EM’s ILLUSION THROW
I’ve struggled to get just the right pattern for
this special throw .. for a very special young lady. I started
with a diagonal pattern that I’ve used several times before (for a spectacle
case as well as lovely clutch purses).
And a set of diagonal clutch purses at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2017/04/smashing-diagonal-clutch-purse.html
I then thought I’d make the whole afghan/blanket/throw
in one set of diagonals.
Naah.. Chucked that idea out..
Then thought diagonal granny squares.. nope..
didn’t like that
Then thought C-to-C one big blanket..
nope.. and C-to-C granny squares didn’t work either
You see I wanted a pattern that has
as few ‘holes’ as possible.. interesting “looking” but light!
I’ve eventually decided to work this assymetric
granny square pattern in 2 colors and VOILA! I have designed an illusion
throw. I am not sure if this pattern has
been used this way before, but I love what I have made.
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Come along then.. let’s create magic
together
Materials used :
Today I’ve used ~ 550 gms each two colours of yarn. I have used our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon
4-ply acrylic yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
It does not matter which yarn you use as gauge does
not matter for this pattern. So go ahead – use any yarn with a suitable hook.
Size :
My finished throw is ~ 52” x 74”
Skill level :
Intermediate.
Sizing chart for blankets : https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839582572/
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
Once you have made as many squares as you want for your blanket, use one of these joining methods for a neat join.
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For our pattern, we will work a set of squares
and then join them using the lovely diagonal join.
I am using 2 colors, but you can work in one
colour or as many as you’d like using this pattern.
The beauty of this pattern is that you can make
the squares any size you’d like!
If you want the illusion
effect, I think you should only use two colours.
We use the same pattern for all squares.
The only
difference is that you will start one set of squares with one colour
(Say MC – Main Colour), and then alternate CC and MC ; and end with MC.
For the second set of squares, you
will start with CC and then alternate MC and CC ; and end with CC..
Before you start, you need to decide on a few
things.
a) How
large is your blanket? Check the sizing
chart given at the top of this blog
b) How
large are you making each square?
c) How
many squares are you making?
Once you have these answers, you will make two equal sets of squares – one starting and ending with MC and one starting and ending
with CC
I have made a total of 36 squares which are 9”
square each ; so two sets of 18 squares.
Part 1 : Basic square pattern
For my project, I am going to use two colours
and will just change the colours every two rows.
I have given you two ways to start your project.
I always prefer a neater start and a
simpler one, and have opted for a magic circle start. I have also given you a chain start. Please only work Row 1 once, using
either method.
Same pattern , same number of rows - different start and end colour
For one set of squares
Start Row
1 (Using magic circle) : (with MC) and a magic circle ; work 3
dc in the magic circle. Turn. (3 sts)
OR
Start Row
1 (Using the chain start) : (with MC) and ch 4 ; Turn and work 2
dc in the 4th ch from hk.
Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2 : (with
MC) : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same dc ; dc in the
last dc. Turn. (6 sts)
Change to CC
Row 3 : (with
CC) : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 3 dc. Turn. (10 sts)
Row 4 : (with
CC) : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 5 dc. Turn. (14 sts)
Change to MC
Row 5 : (with
MC) : dc in the 1st 7 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 7 dc. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 6 : (with
MC) : dc in the 1st 9 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 9 dc. Turn. (22 sts)
Continue working repeats of Rows 3 to 6,
increasing 4 sts every row till you get a square of the size you need.
Remember that you
will end this set of squares with MC.
You have one square done.
Before you fasten off,
I suggest you run a round of sc all around.
This will help when you are attaching your squares together.
Stop ! Hold on : Before
you run that round of sc, here are some ideas.
Now I have worked a round of sc using MC for
all my squares, (whether I ended in MC or CC). This gives continuity between squares.
You can work the last round of sc all around each square in either MC or CC.
So decide which colour you want for your sc now! Whatever colour you decide to work that sc round in, remember you will work that colour for all squares if you want the illusion effect.
While working your sc, remember that you will
work 2 sc in each horizontal / vertical bar of the dc and you will work 3 sc
in the corner ch-1 sp.
You should ensure that you have the same
number of stitches on all four sides of your square.
For the second set of squares
Start Row
1 (Using the chain start) : (with CC) and ch 4 ; Turn and work 2
dc in the 4th ch from hk.
Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2 : (with
CC) : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same dc ; dc in the
last dc. Turn. (6 sts)
Change to MC
Row 3 : (with
MC) : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 3 dc. Turn. (10 sts)
Row 4 : (with
MC) : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 5 dc. Turn. (14 sts)
Change to CC
Row 5 : (with
CC) : dc in the 1st 7 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 7 dc. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 6 : (with
CC) : dc in the 1st 9 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in
the last 9 dc. Turn. (22 sts)
Continue working repeats of Rows 3 to 6,
increasing 4 sts every row till you get a square of the size you need.
Remember that you
will end this set of squares with CC.
FINISHING
Once you have all your squares complete, you can
decide how you want to place them. Before
you start sewing it all up, I’d suggest you check out a few combinations and work
the pattern out.
To get the end result I have, you will need to
alternate the squares.
So Square 1 is a MC start square, followed by
Square 2 which will be a CC start square ;
Then followed by Square 2 which will be a CC
start square, followed by Square 2 which will be a CC start square ; so on.
Here are a few ideas I thought up. The diagrams are for positioning only and are not to scale.
The joining is easy, and there are several "how to join granny square" links given at the top of this blog. Before you head off there, here are a few last thoughts..
1. Place
all the squares out and look at it from a distance to see if you like the color
combination (if you have several colors) and the pattern it created. I always find looking at it through a camera
lens gives it a better perspective.
2. There
are several join methods for joining the granny squares. Check the links at the
top of this blog and choose the one that suits you best
3. You
can sew the squares in a straight line or using the diagonal method – once
again choosing the method that suits you best.
4. I
would suggest a small border all around.
We have a neat row of sc on all sides, so I’d suggest working at least
one round of dc all around your blanket, working 3 dc in the corners.
5. If
you decide to work a wider border (or anything over one row), you must work 3
sts in each corner stitch (Remember that the corner stitch is the centre of
the 3-dc set of the earlier row). In each of the following rows, the corner
stitch will be the middle stitch of your 3 dc from the earlier row.
6. In
my final border round, just to get a cleaner finish, I’ve worked 5 dc in the corner
stitch will be the middle stitch of your 3 dc from the earlier row.
7. The
most important thing with motifs and squares is the joining and weaving
in of ends. Ensure that you weave in
ends as soon as you’re done to prevent the (seemingly) unending weave-ins. So after completing one square, I usually
weave in the ends, and ensure that when I am joining the squares I neatly
‘hide’ the little end that is sticking out.
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