Sweet Nothings Crochet: AMAIRA’s JACKET & HEADWEAR

AMAIRA’s JACKET & HEADWEAR

Just yesterday I shared a cute little girls dress (Pattern at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/11/amairas-shelled-dress-with-matching.html) and after I’d made that dress, I thought it could do with a little something more.. and this is what I’ve come up with.

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Please remember that as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my wordsy explanations. After all, I am taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839225709/

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 1.5 skeins of Oswal 4-ply acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Part 1 : Jacket

In keeping with the pattern of the dress, I thought I’d work in a plain-ish jacket and then add the shelled pattern for the border trim.

So here are two ideas.. You could work the pattern as I have OR you could work the shelled pattern all through. If you decide to work the shelled pattern, you will just work the first fsc row in multiples of 7 and then work all the way to the shoulders in a straight finish.

For the sleeves, I’d then suggest you work two rectangles that are about the length of the arm, and neatly attach them at the shoulders.

However, I’m not doing that .. so come along and let’s work this simple jacket together.

For the jacket I am going to work in one piece for the fronts and back, and then add in the sleeves.

For the chest sizing, may I suggest you use this handy chart and start with foundation single crochet : https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start with as many fsc as needed on the chart for the child you’re making this for. Turn.

So what does this mean? Well, I’m making my jacket for a 18-24 month old, so will use this chart and start with 66 fsc.

Now just for convenience, I will use these numbers (66 fsc) to tell you how to work the corner pattern.. but this does not mean you can’t use it for any other size. Use the idea here to adapt it to your size with the numbers given for your size. Got it? Great.

Before we start on our next row, we will need to mark off the four corners. So per my chart for my size I will place markers at the 10^th st ; then count off 13 sts and place 2^nd marker ; then count off 20 sts and place 3^rd marker ; finally count off 13 sts again for the final 4^th marker.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc till the 1^st marker , 2 dc in the marked fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in the next fsc ;

dc in each fsc till the next marker, 2 dc in the marked fsc* ;

rep *to* all around till end ;

1 dc in the last fsc. Turn.

You can now put your markers away, as the ch-2 sps in the corners will be your new corners.

Now once again its “Decision Time” as here are ideas for the pattern of your jacket.

You can either work ch-sps every alternate row, OR you can work in all dc all through. I am going to write it with the ch-sp which is a tiny "leeetle" pattern that I like, but you go with your creativity and flow.

If you decide not to do the ch-sp, then you just ignore the sk st bit and work a dc in each st till the corners. Simple enough, right?

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*(ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the 1^st corner sp ;

[dc ; ch 2, dc] in the corner sp* ;

rep*to* all around dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the 1^st corner sp ;

[dc ; ch 2, dc] in the corner sp* ;

rep*to* all around till the end. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you have the yoke size needed.

So calculations and how much is “needed” :

After you’ve worked a few rows, you need to fold your work from the shoulders down, and go back to the chart to see how many inches are suggested. In my case, I will work till my shoulders are 7.75 cm and the length from shoulder to bottom of yoke is 10.5 cm or so.

Now these are rough numbers and you can decide how far down you need to work. Remember though that you need to get the armhole measure, because after a bit, we will join the two corners (each side)

and then work in one continuous row from front to back ; around the back and then back to the front again.

Just so you have an idea of how we’re going to join the corners, take a quick look at this picture and see how we’re going to fold from the shoulders, then Corners 1 & 2 will be joined at the corner ch-sp to get the 1^st armhole ; and then Corners 3 & 4 will be joined at that corner ch-sp to get the 2^nd armhole.

So off you go and work your pattern rep of Rows 2 & 3 for the yoke size / armhole measure needed.

Now we have decisions again !

So you’re at the armhole level. You need to decide if you are going to work the ch-sp pattern all the way down the jacket and into the arms.. OR you’re going to work in each dc all the way through and have no pattern along the arms either.

Either way, I will be working the little shelled pattern at the ends of the sleeve and all along the bottom plus front plackets of the jacket.

Secondly, joining at the armholes :

So as I said before Corners 1 & 2 will be the 1^st armhole.

So depending on whether you are working the pattern or not, you will work in such a way that you will join the two corners together and form an armhole opening for the 1^st armhole, then work the back through till Corners 3 & 4, which will be then joined to form the 2^nd armhole.

Once you’re done joining the armholes, and decided if you’re using the pattern or not, all you need to do is continue working in one continuous row from the front, around the back, and then to the second part of the front till the front placket – till you have the jacket of the length needed. Once you have the length, fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeve ideas : For the sleeve, you will re-attach your yarn at the bottom of the armhole, and then work the pattern that you have worked for the jacket front & back.

What length will you work for the sleeve? We will be working four rows of the pattern for the end of the sleeve, so measure how many inches make up your four rows, and you will work that much less for the sleeve.

IF you are working this shelled pattern, then you will also need to ensure that you have the stitch count in multiples of 7

For the shelled pattern border work Rows 1 – 4 from the sleeve pattern.

IF you decide to work the picot ending, then you will work Rows 1 – 3 of the Sleeve pattern and then Round 24 from the Skirt pattern.

Front placket & back of the neck ideas : For the sleeve, you will re-attach your yarn at the front bottom part of the placket and work in one continuous movement for the placket and back of the neck.

Once again “Decision Time”. What pattern would you like to use? We have two patterns for the edging. One is the one you’ve just used for the belt and one you’ve used for the end of the sleeve. So check the stitch count repeat you need, and start on the pattern as per the instructions.

Part 2 : Turban hat

For the next part of our creation, my client chose this pattern, with this cute photograph that was so irresistible and cute https://www.madhooker.com/baby-turban-hat-with-a-bow/

Just a quick suggestion – please check the chart here for head circumference as you work on your own hat. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/

Part 3 : Headband & tic-tacs

crochet headband, crochet tic tac, crochet headwear

For the final part of our creation, let’s throw in a few headwear pieces.

For the headband, visit https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/10/9-more-headbands-for-charity.html

For the tic-tac clips, visit https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/10/10-tic-tac-clips-for-charity.html

Have a fun creative time.

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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go