Sunday, 8 January 2017


crochet socks


( #Blogaday 08/365 )

This is a really quick project and can make a lovely gift for anytime of the year, but you can also start on your next year’s Xmas gifts right now J

 In this blog, I have used several free pattern ideas to come up with this pair of socks.  So come along and check out which one works for you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook

Skill level : Easy to Intermediate.  

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

bp-hdc and fp-hdc : Back Post and Front Post Half Double Crochet :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.


Standard chart for foot size :

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                    ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                         sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook                                                         yo : Yarn Over 
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                              hdc : Half Double Crochet

This pattern is written using U.S terminology. 

You know me and my laziness.. and my need to find something easier to do. So thanks for joining me on this journey with this easy pair of socks too.  Two patterns caught my fancy, but neither of them really worked with the yarn I was using, so I kind-of smushed these two patterns up and made my project as I went along

First I found the free pattern from Poochie baby at

As I was working on the Poochie baby pattern, I chanced on this one
which I thought would suit my yarn better, thanks to the use of sc, which I preferred. 

Sadly though, this is a just an idea of what to do, (which is great.. as it is what I was going to do anyway.. ) ; but as it didn’t have specifics, I thought I’d just jot my notes down as I went along.

This write up, then is going to be a combination of these two patterns and then some idea(s) from my head. 

crochet socks

crochet socks

crochet socks

Start Round 1 : with a magic chain and 6 sc in that circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From the following round on, I have opted to work in continuous rounds.  I suggest you place a marker in the last st of your start round, and then move the marker every round.
You could also join with a sl-st at the end of each row, and the ensure that that joint line falls right at the back along the heel, if think this is easier.

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. (12 sc)
Move marker.

Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. (24 sc)
Move marker.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. (24 sc)
Move marker.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* 5 times. (30 sc)
Move marker.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. (30 sc)
Move marker.

Gauge check : At this point, my little circle diameter is about 3”.  I am looking for an around-the-toe diameter of 3.5”, so I am going to stop increases right now.  My yarn stretch and looseness of stitching will accommodate the needed 0.5”.
If you need a further increase, add 6 sts in the next round so your next round will read as follows.  I am assuming that there are no further increase(s), so I am going to keep our round count going, and adding an “A” only for one last additional increase.
Round 6A : sc in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* 5 times. (36 sc)
Move marker.

As we are not making any further increases, we don’t really need to move the marker any further.  The marker is just to show you the start/end point. 

Finally my Round counts.. I am going to write it for the foot size I am making it for.  I am making it for a foot length of 9.5” (So rather than going with the regular sizes, I’ve asked my friend to give me a pencil drawing, marking of her foot with measurements, and as you can see, we got a terrific fit.)

Round 7 – 34 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. (30 sc)  Work this till you have it at the arch of your foot , closest to the end of your ankle.

Before we move further a few thoughts and a visual image of what we’re going to do.

Fold the piece you have worked so far to gauge how many inches from toe as well as how many inches across.  We have established that this will cover across your toes, so we are not going to increase any further but continue working in rounds without any increase till you reach the top of your foot near your ankle ; or more than halfway up the curve / arch of your lower foot.

At that point, we will divide for the back part of the foot, and work back and forth in rows.
We will work back and forth rows, till your work reaches the back of your heel.

Yes, I hear your question.. how do you gauge how far you need to work if you are making this as a gift.  Well, right at the top of this blog is a foot measure.  So my suggestion is to check that measure board OFF your foot and see if the sizes there match your foot and work.  If they do (which I am sure they will), then all you need to calculate and estimate is the increase / decrease for the person you are making this for.  Easy enough, right? Let’s hook on then.

Now that we’re at the end of the foot arch, we will work in Rows.  Let’s start renumbering for convenience.

Move your marker up to the row to mark where we’re going to start Row 1 for the heel.

Row 1 - 14 : sc in the 1st sc and in the next 20 sts (21 sc)
Work for the heel, side to side, for as many inches as you want to get the heel.

So how do you measure this bit?  Place your work flat on the surface and measure all the way from the toe till the end of the rows you’ve just completed and see if you get the full length of foot.  I need 9.5”, so I need 9.5” from heel to end of Row 14.  Once done, fasten off leaving a long tail to attach back of foot.

Tweak Ideas : I have worked a change of yarn colour along the last 14 rows.  So I worked every alternate row in a different colour.  Use one of the ideas on how to work with two colours at the top of the blog.  This gives the shoe a really complicated look, but as you know, it’s not that much hard work!

Joining : Use one of the joining methods at the top of this blog to join the two ends of the heel.  So to join, fold the row that we’ve just worked on in half, and then attach the two sides together. This forms the back of the heel. Fasten off.

If using two colours, then you will fasten off any one colour (i.e the colour that you have used to join your two sides) and we will continue working with the other yarn around the round ankle portion.

If using only one yarn, re-attach your yarn at the back heel join, and we will work all around the round ankle portion now.

Final finishing :
For the around ankle portion, I’ve used the idea from here

Round 1 : sc in the 1st st and in each st evenly all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

It does not matter how many sc you have.  Ensure only that it is a comfortable fit and you are not scrunching your stitches together.
As a general rule, place one sc in each vertical sc bar (for the sides of your work) and 1 sc in each sc all around.

From the following row on, we will work in post stitches.  You can work either the Front post double crochet (fpdc) or the Front post half double crochet (fphdc).  Choose your stitch and work accordingly.

Round 2 - 5 : fphdc in the 1st st and in each st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Check the top of this blog for a “how – to” on post stitches.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all these instructions for the 2nd matching pair, as well as all other pairs that you are going to work on henceforth!

Now tell me, this IS a superbly easy pattern, isn’t it? AND it gives such a cool fit too. 

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J