Wednesday, 19 July 2017

A CUTE LITTLE CANDY DOLL

free crochet amigurumi pattern, free crochet candy doll pattern, free crochet toy pattern

A CUTE LITTLE CANDY DOLL


I started making a few teddy bears for a charity drive and that has started me on my toys / amigurumis and more fun.  I am not going to think about where these little dolls are head – but they are sure going to make one little kid happy and spread a few smiles.

I found a free pattern for this cute little doll right here at https://amigurumibb.com/2013/11/22/bb-candy-dolls/
These are my notes for the crafters (mainly us Indians) who are using a similar yarn, as well as for the little changes I’d made.  These are the cute inspirational photographs (designers) that got me started on this journey.




Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn & Anchor knitting cotton yarn ; with 2.5 mm & 1.75 mm crochet hooks respectively ; embroidery needle ; poly fill non-allergic stuffing

Size : She stands at 10.5” tall

Skill level :  Intermediate.  

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

How to single crochet join :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmYEsHlgQ30


  
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                               st(s) : Stitch(es)     
sp : Space                                                         sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook                                                                      yo : Yarn Over 
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                        

This pattern is written using U.S terminology.  This pattern is cute and well written.  Here are my notes for the mild confusion that I’d had in the pattern, and what I’ve done.

So there are small bits and pieces here and there, and then the shoes that I’ve made a little differently – all in my notes here.  Enjoy.

Head & Body : Clarification


 Head sideways view

Head front view

I’m not sure if you would have *worried* (even if for just a second till you scroll down the designer’s notes J ), but when I completed the instructions, I only had a head.. and wondered if I’d gone wrong somewhere.  The body instructions follow after the legs. 
The head has a cute little chin that sticks out forward (thanks to the increases in Round 14) and that looks a little odd (well, to me) but it works out superbly eventually.  Kudos to the designer in this thought process & head / face design !

Legs : Clarification
Round 9 : The designer has said work 4 sc, fold and then work 4 sc. 
So the *fold* here then becomes the heel & back of foot and you will then work the 4 sc on top, and then pick up the remaining 8 sc along the sides and bottom to complete the round.  Once you have your 12 sc all around, you will work upwards to form the leg.

Joining 4 sc


Body : Clarification
Round 2 : The designer has said “sc1, Inc2 over 2chain stitches previous round”. 
So what I’ve done is work 2 sc in the 2 sc from one end between legs, go around the 1st leg and then work 2 more sc in that same ‘ch’ from the other end. 
I am not sure if this is what the designer meant in the first place, but I got the total of 30 sts as required – so I guess that’s what’s most important

Legs joining

Hair weaving ideas
The designer has given a link for hair weaving. In my amigurumi and toy making before, I  have tried (successfully) two types of weaving – one is making a little cap that you weave into and then attach that cap onto the head, and the second is weaving directly onto the head we’ve made.  I’ve used this second way of weaving for this project here.

So for this, start with the first round of 5 sc, and weave in a folded yarn in each of these sts. Hold a length of yarn from the top of the head to the point you want it along the back of the body, and then double that.  This is the yarn you will use for this section of the head.
If you want all the hair one length, the you will need to measure the yarn every few rows as the length will decrease as you start weaving lower and lower on the head (obviously).  If you keep one yarn length, then you will get a nice layered look for the hair – so use these ideas to get different hair styles.

For the actual weaving : Put your hook into 1 st and bring it out of the hole right next to it ; loop the folded yarn onto the hk and pull through ; Pass one half of the folded yarn through this lp and pull tight.  You have woven your first bit of hair in.  I have tied a knot at the scalp just to ensure that if your little kid decides to comb the hair, it does not come off onto her comb ;)
Weave hair all around working one hair into each st for the 1st few rounds.

After working the crown of the head, run a marker around the sides and bottom of the head so you get a hair line marked. 

 Mark hair line with embroidery needle
 Place hook in
 Yarn over
 Pull yarn through
 Yarn over (loop up)
 Yarn pulled through
Knot up.  One  hair strand woven in

Every few rounds, please flip the hair back and check how thick it is and how it is falling.  After the first few rounds, you could opt to work a weave every alternate stitch and every alternate row, depending on 
(a) how thick you want your doll’s hair ; 
and (b) how thick your yarn is.

Right then, let’s get our hair on .. literally :)

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Dress Yoke : I used knitting cotton for the dress.  I started with fsc (as usual), so started with 25 fsc as against 27 ch.
We start the dress / shirt from the neck down, and are working in rows from the back, around the front and to the back again. So the opening will be along the back. 

There is a small typo after R 5.  The designer says Repeat R 5 till the length needed.  What is meant is not the skip any stitches but to work in the stitches that remain.  When we skipped the sts in R 5, we have made the sleeves / armhole openings, so what we continue now to work on is the across front and across back of our little shirt / top of dress till we decide how long we want this.  I am sure you get what I mean :)

Dress Skirt : Here’s what I’ve done
I worked a multiple of 3 + 2 in the last row before I finished off with the yoke of my dress.  The designer has suggested that you work in rows for a bit and then start working in rounds.  So before you join your ends, ensure that the opening is wide enough for her head and hair to go through easily enough for a child to work it.

I’ve started numbering from R 1 (which could be Row or Round)

R 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next dc ;
*dc in the next 2 dc , rep (to) in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

R 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; sk next dc, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;
*sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; sk next dc, , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

In our following row / round, we’ll use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same ch-1 sp.

R 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; sk next dc, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
*sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; sk next dc, , “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

Rep R 3 till your dress is of the length needed.
Note : Our pattern is a rep of 2 dc followed by a “V”-st.  So for all following rows, you will be actually sk the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) and only working your “V”-sts in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.. but you did get that, didn’t you :)

For finishing – follow what the lovely designer has suggested and run a round of sc all around the neckline, back placket and armholes.  For fun, run this round in the contrast thread that you’ve used for the skirt.


Slip-On Shoes :
The designer has made a cute lil elf shoe. Here’s what I’ve done though.
Start : with a magic circle and 5 sc in the circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 1 : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (10 sc)

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (15 sc)

Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next sc ;
*2 sc in the next 2 sc ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* once ; sc in all the sc till end, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (18 sc)

Round 4 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (18 sc)

Rounds 5 - 8 : Rep Round 4.

We will now work in rows for the next few rows, working on the sides and back of our shoe.

Row 9 : sc in the 1st sc and in the next 13 sc.  Turn.   (14 sc)

Rows 10 - 15 : Rep Row 9.

In the last row of the shoe, we’re going to fold our row in half and attach the 9 sc down the back to make the back of the shoe.
To attach the shoe, we will be working in both the folded halves.
Use one of the several ideas given above (top of blog) for joining.

Row 16 : Fold the shoe in half, and work 9 sc through both halves of the shoe. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One shoe complete.  Repeat instructions for the second shoe as well.

Tweak : Using the contrast colour of the dress, run a round of sc or sl-st all around the top of the shoe.

free crochet doll pattern, free crochet amigurumi, free crochet candy doll pattern, free crochet toy pattern

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few toys / amigurumi already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go 













Friday, 14 July 2017

THE SETTING SUN COUCH THROW

free crochet blanket pattern


THE SETTING SUN COUCH THROW


Isn’t it fantastic how we use up one set of scrap yarn and suddenly (and miraculously?) find ourselves with yet another large bag full of it ?  There is probably a section here on the internet for different ways to use scrap yarn..
Yup.. One can make /use a key chain and a small stuff toy too, but when you don’t get the *right* colours for that project, I ain’t too thrilled to start on it.
With this scrappy afghan / throw though, you can just go a little merry on the colours. 



This is not my original pattern.  Get the pattern at http://www.freewebs.com/bethintx/scrappystepsafghan.htm
These are just my notes on how I went about it.

I placed out all my yarn colour wise.  I decided that I am just going to grade them (i.e light to dark - within the colour range) and use up one colour as I go along.  I will *try* to get the colours in some semblance of order as well, but I also think that with this lovely pattern, it is not really going to matter.

I have also decided not to worry when one color ends halfway through a section.  I will just join up the next one (either in the colour range, or the next set of colors) and carry on.

I hope you have as much fun as I am, and will join me back for my next foray into Scrappy afghans – yes.. I already have another pattern in mind to use up scraps in an afghan.

Materials used : I have used oh ~ 700 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply, light fingering yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook using up all the scrap yarn I have in this weight category.

Size : 52” x 69”, which is a little larger than a “Standard Sized Couch afghan”.

Stitches used :  (Using U.S terminology)
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.



and here are some more photos of this superb project. 

free crochet blanket pattern

free crochet blanket pattern

free crochet blanket pattern

free crochet blanket pattern

As I said before this is not my original pattern and I used the the pattern from http://www.freewebs.com/bethintx/scrappystepsafghan.htm

This whole pattern works only on the right side of work, and from right to left each row.  You will fasten off at the end of each row.

Now the only difference that I have worked here is that I have not left any yarn at the start or end of my work.  I have actually woven in the yarn as I started each row, and at the end, I fastened off. 

Once I had a the width I wanted, I started working on the length.  
I started working the finishing rows, which is working from right to left (as usual), but finishing off one section at a time in a wave-like-finish, once again weaving in the ends as I finished each row.

The biggest difference that I feel with my afghan and the one by the designer is my color choice.  As I have decided to use one full ball of yarn to finish off one section at a time, I feel that the illusion effect is different from using contrasting colours every row (as has the designer).

I love the wave-like pattern that my afghan has ended up with, and of course, it is also a fantastic stash buster.

Finishing :  A good finish makes a huge difference.
First run a round of sc / hdc / dc all around ensuring that you work 3 sts in each corner stitch.  I have worked a few rows of hdc all around , just to ‘frame’ the centre part in - so that the beauty of the wave-like pattern is highlighted.
Remember that with each increasing round, you will need to work 3 sts in the
corner centre stitch (of the 3-st set from the earlier round) in each corner, every round.

If you have not woven the ends of your yarn at the start and end, I suggest that before you start the finishing round, you weave them in, and then ensure that when are working the first round for your finishing, you re-weave and hold those little yarns in.  That will give your end product a good finish and prevent ends sticking out over time.

Once completely done, fasten off and weave in ends.  Block as per yarn instructions. 

For my project, I hand-washed using a light liquid soap and rinsed off with a fabric conditioner.  I then flat dried & blocked it.

Please do tag me on Facebook when you finish your product, as I’d love to see your creation(s).

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a list of similar projects that you may like to take a look at