Saturday, 26 December 2015

MARGA’s FLORAL TOP

MARGA’s FLORAL TOP

When I saw this pattern on some Pinterest board, I just loved it.. and I had a laugh as I recall, not too long ago, telling my friend that I disliked motifs and that I steered clear of them.. that said off late, I’ve done so many projects with motifs, that it’s pretty funny. Guess this is what they mean when they say ‘never say never?’ 

That said, just look at this top.. I mean, how can one resist it.. I rest my case!

This is not my original pattern. I found this photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.



Materials used : Today I’ve used our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                       dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                              ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                              rep : Repeat

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  This is a lovely pattern using motifs.  So we’ll make our first motif, measure it and then figure out how many one needs to fit the person for whom this top is intended.  Simple, right.. so let’s get on with it.
Please note that these are my notes, and sometimes as I am making the motif or pattern, I tend to tweak it to suit either my yarn or pattern, and the chart may differ.. so you may see, say a ch-5 and I’ve written do a ch 4.. so do feel free to choose either.  Just thought I’d add this in, as I am changing the chain spaces and distances between stitches.

Now our motifs make up the top yoke of the top and once we’ve got the yoke done, we’ll work on the lower part of our top.  So we’re working this top from the shoulders down.

MOTIF PATTERN
Start with a magic circle and 16 sc in that circle. Join to the 1st st.
You are now in the corner ch-4 sp, just where we need to be for the next round.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; *ch 5, sk next sc ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc) all in the same ch-5 sp ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next dc ; [ch 3, 2 dc ; ch 9, 2 dc] all in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ; rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And just like that.. we’re done with our first motif.. how easy and beautiful is this? Love it.



So let’s get calculations for our top.  
Measure this motif you’ve made, and work out how many you’d need to work the width of your top.

For the next motifs, we will attach in our following Round 2 and we will join-as-we-go with the ch-sps of Round 2.  Now in Round 2, we have a ch-5 sp and a ch-9 sp.
So let me write out the instructions just for that round.
For all following Round 2, I will label this round as Round 2 A

Round 2A : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc ; ch 2, join to the ch-5 sp of earlier motif, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same ch-5 sp ; *ch 3, sc in the next dc ; [ch 3, 2 dc ; ch 4, join to the ch-9 sp of earlier motif, ch 4, 2 dc] all in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ; rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  




So this is pretty and pretty easy too, right.
So go ahead and join up your motifs till you work the yoke part of your top.
Remember that you need to keep an opening for the neck portion of the top. 
There is a chart given for the attachment of the motifs for the yoke, which is a great guide.  Working along these lines, join the motifs till you have your yoke worked out.



Once you’ve done the yoke part of the top, we’ll work our way down the top to the base of our top.



We will start with a row / round of dc.
Now we can either join our two sides and work in a round, or we can work in rows, and one side at a time, joining the sides at the end.
I will write the instructions row-wise (as if we’re working sides separately) and you decide how you want to work this out.


Part 2 : Lower part of the top
In the following row, we will be using only the ch-5 or ch-9 sps.  Now besides the corner ch-9 sps, all the other ch-9 sps are the ones that join two motifs together.  So it is that sc that joins these two ch-9 sps that we will use.


Row 1 : ch 3, sc in the 1st corner ch-9 sp ; ch 9, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 9, sc in the next ch-9 sp-join ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-9 sp-join ; ch 9, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 9, sc in the next ch-9 sp-join* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : ch 3, dc in the 1st sc ; 
*8 dc in the next ch-9 sp ; dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

From our next row on, we’ll start with our “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 3 : sk 1st 8 dc , ch 3, sk next 6 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; 
*sk next 4 dc, ”V”-st in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till last 14 dc , ch 3, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next dc.  Turn.

In this row, we will work on the 1st dc (or 1st leg)of the 1st “V”-st, so when we say 1st dc, it’s that 1st leg of the 1st “V”-st.

Row 4 : sk all sts till the 1st “V”-st , dc in the 1st leg of the 1st “V”-st ; 3 dc in the ch-3 sp ; 1 dc in the next dc (which is the 2nd leg of the “V”-st) ; 
*dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc of the last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 5 : ch 3, sk next 6 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; 
*sk next 4 dc, ”V”-st in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till last 6 dc , ch 3, sk next 5 dc, sc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : sk all sts till the 1st “V”-st , dc in the 1st leg of the 1st “V”-st ; 3 dc in the ch-3 sp ; 1 dc in the next dc (which is the 2nd leg of the “V”-st) ; 
*dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc of the last “V”-st.  Turn.

The designer has not stopped the decrease and is going to work in straight rows from the 1st dc.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc ; 
*sk next 4 dc, ”V”-st in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till last 5 dc , ch 3, sk next 4 dc, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 :  dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the ch-3 sp ; 1 dc in the next dc (which is the 2nd leg of the “V”-st) ; 
*dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till the end.Turn.

Rep Rows 7 and 8 till your project is of the length desired ; ending with a Row 8.
Now for our final row, you could end like Row 8, or do a variation with picots.  So in case you decide on the picots, then every alternate dc will have a picot at the end of it.  Simple enough, right?


We will use the 3-ch picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 1st ch).  Check the link above for a “how-to” for picot stitch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all instructions of Part 2 for the other side of your top as well.

Finishing :

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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