Monday, 9 January 2017

EXQUISITE SHELLED DRESS FOR GIRLS



crochet baby dress

EXQUISITE SHELLED DRESS FOR GIRLS

( #Blogaday 09/365 )

This is a dress that my friend saw on her Facebook page and said that I just *had to make it* for her granddaughter.  It is a really simple shelled dress, and in its simplicity lies the exquisiteness of this pattern.

The whole dress has shells, all the way from the top to the bottom – how lovely is that? 

As always, this pattern can be made to fit any sized child.  All you need to do is ensure you have the stitch count, and work it to fit the size that you are working with/for.

Please remember that as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my wordsy explanations.  After all, I am taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)

And as we’re making requests, may I request you to link my blog when you make your project.  I feel horrid saying this, but there are many who have used the patterns freely given here, and not given any credit to the blog that has given them this pattern.  Come on guys.. it ain’t that much work to give credit and link the blog now, is it?
It’s worse when someone says “taken this from …(where ever they’ve taken the pattern from.. not just my blog I mean)” and not taking the trouble of giving the proper link(s).

You got a free pattern .. Pay It Forward ! Share away and add my blog link J

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.


Materials usedToday I have used ~ about one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ;

Size made : For a 6 - 9 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.
The stitches used in this pattern are simple and the pattern is repetitive.  However, there is calculation involved, and there are decisions and judgments that you will need to take/make. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ . In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                           ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                   yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                         sc : Single crochet



Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

May I suggest that you READ THROUGH the full pattern first before you pick up your hook.

Now there is a link for a set of sizing / measurement charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.  I always suggest that if you’re making this specifically for someone you know, try and get a well-fitted dress / outfit of that child.

We start our dress from the chest and work two halves of your yoke from chest to shoulders.  We will then come back to this first foundation round and re-attach yarn for the lower skirt part of the dress.

As I’ve mentioned at the start, this pattern can be made to fit any sized child.  Just get your stitch count right.



Part 1 : Yoke (Make 2)


We will make two yokes, and then join it at the shoulders and sides.  May I suggest that if you are working this pattern for a younger child, you keep the yoke completely open along the back, keeping a fuller longer button placket, for ease of getting it onto & over the child.  For older children, you can opt for a shorter placket.

And right off the bat, here is a tweak.
Using this same pattern, you can have this dress starting at the waist, and work the skirt pattern off the waist.  You will get a completely different finish and effect with this twist / tweak.  Remember though that you will need to work with measurement for Round Waist and not Round Chest.. but you knew that already!



Start Row 1 :  with fsc in multiples of 10 + 1 for the Half Round Chest measure of the child you are making this for.  Turn

Note : What is round chest.  It is (a) either the part that you are going to work the yoke up to ; or (b) the largest portion of chest under armhole.
Remember, if you are working this pattern to the waist, you must check both chest and waist measurements and work to half of the larger measure.  This means that if round chest is more than round waist, even if you are starting at round waist, you will use half round chest measurement!

Note also that the Shell stitch decreases your start chain length, so stop now and check that the Round Chest measure is still correct.  Check again after the next row as well, just to reduce ripping your work out.


Row 2 :  sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

We start with a Shell Stitch (or Shell St) which is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the same ch-2 sp)

Row 3 :  dc in the 1st sc ;
*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc]* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Now here’s where this pattern requires calculation and gets a little bit complicated.  As per chart, you will have just this following row, before you divide for armhole.  So here’s what you need to do
a)   See how many inches (work your gauge) from the start row till end of Row 2.  Calculate how many more inches you will add after you have worked Row 3
b)   See if you are OK with this height / length for the yoke, if YES, then continue on with the pattern as written, if NO, read ( c )
c)     If you think that you want a longer yoke or are starting this pattern at the waist, so obviously need more pattern rows to get to the armhole, then you will just follow the pattern all the way till the armhole and then work the decreases only when you get to the armhole.
So work your calculations and carry on with the pattern.

Row 4 :  dc in the 1st dc ;
*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Decide now where you need your armholes.  Rep Row 4 till you reach the armhole level and then we will work in a small decrease to shape the armhole. 

For our armhole decrease, we will just reduce one Shell st at each end.  Now let’s look at the 3 dc that we have worked just after the 1st dc and just before the last Shell st.  This is the 3-dc set that will mark the two ends of our armhole.  We will use that centre dc of this 3-dc set to mark the two ends.  So go ahead and place a marker in that centre dc.

Armhole Decrease Row :  sl-st past the 1st Shell st and into the marked dc ; dc in that marked dc ;
*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till the last marked dc ; ending with a dc in that last marked dc.  Turn.

With this one decrease, we’ve got a neat shape to our armhole.

Continue Rep Row 4 till you reach the neck level.

Neckline Decrease Idea :  For the neckline, we’re going to work a decrease exactly as we did for the armhole. So first decide how wide and low you want the neckline, and then find the two 3-dc sets on either side of the Shell St.  Place  a marker in the centre dc of the 3-dc set and work from the armhole to this marked dc and back for one side of the front, till you reach the shoulders.  Fasten off and then re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marked dc to work the other side of the front yoke till the shoulders.
Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.

You have now completed the front of your yoke.


crochet baby dress

For the back, you will work the same pattern but remember that you will be splitting the back for a button placket.

Now here’s what I usually do for the back.  Depending on how many Shell st repeats you have for the front, you will know just where your centre back is going to come in.
If you are lucky and you have an uneven number of Shell sts, then you will just choose the centre dc of the 3-dc set to be the break-point for the button placket.

If you have an even number of Shell sts, then you will need to split one Shell St.
This means that you will work half the Shell st (i.e 3 dc) and then work a dc in the last dc.  This applies for both ends of the button placket.

Right ho, then.  Let’s get cracking and get this yoke done.  We’ll meet back here soon to work on the skirt of this lovely shelled dress.

Part 2 : Skirt of dress

crochet baby dress



For the skirt portion, we will work in rounds.  So what I’ve done is joined the button placket of the yoke and then work the skirt portion continuously.

The stitch count for the skirt portion is 10.


So before you go off, here’s an idea.

The yoke has a similar stitch count, so you will be actually working in the same stitches as you have for the yoke. 
However, that will also mean that the dress is “A”-lined.  I was not happy with that, so I added a few stitches before I started Round 1 and the pattern.
So what you too can do, is work one full round adding sc all around but ensure that at the end of your round, you have the stitch count.

OK, so turn your work in such a way that the yoke is facing you , and you are now working your first round of the skirt on the other side of the first foundation row.

Re-attach your yarn and I’d suggest that you attach it at the centre back so that the joint line can be ‘hidden’ under the satin ribbon that you can thread through the waist / chest portion of the dress.

Round 1 :  3 dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next fsc  ;
ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Once again, we’ll use the same Shell Stitch (or Shell St) which is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the same ch-2 sp)

Round 2 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; Shell St in the same ch-2 sp ;
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc] ;
ch 1, Shell st in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st Shell st ;
Shell St in the same ch-2 sp ;
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc] ;
ch 1, Shell st in the next Shell st* ;
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

So off you go, and rep Round 3 till the skirt portion of your dress is the length needed and return back here for the final finishing. You could finish off when you have the length needed, or work the optional last round.



Optional Last Round :  sc in the 1st st and in each st and ch-sp all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.


Part 3 : Neckline Finishing





I have decided to work one round of sc in each st and ch-sp all around the neckline, just to give it a good, neat finish.


Part 4 : Armhole Finishing



The designer has worked one round of sc in each st and ch-sp all around the armhole, and that’s one idea.
But what I’ve thought of doing is work a round of sc , and keeping it in multiples of 10.  I’ve then worked Round 1 (of skirt).  For the next round, I’ve decided to work one sc in each st and ch-sp all around to finish.

You could also work all 3 rounds of the skirt portion and then do the Optional last finishing round to get a slightly longer sleeve.

Go ahead, create.. be different!

Part 5 : Placket Finishing

The last thing that we need to work on is the back placket.  I’ve worked one row of hdc along the right placket (where you have the holes that will allow the button to go through).  For this side, you will work a few hdc (I worked 5 hdc between two holes) ; and then work 1 ch, sk the next st and work hdc in the next 5 hdc.  This will give you holes that are neatly spaced apart.
Please note that before you go off to get this side done, you need to figure out which buttons you’re using, and then ensure that the holes that you are placing will allow the buttons through, and that the distance between two buttons is correct for the size of the buttons.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Part 6 : Embellishments and Pizzazz


The last thing that we need to work on is a tiny little flower for the top of the dress, which is of course optional. I’ve used this free rose crochet pattern that I’ve used before.  Check this free Easy Rose Crochet Pattern from Skip To My Lou at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/10/21-headbands-for-charity.html, and check out the other free floral patterns here as well.


You may also decide to add a nice satin ribbon.  You can weave in the ribbon in the ch-sps of the last round of the yoke.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J