MR. BIG EARS
Dumbo has always been among my favourite
characters, and to get to make an amigurumi toy inspired by this adorable creature is a
*Yaay* for me.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click the highlighted links below to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Materials used : Today I’ve used some of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size : About 6” tall
Skill level : Advanced.
Basic sewing skills needed.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
For this darling Dumbo elephant amigurumi, I
referred to the pattern at http://crocherdamoda.blogspot.in/2015/08/elefante-dumbo-em-croche.html#.Wi4TPEqWZPZ
This pattern is not in English and even with Google translate, it does not really pan out well… so here’s what I’ve done.
Please check the link above, and choose whichever works best for you.
If you choose my instructions, please
credit my blog when you share your creation. Thanks.
I do not claim this as my pattern – but this is my original
project and these are my notes as I make my own project that I share freely
with you.
I have decided to use grey for the body ; grey +
pink for ears ; red + yellow for scarf and yellow for the little cap.
Choose whatever colours you’d like and work
accordingly.
I have decided to use sc all through as I want a
small project. Choose sc or hdc (half
double crochet) for your project. Use
the same stitch (i.e either sc or hdc) throughout though. Obviously, in case you choose to work with
hdc, you will replace the word sc with hdc in the pattern instructions below.
I have decided to use stuffing balls (as I plan
on calling this genius idea) for stuffing my little toy. So first off, what is this genius stuffing
ball?
This is not my idea, but sadly,
I can’t find the original link for this idea.
So what you do is use a stocking net to stuff
your toy – basically sew one end of your stocking net, fill it with poly fill
stuffing, and when you have a ball of the size you need, sew the other end of
the stocking too. All this does is
enclose the poly fill neatly within the stocking net – so not only does it seal
in the poly fill during washing, but also prevents it from seeping out of the
small holes in our crochet.
Remember if you are using this idea, you will
need to stuff before you reach the end of your decrease sections.
As we are all advanced crocheters here, do work
out when you need to stuff your toy.
Come along then.. Dumbo calls..
PART 1 : BODY
Start Round 1 : (using
body colour) :
with a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6
sts)
Round 2 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 3 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18
sts)
Round 4 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 2 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24
sts)
Round 5 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Round 6 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Round 7 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42
sts)
Round 8 : (using
body colour) :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48
sts)
Rounds 9 - 11 : (using
body colour) :
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48
sts)
In the following round, we will decrease using a
sc 2-tog. In case you have worked with hdc so far, you will decrease with hdc
2-tog.
Check the top of this blog for a “how to”
Round 12 : (Decrease
round using body colour) :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 6 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 6
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42
sts)
Round 13 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42
sts)
Round 14 : (Decrease
round using body colour) :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 5 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 5
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Rounds 15 & 16 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Round 17 : (Decrease
round using body colour) :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 4 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 4
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Rounds
18 & 19 : sc in the 1st
sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail to sew on other
body parts.
PART 2 : HEAD & TRUNK
For this section, we will start with the trunk
and work up to the head.
Start Round 1 : (using
body colour)
with a magic circle and 4 sc in the circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (4
sts)
Round 2 : 2
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (8
sts)
Rounds 3 & 4 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (8
sts)
Round 5 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
2 sc in the next sc ; sc in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (10
sts)
Round 6 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (10
sts)
Round 7 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ;
2 sc in the next sc ; sc in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 8 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 9 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
2 sc in the next sc ; sc in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (14
sts)
Round 10 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (21
sts)
Now for the next 4 rows, we are going to create
the top of the snout / trunk.
So we will work in rows for the next 4 rows, and
then we will join back to work in rounds. Got it?
So for convenience, and so that we do not lose
round count, I am going to call these rows A,B,C and D
Rows A & B : sc
in the 1st 7 sc and Turn.
Row C : sk
the 1st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc and Turn.
Row D : sc
in the 1st 5 sc and Turn.
We’ve now created the top of the trunk.. so we
will join all our sts again and work in rounds again. We are at one end, and we
will need to pick up sts along the side of the trunk to get a finished
even look
So we have 5 sc along the top of Row D, and 15
sc along the back (Round 10).
We have worked 4 rows (A to D).
So we will now work along the 5 sc ; down the
sides of Rows A to D ; along the 15 sc of the back and then up the sides of
Rows A to D. Got it?
Round 10 : sc
in the 1st 5 sc ;
(work down along the sides of Row A-D) work 7 sc
evenly spaced out ;
sc in the next 15 sc ;
(work up along the sides of Row A-D) work 7 sc
evenly spaced out ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (33
sts)
Great job! We are now back to working in rounds.
Round 11 : sc
in the 1st 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
[sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc] ;
(sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;
sc in the last 3 sc ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (39
sts)
Round 12 : sc
in the 1st 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc in the next 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sc in the last 9 sts.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42
sts)
Rounds 13 - 21 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42
sts)
Round 22 : (Decrease
round) :
sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 5
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Round 23 : (Decrease
round) :
sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 4
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Round 24 : (Decrease
round) :
sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24
sts)
Round 25 : (Decrease
round) :
sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 2
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18
sts)
You could start stuffing now.
Round 26 : (Decrease
round) : sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 27 : (Decrease
round) : sc 2-tog over the in the 1st 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6
sts)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for attachment.
PART 3 : EARS
Make two
For this section, we will work with 2 colours,
one each for the front and back of ear. I have chosen to use pink for the
inside and the body grey for the ouside of the ear.
We will work in rounds, changing yarn (and
carrying your unused yarn) every round throughout.
The other (simpler) way to get this done is work
one side with grey yarn and one side in pink yarn, and then join the two ear
parts together.
Remember to work a mirror
image for the 2nd ear.
Start : (with
body colour) : with 5 fsc. Turn.
From now on, we will work 2 colours
and turn at the end of the row /round.
Round 1 :
Join colour for inner ear / pink colour :
2 sc in the 1st fsc ; sc in the next
3 fsc ; 2 sc in the last fsc.
Change to body / grey colour :
2 sc in the next fsc ; sc in the next 3 fsc ; 2
sc in the last fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (14
sts)
Round 2 :
Working with grey colour :
2 sc in the 1st (grey) sc ; sc in the
next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc
in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18
sts)
Round 3 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 9 sc.
Working with pink colour :
sc in the 1st (pink) 9 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18
sts)
Round 4 : Working
with grey colour :
2 sc in the 1st (grey) sc ; sc in the
next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the next (pink) sc ; sc in the next 7 sc
; 2 sc in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (22
sts)
Round 5 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 11 sc.
Working with pink colour :
sc in the 1st (pink) next 11 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (22
sts)
Round 6 :
Working with grey colour :
2 sc in the 1st (grey) sc ; sc in the
next 9 sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the next (pink) sc ; sc in the next 9 sc
; 2 sc in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (26
sts)
Rounds 7 - 10 : Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) sc and in the
next 11 (grey) sc.
Working with pink colour :
sc in the 1st (pink) sc and in the
next 11 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (26
sts)
Round 11 :
Working with grey colour :
2 sc in the 1st (grey) sc ; sc in the
next 11 sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the next (pink) sc ; sc in the next 11
sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Round 12 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 13 sc and 2 sc in
the next sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the 1st (pink) sc and in the
next 13 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30
sts)
Round 13 :
Working with grey colour :
2 sc in the 1st (grey) sc ; sc in the
next 14 sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the next (pink) sc ; sc in the next 14
sc ; 2 sc in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Round 14 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st 17 (grey) sc and 2 sc in
the next sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the 1st (pink) sc and in the
next 17 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (38
sts)
Round 15 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 19 sc.
Working with pink colour :
sc in the 1st (pink) next 19 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (38
sts)
Round 16 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st 18 (grey) sc and 2 sc
in the next sc.
Working with pink colour :
2 sc in the 1st (pink) sc and in the
next 18 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (40
sts)
Round 17 : Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 18 sc and sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc.
Working with pink colour :
sc 2-tog over the next (pink) 2 sc and in the next 18 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (38 sts)
Rounds 18 - 23 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st 19 (grey) sc ;
Working with pink colour :
sc in the next (pink) 19 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (38
sts)
Round 24 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 17 sc ; sc 2-tog
over the next 2 sc ;
Working with pink colour :
sc 2-tog over the next 2 (pink) sc and sc in the
next 17 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
sts)
Round 25 :
Working with grey colour :
sc in the 1st (grey) 16 sc ; sc 2-tog
over the next 2 sc ;
Working with pink colour :
sc 2-tog over the next 2 (pink) sc and sc in the
next 16 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (34
sts)
Round 26 :
Working with grey colour :
Sl-st over the 1st (grey) 5 sc ; sc
in the next 10 sc ;
Working with pink colour :
sc in the next 10 (pink) sc.
Fasten off.
Work a mirror image for the 2nd ear.
PART 4 : TAIL
Make one
We will use the body colour to make our tail.
Start Round 1 : with a magic
circle and 3 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sc
in all 3 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (3 sts)
Round 3 : 2
sc in all 3 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sts)
Rounds 4 & 5 : sc
in all 6 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sts)
Round 6 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) once.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. (9 sts)
Round 7 : sc
in all 9 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9 sts)
Fasten off and leave a bit of yarn to affix tail
onto body.
PART 5 : LEGS
Make four
We will use the body colour to make our legs.
Start Round 1 : with a magic
circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : 2
sc in all 6 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)
Round 3 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. (18 sts)
Round 4 : sc
in all 18 sc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sts)
Round 5 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 4
sc) ;
rep (to) once.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (15
sts)
Rounds 6 - 11 : sc
in all 15 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (15 sts)
Round 12 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3
sc) ;
rep (to) once.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 13 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6
sts)
Fasten off and leave a bit of yarn to affix tail
onto body.
PART 6 : SCARF
Make one
We will use two colours here – you could make it
all in one colour too, but going by the photograph, I chose to work with red n
yellow.
Depending on the thickness of your yarn and how
wide you want your scarf, choose to work with either sc or hdc (half double
crochet)
Start Row / Round 1 : (using red)
:
with 30 fsc.
Keeping the fsc chain
flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Check out this video on how to keep your chain
flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length
Round 2 : (using red) :
2 sc in each of
the 30 fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60
sts)
Round 3 : (using yellow) :
sc in each
of the 60 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60
sts)
Round 4 : (using red) :
sc in the 1st
sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (90
sts)
Fasten off.
PART 7 : TINY CAP
Make one
Going by the photograph again, I chose to work
with yellow.
Start Round 1 : with a magic
circle and 6 sc in the circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc
; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9
sts)
Rounds 3 & 4 : sc in each
of the 9 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9
sts)
Round 5 : 2 sc in the 1st sc
; sc in the next 2 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Rounds 6 - 8 : sc in each
of the 12 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12
sts)
Round 9 : 2 sc in the 1st sc
; sc in the next 3 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (15
sts)
Round 10 : sc in each of the 15 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (15
sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fold the last row over to create a folded edge
to your cap. Do not stuff.
PART 8 : ASSEMBLY
Going by the photograph again, start putting the
body parts together.
In case you are making the stocking net balls, keep them
all ready before you start stuffing.
Needless to say, ensure that your stocking net is the same / similar
colour as your yarn.
What is a stocking net ball? This is just a small ball of poly fill stuffing that I stuff into a stocking net. So instead of stuffing the poly fill directly into the amigurumi (and having it sneak out of the spaces between the stitches) I make small balls of poly fill and stuff them into net .. and then stuff these stocking net balls into my amigurumi. Sew the top up and you have a neat little ball
Just ensure that you use a stocking net of a similar color to your amigurumi so that the net and stuffing don't show through
A) Stuff
the face, push a little into the snout to get it standing up a bit
B) Attach
on the over-large ears.
C) Attach
the eyes – use either readymade eyes or small pieces of felt in white and black
like I did.
D) Using
an embroidery needle and some black yarn, make two cute eyebrows for your lil
Dumbo.
E) Stuff
the body.
F) Attach
on the legs and arms. Keep the legs such
that when you place Dumbo down, he sits.
G) Now
attach the tail – centre back. The tail
will also give Dumbo a little stability – so ensure he is able to lean back on
it.
H) Place
head on body and approximately mark / see where you need to place the scarf.
I) Place
the scarf and stitch it down lightly.
J) Attach
the head onto the body and before you tie it all down, ensure that the scarf is
neatly tucked in to your satisfaction.
Neatly attach head and scarf to body.
K) Attach
the tiny yellow cap at a cocky angle on one side of the head. Even when Dumbo is sitting flat, the cap will
give his head a cute cocked angle.
L) The
designer has managed to attach on nails onto the arms and feet of Dumbo. I did not find anything suitable and preferred
to keep this ‘kid-safe’ – but do go ahead and add on nails if you can.
M) Fasten
off and glue in all ends.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come
back right here for more freebie patterns
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/
OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/
Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas
And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.
Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas
Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/
Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/
Have a great day and see you soon.
I have a few toys / amigurumi already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and some home use / miscellaneous free patterns ...
