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Saturday, 12 December 2015

MY 2nd CHEVRON CLUTCH PURSE


MY CHEVRON CLUTCH PURSE

This is the second clutch purse I’m making using the Chevron stitch.
In the earlier one, I just made a rectangle and folding that in half made a clutch purse.  With this one though, I’m making one end straight-edged and the other one (i.e the flap that will show on top) will have the lovely arrow shaped that is so definitive of the Chevron stitch.

As I said before, I do not find the Chevron stitch a ‘do-in-front-of-TV-and-not-pay-attention’ kind of projects either.  
Chevrons need counting .. well, at least I think so.  Getting that “V” shape just right needs a little focus, but once done .. aah, it’s so totally worth it.

After I made this, someone said that this purse is available as a free pattern titled Bridesmaid Purse, and that one uses a single crochet all through.
Being lazy, I always try to find ‘cheat ways’ to get my project done ‘faster’ but I am fussy enough to want it to look nice and stylish too. 
So this is what I’ve come up with. J

Difficulty level : Intermediate crochet skills

Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian polyester metallic yarn,  with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; beads (optional)

This yarn is similar to a 4-ply, light fingering yarn.
If using cotton, I’d say we can get a great project with our Indian Laura knitting cotton and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.  Anchor knitting cotton will also work, though it’s a little thinner yarn, so I’d suggest a 3 mm crochet hook.


How to thread beads onto your yarn :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3WKv0W8miQ

OR


Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 hdc : Half double crochet
ch : chain                                                                    ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                    rep : Repeat

Stitches usedUsing U.S terminology
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of chainless double crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even. http://www.mooglyblog.com/standing-half-double-crochet/.
If you do not like this start, do start with a ch 2 that will count as your first hdc.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using a Chainless /Foundation hdc start.

Pattern Instructions : 

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We start with fsc (or fhdc),  and then start on our Chevron stitch.  We will make a long rectangular piece, which we will fold up to make this lovely wallet / clutch purse. 
Now the foundation row that we start with will be the inner portion of our clutch purse, and we will end with the lovely chevron edge that forms the flap of our clutch purse.

This difference is only important if you decide to use the beads in this project.

So I feel it does not matter if the part that goes inside (I mean the part that is under the flap) has any beads or not as it is not going to be seen.
So I have opted not to use beads in those rows that go under the flap.
What I have done is decided what the width for my finished clutch purse is.  I have then not worked beads in that first portion (so say I want a width of 5, I have not worked beads in the first 5” of my purse.
That said, if you decide you don’t want beads on the back of your work either, then calculate that in too.

Per row for this stitch count, we’ll need 18 beads, as we’ll use a total of 6 beads per “V” of the Chevron stitch.

So how do you calculate how wide you want your purse? (i.e from side to side)

So each “V’ of the chevron is made up of (10 + 10 + 2) + 2 , the 10 sts being one half of the “V” and the 2 being sk sts in between the “V”. 
Our project has three “V’s” which makes it (60 + 8) = 68. 

Now my suggestion is that you work the first row (or 2, depending on how mad you get frogging stuff back) and then decide on how wide you want your start row.  You cannot decide on the length of the 68 fsc as that will shrink when it becomes a “V”.

Finally,to give it a lovely texture to our purse , we will be working only in back loops throughout the project. 
So that’s what hdc-blo means. (Half double crochet in back loop only)

Right, we have got all our ideas down and you have your calculations ready ..Let’s get started.

Start with 68 fsc.

Row 1 : 2 hdc-blo in the 1st fsc ; hdc-blo in the next 9 fsc ; sk next 2 fsc ;
*hdc-blo in the next 10 fsc ; 3 hdc-blo in the next fsc ; hdc-blo in the next 10 fsc ; sk next 2 fsc* ;
rep *to* till the last 10 fsc ; hdc-blo in the last 9 fsc ; 2 hdc-blo in the last fsc.  Turn

Row 2 : 2 hdc-blo in the 1sthdc; hdc-blo in the next 9 hdc ; sk next 2 hdc ;
*hdc-blo in the next 10 hdc ; 3 hdc-blo in the next hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 10 hdc ; sk next 2 hdc  * ;
rep *to* till the last 10 hdc ; hdc-blo in the last 9 hdc ; 2 hdc-blo in the last hdc.  Turn

Row 3 : Rep Row 2

And here’s where your creativity comes in.  If you are working with the beads all the way through your work, then you will work the bead row in now, and work the pattern repeat as given under.

If you decide NOT to add beads now and only for the flap, then rep Row 2 till your project reaches the width needed before you decide to add in the bead row.
Once you add in the bead row, please follow the pattern repeat given.

Finally, as I’ve decided to use the beads only on the flap, I thought I’d keep the bead rows closer.  So I’ve alternated Rows 2 and 4, thus I have a bead row every alternate row.  So more decisions for you.

Row 4 : Bead  row : 2 hdc-blo in the 1sthdc; 
(hdc-blo in the next hdc ; INSERT BEAD, sk next hdc ; hdc-blo in the next hdc) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; sk next 2 hdc ;
*[rep (to) 3 times ; hdc-blo in the next hdc] ; 3 hdc-blo in the next hdc ; 
rep [to] once ; sk next 2 hdc* ;
rep *to* till the last 10 hdc ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
2 hdc-blo in the last hdc.  Turn.

Row 5 - 7 : Rep Row 2.

Row 8 : Rep Row 4.


Note : In Row 5, finding that back loop may be a bit troublesome, but don’t worry too much about it, as the lovely bead will make up for it.  In Rows 6 & 7, you will find the back loop easily.

Rep Rows 5 - 8 till your project is the length  you are happy with.  Remember though, this is just a general statement, as you may have (as I have) decided to change your Bead Row frequency.  J
So let’s get this rectangular bit done and we will then fold our rectangular project to make a neat clutch ..that looks like a cute crown!

Fasten off and weave in ends.

We’ve finished with the chevron portion of the purse.  We’ll now go back to the start fsc / fhdc row and will straighten that edge.
Re-attach your yarn in that first row.

Now what we’re going to do here is fill in the “V” bits, so we’ll work all the way to the tip of the first “V” and then work back and forth to close this “V” and straighten this edge.  We will then fasten off and work the next “V”, all the way through the top edge, till its neat and straight.
Let’s get this bit done then.

Top Row 1 : ch 1, trc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 3 sts ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; sc in the next 3 sts (and you should be in the of the 1st 3-hdc set) sc 3-tog over the next 3 sts ; *sc in the next 3 sts ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; dc in the next 3 sts ; (and you should be near the centre ‘valley’ sts) ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts ; dc in the next 3 sts ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; sc in the next 3 sts (and you’re be in the 3-hdc set) , sc 3-tog over the next 3 sts* ; rep *to* through the “V” sts till you’re at the last half “V” ; sc in the next 3 sts ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; dc in the next 3 sts ; trc in the last st. Turn.

Top Row 2 : sc in the 1st st and each st till end.  Turn.

Top Row 3 : Rep Top Row 2 once.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Finishing :
Line your bag, attach the zipper ..and we’re done with this lovely beaded Chevron stitch clutch purse.




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