Sunday, 4 September 2016

RIBBED YOGA SOCKS

free crochet pattern, free crochet yoga socks pattern, free crochet pattern, free crochet yoga socks pattern,

RIBBED YOGA SOCKS

I just made my first pair of yoga socks and I thought of this new ribbed pattern for my second pair.  These socks (well, this pattern with the open or free heel) I am informed are also great for pilates, kick boxing and dance.. so hmmm.. guess this one is going to get made at least once more!

This is my own pattern that I am working off the first pattern idea – well, the idea of the number of stitches and how that was made, keeping the heel free.  

The effect on these socks is mainly due to this absolutely superb Camel Stitch which is a lot like working in the back loops, but with a slight twist.  The end result is this knitted-like effect along the front of your work, which looks pretty darn swell. 

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 80 gms of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 4. 5 mm crochet hook ;

Size made : Foot Size 5

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level

Abbreviations used :
fhdc : Foundation Half Double crochet                   hdc : Half double crochet
ch : chain                                                                              ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                              rep : Repeat
hdc-blo : Half Double crochet back loop only                                     

Stitches used :  (Using U.S terminology)
fhdc : Foundation Half Double Crochet : http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-half-double-crochet/

How to do the Camel stitch : The camel stitch is a lot like working in the back loop stitch, but you get a knitted finish on the top of your work.  Check out this video to see how to get this done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJorQch4D0


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)



First off, as usual, let’s think about how we’re going to make our yoga socks.  We will start with a foundation row in half double crochet. 
We will work one part that will go around the ankle, and then work around the same foundation row to work the part that will go around the arch of the foot.  The heel part is left open, which is what makes these socks unique.

So right off the bat, ideas – let’s all start with the same number of stitches.  If you think that the number does not work, just double up your yarn and increase the hook size.  Of course, if this does not work, then just increase the number of stitches – as this project does not have a pattern repeat or a definite stitch requirement.
The only thing that we will do throughout is work our Camel stitch from Round 1.

For practical purposes, I am going to write hdc-blo instead of the longer word Camel stitch.  I also write this just in case you find the Camel stitch too hard to do, then you just work hdc-blo in each stitch and you will still get a pretty cute end product.

Right then.. let’s start hookin

Part 1 : The ankle portion




Start : with 32 fhdc or as many fhdc as you would need to go comfortably around your ankle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st, ensuring that you keep the chain as flat as you can without twisting. (32 sts)

Note : We’re working the Camel Stitch in the place where I’ve written hdc-blo from now on, till otherwise specified.

Whether you are working with the Camel stitch or hdc-blo, we will start with a ch-1 which will be a turning chain.  This turning chain is not counted as a stitch.


Round 1 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st fhdc ; hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc ; hdc in the last fhdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)

Stop for a second and slip the project onto your foot and see that it fits around your ankle.  If yes, then carry on.. If not.. then just add / reduce a few stitches till you have it fit neatly.

Round 2 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ; hdc in the last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)

Rounds 3 - 7 : Rep Round 2. (32 sts)  (Check note below)

Round 8 : sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : At this point, measure the band you’ve made.  I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size. This is the band that is going to go around your ankle, so see how wide you want this and rep Round 2 till you have the band of the size you want.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 2 : The arch of the foot portion





Re-attach your yarn at the first foundation round we’d started with. 
We are now once again working on the first foundation round, but on the other side of the sts.

For this portion of the pattern, we will be working back and forth in rows from Row 2 – 4 .  We will therefore, be working alternatively in hdc back loops and alternative rows in the Camel stitch for these rows. 
We will then add a ch and rejoin to make a round (for the arched portion of foot), and once we’re working in rounds, we will go back to working the Camel stitch. The Camel stitch only shows its beauty when worked on the front of the work, which is why we will not use it when working on the back of your project.

In the following 2 round / row, if you can, then work the camel stitch, else work a hdc in the back loops only.

Round 1 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st fhdc ; hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc ; hdc in the last fhdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)

Row 2 : sl-st in the 1st 6 sts ; hdc in the next hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . Turn, leaving the last 6 sts unworked.  (20 sts)

In the following row, we will be working back and forth in rows, so work hdc in back loops only.
Row 3 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . Turn.  (20 sts)

In the following row, work the Camel stitch, if you can, else continue with back loops.
At the end of the row, we will rejoin the two ends of our row with ch-12 and make it a round.
Row 4 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . ch 12.  Ensuring that you keep this chain straight (without twisting), join it to the 1st st. (32 sts)

Round 5 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc ; 12 hdc in the next  ch-12 sp.  (32 sts) (Check note below)

Note : May I suggest that you take the trouble of working 1 hdc per ch – i.e going into each chain stitch and working individual hdc rather than just working a set of 12 hdc in that full ch-12 sp.  It will not just look nicer, but also hold the back of your socks really well.

From this round on, we will work with our Camel stitch once again.  If you decide to work on the hdc back loops as before, that’s ok.  Else, remember that where it reads hdc-blo, you will work the Camel stitch.

Round 6 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ; hdc in the last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts)

Rounds 7 - 11 : Rep Round 2. (32 sts).  (Check note below)

Round 12 : sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (32 sts). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : At this point, measure the band you’ve made.  I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size. This is the band that is going to go around the arch of your foot, so see how wide you want this and rep Round 2 till you have the band of the size you want.
Fasten off and weave in ends.




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