Welcome to the Sweet Nothings Crochet blog for free crochet patterns with my original designs and creations. :)
Over the years, I've found that there are a lot of free charts available on the net, so as I make the project off that chart, I write down my notes and share them here on my blog. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for stopping by.
Please remember that
as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my
wordsy explanations. After all, I am
taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)
And as we’re making requests, may I request you
to link my blog when you make your project. I feel horrid saying this, but there are many
who have used the patterns freely given here, and not given any credit to the
blog that has given them this pattern.
Come on guys.. it ain’t that much work to give credit and link the blog
now, is it?
It’s worse when someone says “taken this from
…(where ever they’ve taken the pattern from.. not just my blog I mean)” and not
taking the trouble of giving the proper link(s).
You got a free pattern ..
Pay It Forward ! Share away and add my blog link J
Chainless dc start :
Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this
lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory
video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this
start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start. However, all instructions are given assuming
that you’re using this chainless dc start.
In keeping with the pattern of the dress, I
thought I’d work in a plain-ish jacket and then add the shelled pattern for the
So here are two ideas.. You could work the
pattern as I have OR you could work the shelled pattern all through. If you decide to work the shelled pattern,
you will just work the first fsc row in multiples of 7 and then work all
the way to the shoulders in a straight finish.
For the sleeves, I’d then suggest you work two rectangles that are about
the length of the arm, and neatly attach them at the shoulders.
However, I’m not doing that .. so come along and
let’s work this simple jacket together.
For the jacket I am going to work in one piece
for the fronts and back, and then add in the sleeves.
Start with as
many fsc as needed on the chart for the child you’re making this
So what does this mean? Well, I’m making my
jacket for a 18-24 month old, so will use this chart and start with 66 fsc.
Now just for convenience, I will use
these numbers (66 fsc) to tell you how to work the corner pattern.. but this
does not mean you can’t use it for any other size. Use the idea here to
adapt it to your size with the numbers given for your size. Got it? Great.
Before we start on our next row, we will need to
mark off the four corners. So per my
chart for my size I will place markers at the 10th st ; then
count off 13 sts and place 2nd marker ; then count off 20 sts and
place 3rd marker ; finally count off 13 sts again for the final 4th
Row 1 :dc
in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till the 1st marker , 2 dc
in the marked fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in the next fsc ; dc in each fsc till the next
marker, 2 dc in the marked fsc* ; rep *to* all around till end ; 1 dc in the
last fsc. Turn.
You can now put your markers away, as the ch-2
sps in the corners will be your new corners.
Now once again its “Decision Time” as here are
ideas for the pattern of your jacket.
You can either work ch-sps every alternate row, OR you can work in all dc all
through. I am going to write it with the
ch-sp which is a tiny "leeetle" pattern that I like, but you go with your
creativity and flow.
If you decide not to do the ch-sp, then you just
ignore the sk st bit and work a dc in each st till the corners. Simple enough,
Row 2 :dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;*(ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) ; rep (to)
till the 1st corner sp ; [dc ; ch 2, dc] in the corner sp* ; rep*to*
all around dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 3 :dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;*(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ; rep
(to) till the 1st corner sp ; [dc ; ch 2, dc] in the corner sp* ;
rep*to* all around till the end.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you have the yoke size
So calculations and how much is “needed”
: After you’ve worked a few rows, you need to fold your work from the shoulders
down, and go back to the chart to see how many inches are suggested. In my case, I will work till my
shoulders are 7.75 cm and the length from shoulder to bottom of yoke is 10.5 cm
or so. Now these are rough numbers and
you can decide how far down you need to work.
Remember though that you need to get the armhole measure, because
after a bit, we will join the two corners (each side)
and then work in one
continuous row from front to back ; around the back and then back to the front
Just so you have an idea of how we’re going to
join the corners, take a quick look at this picture and see how we’re going to fold from the
shoulders, then Corners 1 & 2 will be joined at the corner ch-sp to get the
1st armhole ; and then Corners 3 & 4 will be joined at that
corner ch-sp to get the 2nd armhole.
So off you go and work your pattern rep of Rows
2 & 3 for the yoke size / armhole measure needed.
Now we have decisions again !
So you’re at the armhole level. You need to decide if you are going to work
the ch-sp pattern all the way down the jacket and into the arms.. OR you’re
going to work in each dc all the way through and have no pattern along the arms
Either way, I will be working the little shelled
pattern at the ends of the sleeve and all along the bottom plus front plackets
of the jacket.
Secondly, joining at the armholes : So as I said before Corners 1 & 2 will be
the 1st armhole. So depending
on whether you are working the pattern or not, you will work in such a way that
you will join the two corners together and form an armhole opening for the 1st
armhole, then work the back through till Corners 3 & 4, which will be then
joined to form the 2nd armhole.
Once you’re done joining the armholes, and
decided if you’re using the pattern or not, all you need to do is continue
working in one continuous row from the front, around the back, and then to the
second part of the front till the front placket – till you have the jacket of
the length needed. Once you have the
length, fasten off and weave in ends.
Sleeve ideas :
For the sleeve, you will re-attach your yarn at the bottom of the armhole, and
then work the pattern that you have worked for the jacket front &
What length will you work for the sleeve?
We will be working four rows of the pattern for the end of the sleeve, so
measure how many inches make up your four rows, and you will work that much
less for the sleeve.
IF you are working this shelled pattern, then
you will also need to ensure that you have the pattern stitch count of 7
For the shelled pattern border
work Rows 1 – 4 from the sleeve pattern.
IF you decide to work the picot ending, then you
will work Rows 1 – 3 of the Sleeve pattern and then Round 24 from the Skirt
Front placket & back
of the neck ideas : For the sleeve, you will re-attach
your yarn at the front bottom part of the placket and work in one continuous
movement for the placket and back of the neck.
Once again “Decision Time”. What pattern would you like to use? We have
two patterns for the edging. One is the
one you’ve just used for the belt and one you’ve used for the end of the
sleeve. So check the stitch count repeat
you need, and start on the pattern as per the instructions.
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I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and
link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.
is quite sad that I have seen projects made using my pattern, but no
credit linked to my blog. It really does
not cost you to link my blog, but it pays me – appreciation and encouragement,
if nothing else… so go ahead, and do your bit, will you? Thanks.