Monday, 17 November 2014

OH-CHO-CHWEET PINEAPPLE DRESS

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OH-CHO-CHWEET PINEAPPLE DRESS


Cheesy title.. ummm ok.. it ‘could’ be .. but come onnnnnn.. it is oh-cho-chweet a baby dress, isn’t it? Yet another one that you’re just going to have to make.. (sorry about that.. not my fault.. lets blame this on the cuteness of the dress !),  or put on that on a ‘must-make-sometime-soon’ list !! 

And if you’ve got a list like that as well.. welcome to my world !! I just about start on one dress and tada .. someone shares yet another beautiful one the very same moment.. seems like I can’t work fast enough .. but I’m not complaining.. I am enjoying every minute of the ‘figurin out’ and the creating.. and guess you are too.. as you’ve joined me here , yet again! J

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

You can make this pattern to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.  As always, I request you to please read through all the instructions and links before you pick up your hook. Happy crafting.


Materials used : Oswal Baby 3-ply yarn  ~ 100 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook
This is a really light dress, so I think 3 ply or 4 ply (light fingering or fingering weight) yarns will work best to show off the lacy effect.

Size made : W : 24” ; L : 20"  for a 12- 18 month old
Gauge : One “V”-st (across) = 0.5” x One “V”-st row (high) = 0.75” (or just under 1")

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

“V”-stitch :”V”-st : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
                                   


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
As mentioned at the start, you can make this dress to any size, using any yarn and suitable hook. Just ensure that you get the stitch count right for the measure needed for your child.

This dress is worked top down.  We start with the yoke and work down to the skirt portion of our dress.
Given at the top of this blog are neck sizing charts and yoke sizing as well.  While I am working this for the size specified above, you can use the charts and sizes given there to adapt it to the size you want.



PART 1 : YOKE
We will start working in rows for part (or whole) of the yoke so that we get a small button placket around the back.  I usually suggest that you work a longer button placket opening (all down the  yoke, or till waist) for younger children, for ease.  That said, you can decide to have a smaller opening.  If you so decide, join at the end of the row you think is sufficient for the placket opening, and continue working the pattern in rounds.

Start with 97 fsc (pattern is in multiples of 5 + 2)

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in next fsc ; ch 2, sk next fsc, dc 2-tog in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till last 2 fsc, and dc in that last fsc (instead of an dc-2 tog).  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

We’ll now give our cute neckline a shape, so let’s mark off our four ‘corners’. 
So with our opening around the back, place your 1st marker in the 4th ch-5 sp ; 
sk three ch-5 sps and place 2nd marker in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sk seven ch-5 sps and place 3rd marker in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sk three ch-5 sps and place last marker in ch-5 sp ; 
and you should have four ch-5 sps left till end.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*{ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} till 1st marker ; 
(dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
dc in that last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ; {ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog} ; 
rep {to} 2 times ; 
(ch 5, sc in next dc 2 tog ; ch 5, sc in next dc 2-tog ; ch 5, sc in next dc 2-tog) all in that 1st marked set of 2 dc 2-togs ; 
rep {to} 3 times ; 
rep (to) once till the 2nd marker ; 
rep {to} 7 times ; 
rep (to) once till the 3rd marker ; 
rep {to} 3 times ; 
rep (to) once till the last marker ; 
rep {to}  till end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Right, so we’ve got our four ‘corners’, and we have our three dc 2-tog sets marking each corner.  

Now, with we’re going to work a few rows of repeats – (repeating rows 3 & 4) – so let’s see what we’re going to repeat.

The corner three dc 2-tog set : The middle dc 2-tog is the one that is the perfect corner.  
So all increases (ie in the next row – Row 5, when you increase), are done in that stitch.  
There will be a neat seam that forms along that end shortly.

OK.. so let’s go ahead and rep Rows 3 & 4 four times, (ensuring that our repeats are just in that middle dc 2-tog), or till we have this yoke that is about 3.5” long.  
We will then shape off the armholes and continue to increase the  yoke a little more.  
So once again, let’s mark off our corners.  
This time, our ‘corner’ is the centre dc 2-tog of the three dc 2-tog sets in each section.  
So what we are going to do is go from the back till the first marker, and then skip across to the next marker, we will then go around to all the front till the 3rd marker, and skip across to the last marker – and finally complete the last bit of our yoke back.  
After this row, our work will proceed in rounds.  
The little opening at the back will be the button placket.

Before you proceed with the skirt, do fasten off the shoulders and do the little placket for the button as well, and we'll then work in rounds for the skirt.  

Round 13 : sc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
sc in the last dc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Remember that in each corner, we’re going to work sc in the 1st dc 2-tog (there are three dc-2 togs in each corner), and then ch 5 and sc in the next dc 2-tog, we will then sk that last dc 2-tog of the 1st corner, and the first dc 2-tog of the next corner, and then use the next two dc 2-togs of that corner.  
This we will repeat both sides of our yoke and then join at the end.



For convenience, we will restart round counts for the skirt

PART 2 : SKIRT
From here one we’ll be using one set of stitches a lot, so rather than have it up at the top, thought it would be simpler adding that here.. so we’ll call this a “V”-st and its (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Let me give you a few ideas to increase the flare of your dress, especially if you are making this dress for an older child and are going to have a longer skirt portion.
The options are
a) After a few rows, you could decide to add in a few dc into the "V"-st, so you could make it 
(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc)  ; and then later on add in another dc (i.e (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) 
b)  You could decide to increase the ch-spacing in the "V"-st when you add a dc in.  Remember that if you are going to increase dc, add them in a step at a time for continuity - so 3 dc before 4 dc.

Round 1 :  “V”-st in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*“V”-st in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; “V”-st in that 1st “V”-st ; ch 1 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ;  “V”-st in that 1st “V”-st  ; ch 2 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; “V”-st in that 1st “V”-st  ; ch 3 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 :  Rep Round 4

Round 6 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  8 dc in next ch-1 sp (of next “V”-st) ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  dc in the next dc, (ch 1 , dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp and dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 9 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 10 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; 
(sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 11 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;  
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ; ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 12 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ; ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 13 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; (sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 14 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 3, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 15 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 16 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*2 dc in “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;  rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in next “V”-st ; ch 1, sk ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Note : Now we need to be in the ch-1 sp just behind us.. so we could work this in two ways.. you could either sl-st all the way forward into the dc and start the pineapples, or do it my way, which is to TURN, sl-st into that ch-1 sp ; then TURN again (so we’re once again facing the way we want to be), and do the 1st “V”-st right here in this ch-sp. 
Assuming you’re opting for ‘my way’, I’m writing the pattern down accordingly J
                                                                                        
Round 17 :  sl-st into the ch-1 sp ; 
*“V”-st in the ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp and dc , sc in next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) ;  rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 18 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] in the “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 19 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] all in the ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  rep (to) 3 times; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 20 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  rep (to) 2 times; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 21 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 22 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 23 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 2, [2 dc ; ch 4, 2 dc] in next “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 24 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 25 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 25 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*2 dc in “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next dc , dc 3-tog in next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc 3-tog in next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3, 2 dc in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.



PART 3 : BORDER
There is a cute little border that runs all around the neckline and you could do it around the armhole as well.  Before you start on the border around the neckline, may I suggest that you run a round of sc all around.  

Our stitch count is in multiples of 2, so ensure that when you work your sc, get the stitch count right.

We will work  a (ch 3 + 2 dc) in the same 1st st ; 
*sk next st, rep (to) in the next st* ; 
rep *to*all the way around

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

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