Thursday, 23 June 2016

MULTI COLOURED SHELLED TOP

free crochet pattern, free ladies crochet top, ICE Batik yarn


MULTI COLOURED SHELLED TOP

This is a special top for a really special person.  I love that the pattern I’ve chosen is simple and yet a little complicated. I think this one is going to be a stunner not just because of the simplicity, but thanks to the lovely yarn I’ve chosen for this pattern.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838940998/



Materials used : Today I’ve used about 250 – 275 gms of the stunningly lovely Ice Batik baby acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : Ice Batik yarn is available in India – check PAC Yarn Craft Store https://www.facebook.com/groups/185225968482118/  

Size : M / 34” bust
Note : While my project has been made for a 34” bust, do read on to see how you can make this for the size you wish as well.

Skill level : Easy to Intermediate

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                dc : Double crochet
ch(s) : chain(s                                                               ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s)                                                             rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                                        yo : Yarn over
sk : Skip                                                                           lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)


Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.


Instructions : Using U.S terminology

Part 1 : Lower part or body of the top

free crochet pattern, free ladies top crochet pattern, ICE Batik yarn


This is a straight simple pattern.  I have divided this into two parts for convenience.  

For Part 1, we will start our top from the bottom and work our way up to the armhole and shoulders.  We start the top with half the round measure of the waist or hip, depending on how long you want your top.

For Part 2, which will be the sleeves and yoke : We will work this in one continuous motion – so we will work this one long rectangular ‘strip’ that will be worked from one end to another – that will be one sleeve, then the yoke and down the second sleeve all at once.

Got the picture? Let’s pick up our hooks and get underway.

We start with a plain lower part for the top and we will work a lovely shelled pattern only for the continuous sleeves + yoke.

So for the lower part, no pattern or stitch counts.  We will work it in plain simple dc, hdc or sc, -whatever stitch suits you.

So you will just work half the measure of the round body (i.e waist or hip) and get started.

While this is not part of the pattern (or chart), I’ve decided to give an edge for the top and will be starting with a few rounds of post stitches.

I will write that down here, but if you do not want to do that, then just ignore the first few rows and work all plain stitch from the first fsc start row.


free crochet pattern, free crochet ladies top pattern, ICE Batik yarn
free crochet pattern, free ladies top crochet pattern, ICE Batik yarn



Start : with fsc for the half the round waist / hip measurement.

As I mentioned above, you can choose whatever stitch you want for the following rounds till you reach the yoke/armhole level.

free crochet pattern, free crochet ladies top, ICE Batik yarn


I am going to write dc, but work the stitch of your choice.   The first few rows are going to be the post stitches, but if you do not want that, then start with Row 1 below.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you reach the yoke / armhole level.

In case you want the post stitch start then here’s what I’ve done.


free crochet pattern, free crochet ladies top pattern



Alternate Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; fpdc in the next fsc and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

Alternate Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc in the next dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Alternate Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc in the next dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep Alternate Rows 2 & 3 once or 2 times ; then Rep Row 2 till you reach the yoke / armhole level.

The pattern is a really easy one, so maybe for this, you may want to give a slight shape for the armhole.

What I have done is work without a change in number of stitches till I was about 3- 4” from the armhole, and then I added 2 sts per row every alternate row to give a slight shaping.  
That said, I am using a thicker yarn, so my 3 -4” and my 2 sts per row are probably a lower addition of stitches than the yarn you’re using.  So basically if you are using a thinner the yarn, and you follow the instructions above, you will be adding more stitches in the same 3 – 4” that I am.

And how do we add these 2 sts per row? Elementary my dear Mr. Watson J
You start and end every increase row with 2 dc ; and for every other non-increase row, you work a dc in each dc all the way end to end.

For all these suggestions and ideas, I will always maintain that all this works best if you have a template or a well-fitting garment of the person for whom this is intended. 

So what do we do if this is meant to be a surprise or a gift? Well, if it is for a good friend, well, then go ahead and slip one of her tops out of her room when she isn’t looking.. I’d do that
J

And if this is just for a regular order, then you’ll have been told what size they are .. so say a M/L/XL, right? So if you don’t have that size in your home, head on down to the closest shop and get one for regular size check up. Easy ain’t it?


Part 2 : Yoke & sleeves





Great! so we’re all done with the lower part of our top and are now at the armhole / yoke point.  As you can see from the pattern, we’re going to work one long continuous section for this bit.
Our pattern repeat for the shelled yoke/armhole piece is 15.

So first off, go ahead and count the number of stitches across and see if that is in multiples of 15. If it is, then yaay, half your work is done. If not, you have a few calculations to make.
a)    Check your gauge.  You need to check how many stitches make an inch.
b)    Calculate the number of stitches you will need per arm depending on the length of sleeve you are going to make.

So how do you calculate the number of stitches?  Point (a) above was to check your gauge, which means calculating how many stitches make an inch across.  So lets say you have 5 sts making an inch, and you need 15” for your sleeve length, then you will need a total of (15 x 5 sts) = 75 sts that will make one sleeve length.  As we’re working a continuous sleeve, then you will need (75 x 2) = 150 sts for both sleeve lengths.

These are the 150 sts that you will add on to the yoke bit, (75 on either side) to make the sleeve + yoke continuously.

For convenience, I will re-start numbering for this section.  Please note that all instructions henceforth will refer to the numbering only in this section.

Note that I will write work a dc in each dc, but I am not sure what stitch you have used for the lower section of the top earlier.  IF you have used a sc or hdc, then you will work a sc or hdc in each sc or hdc for the body of the top.

Row 1 : Start with chain in multiples of 15 for the number of stitches that you need for the first sleeve ; sl-st in the 1st st of the body of the top and work a dc in each dc till end ; add the same number of chain plus 2* at this end as you have started with at the other end.

*Note : The plus 2 ch : When we start our 1st dc, we will work it in the 3rd st from end, so our 1st 2 ch will make our 1st dc.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st st ;
*(ch 4, sk next 6 sts, dc in the next st ; ch 5, dc in the next st) ;
ch 4, dc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.  

Row 3 : dc in the 1st st ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
*sk next dc, 4 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, 4 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st st ; ch 2, dc in the same 1st st ;
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc in the same ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc ; ch 2, dc in the same last dc.  Turn.

Do you see what we’re doing? We’re creating the next set of shells in the centre of the earlier set.  So basically it’s the same two pattern repeat, but just moving it a little. Got it?

Row 5 : dc in the 1st st ; 4 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
(sk next dc, 4 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, 4 dc in the same ch-5 sp)* ;
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp ; 4 dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 6 : dc in the 1st st ;
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc in the same ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

I am sure you know it, but our repeat Rows are Rows 3 – 6.  Rep these four rows till your project reaches the shoulder level.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

We have successfully completed one half of our top.
Repeat all these instructions for the other side of your top.

Finishing :
Join your two halves along one side of the sleeve and then join at the shoulder, leaving a large section free for the neckline.  Our neckline in this project is a cute boat-like slit.  So depending on whether you want it to fall off your shoulders or not, work the shoulder bits… the less you join along the shoulders, the more it will “fall off”, and become the “off-the-shoulder” you desire.


Join along the lower part of the sleeves as well, continuing down along the sides of the top to finish it off neatly.

Weave in and glue down all ends, before either gifting this or modeling it off yourself.

And can you believe how beautiful this project is !

You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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 Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J