Friday, 13 October 2017

FAUX DIAMOND SKIRT

free crochet skirt pattern, free crochet continuous motif pattern

FAUX DIAMOND SKIRT

This pattern has been chosen by my client and I am thrilled that I am going to get to try to make a tape lace pattern again.  The top/belt portion of this skirt is the difficult bit but it’s the gorgeous continuous tape lace motif. 
So come along and let’s figure this one out  J

Please read through all the instructions (especially for Part 1) before you pick up your hook. Thanks.  

You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.  

This is not my pattern.  I have been inspired by freely available charts and this inspiration photograph.  These are my notes as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 325 gms of Anchor knitting cotton with a
3.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : Our lovely Indian White rose knitting cotton yarn is a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : The yarn I have used actually needs a 2-2.5 mm crochet hook.  I prefer the larger hook for the stretch that it offer my work. 
International yarns that I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

Size made :  Round waist : 102 cm x Full length : 58 cm
You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook. 

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level for the continuous tape motif pattern.  
The rest of the skirt is Intermediate  to Advanced skill level.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to attach a zipper : Check the links below for a “how to”
OR

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371

How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-crochet-an-i-cord/



Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fdc : Foundation double crochet                             ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet
trc : Treble / Triple crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Part 1 : Continuous tape lace motif design





This lovely creation uses the continuous tape lace motif design. 

To see what the continuous tape lace motif is and a "how to", check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UovrVbzL4aI

Neither of these are this actual pattern (from the photograph or the chart below). 
I am sorry, but this pattern is just too difficult to write and it must have a video.  Presently, I do not have the time or manpower to make a video for this chart, though I have figured it out.

Do look at the videos above and see if you can figure this one out.  
Continuous tape motif patterns are a little like a jigsaw puzzle, to see which part fits in where to get it tape-like. 
In case you do not, well, both the links on the top give you a pretty darn fantastic wide tape / belt.    

We work one long strip of lace in this pattern and that will be the top of our skirt.  Once we are done with the lace motif, we will work the lower part of the skirt.  
So go on to the video and work the top of the skirt.

You could work the pattern for the skirt (body) all the way, without the tape lace motif pattern as well.  
In case you so decide, just work the first fsc row in the stitch count repeat needed for the body pattern and start right off with that.  
Have fun .. create something unusual. 




Part 2 : Top belt of skirt

Once you have completed the top lace motif, we have to work on the top belt part of the skirt, just above the lace motif.
In case you are happy with the way the motifs look and you do not want to do anything for the top bit, skip this section.

I have decided to work in a small top section, so that the lace motif will be properly held down.  I have worked a round of chain all around the top of the motif, in multiples of the stitch count. 

In case you are not working the continuous tape lace motif section, you can start with this belt portion and then carry on with the skirt.  
Please note that the body of the skirt has a different stitch count.  
Pay attention and read that section information now please.

The stitch count for this part is in multiples of 3 + 1


Start by attaching your yarn to the top corner of a motif and work an sc in the 1st st ; (ch 2, sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) evenly all around to secure the tape lace motif. 
Remember, if you are planning on working a zipper, you will work side to side and leave an opening for zipper.  Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; *(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; *(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Rows 4 - 5 : Rep Rows 2 & 3 once. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 3 : Body of skirt


We have now completed the top lace motif, and belt, so lets start on the lower body part of the skirt.
We will work the body of the skirt in rounds.

The stitch count is in multiples of 8

We will work from under the tape lace now. 
Once again, work a round of (sc ; ch 2, sc in the next st), evenly spacing the (to) all around. 


Round 1 : dc in the 1st st ; (2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Stop and double check that you have the stitch count , in multiples of 8

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; *ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : 5 trc in the 1st sc ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 trc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st past the 1st 2 trc , sc in the next trc ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 trc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 trc, sc in the next trc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
*5 trc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st past the 1st 2 trc , sc in the next trc ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 trc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sk next 2 trc, sc in the next trc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st till the 1st sc ; 3 trc in the 1st sc ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 trc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till last 3 dc ; 2 trc in the same 1st dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Great job! As you have seen, we have just finished one pattern repeat – 4 rounds / rows making one pattern repeat.

Rep Rounds 4 – 7 till you have the length needed, ending with a Round 4 or 6.
We will work one last border round, and we’ll work that as soon as your length is reached.

Remember that every alternate round / row, you will work your 5-trc shell pattern in the middle of the earlier shell pattern. i.e the shells alternate.  Once you’ve got this in mind, the pattern is pretty simple.

In our last border round, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd st from hk).  For a “how to work a picot”, please check the top of this blog.

In this final round, we will work the 5-trc set that we have worked all along, with picots in every trc all around.

Here is our border shell stitch :
{trc + picot in the sc ; (trc + picot in the same sc) 3 more times) ; trc in the same sc}
So you will work a total of 5 trc + 4 picot per border shell st.

I have also chosen to work this final border shell stitch in a slightly different way.  If you are following the chart, you could work the border shell st in each ch-5 sps and work an sc in each sc all around. 



This is how I have worked this last round.
Last Border Round : Work a border shell st in the 1st sc ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; border shell st in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 4 : Finishing

We have successfully finished our skirt. 
Use one of the links given at the top of this blog to make an I-cord.
You could also decide to just work a long length of fsc, and then work a sl-st / sc or hdc all the way down till the end.  This give you a neat cord as well.

You could add a few beads at the end of your belt as well, not just for show but to prevent the belt from slipping out of the loops every time you wash it ;)

And just like that… we’re done with this brilliant creation.  Aren’t you thrilled with what you have made here today?

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier creations. 
Have fun with these lovely unusual  patterns too.