Monday, 8 February 2016



 Yet another pattern that I just could not resist and of course seems like you agree too, as here we are .. you and I are back working on this together.  So while this is not a 'true' total one-piece bolero, it's a neat one piece construction for the bottom part.. and I loved how that worked out.

This is not my original pattern. I found this photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our superb Indian Modi knitting cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                       dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                              ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                               rep : Repeat

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We work our vest in two pieces.  One piece is worked from the armhole down and the other part is worked armhole to shoulders.

The unusual construction of this vest is what seems challenging and fun here.  So for this vest, we will work the lower half in one piece, starting with one front end of the vest, working through the back and then to the other front end of the vest. This part is worked in pattern, as a rectangular piece, and we will then work the top part of the vest on top of this bit.
Seem simple enough – so let’s get started.

Now this rectangular piece is worked depending on the (vertical) length you want for your vest from the armhole down to the length intended for your vest.

Start with fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 (length needed from armhole to end of vest). 

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
*(ch 2, sk  next 2 fsc , dc 2-tog in the next fsc) ; 
[ch 2, sk  next 2 fsc , dc in the next fsc] ; ch 5, sk next 5 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1stdc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Once you’ve reached the width (or round waist / bust) measure you need for your rectangle, finish off with a row of dc.  Ensure before you finish that your last row is the same pattern as the first row.

Last row : sc in the 1st dc ; (dc in each ch ; dc in each dc 2-tog) all the way to the end.  Turn.

So for the yoke of our top, we will be working along one of the sides of the rectangle just made, and we will work the same pattern upwards to the shoulders / neck.  The pattern will *look* different as now the dc 2-tog will be facing a different direction and that is what gives this pattern the unusual look.

Now what we need to do is mark the two sides for our vest.
Fold the rectangle that you’ve made in such a way that the two open sides come together in front, and you can then mark the two points for the sides / armholes. 
We should we skip one pattern repeat on either side of our folded rectangle, and place a marker (or four markers) that will denote the points for the sides we will be working with.

The back is worked in a rectangle, with no decrease on either armhole or shoulder / back of neck. There is a neat decrease for both sides of the front to give a neat “V”-shaped neckline.

For convenience, I am re-numbering this section, so please do not confuse these instructions with those that have come before.

We are at one corner of the rectangle.  We will turn our work and start working along the length of our rectangle (the longer portion of it) for the first row of our yoke.
In this first foundation row of the yoke, we will be working along the horizontal bars of the stitches made, and the spaces between two horizontal bars.

Our pattern repeat still stands at 6 + 1, so ensure that you have this count at the end of the foundation row.

Foundation row :  sc in the 1st st ; (2 sc in the horizontal bar of the next dc ; sc in the st between 2 horizontal bars ; 2 sc in the next dc 2-tog horizontal bar ; sc in the st between 2 horizontal bars) ; rep (to) all the way to the end.  Turn.

We will now work one side of our Front Yoke till the first marker placed.  Please note that the pattern repeat *to* may not work for all of us as per the written instructions, mainly because we will be dividing differently for the armhole etc.  However, as you have done this pattern repeat several times already, you know it , and need to ensure that you work the repeats in a way that suits you best.  The instructions below are for reference only.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; 
*(ch 2, sk  next 2 sc , dc 2-tog in the next sc) ; 
[ch 2, sk  next 2 sc , dc in the next sc] ; ch 5, sk next 5 sc, dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till marker .  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1stdc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Yet again our pattern repeat will be Rows 2 and 3. 
So calculations : Decide how deep you want your neckline, and work only till that point, ensuring that you end at the front lapel (open) portion of your vest for the first decrease.
As mentioned before, the decreases are only along the neckline border.  Both front and back armhole(s) will be worked straight, without decrease.

With each decrease on the open lapel side, we will work till halfway down the first pattern bit.  Now we have two pattern bits.. one is a ch-5 sp and one is a (ch-2, dc 2-tog, ch-2) set.  The centres of these sets will be the dc 2-tog and centre of the ch-5 sp.

What we’re attempting to do is to get a neat gradual “V”-shaped neckline ensuring that you only decrease till you get the shoulder width needed.
To get an even “V” shape, we will decrease these 3 sts every row.

So yet again, these instructions are only for reference.

I’d suggest that you work out your shoulder width from the end of the armhole, place a marker, and then work the “V”-shape for your neck.

Decrease Row 1 : skipping the 1stdc , st-st all the way to the centre of the ch-5 sp or the dc 2-tog ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Decrease Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc in the next dc]* ; 
rep *to* till dc before end ; dc in that last dc.  Turn.

Rep Decrease Rows 1 & 2 till you reach the shoulder.
Fasten off and leave a tail to attach shoulder.

Re-attach yarn at the other front lapel end, and mirror these instructions for the other front.

For the back, we will re-attach the yarn at the marker for the back, and work the pattern without decrease between the two markers for the back.

Once you’ve completed both front halves as well as the back, attach the shoulders.

We will now work the cute little sleeve bit.

Sleeve :

These are little cap-like sleeves that are basically for the top bit of the arm.  

However as this is a general write up, here’s what I’d suggest.  The pattern is a simple repeat that we’ve worked through the whole top, so you know that.. start with the pattern as per the instructions below, pop it onto your arm / vest and see how it works out – else add (pattern repeat) stitches on either side to make up the length/width desired.

For the sleeve, we will start from the bottom of the sleeve and work our way up to the armhole, decreasing both sides to give it the easy curve needed.

I am writing the pattern out as charted.

Start with 97 fsc (Our stitch count is 6 + 1 , and I got 16 pattern repeats with 97 fsc)

From our very first row, we start with decreases to get the curved shape for the arm.

As we’re reducing both ends, one end will need a 5 st finish, which is our dtr (double treble).
How to do a double treble crochet (dtr) :

The other way to do this is to do 5 ch and a sc in the last st, and then you sl-st through that last set of 5-ch to come to the 1st dc 2-tog for the next decrease and curved edging.
So choose whichever suits you, but I’m writing it with the dtr finish.  

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; ch 5, sk next 5 fsc, dc 2-tog in the next fsc ; 
(ch 5, sk  next 5 fsc , dc 2-tog in the next fsc) ; 
rep (to) till last 6 fsc ; sk next 5 fsc, dtr in the last fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc 2-tog ; 
(ch 5, dc 2-tog in the next dc 2-tog) ; 
rep (to) till last the 2nd last dc 2-tog ; dtr in the last dc 2-tog.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you have about 5 dc 2-tog on the last row, which will be the top of the armhole.
You now have a neatly curved sleeve.
The last row will be the top and the foundation row is the part that goes around the arm.

Fasten off.

To attach the sleeves on, I’d suggest that you first fold the sleeve and mark the centre point. Pin this centre point to the shoulder line, and then neatly pin the curved portion of the sleeve along the sides of the armhole till the sides of your top.
Once pinned down, attach the sleeve to the top, and we’re done with it.

Border :
For the border, we will go back to that foundation fsc row and we will work one continuous round from one side of the front, across the back down the other side of the front.  We will also do the similar border along the armhole.
Just for convenience, I suggest you run a round of sc all around the front and back of your garment.

Border Row  : sc in the 1st st ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc 2-tog in the next st ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J

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