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Tuesday, 7 July 2015

WONKY SQUARE BLANKET


WONKY SQUARE BLANKET

Blankets are a fun projects at any time.. and after a few lacy and intricate patterns involving thin yarn, this is a great break.
I love that there is a spiral in a square.. and that it makes the eyes go all wonky .. hmmm hopefully it won’t make the mum n baby all crazy too.. but I love this pattern.. so here goes.

Inspired by http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/alen-ka/post358266198/ , I’ll just add my notes here and give you, yet again, choices n decisions

Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of our lovely Indian Vardhaman millennium DK ply acrylic yarn , and some Bernat Baby Soft with a 4.5 mm crochet hook

I’ve decided to go with just one large square in two colours – but if you want a nice whacky one, I’d suggest that you make squares in alternating colours and then attach them along.  So for the first square you could start with the Main Colour (MC) in the centre and then change to the Contrast Colour (CC) ; and with the next square, you start with CC and then move onto MC.  The pattern link above has a chart for alternating squares here – so you could use that as a guide too.

Stitches used :

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to join granny squares : There are several ways to join squares, and here are two links – to whip stitch them or to join with sc crochet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5MqVVlekV0 ; or  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUGb9pIcsXE

How to interchange colours : There are several ways to interchange colours when crocheting, and here are a two lovely self-explanatory links.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                                       ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             MC : Main Colour
CC : Contrast Colour                                                hdc : Half Double Crochet
Trc : Triple / Treble crochet

So I’ll be writing instructions to make one motif or square, and you decide if you want to continue with just these two colours or as suggested above, alternate the colours and get a set of squares that you will join on later.  
This pattern shows through mainly because of the different colours – so we’ll use just two for now.. the MC and a CC.
  
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle using MC and 8 sc in that circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 
Pull lightly to close the magic circle.

Round 2 : Using MC : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 

Round 3 : Using CC : dc in the 1st sc ; *hdc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc ; hdc in the next sc ; dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 

From this round on, we’ll be alternating colours every round

Round 4 : Using MC : sc in 1st st ; hdc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; trc in the next st ; sc in the next st ; *ch 4, sc in next st ; hdc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; trc in the next st ; sc in the next st* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 

Round 5 : Using CC : dc in 1st 2 sts ; trc in the next 2 sts ; *ch 4, (2 sc and 2 hdc in the next ch-4 sp ; dc in the next 2 sts ; trc in the next 2 sts) ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 2 sc and 2 hdc in the next ch-4 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 6 : Using MC : dc in 1st st ; trc in the next 3 sts ; *ch 4, (3 sc and 1 hdc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; dc in the next 3 sts ; trc in the next 3 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 3 sc and 1 hdc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; dc in the next 2 sts ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 7 : Using CC : trc in 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4, (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 4 sts ; dc in the next 4 sts ; trc in the next 4 sts)* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 4 sts ; dc in the next 4 sts ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 8 : Using MC : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 6 sts ; dc in the next 5 sts ; trc in the next 5 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 6 sts ; dc in the next 5 sts ; trc in the next st and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 9 : Using CC : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 8 sts ; dc in the next 7 sts ; trc in the next 5 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 8 sts ; dc in the next 7 sts ; trc in the next st and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 10 : Using MC : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; dc in each st till next ch-4 sp* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; dc in all sts till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 11 : Using CC : hdc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 3 , 2 hdc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in each st till next ch-4 sp* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 , 2 hdc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in all sts till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 12 : Using MC : hdc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 2 , 2 hdc in the next ch-3 sp ; hdc in each st till next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 2 , 2 hdc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in all sts till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 


Fasten off and weave in ends.

Congratulations! You’ve completed one lovely motif or granny square.  Now here’s what I do.  Lay this square flat and measure it out.  Then decide what size blanket you’re going to make depending on this one square size, and accordingly work out how many squares you’re going to need.  It would also help to work out a chart, alternating the MC and CC start colours, so that every alternate square has a different ending.   

There are links given at the top of this blog on “how to join motifs / squares”.

Now here’s my tweak – Instead of doing a set of motifs / granny squares and attaching them, I’m going to make one large blanket.  So here’s what I plan on doing ...

One note though – IF you’re working on making this into a one piece afghan, it does tend to curl a bit along the edges – so it’s not the “ideal” pattern – or one needs to tweak it a bit.  So though I have done it, I’d say stick to the original square and do it the traditional way.

Remember to alternate start colours

Right so analyzing Rounds 8 and 9, one sees that the ch-4 sps all have scs, and then there is a gradual increase in the number of hdc’s , dc and trc added.  So for my Round 11 , I am going to do the following

Round 11A : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 10 sts ; dc in the next 9 sts ; trc in the next 5 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 10 sts ; dc in the next 9 sts ; trc in the next st and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 12A : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 12 sts ; dc in the next 10 sts ; trc in the next 6 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 12 sts ; dc in the next 10 sts ; trc in the next 2 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 13A : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 14 sts ; dc in the next 12 sts ; trc in the next 6 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 14 sts ; dc in the next 12 sts ; trc in the next 2 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 14A : trc in the 1st 4 sts ; *ch 4 , (4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in the next 16 sts ; dc in the next 13 sts ; trc in the next 7 sts)* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 4 , 4 sc in the next ch-4 sp ; hdc in next 16 sts ; dc in the next 13 sts ; trc in the next 3 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Right then.. if you’re with me till here, you’ve figured out how we’re increasing.  In each round, we’re increasing each side by 4 sts.  So we’re evenly dividing this increase between the hdc’s and dc’s.  So as you will see in Rows 11 and 13 (and all odd rows) we’ve increased 2 hdc and 2 dc from the previous rows.  In the alternating rows, we are increasing the trc, so to compensate, we change the increases a bit – and in Rows 12 and 14 (and all even rows), we’ve increased 2 hdc, but only 1 dc and then 1 trc.
The increase of this trc ensures that there is a gradual change in the triangular shape that makes up this wonky square.  So if you want it to be a steeper triangle, on odd rows, you could increase 1 hdc, 1 dc and two trc.  Let’s see how that works.


Finishing : For finishing, I followed instructions of Rounds 11 & Round 12 from the original pattern of motif / granny square – i.e the hdc finish to even it all up. 
In the first round though, you've got to straighten this edge to bring all the stitches up to the same level.  
So what I did was work an sc over every dc and trc ; a hdc on every hdc ; trc over every sc.  I then did Rounds 11 & 12.

Fasten off, weave in ends and block as per yarn instructions.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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