BANDS OF STEEL JAMAICAN AFGHAN
This pattern
has been chosen by my niece who has just moved into a new apartment. Luckily I was able to get the color choices
almost to the “T” .. why do they say to the “T”.. hmmm..
(If you're still curious, maybe this link may help figure it out?! ;) http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/to-a-t.html)
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The pattern she
chose is this Jamaican afghan and this is the beautiful photograph that got us all excited for this project
So while I have used this pattern, our Indian yarn
thickness seems to be way thinner than the one on the pattern link. So a few notes of the differences.
Materials used :
Today I’ve used ~ 550- 600 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic
yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
embroidery needle
Size : My
finished afghan is ~ 40” x 60”
Skill level :
Easy - Intermediate.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
So using the basic idea of this lovely afghan,
I’ve made a few changes, mainly because of the yarn thickness I’m using
1. I’ve
started with 23 fsc (which equaled 6.5” as specified by the designer). So while I could just follow the pattern
stitch-wise, being lazy, and preferring less ends to weave in, I thought
matching the size was a better bet.
2. I
thought I’d worked the pattern in the same way, alternating colours , but yet
again, I could not make gauge with the sc, so I opted to work hdc rather than
sc in each fsc all the way through.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
3. Yet
again to make this a little easier for me, and also to try to achieve the gauge
needed, I decided to work two rows back n forth in the same yarn. So the fsc row and the next row were in the
light yarn ; then I attached the new darker yarn and worked the next two rows
in the darker colour. So each switch was
made at the same end, and I worked two rows in that colour.
4. In
the last repeat, I did one row of hdc and the last row in sc (to coordinate
with the start of fsc)
5. Finally
I’ve decided to run one row of sc down the two sides as well. So there are two sides that have ended with
sc – the start row and the end row. The
other two sides do not have an end-stitch, so for convenience and ease of
joining, I turned at 90˚ at the end of my last sc row and worked 23 sc down the
side of my little square. Fastened off
at the end, and then re-joined yarn to work 23 sc down the other side of my
square. I now have a little square with
23 sc on all sides. This helps as now we
can put these squares anywhere we need and will have the same number of easy
stitches to work through.
Part 3 : Finishing
Once you have all your squares complete, you can
decide how you want to place them. The
pattern is the same in all our squares and the designer has made it look funky
and different by placing one with stripes facing horizontally and the alternate
one with the stripes going vertically.
The joining is easy, but here are a few ideas
1. Place
all the squares out and look at it from a distance to see if you like the color
combination (if you have several colors) and the pattern it created. I always find looking at it through a camera
lens gives it a better perspective.
2. There
are several join methods for joining the granny squares. Check the links at the
top of this blog and choose the one that suits you best
3. You
can sew the squares in a straight line or using the diagonal method – once
again choosing the method that suits you best.
4. I
would suggest a small border all around.
We have a neat row of sc on all sides, so I’d suggest working at least
one round of dc all around your blanket, working 3 dc in the corners.
5. If
you decide to work a wider border (or anything over one row), you must work 3
dc in each corner stitch. In each of the following rows, the corner
stitch will be the middle stitch of your 3 dc from the earlier row.
6. In
my final border round, just to get a cleaner finish, I’ve worked 5 dc in the corner
stitch will be the middle stitch of your 3 dc from the earlier row.
7. The
most important thing with motifs and squares is the joining and weaving
in of ends. Ensure that you weave in
ends as soon as you’re done to prevent the (seemingly) unending weave-ins. So after completing one square, I usually
weave in the ends, and ensure that when I am joining the squares I neatly
‘hide’ the little end that is sticking out.
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