This delicate sleeveless, square necked pineapple-patterned baby dress is just too cute and it's been a delight to get this free crochet pattern across to you. The pattern uses very basic stitches but if you have not worked the pineapple pattern before this then becomes an intermediate skill level for you - else it's easy. Yes I know the title is a bit cheesy title.. but come onnnnnn.. it is oh-cho-chweet a baby dress,
isn’t it? Yet another one that you’re just going to have to make.. (sorry
about that.. not my fault.. lets blame this on the cuteness of the dress
!), or put on that on a ‘must-make-sometime-soon’ list !! For today's project I've used some Indian Baby soft acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook but you can make this using any yarn and a suitable hook.
And if you’ve got a list like that as well.. welcome to my world !! I just about start on one dress and tada .. someone shares yet another beautiful one the very same moment.. seems like I can’t work fast enough .. but I’m not complaining.. I am enjoying every minute of the ‘figurin out’ and the creating.. and guess you are too.. as you’ve joined me here , yet again!
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about Indian Baby soft acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal 4-ply yarn ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
Size made : W : 24” ; L : 20"
for a 12- 18 month old
Gauge : One “V”-st (across) = 0.5” x One “V”-st row
(high) = 0.75” (or just under 1")
Gauge not essential - Gauge & size only for you to get an idea of yarn estimation
Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3,
sl-st in 3rd ch from hook).
For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from
hook).
Here’s
a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double
crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip
stitch ch
: Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
This is not my original pattern and it’s just
one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. These are my original notes, that I am sharing them with you as I make my own project.
You can make this pattern to any size, using any yarn with a suitable
hook.
As always, I request you to please read through
all the instructions and links before you pick up your hook.
As mentioned at the start, you can make this
dress to any size, using any yarn and suitable hook.
Just ensure
that you get the stitch count right for the measure needed for
your child.
This dress is worked top down.
We start with the yoke and work down to
the skirt portion of our dress.
Given at the top of this blog are neck sizing
charts and yoke sizing as well.
While I am working this for the size
specified above, you can use the charts and sizes given there to adapt it to
the size you want.
PART 1 : YOKE
We will start working in rows for part (or whole)
of the yoke so that we get a small button placket around the back.
I
usually suggest that you work a longer button placket opening (all down
the yoke, or till waist) for younger children, for ease.
That said,
you can decide to have a smaller opening.
If you so decide, join at the
end of the row you think is sufficient for the placket opening, and continue
working the pattern in rounds.
The stitch count for today's yoke is in multiples of 5 + 2
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with fsc in multiples of 5 + 2 for round neck of child.
I started with 97 fsc for my 12-month old
In the following row we will work a decorative stitch using the dc 2-tog.
Please check the top of this blog for a how to if needed.
Please note that this is a decorative stitch and not a
decrease.
We will, therefore work both "legs" of our dc 2-tog in the
same st, and not in 2 adjoining stitches.
So you will get a plump
bobble-like stitch that gives us the decorative effect.
Got it?
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in next fsc ;
ch 2, sk next fsc, dc 2-tog
in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 fsc,
and dc in that last fsc (instead of a dc-2 tog). Turn.
Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next
dc-2 tog* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
We’ll now give our cute neckline a shape, so let’s mark off our
four ‘corners’.
So with our opening around the back, place your 1st marker
in the 4th ch-5 sp ;
sk three ch-5 sps and place 2nd marker in the next
ch-5 sp ;
sk seven ch-5 sps and place 3rd marker in the next
ch-5 sp ;
sk three ch-5 sps and place last marker in ch-5 sp ;
and you should have four ch-5 sps left till end.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*{ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp}
;
rep {to} till 1st marker ;
(dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in that last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
{ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next
dc-2 tog} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
(ch 5, sc in next dc 2 tog ;
ch 5, sc in next dc 2-tog ;
ch 5, sc
in next dc 2-tog) all in that 1st marked set of 2 dc 2-togs
;
rep {to} 3 times ;
rep (to) once till the 2nd marker ;
rep {to} 7 times ;
rep (to) once till the 3rd marker ;
rep {to} 3 times ;
rep (to) once till the last marker ;
rep {to} till end ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Right, so we’ve got our four ‘corners’, and we have our three dc
2-tog sets marking each corner.
Now, with we’re going to work a few rows of repeats – (repeating rows 3 & 4) – so let’s see what we’re going to repeat.
The corner three dc 2-tog set : The
middle dc 2-tog is the one that is the perfect corner.
So all increases (ie in the next row – Row 5, when you increase),
are done in that stitch.
There will be a neat seam that forms along that end shortly.
OK.. so let’s go ahead and rep Rows 3 & 4 four times,
(ensuring that our repeats are just in that middle dc 2-tog), or till we have
this yoke that is about 3.5” long.
We will then shape off the armholes and continue to increase
the yoke a little more.
So once again, let’s mark off our corners.
This time, our ‘corner’ is the centre dc 2-tog of the three dc
2-tog sets in each section.
So what we are going to do is go from the back till the first
marker, and then skip across to the next marker, we will then go around to all
the front till the 3rd marker, and skip across to the last
marker – and finally complete the last bit of our yoke back.
After this row, our work will proceed in rounds.
The little opening at the back will be the button placket.
Before you proceed with the skirt, do fasten off the shoulders and
do the little placket for the button as well, and we'll then work in rounds for
the skirt.
Round 13 : sc in 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog* ;
rep *to* till end ;
sc in the last dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Remember that in each corner, we’re going to work sc in the 1st dc
2-tog (there are three dc-2 togs in each corner), and then ch 5 and sc in the
next dc 2-tog, we will then sk that last dc 2-tog of the 1st corner,
and the first dc 2-tog of the next corner, and then use the
next two dc 2-togs of that corner.
This we will repeat both sides of our yoke and then join at the
end.
For convenience, we will
restart round counts for the skirt
PART 2 : SKIRT
From here one we’ll be “V”-st which is (2
dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Let me give you a few ideas to increase the flare of your dress,
especially if you are making this dress for an older child and are going to
have a longer skirt portion.
The options are
a) After a few rows, you could decide to add in a few dc into the
"V"-st, so you could make it (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) ; and then later on add in another dc
(i.e (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc)
b) You could decide to increase the ch-spacing in the
"V"-st when you add a dc in.
Remember that if you are going to
increase dc, add them in a step at a time for continuity - so 3 dc before 4 dc.
Round 1 : “V”-st in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*“V”-st in the next sc ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st
; ch 1 ,
*“V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st ; ch 2 ,
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st ; ch 3 ,
*“V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 : Rep
Round 4
Round 6 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ;
ch 3 , 8 dc in next ch-1 sp (of next “V”-st) ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 7 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ;
ch 3 ,
dc in the next dc, (ch 1 , dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ; ch
3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 8 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3 sp and dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp
;
(ch 3 , sc in the next
ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 9 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3 , sc in the next
ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 10 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch
2, 2 dc] in the “V”-st ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3 sp ;
(sc in the next ch-3 sp
; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 11 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch
2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3 , sc in the next
ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 12 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch
3, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3 , sc in the next
ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 13 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ;
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3
sp ;
(sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 14 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
3, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3
sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 15 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3 , sk 1st ch-3
sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next sc,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 16 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*2 dc in “V”-st ;
ch 3,
dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next
“V”-st ;
ch 1, sk ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Note : Now
we need to be in the ch-1 sp just behind us.. so we could work
this in two ways.. you could either sl-st all the way forward into the dc and
start the pineapples, or do it my way :
which is to TURN,
sl-st into that ch-1 sp ;
then TURN again (so we’re once again
facing the way we want to be),
and work the 1st “V”-st right here
in this ch-sp.
Assuming you’re opting
for ‘my way’, I’m writing the pattern down accordingly
Round 17 : sl-st
into the ch-1 sp ;
*“V”-st in the ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp and dc , sc in next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in next ch-1
sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 18 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] in
the “V”-st ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 19 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch
2, 2 dc] all in the ch-2 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 20 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*“V”-st in ch-2 sp ;
ch
2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 21 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 22 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch
2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp,
sc in next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 23 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
2, [2 dc ; ch 4, 2 dc] in next “V”-st ;
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp,
sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 24 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sk next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 25 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in “V”-st ;
ch
3, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 3,
“V”-st in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 25 : sl-st
into the 1st “V”-st ;
*2 dc in “V”-st ;
ch 3,
sk next dc , dc 3-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, dc 3-tog in next
ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
PART 3 : BORDER
There is a cute little
border that runs all around the neckline and you could do it around the armhole
as well.
Before you start on the border around the neckline, may I
suggest that you run a round of sc all around.
Our border stitch count is in multiples of 2, so ensure that when you work
your sc, get the stitch count right.
We will work a (ch 3 + 2
dc) in the same 1st st ;
*sk next st, rep (to) in the next st* ;
rep *to*all the way around
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
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I have a few dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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