Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA
Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
“Pop” stitch : The designer has used the following stitch and called it a “Pop” stitch. It is 5 trc, all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.
Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
ch-sp : chain space
trc : triple crochet
trc 5-tog : triple crochet 5-tog.
Instructions :
The designer has a superb video that is totally self explanatory. My notes here are only for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chainless dc start, and a finishing idea / difference.
Now here’s what I’ve done on this write up. Below is the *regular* way the bag is made, just in case you missed that earlier blog about it.. and then is the tweak I’ve made for this one. This is because I’ve made two bags – one the *regular* way and one tweaked.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Start with 14 fdc. Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc. Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other start – however, this is just a choice.
Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you could work a dc 5-tog instead of a trc 5-tog for your ‘pop stitch’. Check the top of this blog for a video on dc 5-tog.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ; 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ;
“pop” st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 sc ;
sc in the last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.
Finishing for Lego block : sc in each st till end ; 1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ; 1 more sc in the corner st (back where we started out). Join with a sl-st to the first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One Lego block made.
So for Back Pack 1, I used this pattern and made the full front of the bag with its regular Lego bricks. For Back Pack 2, see my tweaks below.
Back Pack 2 tweaks :
I made the Lego brick in the same way as with the *regular* pattern. For the 2nd brick though, instead of making a brick and then joining later, I decided to use the “Join-as-you-go” method and see if that worked.
So for Lego Brick 2 , I started by re-attaching yarn for the next brick on the WRONG SIDE of Lego brick 1. Sl-st in each st till end. Turn. (Ensure you have 14 sts)
The reason for attaching on the wrong side : so that the pop stitch then comes in on the same side as with the 1st brick. So now ensure that this works for you too.
Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. Turn.
I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.
Right then, you’ve now got your one column of Lego bricks. I then made the 2nd column similarly, and then to join these two, decided to do a single longer Lego brick.
After making all these bricks, you too would have figured out the count repeat for this lovely construction.
Our Lego brick is a 3 + 2 repeat count.
So for the longer brick, I re-attached the yarn along one of the longer end of the rectangular column of Lego bricks just made, ensuring I have a stitch count of 3 + 2.
Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.
Turn.
I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ;
5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 sc ;
sc in the last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
dc in each st till end. Turn.
In our final row, we will join this long Lego brick with the 2nd column we’ve made.
For this, ensure that you keep the wrong sides facing one another and work the sc-join (as per the video link given for the original Lego brick) between the two brick columns.
If this is too complicated a join, you could finish off the long Lego brick row, and then whip stitch it to the other column.
Finishing for Back Pack :
a) Now I thought that for the back of my bag (i.e the part that rests against the back and so does not really show) I’d do a neat striped pattern – so I just made a rectangle of the same size as I have for the front, using one colour per line. Yes, this does mean that there are a lot of colour changes, but I love this finish too.
Measurements / Length calculations for the back of your backpack
The two back straps are a fairly easy calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on both top and bottom ends. Ensure that your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the bag.
c) Our final finishing will be the pull tie top for this bag.
So I first did one round of sc around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end.
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can easily thread in your pull tie.
For my pull tie, I just held a few of the coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the length needed.
I finally added a little shell at the end of each yarn, which not only neatly hides that end, but also gives it a cute finish.
Or check out this video
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