Saturday, 30 September 2017

SPOTTED IN SPOTLIGHT – 2


free crochet top pattern, free crochet motif top pattern

SPOTTED IN SPOTLIGHT – 2

Sleeved Irregular motif top


I have made something similar to this in the past but where that had the beautiful motif starting out along one side, this one has it bang centre. 
Check out my “Spotted at Spotlight top”, which is truly a spectacular creation and which is really similar to the inspiration photograph.

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

This is not my original pattern. I have been inspired by this photo and charts that I found, here are my pattern notes on my interpretation & combination of the chart(s) as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton with a 3 – 3.5 mm crochet hook
The reason I have used 2 hooks is to increase size as needed (for around chest) and then use the smaller hook to decrease size (for around waist) to cinch it up.

For Indians : Our lovely Indian White rose and Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn.
Check out yarns online via the link on the top right hand side of this blog that reads : Click here to buy yarns Online

For Non-Indians : The international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Soft knitting cotton, Sullivans (Australia) knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 knitting cottons. 

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

sc : Single crochet                                                      ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                       sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                 hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                         yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                    
trc : Triple / treble crochet

                             
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

We start our project from the bottom up from the centre with the round motif, working around till you get the width needed.  We will then extend for the shoulders, and shape the base of top.  Finally we will add in the sleeves.

With this pattern there is no stitch count.
So how does one make this to fit?  This is what makes it an advanced skill level! 
You need to keep a well-fitting top or a cut out of one for the person you are making this for, and keep checking and mapping it off the top.  
Once you reach the width needed, as mentioned before, start on the shoulders.

For a smaller size, work with a smaller hook / yarn and of course for a larger size you’d need a larger hook and /or yarn.

Let’s work on this and see our creation grow.


Part 1 : Front and back
Make two


Start with a magic circle and work 9 sc in the circle.  Join with a sl-st.

Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Note : If working on a small size, here’s where you can tweak.. use an sc all around.  Remember that all all times when I’m using a hdc, you could use an sc to make it a smaller sized motif. Do also remember that these are just ideas.  I do not know for sure, if this will work for you ;)

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : 3 dc in the 1st dc  ; (sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc  ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc  ; (dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc  and in each dc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 : sc in the 1st dc  ; (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (36 ch-3 sps)

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  (18 ch-5 sps)

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp , 7 dc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
(sk next sc, 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 11 : sl-st past the 1st 2 dc , sc in the next dc ;
(ch 17, sk next dc, sc in the next dc) ;
*sl-st in the next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.  (18 ch-17 sps)
 the following round, we will work a large number of sts in the ch-17 sp. 
Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-17 sp ,
(1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 22 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same ch-17 sp ;
*sk next 2 sl-sts and sc in the next st , rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (18 spokes)

In the following round, we are going to join our spokes together. 

Round 13 : sl-st past the 1st 5 sts [i.e 1 sc, 1 hdc and 3 dc], trc in the next dc ;
*ch 5, sk next  4 dc , sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc, trc in the next dc ; sk next 10 sts (i.e 3 dc, hdc and sc from this spoke and 1 sc, hdc and 3 dc from next spoke), trc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

From our following round, we will use a “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Note : Here is yet another place where you can increase length and/or width of your top.  Work a trc instead of dc to increase length, and work a ch-2 sp to increase width in all of your “V”-sts.

Round 14 : “V”-st in the 1st trc ;
*(ch 3, “V”-st in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next trc, “V”-st in the next trc ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next trc* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
Note : I found that working a “V”-st in the trc was one too many “V”-sts, so have not worked it. 

Rounds 15 & 16 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 17 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ch-sp , 5 dc in the same 1st ch-sp ;
5 dc in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 18 : sl-st past the 1st 2 dc , “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Rounds 19 & 20 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 



We’ve reached really close to the end of our length, so here’s what you need to measure.
1.       Fold the circle you’ve made in half.  Fold your top / draft in half.  Place the top of the folded crochet piece in such a way that the tip of the crochet circle is at the tip of the folded neck.  Check the diagram below which is not to scale.
2.     The length you get (along the fold) is almost the length of the top.  You can also see the width of the top. 
3.     If you need more along the length/width, repeat Round 20 till you have the size needed.  Remember while increasing length, you are increasing width too.

Round 21 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ch-sp , 9 dc in the same 1st ch-sp ;
9 dc in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

1.       We will be working on the border now, so back to draft.  Fold and place crochet circle, and mark out the corner for the neckline (point where it shapes to go up to the shoulder)
2.     We will work our border from the bottom of top all the way to the shoulder /neck point , and it is worked along a semicircle. 
3.     This means we will work from bottom side all the way to top neck/shoulder, and we’ll work from marker to marker.
4.     Your marker is placed at the 1st dc of the 9-dc set at the start end, and at the last dc of the 9-dc set along the neck end.  Got it?  Let’s get this done.

In the last section of this motif, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk).  For a “how to work a picot”, check the top of this blog

Row 22 : (Turn and working on the wrong side of work) :
sc in the 1st 4 sts, sc + picot in the next st ;
*sc in the next 8 sts ; sc + picot in the next st* ;
rep *to* till the marked st ;
ending with sc + picot ; sc in the next 4 sts.  Turn.

You are now at the neck marker.  We will work down back to the bottom side marked with our final border row.

Our border row is made up of motifs worked continuously.  Each motif is worked in a set of 3 rows (per motif). 
We will complete one motif at a time, and then move on to the next motif. 
We will therefore have only one Row 23, but have 3 / 4 parts to the instructions therein.

Just to add to the complications ;), the first motif is worked slightly differently from all other motifs. 
Remember that we will work only one motif in each 9-dc set, and we will start each motif in the 2nd st after the picot.

Row 23 - 1 : (Turn and working on the right side of work) :
sc in the 1st dc ; ch 10 , sc in the 2nd st after picot ; Turn ;
Row 23 - 2 : (Turn and working on the wrong side of work) :
(12 dc , 1 hdc, 1 sc) all in the ch-10 sp ;  Turn ;
Row 23 - 3 : (Turn and working on the right side of work) :
dc in the 1st st , (sk next dc, ch 2 + picot, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next 2nd st after picot in the next 9-dc set ;

We’ve finished the first motif.   

The next set of motifs are slightly different.
Row 23 - A : (Turn and working on the wrong side of work) :
ch 10 , sk next 2 picots , sc in the next picot ; Turn ;
Row 23 - B : (Turn and working on the right side of work) :
(12 dc , 1 hdc, 1 sc) all in the ch-10 sp ;  Turn ;
Row 23 - C : (Turn and working on the wrong side of work) :
ch 1, sk sc , dc in the next hdc ; (ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5  times ; Turn ;
Row 23 - D : (Turn and working on the right side of work) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*sc + picot + sc all in the same ch-2 sp ;  sc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* 5 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next 2nd st after picot in the next 9-dc set ;

We’ve finished the next motif.   

Continue with instructions Row 23 A to C for all the motifs, till you reach the
last 9-dc set.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finish off this border row, and we will meet again for the shoulders / sides and sleeves.



Part 2 : Shoulders and sides


Once you have completed the border, we will be working on our shoulder straps and sides.  Re-attach the yarn in the picot closest to the neckline (if you are not already at that point)

For convenience, I am going to re-number our rows from 1.
You need to decide if you want to extend on the sides or not.  We do need to extend straps up to the shoulders.
So what we need to do is run a row of ch-3 sps evenly across the picots of the last row.  I am only going to extend the shoulder straps, so decide and work accordingly.

So first off, place your work on the draft or sample top and see how much you need to increase along the sides (if at all).
You will then place a marker on the 1st and last points and then run a row of ch-3 sps evenly.

Row 1 : sc in the picot ;
*ch 3, sc in the next picot* ;
rep *to* once ;
then (ch 3, and sc evenly in the next space/stitch) ;
rep (to) till the 2nd marker.  Turn.

Our “V”-st for this section will be (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc)
Note : Yet again, increase or reduce the ch-3 sps as needed.

Rew 2 : dc in the 1st st ; “V”-st in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, sc in The next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Rep row 2 till you get the width needed.

Then fasten off and re-attach yarn at the neckline point for the shoulder strap. 
If you finish at the neckline point, do not fasten off, but just continue for the shoulder strap.

For the shoulder, you will work the same “V”-st but just side to side for the width of the shoulder.
Fasten off when you reach the shoulder level.

Re-attach yarn for the other side of the shoulder and repeat what you have worked along the 1st shoulder.  You will have more rows of “V”-st along one shoulder. Fasten off when you reach the same shoulder level as 1st side.

Oh, how do you decide where you want the 2nd shoulder strap? Once again, get  back to your draft / measurement top and place markers. OR decide how deep and wide you want your neckline.  (I did both J )

We have successfully completed one side of this lovely top.  Work these instructions for the other side as well.
Once both sides are done, use one of the “joining instructions” given at the top of this blog to attach the shoulders and sides.  Remember one side attaches all the way down (the straight side), and the other one is a semi circle which does not attach all the way down.  For this side, you will once again need to place it on the draft / measurement top and decide your length.  Place a marker at that point and attach sides.

Once you have done that, we will work on the armhole / sleeves together.



Part 3 : Sleeves


For our sleeves we will use a “V”-st all through. 
Our “V”-st will be (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc).
I am sure I do not need to add that you will adjust the number of chain in between the dc’s to increase or decrease the width of your “V”-st.
To start, let us run a round of ch-3 sps all around the armhole. 
We will just go around the armhole evenly spacing out the ch-3 sps + sc, ensuring that you have an even number of ch-3 sps all around.
Re-attach your yarn at the under arm part of armhole. 

sc in the same point/stitch , (ch 3, and sc in the next st evenly spaced out) ; rep (to) evenly all around the armhole, and join with ch-3 to the 1st sc.

Make a note of how many ch-3 sps / sc you have for this armhole to repeat it for the 2nd armhole.

Round 1 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; “V”-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Round 2 till you have the length needed.

Note : To either increase the width of your round, increase the ch-sp for the “V”-st ; add a ch-1 between “V”-sts or use a larger hook after a few rounds.

Fasten off when you are at the final length. 
Repeat instructions for the 2nd sleeve too.

Check finishing instructions before you fasten off.


Part 4 : Finishing
Sleeve ends : Optional : You could run a row of sc all around the last round of sleeve for a neat finish.  You could also add in a row of picot in the middle of the “V”-st all around. 

Neckline : We will just go around the neckline evenly spacing out the ch-3 sps + sc all around.  Re-attach your yarn at the corner of your neckline, and work a round of ch-3 sps like you did for the armhole. 

Round 1 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note :  Remember you can adjust the ch-3 sp (work ch-1 or ch-2 sp instead) depending on your armhole round and how spaced out you want this to be.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And you are DONE with this awesome creation.
Block your beautiful work before showing it off on social media.  Remember to tag me when you do, as I’d love to see this crazy gorgeousness ;)

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Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too