AWW-SOMELY CUTE BUNNY RABBIT TOY
I started
making a few teddy bears for a charity drive and that has started me on my toys
/ amigurumis and more fun. I am not
going to think about where these little dolls are head – but they are sure
going to make one little kid happy and spread a few smiles.
Thank you for joining me.
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However, this is not in English and
I’ve tried to use this as a guideline and make one myself. I do not take any credit for this pattern –
as all I am doing is trying to transcribe the notes as I make my own project..
and here are my notes.
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size :
5” (head to toe) x 3” (arm to arm)
Skill level :
Easy - Intermediate.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Part 1 : Head :
For the head, we will start with the ‘body
colour’ of your choice. I guess the
‘regular choices’ will be white, off white and probably light pink?! We will use this same colour for part of the
body (the other part being the tee shirt), legs and arms.
Start : Round
1 : with
a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Round 2 : Increase
row :
2
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sc)
Round 3 : Increase
row :
2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sc)
Round 4 : Increase
row :
2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 2 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sc)
Round 5 : Increase
row : 2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 6 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 7 : Increase
row :
2
sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 4 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sc)
Round 8 - 12 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sc)
In the following round, we will decrease, using
the sc 2-tog.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Round 13 :
Decrease row :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 4 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 4
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 14 :
Decrease row :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 3 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sc)
Round 15 :
Decrease row :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 2
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sc)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining. Stuff
and keep aside.
Part 2 : Body :
For the body, we will start with the ‘body
colour’ and then change to a contrast colour for the tee-shirt.
Start using body colour : Round 1 :
with a magic circle and 6 sc in that
circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Round 2 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc
till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sc)
Round 3 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next
sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sc)
Round 4 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 2
sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sc)
Round 5 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 3
sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 6 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 7 :
Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
Fasten off body colour
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 8 :
Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
Work in back loops only
sc-blo in the 1st sc and in each sc
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30 sc)
Round 9 :
Decrease row : Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 3 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sc)
Round 10 :
Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sc)
Round 11 :
Decrease row : Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 2
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sc)
Round 12 :
Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 sc)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining.
Stuff and keep aside.
Part 3 : Ears : (Make two)
For the ears, we will start with the ‘body
colour’.
Round 1 : with
a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Round 2 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next
sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9 sc)
Round 3 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9 sc)
Round 4 :
Increase row :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 2
sc ;
(2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sc)
Round 5 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sc)
Round 6 :
Decrease row :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in
the next 2 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 2
sc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9 sc)
Round 7 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (9 sc)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining.
Stuff and keep aside. Repeat
instructions for the second ear too.
Part 4 : Arms : (Make two)
For the arms, we will start with the ‘body
colour’.
Round 1 : with
a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Round 2 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Rounds 3 - 6 : Using contrast tee-shirt colour :
(Fasten off
body colour)
sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 sc)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining.
Stuff and keep aside.
Repeat
instructions for the arm too.
Part 5 : Legs : (Make two)
For the legs, we will start with the ‘body
colour’.
Round 1 : with
a magic circle and 7 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (7 sc)
Round 2 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (7 sc)
Rounds 3 - 4 : sc
in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (7 sc)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining.
Stuff and keep aside.
Repeat
instructions for the arm too.
Part 6 : Finishing :
You have all your pieces ready : One head, one
body, two pairs of arms and two pairs of legs.
1. Stuff
all pieces.
After I'd made this piece, I've started using stocking net balls to stuff my toys and amigurumi. To make a stocking net ball, wrap a bit of stuffing in a piece of stocking net and then the top of the net. The stuffing not only stays inside the ball and does not creep out of the gaps in our stitching, but also adds to preventing allergies. Use similar colored stocking net as your yarn if you can - to keep colors from showing through
Here is what my stocking net ball looks like
2. Head
: Run a line of running stitch through the top . A running stitch is basically running your
yarn from front to back of the 1st sc ; then coming back to the
front in the next sc and going through the whole round this way. Do not back track – so that when you’re done,
one swift pull and you bring the top of the work together.
3. Head
:
Lightly tighten the opening to the head, ensuring that you stuff as needed to
get the shape. Run a few more lines of
running stitch or go back and forth to ensure the opening is secured. Fasten
off yarn.
4. Ears
: Place the ears evenly off the centre of the head. Secure the ears with pins and then neatly sew
them on. Fasten off yarns.
5. Body
: Run a row of running stitch through
the top but do not close completely.
6. Attach
head and body : Place the head over the opening of the body
and pass pins all around the sides to secure the two pieces together. Join the head and the body.
7. Legs
: Place the legs slightly off centre from the lower part of the body. Pin them up first and then stitch
around. I did not close the top opening,
but ran my stitches all around the top so that I got a flattish top attachment.
8. Arms
: Place arms on either side of the top part of the body. Pin them up first and then stitch
around. I did not close the top opening,
but ran my stitches all around the top so that I got a flattish top attachment.
9. Eyes
& Nose
: I made a small cross stitch for the nose dead centre of the face. I then added my eyes on either side of the
nose.
10. Tiny
tail
: I am not sure if there is a tail, but I wanted one, so I did a small French
knot stitch around the centre back of the body for a tiny little tail.
And this completes our awwsomely cute little
bunny rabbit. Go ahead and make a few
more – change the tee shirt color.. maybe experiment with different body
colours and have fun. Remember that
these make super gifts for charities and donations. I am sure there are some kids in your
neighbourhood that would love this little toy.
Smile, and make someone else’s day too.
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I have a few toys / amigurumi already made, and just
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