APPLE
GRANNY SQUARE
FOOD
SERIES - IN THE ROUND - 34
Welcome
back to my next set of granny squares in the round.
This
series is all food and more yummy food and this is the fourth in this series.
I
am going to try and use the centre round of the granny square as the main idea
for the food we’re creating, whenever possible.
That’s what’s we’re doing here today – the centre round is the apple and
we will have 3D little stem and a set of leaves coming off the top. Cool idea,
huh?
I
have made some interesting food squares .. so keep an eye out for this blog.
As
you may know, I am making these squares to donate to Project Chemo Cancer. Their requirement is for 9” x 9”
squares. So all the squares I am making
here will be of that size. You can make
it to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook. Just adjusting the hook / yarn size, will
change the size of your square.
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This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Abbreviations used :
sc
: single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch
: chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp
: space rep
: Repeat
Stitches used : (Using US terminology)
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Instructions using U.S terminology
As
you know I am making these squares specifically to a size of 9” x 9” and I
found that I managed that easily without too much of a tweak.
I
just worked till Round 10 and got to the size I needed.
So
I worked the first five rounds (using red for our apple today) per pattern,
till I had 60 dc.
I
then changed to white (which is my border colour) and worked per pattern till I
had the required 72 sts ; and the square of the size I needed.
Got
it? So go on ahead and visit the pattern
sheet now.
To get the apple shape :
As
I said before, I worked the first five rounds in red and then changed to white
yarn. Just as I changed colours, we need
to shape the apple. So pass the red yarn around the front of your work and
through the centre of the magic circle (round 1) and pull tight. Just this one
small thing and you will cinch that last round and get a shape. Your work bunches up a bit, but it pulls that
last round and gives it the inimitable shape of the top of an apple.
Attach
white yarn and work Round 6 till you have 72 sts and then work the last 3
rounds as given in the pattern.
For
our 9” x 9” square, I only needed to work till Round 10.
Once
you have completed the square pattern, come back here and we’ll work in the
stem and leaves for our little apple.
Apple stem & leaf :
We
will work the stem first and then work the leaf off the stem.
For the stem : Start with 5
fsc.
Turn
and work 1 sc all the way down the fsc chain. Turn (5).
Now
we will work on the leaf.
For the leaf : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc ;
ch 7.
Turn and sc in the 2nd
ch from hk ;
hdc in the next ch ; dc in the next 3 ch ;
2 dc in the next ch ;
join with a sl-st onto the stem.
Fasten
off and leave a long chain for attachment.
Attach
your leaf / stem onto the centre of the apple.
Decide if you want to attach it
all down flat, or leave the leaf flapping around for a 3D effect.
Sit
back and enjoy the really cute apple you’ve created.
I
used this idea to make a piece, and then folded it in half, but did not attach
the zipper etc… Just made an apple
slice.
I
worked Sarah’s pattern all the way to round 4 (50 sts) and then changed to my
red yarn and worked Round 7. Instead of
working a dc in each st all around, I chose to work a hdc, but it does not
matter which st you choose.
I
kept a long tail of my white yarn to sew down and keep a long tail of your red
yarn too to join this edge in a bit.
Using
my embroidery / tapestry needle, I then embroidered 3 pips (apple seeds) onto
my apple slice using the French knot embroidery stitch.
I
then folded the apple circle in half and neatly joined the edges to make it a
slice, using the red yarn we’d kept earlier.
Fasten
it onto the apple circle using the white yarn and neatly weave in all ends.
At
this point, you can decide if you want to make your slice a little soft and
squishy – in which case you may use a bit of poly-fill. May I suggest that if you use polyfill, make
a small stocking net ball for safety.
What
is a stocking net ball? When stuffing
crochet toys, I suggest stuffing a small piece of stocking net with your
poly-fill stuffing and making a small ball.
So first measure how much net you’d need by holding the net across your
work (that you need stuffed) without stretching. Cut that length and then sew up one
edge. Then stuff with poly-fill and sew
in the other opening as well. It is
safer to do it this way, and if you use the same / similar colour net as the
toy you are stuffing, then it is neater too.
Once you have made as many squares as you want for your blanket, use one of these joining methods for a neat join.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Aren’t
you just thrilled with your cute creation?
Spread
smiles.
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Have a great day and see you soon. ☺
Here are some of my older creations.
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