MY CENTENARIAN SHAWL
A friend mentioned
that her ma-in-law was turning a hundred years old next month
Wow, that’s a grand
age.. and I hear she's going to meet the Queen (yes, she's in England). Isn't that lovely ?
I was fortunate
to have made a shawl for another hundred year old about a year back, but didn’t
write that pattern up. This time around, here are my notes, so let’s share this
one around.
I chose this pattern as I loved that it can be worn with either side facing. The use of fpdc's gives it a grand effect, and then the other side is just as lovely too, and the uniqueness of this pattern made it just right for a unique Centenarian lady.
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This will be superb with our Indian Anchor cotton and a 3.5 – 4 mm crochet hook too.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced skill level
Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over sk : Skip
fpdc : Front post double crochet
Instructions :
There are so many patterns on the net, but I found this freebie
that I found on Pinterest with a convenient chart.
We start with a magic circle that will be the
centre back spine, and will be that part that fits right under the neck.
We will then work our way down the shawl,
ending with this absolutely stunning border.
Itching to get started, so let’s do it.
Start with a
magic circle and 20 dc in that circle.
Pull lightly, but do not close.
Leave your circle as a semi-circle.
Turn.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till last
dc. Turn.
In our following row, we’ll use our fpdc (Front
Post Double Crochet)
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, fpdc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till last dc
;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 5, sk the next ch-2 sp , sc in the next ch-2 sp)
;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 12, sk next three ch-2 sps ;
sc in the next ch-2
sp ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 5, sk next ch-2 sp and dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
20 dc in the next ch-12 sp ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
9 dc in the last ch-5 sp ;
dc in
the last dc. Turn
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ;
[sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next
dc ;
rep (to) in the next 19 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to)
in the last 9 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, fpdc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ; sc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) in the next 20 dc ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) in the next 9 dc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 5, sk the next ch-2 sp , sc in the next ch-2 sp)
;
rep (to) 3 times ;
[ch 5, sk next two ch-2 sps and sc , sc in the next
ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times] ;
ch 12, sk next three ch-2 sps, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5, sk next ch-2 sp and dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
[10 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
20 dc in the next ch-12 sp ;
sc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
9 dc
in the last ch-5 sp ;
dc in the last dc.
Turn
Row 9 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ;
[sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ dc in the next dc , rep (to) in the next 9 dc ; rep
[to] once } ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) in
the next 19 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
rep { to } once ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) in the last 9
dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, fpdc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ fpdc in the next
dc ,
rep (to) in the next 9 dc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp
} ;
fpdc in the next dc ,
rep (to) in the next 19 dc ;
sc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
rep { to }
once ;
fpdc in the next dc ;
rep (to) in the next 8 dc ;
ch 2, dc in the last
dc. Turn.
So how was this bit ? I love the design.. such
an amazing pattern thus far.
Detail of fpdc side Detail of the other side
Now this is where we need to make a few
decisions.
The chart shows the next section that has a
plainer and simpler pattern of just dcs in each ch-sp.
The beauty of this bit is that it’s easy and
will add to the light, laciness of our end product and depending on how large
you want it, I guess you can increase this space.
The border pattern is a repeat of what we’ve
created thus far.
OR you can continue with the pattern we’ve
worked with till now.
Our pattern repeat
for this section will be Rows 7 to 10.
Please remember though that as our project is
growing, we’ll be adding one ‘shell’ every four rows (or pattern repeat), so
the instructions will change that little bit.. but I’m sure you’ve figured that
out too.
If you’ve decided to go with the lacy centre bit
(as per chart), then follow on below.
OK.. so back to work then..
Row 11 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 2, sk next fpdc and
ch-2 sp , 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[sk next two
ch-2 sps, and rep (to) 5 times] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2 , { 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc } in
the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to]
till end. Turn.
Note : In the
last 2 dc in the last repeat, do 1 dc in that last ch-2 sp and then next dc in
the last dc… to mimic how we started this row.
Now the middle spine of our shawl is
the { 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc }
that we’ve just done. May I suggest you
place a marker in this ch-2 sp, and we will do the same { to } in these ch-2 sps for this
full section.
Row 12 : 2
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, sk next 2
dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] till the middle spine / marked ch-2
sps ;
{ 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc } in the ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] till end. Turn.
Once again, remember that we will mimic the
start, and do the 2 dc in the last dc.
Rows 13 - 17 : Rep
Row 12
Row 18 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 6, sk next ch-2 sp and 2 dc, sc in the next ch-2
sp ;
*ch 6, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the ch-2 sp
before the centre spine or markers ;
ch 6, sk next ch-2 sp and 1 dc ;
dc in the
next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 6, sk next dc and ch-2 sp, sc in the
next ch-2 sp ;
rep *to* till the second last ch-2 sp ;
ch 6, sk the next 2 dc
and last ch-2 sp ;
sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Remember to mimic the starting with the ending
bit.
Row 19 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*[10 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till the centre spine ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep
*to* till end. Turn.
Row 20 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ;
[sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
*dc in the next
dc ;
rep (to) in the next 9 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the centre
spine ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) in the next 9 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 21 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, fpdc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 8
dc ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
* fpdc in the next dc ;
rep (to) in the next 9 dc
;
sc in the next ch-5 sp * ;
rep *to* till the centre spine ;
ch 2, dc in the
next dc ;
rep (to) in the next 9 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Finishing :
A lovely shawl always needs a lovely finish.
Though both the chart and finished shawl do not show it, I think a lovely picot
edging would just perfectly end and tie this all up.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
One could also add beads (as I have)
to add a little bling to this already beautiful creation. I’ve added my beads in a Row 20 repeat, and
all I did was to add the bead in the ch-2 sps.
For this I did (ch 1, ADD BEAD, ch 1 and dc in the next dc).
But I’m sure you know how to add
beads.
And just in case you are trying to work out how
to thread your beads onto your yarn, then here’s a lovely video link
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Block as per yarn requirements.. and then do
show your lovely work off. Please do tag
me on Facebook when you finish your product, as I’d love to see your creation(s).
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
and some boleros / jacket / vests ...
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/crocheting/accessory/tie-em-up-scarf--wrap/107592
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