A NEAT LONG SHELLED COAT
Once again I return to my old fave (and
obviously that of my client’s as well!) ..
Shells ! This long jacket can be made into a short
bolero like creation and you can actually make this into a top as well.
One set of instructions that can create three
outfits.. Cool, huh?
I was really excited when I found that the pin
lead to something that read ‘step-by-step-how-to-crochet’ ; but sadly this blog
link only has the finished product photograph and a chart. I guess something was lost in translation.
I am not sure if there is a written explanation for this, but these are my notes as I work on this project for my client.
I am not sure if there is a written explanation for this, but these are my notes as I work on this project for my client.
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Inspired by this photo and https//yarncrochetsweater.blogspot.in/2016/01/
, here are my
pattern notes.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 200 gms of our
lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarn
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Optional : Stitch
marker
Size made : 34” bust ; 32” length
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Before we
start on our journey, as usual, let’s see what we’re going to do here.
The
pattern is a neat and pretty simple shell pattern that uses trc or Triple /
Treble crochet. Now I am going to write
the pattern out as charted, but I am going to be playing around with the
stitches in my own creation. I want it
to be less lacy and give the wearer a little warmth, while being a light,
filigree coat as well – so I am going to change some of the trc to dc , and
change the ch-sps too for my own creation.
However, I
am going to write the instructions as charted.
The
pattern is worked in panels – two for the front , one piece for the back and
two for for the sleeves.
The front
& back panels are rectangular and the armhole is not curved.
You can
opt for a circular neckline (as in the photograph) or you could work all the
way to the neckline and then allow it to flop back down like a collar.
Our
rectangle starts in a straight line from the armhole sides and we will work
towards the centre placket for the two front pieces. For the back, we will work one continuous
rectangle from side to side (or armhole to armhole).
The
sleeves are similarly two rectangles.
Back
Start
Row 1 :
with a row
of fsc in multiples of 18 + 9 for the length you need from the full
length of the jacket.
Remember there is a small border
that will also add to the length and width (border will add to width only for
the front panels).
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Row
2 :
trc in the
1st fsc ; ch 4, sk next 4
fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
*ch 8, sk
next 8 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to*
till the last 4 fsc ;
ch 4, sk next 4 fsc, trc in the last fsc. Turn.
Row
3 :
trc in the
1st trc ; [trc in the next
ch-4 sp ;
(ch 2, trc in the same ch-4 sp) ; rep (to) once] ;
*ch 2, sc
in the next ch-8 sp ; ch 2, trc in the next ch-8 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to*
till the last ch-4 sp ;
rep [to] in the last ch-4 sp. Turn.
Row
4 :
trc in the
1st trc ;
[ch 5, sk
next 2 trc + ch-2 sp, trc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*ch 5, sk
next 2 trc and two ch-2 sps, trc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep
*to* till the end, ending with one rep of [to].
Row
5 :
dc in the
1st trc ; sk next ch-4 sp , [trc
in the next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 2, trc in the same ch-4 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times] ;
*ch 2, sc
in the next trc ; ch 2, sk next ch-4 sp, trc in the next ch-4 sp ;
rep (to) 5
times* ;
rep *to*
till the last ch-4 sp ;
ch 2, sk the last ch-4 sp, dc in the last trc. Turn.
Row
6 :
trc in the
1st dc ; ch 2, sk next trc,
trc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 5, sk
next 2 trc + ch-2 sp, trc in the next ch-2 sp] ; rep [to] once ;
*ch 5, sk
next 2 trc and two ch-2 sps, trc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep
*to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
trc in that last ch-2 sp ; ch 2, trc in the last
dc.
Row
7 :
trc in the
1st trc ; trc in the next
ch-2 sp ;
(ch 2, trc in the same ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 2, sc in
the next trc ;
*ch 2,
[trc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 2, trc in the same ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times]
;
ch 2, sc
in the next trc* ;
rep *to*
till the last ch-2 sp ;
ch 2 , trc in the last ch-2 sp ; rep (to) 2 times in
the last ch-2 sp ; trc in the last trc.
Turn.
Rep Rows 4
– 7 ; ending with a Row 4 or 6 ; till
you have half the round chest / waist / hip measure (whichever is the largest
of the measures, as we need this to close around the front)
Now as
we’re working the back section, we will work a straight-line ending row.
So for our
last row, we’ll work a row of sc in stitches and ch-sps, ensuring that we end
with the same number of stitches that you started with.
Fasten off
and weave in ends.
Front
: Make 2
The main
difference with the fronts and back is the ending. You will end with either a Row 4 or 6 but do not
work a row of sc after this, as we’ll work a border all around the two sides
and bottom of the work.
We also
need a small decrease for the neckline, so start and work the pattern as for
the back, but when you reach the neckline, follow the instructions for the Neckline
decrease below.
Neckline
decrease idea :
As you’ve
worked so many rows of this pattern by now, you know how simple this is. So here’s what I have done for my
neckline.
Decide the
depth & width of your neckline and place a marker at that point.
Remember
that we have a small border along the top of the neckline as well, which will
add to the depth (or take away from the depth) of your neckline, so please
factor that in as well when placing your marker.
So your
question : How do
I factor that extra border in? We will
be working about 4 rows (again depending on how broad you want this border) of
dc along the neckline edge. So check how
many inches 4-dc rows are with the yarn and work-tension that you have. So say your 4-dc row = 2” and you want a finish
of 7” from the shoulders (for neckline), then you will work till you are about
9” from the neckline, and you will then work the 2” of border to give you a
finish of 7” from shoulder. Got it?
As I
always encourage creativity and difference, may I also suggest that you could
work a hdc , e-sc or sc in each stitch around the border as well (instead of a
dc), and if you are going to do that, then obviously it is this stitch that you
will need to swatch and check… but you did know that.
Right then, you will work the pattern all the way to that point and back down to the base of your jacket. You will get a neat square neckline by just doing this.
If your
marker happens to fall in the middle of a shell, then you work half the number
of stitches in that shell – so instead of 6 dc + ch-1 sps, you will work 3 dc
and ch-1 sps and then 1 dc for the last st (as we do for the start /end of our
alternate shell rows here)
If your
marker happens to fall in the sc between 2 shells, then you will work a dc in
that sc and then work back down to the base of your jacket.
The most important thing is that your write whatever you are doing for one side down so that you are able to mirror these instructions for the other side as well.
Once
you’ve done both sides of the front, you should attach first the shoulders and
then the sides.
Remember when attaching sides, there
is a sleeve that needs to fit in, so keep that space for the sleeve that we are
about to work in now.
You could
also decide to work the two sleeve panels as well, and then attach the whole
creation in one single movement.
Choices..
decisions.. as usual
Sleeves
: Make 2
The main
difference with the sleeves and the front/back panels is the number of
stitches.
Calculate
the round armhole measure and work a pair of rectangular panels for the
sleeves.
You will
end with either a Row 4 or 6 but do not work a row of sc after this, as we’ll
work a border all around the bottom of the sleeve panel as well.
Joining
:
Once
you’ve completed the two sleeeves, two front panels and one back panel, you
could join the shoulders, and then the sleeves and sides.
We will
then work a shelled border along the fronts and bottom of your coat, as well as
the ends of your sleeves.
Shelled
border :
The
shelled border is the same pattern as the pattern for Rows 5 & 7. So starting in one corner of the front panel,
work your way down that panel, around the base of your jacket and up the other
front panel.
You will
then work the same shelled border around the two sleeve edges as well.
Neckline
border :
The neckline
border is a row of plain dc.
Attach
your yarn at one end of the front panel, and we will work back acoss the back
and then across the other front panel.
Work a row
of dc / hdc or sc all around the neckline, keeping it in the square shape
you’ve made or by rounding off the square ends and making it a little rounded.
Ensure
that you work as many rows as needed to bring the neckline up to the height you
need.
Fasten off
and weave in ends.
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and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
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