I just made my first pair of yoga socks and I
thought of this new ribbed pattern for my second pair. These socks (well, this pattern with the open or free heel) I am informed are also great for pilates, kick boxing and dance.. so hmmm.. guess this one is going to get made at least once more!
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This is my own pattern that I am working off
the first pattern idea – well, the idea of the number of stitches and how that was
made, keeping the heel free.
The effect
on these socks is mainly due to this absolutely superb Camel Stitch which is a
lot like working in the back loops, but with a slight twist. The end result is this knitted-like effect
along the front of your work, which looks pretty darn swell.
This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made :
Foot Size 5
Difficulty level
: Easy to Intermediate Skill level
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
First off, as usual, let’s think about how we’re
going to make our yoga socks. We will
start with a foundation row in half double crochet.
We will work one part that will go around the
ankle, and then work around the same foundation row to work the part that will
go around the arch of the foot. The heel
part is left open, which is what makes these socks unique.
So right off the bat, ideas – let’s all start
with the same number of stitches.
If you
think that the number does not work, just double up your yarn and increase the
hook size. Of course, if this does not
work, then just increase the number of stitches – as this project does not have
a pattern repeat or a definite stitch requirement.
The only thing that we will do throughout is
work our Camel stitch from Round 1.
For practical purposes, I am going to
write hdc-blo instead of the longer word Camel stitch. I also write this just in case you find the
Camel stitch too hard to do, then you just work hdc-blo in each stitch and you
will still get a pretty cute end product.
Right then.. let’s start hookin
Part 1 : The ankle portion
Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk
Start :
with 32 fhdc or as many fhdc as you would need to go comfortably around your
ankle. Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st, ensuring that you keep the chain as flat as you can without twisting. (32
sts)
Note : We’re working
the Camel Stitch in the place where I’ve written hdc-blo from now on, till
otherwise specified.
Whether you are working with the Camel stitch or
hdc-blo, we will start with a ch-1 which will be a turning chain. This turning chain is not counted as a
stitch.
Round 1 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st fhdc ;
hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc
; hdc in the last fhdc.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)
Stop for a second and slip
the project onto your foot and see that it fits around your ankle. If yes, then carry on.. If not.. then just
add / reduce a few stitches till you have it fit neatly.
Round 2 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ;
hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ;
hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st
to the 1st st. (32 sts)
Rounds 3 - 7 :
Rep Round 2. (32 sts) (Check note below)
Round 8 :
sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(32 sts). Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note : At
this point, measure the band you’ve made.
I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size. This is the band that
is going to go around your ankle, so see how wide you want this and rep Round 2
till you have the band of the size you want.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 2 : The arch of the foot portion
Re-attach your
yarn at the first foundation round we’d started with.
We are now once again working on the first
foundation round, but on the other side of the sts.
For this portion of the pattern, we will be
working back and forth in rows from Row 2 – 4 .
We will therefore, be working alternatively in hdc back loops and
alternative rows in the Camel stitch for these rows.
We will then add a ch and rejoin to make a round
(for the arched portion of foot), and once we’re working in rounds, we will
go back to working the Camel stitch. The Camel stitch only shows its beauty
when worked on the front of the work, which is why we will not use it when
working on the back of your project.
In the following 2 round / row, if you can, then
work the camel stitch, else work a hdc in the back loops only.
Round 1 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st fhdc ;
hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc
; hdc in the last fhdc.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)
Row 2 : sl-st
in the 1st 6 sts ; hdc in the next hdc ;
hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc .
Turn, leaving the last 6 sts unworked. (20
sts)
In the following row, we will be working back
and forth in rows, so work hdc in back loops only.
Row 3 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ;
hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . Turn. (20 sts)
In the following row, work the Camel stitch, if
you can, else continue with back loops.
At the end of the row, we will rejoin the two
ends of our row with ch-12 and make it a round.
Row 4 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ;
hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . ch 12.
Ensuring that you keep this chain straight
(without twisting), join it to the 1st st. (32 sts)
Round 5 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc ;
12 hdc in the next ch-12 sp.
(32 sts) (Check note below)
Note : May
I suggest that you take the trouble of working 1 hdc per ch – i.e going into
each chain stitch and working individual hdc rather than just working a set of
12 hdc in that full ch-12 sp. It will
not just look nicer, but also hold the back of your socks really well.
From this round on, we will work with our Camel
stitch once again.
If you decide to work
on the hdc back loops as before, that’s ok.
Else, remember that where it reads hdc-blo, you will work the Camel
stitch.
Round 6 :
ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ;
hdc in the last hdc. Join with a sl-st
to the 1st st. (32 sts)
Rounds 7 - 11 :
Rep Round 2. (32 sts). (Check note below)
Round 12 :
sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(32 sts).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note : At
this point, measure the band you’ve made.
I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size.
This is the band that
is going to go around the arch of your foot, so see how wide you want this and
rep Round 2 till you have the band of the size you want.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Let’s see what you come up with.
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You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual footwear patterns.
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