Monday, 17 November 2014

OH-CHO-CHWEET PINEAPPLE DRESS

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pineapple dress pattern, Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pineapple dress pattern,

OH-CHO-CHWEET PINEAPPLE DRESS

 Cheesy title.. ummm ok.. it ‘could’ be .. but come onnnnnn.. it is oh-cho-chweet a baby dress, isn’t it? Yet another one that you’re just going to have to make.. (sorry about that.. not my fault.. lets blame this on the cuteness of the dress !),  or put on that on a ‘must-make-sometime-soon’ list !! 

 In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest…?

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

And if you’ve got a list like that as well.. welcome to my world !! I just about start on one dress and tada .. someone shares yet another beautiful one the very same moment.. seems like I can’t work fast enough .. but I’m not complaining.. I am enjoying every minute of the ‘figurin out’ and the creating.. and guess you are too.. as you’ve joined me here , yet again! 


Materials used
 : Oswal Baby 3-ply yarn  ~ 100 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook
This is a really light dress, so I think 3 ply or 4 ply (light fingering or fingering weight) yarns will work best to show off the lacy effect.

Size made : W : 24” ; L : 20"  for a 12- 18 month old
Gauge : One “V”-st (across) = 0.5” x One “V”-st row (high) = 0.75” (or just under 1")

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog :  [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times.  One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease. 
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook).  For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook). 

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/


Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM


Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                      sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                 hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                  fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                   


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  
These are my original notes, that I am sharing them with you as I make my own project. 

You can make this pattern to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.  

As always, I request you to please  read through all the instructions and links before you pick up your hook.

As mentioned at the start, you can make this dress  to any size, using any yarn and suitable hook
Just ensure that you get the stitch count right for the measure needed for your child.

This dress is worked top down.  
We start with the yoke and work down to the skirt portion of our dress.
Given at the top of this blog are neck sizing charts and yoke sizing as well.  
While I am working this for the size specified above, you can use the charts and sizes given there to adapt it to the size you want.


PART 1 : YOKE
We will start working in rows for part (or whole) of the yoke so that we get a small button placket around the back.  
I usually suggest that you work a longer button placket opening (all down the  yoke, or till waist) for younger children, for ease.  
That said, you can decide to have a smaller opening.  
If you so decide, join at the end of the row you think is sufficient for the placket opening, and continue working the pattern in rounds.

The stitch count for today's yoke is in multiples of 5 + 2

Start :  with fsc in multiples of 5 + 2 for round neck of child.  
I started with 97 fsc for my 12-month old

In the following row we will work a decorative stitch using the dc 2-tog.  
Please check the top of this blog for a how to if needed.

Please note that this is a decorative stitch and not a decrease.  
We will, therefore work both legs of our dc 2-tog in the same st, and not in 2 adjoining stitches.  
So you will get a plump bobble-like stitch that gives us the decorative effect. Got it?

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in next fsc ; 
ch 2, sk next fsc, dc 2-tog in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till last 2 fsc, 
and dc in that last fsc (instead of an dc-2 tog).  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

We’ll now give our cute neckline a shape, so let’s mark off our four ‘corners’. 
So with our opening around the back, place your 1st marker in the 4th ch-5 sp ; 
sk three ch-5 sps and place 2nd marker in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sk seven ch-5 sps and place 3rd marker in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sk three ch-5 sps and place last marker in ch-5 sp ; 
and you should have four ch-5 sps left till end.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*{ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} till 1st marker ; 
(dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog ; ch 2, dc-2 tog) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
dc in that last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ; 
{ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog} ; 
rep {to} 2 times ; 
(ch 5, sc in next dc 2 tog ; 
ch 5, sc in next dc 2-tog ; 
ch 5, sc in next dc 2-tog) all in that 1st marked set of 2 dc 2-togs ; 
rep {to} 3 times ; 
rep (to) once till the 2nd marker ; 
rep {to} 7 times ; 
rep (to) once till the 3rd marker ; 
rep {to} 3 times ; 
rep (to) once till the last marker ; 
rep {to}  till end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Right, so we’ve got our four ‘corners’, and we have our three dc 2-tog sets marking each corner.  

Now, with we’re going to work a few rows of repeats – (repeating rows 3 & 4) – so let’s see what we’re going to repeat.

The corner three dc 2-tog set : The middle dc 2-tog is the one that is the perfect corner.  
So all increases (ie in the next row – Row 5, when you increase), are done in that stitch.  
There will be a neat seam that forms along that end shortly.

OK.. so let’s go ahead and rep Rows 3 & 4 four times, 
(ensuring that our repeats are just in that middle dc 2-tog), or till we have this yoke that is about 3.5” long.  
We will then shape off the armholes and continue to increase the  yoke a little more.  
So once again, let’s mark off our corners.  

This time, our ‘corner’ is the centre dc 2-tog of the three dc 2-tog sets in each section.  
So what we are going to do is go from the back till the first marker, and then skip across to the next marker, we will then go around to all the front till the 3rd marker, and skip across to the last marker – and finally complete the last bit of our yoke back.  

After this row, our work will proceed in rounds.  
The little opening at the back will be the button placket.

Before you proceed with the skirt, do fasten off the shoulders and do the little placket for the button as well, and we'll then work in rounds for the skirt.  

Round 13 : sc in 1st dc ; 
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next dc-2 tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
sc in the last dc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Remember that in each corner, we’re going to work sc in the 1st dc 2-tog (there are three dc-2 togs in each corner), and then ch 5 and sc in the next dc 2-tog, we will then sk that last dc 2-tog of the 1st corner, and the first dc 2-tog of the next corner, and then use the next two dc 2-togs of that corner.  
This we will repeat both sides of our yoke and then join at the end. 


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pineapple dress pattern, chart for yoke for pineapple baby dress,

For convenience, we will restart round counts for the skirt


PART 2 : SKIRT
From here one we’ll be “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Let me give you a few ideas to increase the flare of your dress, especially if you are making this dress for an older child and are going to have a longer skirt portion.

The options are
a) After a few rows, you could decide to add in a few dc into the "V"-st, so you could make it 
(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc)  ; and then later on add in another dc (i.e (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) 

b)  You could decide to increase the ch-spacing in the "V"-st when you add a dc in.  

Remember that if you are going to increase dc, add them in a step at a time for continuity - so 3 dc before 4 dc.

Round 1 :  “V”-st in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*“V”-st in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st ; ch 1 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ;  
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st  ; ch 2 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
“V”-st in that 1st “V”-st  ; ch 3 , 
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 :  Rep Round 4

Round 6 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  8 dc in next ch-1 sp (of next “V”-st) ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; ch 3 ,  
dc in the next dc, (ch 1 , dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp and dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 9 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*“V”-st in the “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 10 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st  ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] in the “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; 
(sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 11 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;  
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 12 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*[“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. 

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Round 13 :
  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; 
(sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 14 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 15 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3 ,  sk 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next sc,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 16 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*2 dc in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ;  
rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in next “V”-st ; 
ch 1, sk ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Note : Now we need to be in the ch-1 sp just behind us.. so we could work this in two ways.. you could either sl-st all the way forward into the dc and start the pineapples, or do it my way : 
which is to TURN, sl-st into that ch-1 sp ; 
then TURN again (so we’re once again facing the way we want to be), 
and work the 1st “V”-st right here in this ch-sp. 
Assuming you’re opting for ‘my way’, I’m writing the pattern down accordingly 
                                                                                        
Round 17 :  sl-st into the ch-1 sp ; 
*“V”-st in the ch-1 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp and dc , sc in next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) ;  
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 18 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] in the “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 19 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] all in the ch-2 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) 3 times; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 20 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
*“V”-st in ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-2 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) 2 times; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 21 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) once ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 22 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ;  ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 23 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 2, [2 dc ; ch 4, 2 dc] in next “V”-st ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 24 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, 8 dc in next ch-4 sp ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 25 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*“V”-st in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, dc in next dc ; (ch 1, dc in next dc) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 25 :  sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ; 
*2 dc in “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc 3-tog in next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc 3-tog in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in next “V”-st ; ch 1,* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pineapple dress pattern, full chart for skirt portion of the pineapple baby dress,


PART 3 : BORDER
There is a cute little border that runs all around the neckline and you could do it around the armhole as well.  
Before you start on the border around the neckline, may I suggest that you run a round of sc all around.  


Our border stitch count is in multiples of 2, so ensure that when you work your sc, get the stitch count right.



We will work  a (ch 3 + 2 dc) in the same 1st st ; 

*sk next st, rep (to) in the next st* ; 
rep *to*all the way around

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.
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Have a great day and see you soon. J


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