Google+ Followers

Friday, 10 July 2015

LEGO BACK PACK 2


LEGO BACK PACK 2

If you’ve been following my blogs, you’ll know that this is my fourth Lego creation – I made the Lego blanket for a baby first, then one for a little kitten, and my then my first Lego backpack.  This backpack is for a young boy and I thought I’d make another small change from the last backpack I’d made.  So while the basic idea and Lego block creation stays the same, here are my notes for the differences / tweaks. 

If you have read my blog about the blankets, then you’ll know what I mean about the video link here..
What I love most about this video link is that the super designer does not waste any time in talking about anything.. just goes straight into the project – my kind of video ! J


Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian acrylic Vardhaman Millenium yarn , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.  The range of colours in our Polyester yarn are superb, and I love the colours I’ve used for this creation.  This yarn is a Sport / DK yarn.

Stitches used :

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

“Pop”  stitch :  The designer has used the following stitch and called it a “Pop” stitch.  It is 5 trc, all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.

How to use an sc-join to join our front and back : Here are two links that will help or refresh your memory on an sc-join. One is a tutorial and the other is a video link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmYEsHlgQ30  or

How to whipstitch join our front and back :  Here are two links that will help or refresh your memory on how to whip-stitch join. 

 Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                             fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                             hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             ch : Chain
  
The designer has a superb video that is totally self explanatory.  My notes here are only for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chainless dc start, and a finishing idea / difference.

Now here’s what I’ve done on this write up.  Below is the *regular* way the bag is made, just in case you missed that earlier blog about it.. and then is the tweak I’ve made for this one.  This is because I’ve made two bags – one the *regular* way and one tweaked.

Start with 14 fdc.  Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc.  Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other start – however, this is just a choice.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; 
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end.  Turn.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.

Finishing for Lego block : sc in each st till end ; 1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ; 1 more sc in the corner st (back where we started out).  Join with a sl-st to the first st.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

One Lego block made.

So for Back Pack 1, I used this pattern and made the full front of the bag with its regular Lego bricks.  For Back Pack 2, see my tweaks below.

Back Pack 2 tweaks :
I made the Lego brick in the same way as with the *regular* pattern.  For the 2nd brick though, instead of making a brick and then joining later, I decided to use the “Join-as-you-go” method and see if that worked.

So for Lego Brick 2 , I started by re-ataching yarn for the next brick on the WRONG SIDE of Lego brick 1. Sl-st in each st till end.  Turn. (Ensure you have 14 sts)

The reason for attaching on the wrong side : so that the pop stitch then comes in on the same side as with the 1st brick.  So now ensure that this works for you too.

Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.  Turn.  I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; 
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end.  Turn.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.

Right then, you’ve now got your one column of Lego bricks.  I then made the 2nd column similarly, and then to join these two, decided to do a single longer Lego brick.

After making all these bricks, you too would have figured out the count repeat for this lovely construction.  Our Lego brick is a 3 + 2 repeat count.

So for the longer brick, I re-attached the yarn along one of the longer end of the rectangular column of Lego bricks just made, ensuring I have a stitch count of 3 + 2. 


Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.  Turn.  I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; *sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end.  Turn.

In our final row, we will join this long Lego brick with the 2nd column we’ve made. For this, ensure that you keep the wrong sides facing one another and work the sc-join (as per the video link given for the original Lego brick) between the two brick columns. 

If this is too complicated a join, you could finish off the long Lego brick row, and then whip stitch it to the other column.

Finishing for Back Pack :
a)    Now I thought that for the back of my bag (i.e the part that rests against the back and so does not really show) I’d do a neat striped pattern – so I just made a rectangle of the same size as I have for the front, using one colour per line.  Yes, this does mean that there are a lot of colour changes, but I love this finish too.


Once I’ve made this back piece, I will then attach the Lego brick front to this back piece with an sc-join or whip stitch. (Informative links given right on top of this blog)

b)    We also need two shoulder straps and for this I made a long fdc chain and then used one colour for each row. I’ve then lined this strap as well to give it more strength. 
(You'll see what I mean in the photos below)



Measurements / Length calculations for the back of your backpack
The two back straps are a fairly easy calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on both top and bottom ends.  Ensure that your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the bag.

c)     Our final finishing will be the pull tie top for this bag.  So I first did one round of sc around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end. 
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can easily thread in your pull tie.

For my pull tie, I just held a few of the coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the length needed.
I finally added a little shell at the end of each yarn, which not only neatly hides that end, but also gives it a cute finish.



Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  


Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at these other beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.































http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2015/01/shelled-clutch.html