Welcome to the Sweet Nothings Crochet blog for free crochet patterns with my original designs and creations. :)
Over the years, I've found that there are a lot of free charts available on the net, so as I make the project off that chart, I write down my notes and share them here on my blog. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for stopping by.
Friday, 17 November 2017
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN TOP
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN TOP
to Sweet Nothings Crochet free blogs.
I’ve made this very same pattern as a skirt not too long ago. This is the same pattern, turned upside down
– hence the name ;) ‘)
And inspired by
these photos, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used
~ 150 gms of the lovely All Seasons Hobby India acrylic yarn with a 3 mm
For Indians : Our lovely
Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good
substitute. I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top
right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : The other
international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting
cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting
: Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
: This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double
crochet stitches. This makes your whole
project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree! If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder
why you never used this start before !
Chainless dc start :
Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this
lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory
video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ . In case you are unhappy with this
start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start. However, all instructions are given assuming
that you’re using this chainless dc start.
dc 2-tog : Double
crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp,
yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo,
draw through all lps on hk. One dc 2-tog
We start our project from the bottom up – from
the base of the top to the shoulders. So
our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you
are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the
waist, then you will start with half round waist measure.
Remember that you need to check both the half
chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure. Also keep the stretch of your yarn as well as the tension (tightness / looseness) of your crochet work in mind when working with tops.
Our pattern is a direct copy of the skirt – it’s
just worked upside down. This means that
the top of the skirt (around waist) is the bottom of our top (also around waist!).
So you are working the exact same pattern, just
that you are working it UP to the shoulders, while the skirt was worked DOWN to
Great 2-in-1 pattern, right?
One other thing that I’d like to mention before
you can whizz off to get the pattern.
The pattern has a fixed start fdc count of 76. Look at the pattern. It has a centre
pineapple section and sides that are plain.. So here’s where you need to work
in calculations and work a small swatch to check your gauge and see how many stitches give you how many inches for the plain section of the pattern.
The centre pineapple bit is 30 sts, and the
plain sides are the balance 46 (so 23 on each side). The centre 30 sts stays the same, and that
will be worked in pattern. You can add
to the side 23 sts in case you need to.
So here’s what you will need to do. You will need to work a gauge swatch with
your yarn and see if you get the gauge given.
The pattern has been worked for a 27-29” waist. In case you get gauge, then you will get a
27-29” waist ; and that’s how you will calculate how much you need to add to get
the size you’ll need.
The other thing you can do is work the pattern
for the first say 5 rows.. and then measure and decide if you need to add to
the side 23 sts. I'm sorry with certain patterns, it is just too difficult to figure out a stitch count to make it usable in any situation... but then this is what creativity is all about! Here is the upside down chart for you :)
have successfully finished two halves of your top. Using one of the joining methods giving above,
join the sides of your top.
need to decide on how wide you want your neck opening.
markers to define the two sides points of the neckline.
rings to both sides of the top spacing them evenly apart. It does not matter how many rings you use.
Personally, I’d say a little more rather than less – as that would improve the
that you attach rings in exactly the same point for both halves (front and
back) of the top.
rings that will mark the shoulders and then sleeve (cold shoulder portion) of
finished the top, I thought of a great idea – you could attach a bead bang
centre of your ring – and bling it up a bit.
Go ahead, create – but do remember to mention me when
you show off this creation ;)
are done with the shoulders, we will do the final finishing for the base of the
top. The lower edge of the top is a
little “off” where we have worked the pineapple bit. So here’s what I did
rounds of hdc all around. Join with a
sl-st at the end of each round.
that you have hdc in multiples of 5 when you are done. If you are running off count, reduce to cinch
the waist, rather than add stitches to get the stitch count.
border, let’s work a small shell pattern all around.
1 : sc in the
1st hdc ;
*sk next 2
hdc, 7 dc in the next hdc ; sk next 2 hdc, sc in the next hdc* ;
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
completed the crochet portion – now to join all these elements together.
where your creativity comes in again.
see how many ‘pineapples’ you have along the last row and find the centre
one. Count off that centre one to see
how wide you want your neckline opening and mark the pineapples to decide the
need to join the last 2 pineapples for the front and back of the top
these two markers, you need to decide how many more joints you would like
between your front and back
also decide to allow the top to just flop down after placing two attachments
for the shoulder portion. This would
mean that you do not join the sleeve ends and that will flop down like an “open
the markers together, I suggest you use (plastic) rings. I have covered the rings with yarn not just
to give uniformity but also to aid in attaching the two rings (back to front)
need to first attach the ring to the marked point on the top (one ring each for
back and front markers) and then attach together. Please wear them after you
attach each set of rings to check that they are as loose (or tight) as you want
them. If you are making this for someone
else, please check this against their top measure(s) or draft.
and glue down all ends and block as per yarn instructions.
it.. we’re done with this splendidly beautiful creation.
that when you wear your top and show off on social media, tag me so I can enjoy
all this loveliness as well. J
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