Friday, 18 December 2015

FRONT OPEN SHELLED VEST



FRONT OPEN SHELLED VEST

When I saw this pattern on some Pinterest board, I just loved it.. and it’s this simple pattern with this really lovely shelled pattern at the end – I mean, how can anyone resist this, right?

Obviously you can’t either, as you’re back here with me.

This is not my original pattern. I found this photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


As I reached the border, I realized that I’ve started my vest from the bottom up, but the chart is from the shoulders down.  Ah well, this is how I’ve done it.. and there’s a chart attached.. so go ahead and work it whichever way suits you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                       dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                       ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                       rep : Repeat

 Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work our whole vest in one piece, starting at the base of the vest, working towards the shoulders.
At the armhole / neck level, we’ll divide off and work the two fronts and one back part of the vest separately.


So we’re working in one piece from waist up – so our start row needs to be the same measure as your Round Waist.

Start with fsc in multiples of 24+ 1 (Round waist measure)

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; (ch 5, sk  next 3 fsc , sc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
*5 dc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; sc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Note : I decided to do 3 dc instead of 5 dc in that sc, but as you can see, it doesn’t really change the pattern that much.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;  
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till last end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
*5 dc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; sc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rep Row 3 & 4 till your project reaches the armhole / neckline level , ending with Row 3. In this project, we’re going to divide for armhole and neckline at the same point.  We will then work one part for the back, and the two fronts till the shoulder level.

So off we go.. and we’ll meet shortly for the divided part, just off the armhole.

Once you’re at that point, fold your project into four – and ensuring that you have two fronts and one back, mark the points for the armhole. (see chart below)


Now the armhole opening is over five ch-5 sps. So where ever your centre / armhole point comes in, ensure you have two ch-5 sps on either side of that centre ch-5 sp. Got it?
Now for convenience, let’s move markers to the ‘end points’ of the armholes, such that we now have four markers (two for each end of the armhole).

This is also the point where we’ll be reducing for the neckline and making a nice “V”-neck there too. 


For convenience, I’m going to restart row numbering from 1 again.  Please note that any instruction from here on will refer only to these row numbers.

Now our pattern is not changing in any way, and as you’ve done it so many times now, you know it off by heart.  So the instructions below may be a bit hazy as we’re probably going to be making decreases at different points.  I am going to write it down in general, and hope (fingers crossed) that you’ll understand what I mean.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st sc, sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
[5 dc in the next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
*rep (to)  and  [to] till one ch-5 sp before marker ; dc in the marker.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc; ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep (to) till the last ch-5 sp ; dc in that last ch-5 sp.  Turn.

So these are basically the decreases we’re making at each end, one each at the armhole and neckline end.
Now depending on how deep you wish your armhole and how slender a shoulder you wish, decrease the neckline to get a nice “V” shape.  Once you’ve achieved the shoulder width, continue with the pattern without further decrease till your project reaches the shoulder level.

I also suggest that you make a note of what you’re doing for this side of the front, so you can then duplicate it for the other side too.

Reduce for the armhole section around the back till your project reaches the shoulder level, as the back goes up all the way to the shoulder.

So the question here could be, where do we decided how far we work this and how much do we leave for the border..
Well, here’s what I did.. As we’re working the border from the other side of the fsc start row anyway, I cheated.. as soon as I finished one ball of yarn, and as we’re working the front-back in a continuous piece anyway, I just decided to work the full border.. and then decide where I’d split for the armhole(s).  Cheater? Yes.. Did it work? Yup.. it did J

Fasten off leaving a tail for attachment.

Join the front  and back shoulder bits and then we’ll go down to the border.

Border :
For the border, we will go back to that foundation fsc row and work from the other side of that row.


We will start our shells from each of the 5-dc sets that we have.

Border Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; (ch 5, sk  next 3 fsc , sc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) once ;
[sk next 3 fsc , 2 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2, dc in the same fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same fsc] ; sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
*rep (to) 4 times ; rep [to] once* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Border Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
[dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 2, 6 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc] ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; sc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Border Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc,
[2 dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3, rep [to] 6 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Border Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
*ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Border Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 5, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep (to) 4 times ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end.

Once the border is done, rather than fastening off, I’d suggest you run a round of dc’s all across the front placket, around the back of the neck and down the other side of the front placket.  I also decided to work one round of sc’s all across the border (an sc in each ch-st and each dc 3-tog) and this gives that edge a nice firm finish too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J