LEGO BACK PACK 3
If you’ve been following my blogs, you’ll know that this is my third Lego back pack – I made the Lego blanket for a baby first, then one for a little kitten, and now there are three Lego backpacks to this lovely Lego set .
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Materials used : Today I’ve used Vardhaman acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Oswal acrylic yarns, Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced.
If you’ve made one Lego creation, then the blocks are easy.
The little Lego character though involves multiple colours ..and carrying them along, swapping them around etc. ; that need intermediate to advanced skills levels.
But don’t let that put you off.. there’s a ‘cheat’ idea for that as well.. so come along..
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
“Pop” stitch : The designer has used the following stitch and called it a “Pop” stitch. It is 5 trc, all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
trc : Triple / treble crochet stitch
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This back packs is for a young boy and I thought I’d make another small change from the last back pack I’d made. So while the basic idea and Lego block creation stays the same, here are my notes for the differences / tweaks.
If you have read my blog about my earlier Lego creations, then you’ll know what I mean about the video link here..
What I love most about this video link is that the super designer does not waste any time in talking about anything.. just goes straight into the project
– my kind of video !
Inspired by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9b5i81Ao1U
The designer has a superb video that is totally self explanatory.
My notes here are only for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chain-less dc start, and a finishing idea / difference.
Start with 14 fdc. Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc. Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other start – however, this is just a choice.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.
Finishing for Lego block : sc in each st till end ;
1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ;
1 more sc in the corner st (back where we started out).
Join with a sl-st to the first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One Lego block made.
So for this back pack too I have used this pattern and made the full front of the bag with its regular Lego bricks.
For Back Pack tweaks , read on.
Back Pack tweaks :
I made the Lego brick in the same way as with the regular pattern.
For today’s pattern tweak, I thought I’d make a small Lego character – and of course I chose to go with the first and most famous of characters.
Lego character : I used this graph as a rough guide, and here are my notes.
I will be using a base of white, with the blue and red for the body and yellow colours for the head.
Row 1 : Using white : Start with 27 fsc.
From this row on, we’ll be using multiple colours. I suggest that rather than cut and re-attach yarn, carry your yarn along with the yarn in use, adding it to the bottom of the stitch so that we have it handy when we need it. Refresh with the ‘how-to’ link at the top of this blog.
Always carry your yarn along unless indicated otherwise
Now for our cheat : In case you are unable to carry the yarns along, you can always join new colour, fasten off old colour and carry on. As long as you are able to easily weave in the edges and are happy with the end result, we’re all good.
That said, I’m going to write instructions here assuming we’re all carrying our yarns along.
Also remember to untangle the yarns at the end of every row.
Check gauge at the end of the first row, check that this fits the space you’ve kept – else another cheat / tweak needed.
So if this does not fit the space you’ve kept then there are two options for this little character.
a) You make a dc square / rectangle of the size needed in the Lego space and attach this plain square. You then make this Lego character as a separate applique and attach it on. You then have the added advantage of stuffing it or parts of it to give it a lovely 3D effect
b) Change the size of your bag to fit this in by either starting with ch sts (which do reduce the length of your chain a bit, which then reduces the width of this piece) and changing all dc’s to hdc or sc (to reduce the length)
And carrying on….
Row 2 : Using white : dc in the 1st 5 fsc ;
Change to blue : dc in the next 8 fsc ;
Change to white : dc in the next fsc ;
Change to blue : dc in the next 8 fsc ;
Leave blue here and change to white : dc in the last 5 fsc. Turn.
Row 3 : Using white : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
Change to blue : dc in the next 8 dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : dc in the next 8 dc ;
Leave blue here and change to white : dc in the last 5 dc. Turn.
Row 4 : Rep Row 3.
Row 5 : Using white : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
Change to blue : dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave blue here and change to white : dc in the last 5 dc. Turn.
Row 5 : Using yellow : dc in the 1st dc ;
Change to white : (carry yellow along) dc in the next 3 dc ;
Change to yellow: dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : (carry both white and yellow yarns along) dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave blue here and change to yellow : (carry white along) dc in the next dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next 3 dc ;
Change to yellow: dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : Using yellow : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
Change to red : (carry blue, white and yellow yarns along)
dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave red here and change to yellow : (carry white and blue along) dc in the next 5 dc ;
Leave blue behind in the 3rd st from end ;
take white along till end. Turn
Fasten off yellow
Row 7 : Using white : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 2 dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next dc ;
Change to red : (carry blue and white yarns along) dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave red here and change to white : (carry blue along) dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 2 dc ;
Change to white : (Leave blue) dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : Using white : dc in the 1st dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 4 dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next dc ;
Change to red : (carry blue and white yarns along) dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave red here and change to white : (carry blue along) dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 4 dc ;
Change to white : (Leave blue) dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 9 : Using white : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 3 dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next dc ;
Change to red : (carry blue and white yarns along) dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave red here and change to white : (carry blue along) dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 3 dc ;
Change to white : (Leave blue) dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 10 : Using white : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 3 dc ;
Change to white : dc in the next dc ;
Change to red : (carry blue and white yarns along) dc in the next 17 dc ;
Leave red here and change to white : (carry blue along) dc in the next dc ;
Change to blue : (carry white along) dc in the next 2 dc ;
Change to white : (Leave blue) dc in the last 3 dc. Turn. Fasten off blue
Row 11 : Using white : dc in the 1st 7 dc ;
Change to red : (carry white along) dc in the next 14 dc ;
Fasten off red here and change to white : dc in the last 7 dc. Turn.
Row 12 : Using white : dc in the 1st 11 dc ;
Re-attach yellow : (carry white along) dc in the next 6 dc ;
Using white : (Leave yellow) dc in the last 11 dc. Turn.
Row 13 : Using white : dc in the 1st 8 dc ;
Using yellow : (carry white along) dc in the next 12 dc ;
Using white : (Leave yellow) dc in the last 8 dc. Turn.
Row 14 : Using white : dc in the 1st 8 dc ;
Using yellow : (carry white along) dc in the next 12 dc ;
Using white : (Leave yellow) dc in the last 8 dc. Turn.
Row 15 and 16 : Rep Row 14
Row 17 : Using white : dc in the 1st 12 dc ;
Using yellow : (carry white along) dc in the next 4 dc ;
Using white : (Leave yellow) dc in the last 12 dc. Turn.
Row 18 : Using white : sc in each st till end.
Fasten off all colours and weave in ends.
To attach I used a contrast red and did a row of dc’s to attach the top and bottom of my appliqué and a row of sc’s to attach the sides of the appliqué onto the main bag.
Finishing for Back Pack :
Pull tie : We now need to finish the top for this bag.
So I first did one round of sc (or hdc if you so prefer) around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end. (You could also do a trc instead of a dc, if you wish to have a longer opening)
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can easily thread in your pull tie.
For my pull tie, I just held a few of the coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the length needed.
Measurements / Length calculations for back of your backpack
The two back straps are a fairly easy calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on both top and bottom ends. Ensure that your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the bag.
To make the strap, I just held all the yarns together and made a long length of chain (with a 10 mm crochet hook). At the end of the length needed, I doubled back on the same ch, doing an sc in each ch all the way to the end. If you feel you want a thicker strap, just double back on your sc’s all the way to the end.
Once satisfied with the thickness, fasten off and weave in ends.
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