CUADRADO
DE FLORES BOLERO
This
is a lovely lacy bolero made with the ubiquitous (granny) square. Each little motif has this exquisite flower
motif and the whole combination is just … ohhh!!
Use this basic motif pattern to make a blanket too.. read on for the 'how to'.
Use this basic motif pattern to make a blanket too.. read on for the 'how to'.
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And inspired by this photo, here are my
pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used :
Today
I’ve used ~ 400 gms of All Seasons Ganga Hobby India 2-ply acrylic yarn with a 3
mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; Mod Podge to stiffen motif
Note : Mod Podge will not work / stiffen acrylic
Note : Mod Podge will not work / stiffen acrylic
(for XXL size 38").
Size given only for approximation of yarn.
You can use any yarn with any hook to make this to any size.
Size given only for approximation of yarn.
You can use any yarn with any hook to make this to any size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill
level.
This
floral motif pattern uses basic stitches, but you need to know how to join
motifs as you go.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
My
client gave me this lovely photograph (below) and asked me to recreate it. I am not sure if this is the chart for this
stunning creation. As I found the chart on a Spanish space, thought the name befitted the creation :)
These
are the notes for what I have done.
The
pattern is worked one motif at a time.
To work this pattern, you need to know how to join motifs ‘as you
go’. This means that on that last round
for the 2nd and all following motifs, you will join ‘seamlessly’ as
you work.
It
does not matter if you do not know how to do this.. and you can always work one
motif at a time, finish off and go back to join them all up – it’s just that
with a lacy creation like this, it is well worth that you try to join as you go
– neater finish and lighter end product.
Check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.
So
first off measurements :
1.
Round
waist or Round bust measure : Choose the larger of the two measurements.
2.
Length
of top : If making for general sale, then I’d just go with general body size
measurements. Make one your size, and then you’ll figure it out doubly quick –
and get a lovely project for yourself as well J Cool huh?
3.
Sleeve
Length : to be measured from end of shoulder to end of arm – for as long as you
want the sleeve. As we are not shaping
for armhole, imagine that we would be creating a rectangle – so the sleeve will
fall straight down from shoulder. Got
it?
Ok.. now with all measurements in
hand.. lets’ start
Now I suggest that you work one back
and two front pieces – but if you are an advanced crocheter, you could also
work all in one piece from front to back and then around to the other side
front again.
It does not affect the pattern how
you work – as we are joining as we go.
Do remember though, that if you are
working in one piece, you need to keep that armhole opening to insert in the
sleeve.
So the simpler method – work as many
square floral motifs as you need for the back – it will be a rectangle.
This will give you a template to work the two halves of the front.
This will give you a template to work the two halves of the front.
Join the sides of the front and back
as you go and leave the armhole opening.
The sleeve is again motifs worked in
a rectangle – and you will join the motifs for the sleeve and then join the
sleeve motif around the armhole to the armhole opening of the jacket too.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 12 sc
in that circle.
Pull lightly to close.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 3, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-3 sp ; 4 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 2, 4 dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
In
the following round, we will use a dc 6-tog over the 6-dc we’ve just
worked.
If
you have worked a dc 4-tog or a dc 5-tog, the dc 6-tog is the same – just work
it over 6 sts.
Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA
Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
Round 5 : dc 6-tog over in the 1st
6 dc ;
(ch 7, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 7, dc 6-tog over the
next 6 dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 7, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
In the following round, we will convert this circle
into a square.
Now just for your convenience, you could place four
markers to mark the four corners. So we
have 12 ‘petals’ to our flower so far.. we will have four corners, which means
every 4th petal is a corner.
Got it?
Again, for your convenience, we will start at a
corner.
Now the other thing that you can do is work a trc
(treble / triple crochet stitch) for the final round. This will mean that your square is lighter
and lacier and you will also have a larger square. A larger square also means that you will
finish faster. So check out what works
for you.
I am writing the pattern in dc – but like I said, go
create and be different J
Depending
on which stitch you are using, check the top of this blog for a dc 3-tog or a
trc 3-tog.
Triple / Treble crochet 3-tog : trc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/O8HM5j8ZXHw
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-7 sp, dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-7 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-7 sp ;
*(ch 7, sc in the next ch-7 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 7, dc 3-tog in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-7 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 7, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
This is one little floral motif.
The pattern for the next motif is the same –
you will just join as you go.
What does this mean?
For joining the 2nd motif to the 1st,
you will only join along one side. For
that you will work a ch 3, then join with the ch-7 sp of the 1st
motif, and work a ch 3 and continue with pattern for the 2nd motif
that you are working on. That is your
first join. You will continue working
this way till you have joined one full side of Motif 2 to Motif 1. At each corner, you will work a ch 2, join to
the earlier motif ; ch 2, and join back with the motif you are working on.
When you have finished one strip and need to join along 2 sides, you work along the same principles - just keep the motifs together side by side, and ensure they are all facing the same way up. It does not matter if they are facing up or down.. as long as they are all facing the same way.
Remember that each corner is a ch-5 sp. In case this is getting confusing, go ahead
and make each corner a ch-7 sp, and then you need not fuss about the
joins. It does not matter if you add 2
ch per corner. I just prefered it this
way, so have written it as such.
How many do you join together?
This depends on the length and width of your
project. I would suggest that you work
along the width first (i.e side to side) and then work up towards the shoulders
to get the length (i.e top to bottom).
Blanket idea :
Now if you decide to make this into a blanket, all you need to do is work the individual squares and then join them as you go as you. You just join as many as you need for the length and breadth of your blanket and you are done. As this has a lovely ch-sp ending, you can end it as it.. or you can work 5 sc in each ch-5 sp all and work the corners with the same corner st, but using sc instead of dc. Add in a few picot as you go along, and you have a gorgeous blanket.
Come along then .. let your creativity flow.
Blanket idea :
Now if you decide to make this into a blanket, all you need to do is work the individual squares and then join them as you go as you. You just join as many as you need for the length and breadth of your blanket and you are done. As this has a lovely ch-sp ending, you can end it as it.. or you can work 5 sc in each ch-5 sp all and work the corners with the same corner st, but using sc instead of dc. Add in a few picot as you go along, and you have a gorgeous blanket.
Come along then .. let your creativity flow.
Picot :
(sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Ok and now to continue with our jacket / bolero
Sleeve stitch addition
A small calculation for our sleeves
1.
Look at your sleeve length and try to calculate a
gauge. A gauge is checking how many
dc make up say 1”.
2.
Using this gauge, try to calculate how many stitches
you’d need for the sleeve length you want.
How does this work?
Say you have 8 stitches per 1”, and you want a sleeve length of 9” ;
then you will work (8 x 9 = 72 sts). Got
it?
For our sleeve, we will be adding chain in multiples
of 8 each side.
If you can add fsc here, then you will add with exact
multiples of 8.
If you are adding chain, you will add it in multiples
of 8 + 2. We will work our 1st
dc in the 3rd ch from hk and that will be our 1st dc.
So with the above example, when you end with Row 6, you
will add 72 chain (+2 for that 1st dc).
1.
Once you have worked out how many stitches you need for
the sleeve, you will complete Row 6 and then add that many chain in multiples
of 8 + 1 for this side.
2.
Fasten off and re-attach your yarn at the last st of
this same Row 6 on the other side, and add chain in multiples of 8 + 1
for the second side.
3.
Fasten off and re-attach your yarn back at the other
end. You need to do this to get the dc
all facing the same direction when you re-start your pattern.
4.
To start the pattern, rep Row 2 once.
5.
The only difference in reading the instructions
is that for one part you will be working in fsc and not fdc, and for the centre
(body) portion, you know the pattern – but if you want a reference, it is the
pattern from Row 6 (and yes, this is the same pattern rep from Row 2 J )
6.
Rep pattern from Rows 3 – 6 again for half the round
armhole measure or half the round sleeve measure.
7.
Once you have the round armhole / sleeve done, you
should have reached the shoulder level.
8.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part
2 : Fronts
We
work two front portions for this bolero.
The
pattern is worked exactly as you have for the front – but I’ll just review
items that you should keep in mind.
1.
You
are working only for half the back – so start with half the number of stitches
as you did for back
2.
You
will still keep the stitch count in multiples of 8 + 1 for the body
portion
3.
For
the sleeves, you will work only one sleeve at a time, so your stitch count will
be in multiples of 8 + 3 and as before you will work your 1st
st in the 3rd ch from hk.
4. Keep a note
of the number of stitches you are using at all times.
Part
3 : Lower portion of bolero
Before
we work on the lower portion of our bolero, here are a few thoughts / ideas.
1.
Would
you like to attach the lower portion?
2.
Would
you like to work 2 fronts and 1 back?
Depending
on what you decide here are ideas.
1.
Attaching lower portion : For a
fitted end result, you could work the lower portion of the bolero as one
piece. For this, you will first need to
attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then join the two sides of your fronts
and back, to get one single top portion for your bolero. Then re-attach your yarn at one side, and
work the lower portion all in one round, seamlessly.
2.
Working 2 fronts and 1 back : You will
still get a fitted end result, but you will need to add buttons and a button
placket along the front edge. In this
case, you will re-attach your yarn at one back edge, work back and forth till
you finish the length needed for the back.
You will then repeat that many lines / pattern for both of your front
halves. After you have completed the
front and back portions, you will attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then
the two sides all the way down. You will
finally attach a button placket to the front edges, ensuring you make button
holes along one side to complete.
Now
no matter what your decision, the pattern stays the same. I will just tell you what to do pattern-wise.
Please attach your yarn etc, as outlined above.
Keep
your work such that you are back at the 1st fdc row. If you are working in rounds, may I suggest
that you re-attach your yarn such that you have the right side facing and your
1st dc row faces right side up.
If
working with 2 fronts and 1 back, and attaching buttons, it does not matter, as
you will be working side to side anyway.
For the two fronts may I suggest that
you pin the last two stitches together, so that you are able to get them like a
neat “V” when you pick up stitches.
Please
note that we will start numbering from Row / Round 1 again.
Row / Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc
all the way to the end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row / Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all
the way to the end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep
Row / Round 2 till you have the length needed for your bolero.
Hope
you have fun creating this lovely bolero as well.
and now for some major photo bombing.. with this awesomely cute kitty cat (which is up for adoption, by the way.. Mumbaikars.. lemme know please)
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
