so as you’ve figured, we’re going to work on the next
part of this triangle to make it into a rectangle.
We’ll thus be working
one triangle at a time, to give our project its really unusual
look. Good job so far !
Now we’ve got to do the
mirror image of this triangle to make the pattern into a rectangle.
Row 16 is the row of the
dc 5-tog sets, and that is going to form the count off row for us from here for
this triangle pattern set.
Each of our dc 5-tog
sets is the full set of 3.
Row 14 : dc
in 1st st ; dc in each st and ch-sp till end. Turn.
Note : If
there is a ch-3 sp, do 3 dc in that ; 4 dc in ch-4 sps etc.
Also remember that
you should have the same number of stitches that you started Row 1 at the end
of this row.
Row 15 : dc
in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 16 : Rep
Row 2
Row 17 : Rep
Row 3
Row 18 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ,
dc in next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 21
sts (or the sc in the 3rd dc 5-tog set from end) ;
hdc in the next sc ; 3
hdc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; 3 sc in next ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 19 : sl-st
in the 1st 8 sts (so the 4 sc and 4 hdc) ;
sc in the next 4 dc ;
hdc in the next 4 dc ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 20 : sc
in 1st dc ; *sk next 2 dc, dc 5-tog in the next dc ;
(ch 2, dc 5-tog in the
next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next
2 dc , sc in next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc.
Turn.
So this is a repeat of Row 6, in reverse.
See how many dc 5-togs
you have in that row.
You should have the same number here too.
Row 21 : sl-st
in the 1st sc and ch-2 sp ;
sc in the next sc (i.e on top of
the dc 5-tog) ;
ch 3, sk next dc 5-tog,
dc in the next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next dc 5-tog
, sk next ch-2 sp, sc on next dc 5-tog ;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ,
sk next dc 5-tog , dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 22 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till you’re 12
sts from end
(i.e you have 2 ch-sps before end and the 4 sl-sts– or the middle
sc of the second last dc 5-tog set) ;
hdc in next sc ; 3 hdc
in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next st ; 3 sc in next ch-3 sp. Turn
Row 23 : sl-st
in the 1st 8 sts (i.e 4 sc and 4 hdc) ;
sc in the next 4 sts ;
hdc in the next 4 sts ;
dc in each dc till
end. Turn.
Row 24 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*sk next 2 dc, dc 5-tog
in the next dc ;
(ch 2, dc 5-tog in the
next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next 2 dc , sc in
next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc
from end. Turn.
This is a repeat
of Row 10, in reverse.
So check how many dc 5-togs you have in that row.
You should have the same number here too.
Row 25 : sl-st
in the 1st sc ;
sl in ch-2 sp and sc on top of the dc 5-tog
;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp
and dc 5-tog, dc in next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next dc 5-tog
, sk next ch-2 sp, sc on next dc 5-tog ;
ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ,
sk next dc 5-tog , dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 26 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till 12 sts
from end (ie 2 ch-sps and the sl-sts) ;
hdc in the next 4 sts ;
sc in the next 4 sts, sk the sl-sts. Turn
Row 27 : sl-st in the 1st 8 sts ; sc in next 4 sts ;
hdc in the next 4 sts,
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
This row is a little
tricky to write out – mainly because our starting stitch counts vary.
However, we've done this before, and we know what we're doing, right?
We’ve got our 2nd triangle
almost done, and have the last 2 rows to complete the triangle.
OK, let's quickly visualise how we're going to make the triangle into a rectangular shape.
So, to bring the length
of an sl-st up to a dc, we need a dc over it ;
to bring the sc up to a dc
length, we need an hdc over it ;
and to bring the length of an hdc up to a dc,
we need an sc over it.
This means the shorter the initial stitch, the longer the stitch we need to use to get it up to level. Got it?
As this is an easy-enough idea, I'm not going to write the specific pattern - but giving you a general idea of what we're doing now.
Row 28 : (Work a sl-st
in each dc ;
Work a sc over each hdc ;
work a hdc over every sc ;
and dc over every sl-st) all
through this row. Turn.
OK.. so not sure how
you’ve managed, but I’m not too happy with this 2nd triangle
here.. and now I see why the designer has just drawn straight lines (right side
of chart on top) instead of indicating which sts .. hmm..
So here’s what I’m going
to do.
I’m just going to go
ahead and adjust this next row with stitches of different heights – starting
with a double treble and then a treble stitch and slowly reducing heights of my
stitches, till I end with an sl-st at the end… and hopefully I’ll get a
rectangle.
Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Now as you do your 1st stitches
on one end, put your work down often and check that the rectangle is forming.
Sorry, I really don’t
like the sound of this bit of instruction.. just can’t see how I can write it
any better … especially if we’re all starting with different counts
Oh, you could, as
designer has suggested, do the ‘tweak row’ here on Row 28, and then do a nice
neat row of dc’s in Row 29 too.
The one thing you need
to remember is that in Row 2 (when you start working your repeats later on), the instructions read in next dc and
you may not have a dc at that spot, you may have tweaked and have a trc or an
sc.
To avoid this, you could
do as suggested above, and do you ‘tweak’ row in Row 28, so you have all dc’s
in Row 29.
Row 29 : If
you have a rectangle of the proper size by Row 28, then this row is dc in each
st till end.
If like me, your rectangle needs tweaking, then tweak away
till you get a rectangle that we can work with.
Great.. that worked..
Yaay ! It looks beautiful !!
So the pattern repeat
is Rows 2 through to 29.
Go all the way to the
neckline, with no alterations or decreases for the armholes.
For the neckline, I’m
going to cheat once again and rather than do all the tedious calculations for
the triangles, I’m going to reduce when I reach the dc rows at the end of one
block (or triangle), and then continue decreases only with dc rows.
The beauty of this
pattern by designer, is that there are only decreases for the neck, and the
armhole does not need reducing or decreases.. so once you’ve reached here,
we’re at the easy-peasy bit!
May I add, once again, that you could
actually experiment and work two rectangles (one each for front and back) without
any shaping or decrease for neck or armhole and then attach the two
shoulder bits, and the sides.
The neckline will be a boat-like / cowled one and
the shoulders will fall over to make a smallish sleeve.
So for e.g. , if you’ve
reached the length you need for your top at the end of Row 29, instead of
starting on Row 2, continue with dc rows through, and do only a shoulder bit,
turning off for the neckline, and then continue with dc rows till you have a
little neckline scooped out.
Once you’ve completed one side of your
shoulder / neckline ; re-fasten yarn and duplicate for the other shoulder… and
c’est tout ! We’re done!
Neckline instructions :
Ok, for neckline shaping : General instructions :
I always suggest that you keep a well fitting top (non-jersey or tee-shirt as those have stretch and do not give a proper estimation) and decide on the depth for your neckline. You will then know when to start your neckline shaping. You will also get an idea for the width of your neckline shape.
Mark the centre stitch and decide how wide and deep you want your neckline.
Place markers on the two sides to mark the width of your neckline.
Starting at one armhole end, work the pattern only till the 1st marker and then work back to the armhole.
You could also work in all dc or hdc for the neck portion - which means that once you reach the row that decides the depth for your neckline, you stop the pattern, and work in plain stitch all the way to the shoulders.
Whatever you decide, I suggest that you make notes for convenience.
Repeat this for the
other side as well.. fasten your shoulder and sides together – the armhole
magically works out, and we’re completely done.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Oh, just to even things
out, I ran a row of sc all around the neck and armhole edges – an optional for
you.
You could also end with a round of reverse single crochet or crab stitch around the neckline and armholes.
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Fasten off then and
weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your lovely and superbly unusual top
on and show off.. you deserve to!
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back right here for more freebie patterns
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Here are some of my
other creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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