FAUX DIAMOND SKIRT
This pattern has been chosen by my client and I
am thrilled that I am going to get to try to make a tape lace pattern
again. The top/belt portion of this skirt is the
difficult bit but it’s the gorgeous continuous tape lace motif.
So come along
and let’s figure this one out
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Please read through all the instructions (especially
for Part 1) before you pick up your hook. Thanks.
You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.
This is not my pattern. I have been inspired by freely available charts and this inspiration photograph. These are my notes as I work on my project.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 325 gms of Anchor knitting cotton with a
For Indians : Our lovely
Indian White rose knitting cotton yarn is a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Round waist : 102 cm x Full length : 58 cm
You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.
Difficulty level
: Advanced Skill level for the continuous
tape motif pattern.
The rest of the
skirt is Intermediate to Advanced skill
level.
Stitches used :
How to seamlessly crochet in rounds : When working with head wear, this is a really neat way to seamlessly end each round. Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to this at https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial
https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology
dc : Double crochet
ch : Chain sk : skip
st : Stitch sl-st : Slip Stitch
rep : Repeat
trc : triple/treble crochet
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
Instructions (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Part 1 :
Continuous tape lace motif design
This lovely creation uses the continuous tape
lace motif design.
Neither of these are this actual pattern
(from the photograph or the chart below).
I am sorry, but this pattern is just
too difficult to write and it must have a video. Presently, I do not have the time or manpower
to make a video for this chart, though I have figured the pattern out.
Continuous tape motif patterns are a little
like a jigsaw puzzle, to see which part fits in where to get it tape-like.
In case you do not, well, both the links on the
top give you a pretty darn fantastic wide tape / belt.
We work one long strip of lace in this pattern
and that will be the top of our skirt.
Once we are done with the lace motif, we will work the lower part of the
skirt.
So go on to the video and work the
top of the skirt.
You could work the pattern for the skirt (body)
all the way, without the tape lace motif pattern as well.
In case you so decide, just work the first
fsc row in the stitch count repeat needed for the body pattern and start right
off with that.
Have fun .. create
something unusual.
Part 2 :
Top belt of skirt
Once you
have completed the top lace motif, we have to work on the top belt part of the
skirt, just above the lace motif.
In case
you are happy with the way the motifs look and you do not want to do anything
for the top bit, skip this section.
I have
decided to work in a small top section, so that the lace motif will be properly
held down. I have worked a round of
chain all around the top of the motif, in multiples of the stitch count.
In case you are not working the continuous tape lace motif section, you can start with this belt portion and then carry on with the skirt.
Please note that the body of the skirt has a different stitch count.
Pay attention and read that section information now please.
The stitch
count for this part is in multiples of 3 + 1
Start by attaching your yarn to
the top corner of a motif and work an sc in the 1st st ; (ch 2, sc
in the next st) ;
rep (to) evenly
all around to secure the tape lace motif.
Remember,
if you are planning on working a zipper, you will work side to side and leave
an opening for zipper. Turn.
Row
1 : dc in the
1st sc ;
*(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn.
Row
2 : dc in the
1st dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn.
Row
3 : dc in the
1st dc ;
*(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn.
Rows
4 - 5 : Rep Rows
2 & 3 once.
Fasten off
and weave in ends.
How to make a rounded cord : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag. http://vimeo.com/88972371 OR
Of course, you could also, (like I have) take the easier option and just loop in a convenient thin belt you have at home.
Part 3 :
Body of skirt
We have
now completed the top lace motif, and belt, so lets start on the lower body
part of the skirt.
We will
work the body of the skirt in rounds.
The stitch
count is in multiples of 8
We will
work from under the tape lace now.
Once
again, work a round of (sc ; ch 2, sc in the next st), evenly spacing the (to)
all around.
Round
1 : dc in the
1st st ;
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to)
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Stop and double
check that you
have the stitch count , in multiples of 8
Round
2 :
sc in the
1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
3 :
5 trc in
the 1st sc ;
*sc in the
next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
5 trc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around till the end
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
4 :
sl-st past
the 1st 2 trc , sc in the next trc ;
*ch 5, sk
next 2 trc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk
next 2 trc, sc in the next trc* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
5 :
sl-st into
the 1st ch-5 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
*5 trc in
the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
6 :
sl-st past
the 1st 2 trc , sc in the next trc ;
*ch 5, sk
next 2 trc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 trc, sc in the next trc* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
7 :
sl-st till
the 1st sc ; 3 trc in the 1st sc ;
*sc in the
next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
5 trc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around till last 3 dc ;
2 trc in the same 1st dc and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Great job!
As you have seen, we have just finished one pattern repeat – 4 rounds / rows
making one pattern repeat.
Rep Rounds
4 – 7 till you have the length needed, ending with a Round 4 or 6.
We will
work one last border round, and we’ll work that as soon as your length is
reached.
Remember that every alternate round
/ row, you will work your 5-trc shell pattern in the middle of the earlier
shell pattern. i.e the shells alternate.
Once you’ve got this in mind, the pattern is pretty simple.
In our
last border round, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd
st from hk). For a “how to work a
picot”, please check the top of this blog.
In this
final round, we will work the 5-trc set that we have worked all along, with
picots in every trc all around.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here is our border shell stitch :
{trc +
picot in the sc ; (trc + picot in the same sc) 3 more times) ; trc in
the same sc}
So you
will work a total of 5 trc + 4 picot per border shell st.
I have
also chosen to work this final border shell stitch in a slightly different
way.
If you are following the chart, you
could work the border shell st in each ch-5 sps and work an sc in each sc all
around.
This is how I have worked this last round.
Last
Border Round :
Work a
border shell st in the 1st sc ;
*sc in the
next ch-5 sp ; border shell st in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 4 :
Finishing
We have
successfully finished our skirt.
Use one of
the links given at the top of this blog to make an I-cord.
You could
also decide to just work a long length of fsc, and then work a sl-st / sc or
hdc all the way down till the end. This
give you a neat cord as well.
You could add a few beads at the end of your belt as well, not just for show but to prevent the belt from slipping out of the loops every time you wash it ;)
And just
like that… we’re done with this brilliant creation. Aren’t you thrilled with what you have made
here today?
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patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my earlier creations.
Have fun with these lovely unusual patterns too.
Check out my belt patterns
... and some tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
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