Friday, 21 November 2014

DIAGONAL SHELLED VEST

free crochet vest pattern, free crochet shelled vest pattern

free crochet vest pattern, free crochet shelled vest pattern
DIAGONAL SHELLED VEST

Diagonals.. and shells.. what a superb combination! How can one resist this, right?  So I didn’t even bother resisting!  When this pattern dropped onto my lap last week, I just knew it was a ‘to-be-done’ pattern!! So here we are…  J

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

This pattern starts at the waist and calculating the width (around waist / chest) measurements, you work all the way up to the armholes.  There you decrease for the armholes and neckline and voila! You’re done!.  The back portion is simpler as the pattern is only on the front!  Now while all this sound pretty simple, there are a few complications thrown into the mix.. just to jazz it up and the project .. so be ready for a bit of a roller coaster ride. It’ll totally be worth it!

I have a few superb bolero / vest patterns already written up.. and just in case you want a dekho at some of those free patterns … here you go

Materials used : Stylecraft Baby 4-ply yarn  ~ 200 gms , with a 4 mm crochet hook
For Indian yarn users : Stylecraft Baby 4-ply yarn is somewhat similar to our Vardhaman Baby soft &/or Vardhaman Millenium.  This project can also be made in Anchor knitting cotton but the gauge will differ. All you will then need to do is ensure you get the width and length needed to start and work the pattern accordingly.

Size made : 32-34”
Gauge : One shell (across) = 0.7” x (high) = 0.5”

Stitches used :

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

fpsc : Front Post Single Crochet : In this pattern, there is a new stitch to bring out the shelled pattern.  If you’ve used front post stitches before, this one is not new for you.  The usual front post stitch used is a double crochet – so we use it with an sc in the same way. Video link below.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
fpsc : Front Post Single Crochet                          trc : Treble Crochet
trc 3-tog : Treble Crochet 3-together              trc 2-tog : Treble Crochet 2-together

                                   
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

PART 1 : FRONT (Make two)

We start with the left front.  To make the right front, you do the mirror image of this pattern.

Start with 34 fsc (pattern is in multiples of 15 + 4)

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

So we’ve finished our first row of shells.  Our next row of shells will move one ch-3 sp.  So let’s see how we get that done.

 Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 7 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ending with the 5 dc ; dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 9 : sc in the 1st dc ; fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc  ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 11 : sc in the 1st dc ; *ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

So you’ve probably now figured how our shells are moving diagonally.  
The shells are separated by three ch-3 sps, and every fourth row there’ll be one added from the end.  I’ll take you through a few more rows and then we can go off and work it till our armholes.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 13 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 1, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st sc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 15 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*rep (to) once ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; rep (to) 2 times* ; 
rep from *to* till end ;  
ending with one rep of (to) and then the last ch 3 and sc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 6 – 15 till your project reaches length needed till armhole ; ending with a Row 6.

(I started my armhole decreases after two repeats, with length of ~ 14.5”.  As you’ll see from pattern, it is really simple now.. you just continue with the shelled patterns till completion, but do not start any new shells .. cool, right? What a smart designer .. hat’s off!!)


PART 2 : ARMHOLES
Armhole decrease row 1 : 
[sc in 1st sc ; sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc ; 2 sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 7)

Armhole decrease row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ;  2 sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
(This is part of Row 8)

Armhole decrease row 3 : sl st in 1st 2 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ; 
ch 1, fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc  ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 9)

Armhole decrease row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 4 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 5 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 6 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 3 times.  Turn.

Armhole row 7 : dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 8 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) once ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3 , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 9 : (Neckline decrease row) : sc in the 1st sc ; 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc ; 
ch 1, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 10 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 11 : dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Great so we’re done with our shelled patterns and diagonals.. from  now on till the shoulder line, we’re just going to do our ch-3 patterns.. and we’re almost done with one part of your vest !! Yaay.. that was quick, was it not? J

Next row : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times, ch 1, sc in last dc. Turn.

Next row : dc in the 1st  sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in last dc.

Rep the last 2 rows till your project is of the right length – your armholes are the right size and the neckline fits too.



Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Do a mirror image of this front for the the right hand side of your work.

The back is really easy. It’s all ch-3 sps all through. 

Tip : If you are planning on using a border (as I have) along the front plackets, then do this border first, and recalculate the width of the front before starting on the back. I say this, as the placket adds to the width of your project.

PART 3 : BACK

Start with double the number of fsc for the front using the same multiples count.  
I say "double the number" as we had two front pieces and only one back - so bascially  you are working with half waist measure here.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; *ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in last sc.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in last dc.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole point for the front.  Follow the decrease for the armhole as for front.  The designer has not reduced anything along the neckline, but if you so decide, around the last 2 rows from end, you could divide your work in half, count off the a few ch-3 sps evenly from centre and not work on them – so you get a little bit of a neckline along the back. Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Border : There are two borders in this pattern.  The simple one that goes around the armholes and neckline and down the front placket is a hdc or dc evenly spread all around.  You would, of course, first join your sides and shoulder blades and then work the hdc or dc around the armhole and neckline.
The 2nd border is a little floral border across the bottom and I give you instructions for the same – go ahead and have fun with that J

PART 4 : FLORAL BORDER :

For this border we use the double treble and for a quick refreshed on how to get this done, see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ehv1Defp-U

So we make our floral border and then we attach it onto our vest.  If you decide (as I have) to attach it along the placket of your vest, may I suggest that you first make a row of sc all along the front placket(s) of your vest, in multiples of 10 (which is our motif pattern repeat).  If you are working this along the base of the vest, we already have our fsc row there – so we can figure out how to get that to work for us later. 
Remember the counts there were not 10’s.. so there may be a small re-calculation required.

For the motif, the designer has used a double treble as well as the double treble together.
The double treble together is “similar” to a treble tog – just that the number of loops that go around the hook, and number of times you pull that loop through change.  We have three double trebles worked together to form one double treble-tog. (A double treble is five loops around hook)
Just for the record, I think a treble stitch here would work just as well. My border with the treble stitch is about 2.5" wide (measured across diameter of motif)

The designer has made this floral motif in a one piece – so no joints and attachments ! Yaay!  But the explanation is a bit complicated. The chart below should help. It’s not in English.. but you can see 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. so those are our row counts.

Our stitch repeat here is 10.  So let’s start making a long chain in multiples of 10 (to fit the length/width you wish to use your border along).

So before we head off.. quick explanation of how we’re achieving the first half of our flower. 

In Row 1, we’re going to make four petals of our flower all in one chain, then move onto the next four petals of the next flower (which will once again all be in the same ch). Photos below.
Row 2 completes the last 2 petals of our flower.
So please visualize this before you start – it’ll make it that much simpler to understand.


Row 1 : sk the 1st 4 ch, trc 2-tog tog in the 5th ch (so the ch 4 + trc 2-tog = 1 trc 3-tog) ; 
(ch 5, trc 3-tog in same 5th ch) ;  rep (to) once ;   
[ch 5, trc 2-tog tog in the same 5th ch and then sk 4 ch and sl-st in the next ch] ;
*sk next 4 ch, trc 2-tog in the next ch ; rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.





Now in this row, we’re going to complete the last 2 petals of our flower.  You will notice that there is a really clear ‘centre’ to our flower.  It is the ch where all your trc-togs have come in.  So that is the centre that we will use for the last 2 petals.  The ‘corner’ referred to will be the end of the flower, or the sc that joins 2 flowers together.  Right, so moving on..

Row 2 : *ch 3, trc 3-tog in the centre of the flower ; 
ch 5, trc 3-tog in the centre of same flower ; ch 3, sc in the next sc* 
(which is the corner of this flower and the next) ; 
rep from *to* all the way to the end.  Turn.

Our last row is tricky as we’re going to join the long row of flowers onto the main work.   First off, check that the right side of the flowers face the right side of your work.  Now we’re going to attach the flower with sc’s along the front plackets of your work. There is no way to explain how to get this done.. just work your sc’s evenly along the edge of your vest.  Once again, please look at the chart below as you follow the written instructions.


Row 3 trc in the 1st st ; 5 sc along the border of your vest ; 
sk 1st ch-3 sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ; 
5 sc along the border your vest ; sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc ;
*5 sc along the border of your vest ; 
sk next ch-3 sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ; 
5 sc along the border your vest ; 
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc* ; 
rep from *to* till end. 

One side border done. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep this border along the other front placket and/or the bottom of the vest as well.
If want to do it along the bottom of the vest though, you will need to do the back first, join the sides and then do one continuous border along the bottom.  J

Once you’re all done, block as per yarn instructions and wear your creation.

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I have some similar projects already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go