PAWZ
JACKET
I
am making this jacket for a very special animal lover. I made the original pattern by Amy Brewer for the scarf first. The
idea of paws running up and down the jacket was just too good to miss out on,
and I am thrilled to say that when I wrote to the lovely designer, she gave me her permission to use it in this project.
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Materials used : Today I have used about 120 gms of some Indian unbranded
knitting cotton , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
International yarns :
Among the international yarns that I have used, I’d say you could use Aunt Lydia cotton 10, Sullivans (Australia) ; Milford soft knitting cotton ,
DMC Petra knitting cotton and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cotton.
Edit : Amy Brewer added that she thinks Cotton 3 would be a better fit than Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 as it is heavier and would give a better fall. :)
That
said, you can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Amy has several pattern ideas using the paw
print, so do check the above link out.
I am going to tell you how I worked on my jacket here, adapting Amy’s
pattern.
a)
We will work one back and two fronts. You can either work three rectangles for each
part, without shaping the armholes, or neckline. The front sections then will fall with a
collar like presentation automatically.
b) OR we work on the one back and two fronts with a small
shaping for armhole and neckline, which is what I opt on working on here today.
c) The blanket pattern link given above works better, as we
are all definitely going to need more than 20 sts to work a width
d) The pattern repeat is in multiples of 20 (if you are
starting with the fsc – please check the pattern link for not starting with
fsc)
e) Our pattern is worked bottom up – so we will start at the
base of our jacket and work our way up to the shoulders.
f) Start with multiples of 20, as given in the instruction
sheet. For the back, work half the round waist / round chest and for the two
fronts, work half the measure you are using for the back.
g) Check waist and chest and use whichever measure is larger
– so that the jacket fronts neatly go across and close across the chest.
There
are two ways to make this jacket – the Easy and the Pretty tough one.
For both, you will need to go to the pattern
instructions and work a rectangle till you reach the armhole / neckline.
For
the easy route, you will not working an armhole or neckline shaping / decrease.
You will make a rectangle for the back and two smaller ones for the front –
starting from the base and working all the way to the shoulders. You will then return here and check finishing
instructions below.
For
the Pretty tough route, you are shaping the armholes and neckline, come
back here for decrease ideas.
Armhole decrease ideas :
If
you are planning on a small decrease / shaping along the armhole, come along
and let’s work on this together.
a) As I always
suggest, place your work on top of a good fitting top and see approximately how
much you want to shape in.
b) Sl-st into
the 1st 5 dc, and dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc
c) Continue the
pattern all the way till the last 7 dc, dc 2-tog over in the 7th and
6th dc from end, and turn, leaving last 5 sts unworked.
d) Dc 2-tog
over the 1st 2 sts and then work in pattern till the last 2 sts ; dc
2-tog over the last 2 sts. Total
decrease of 7 sts made.
e) Continue
working without any further decrease all the way till you reach the neck
f) So what is
the difficulty? Well, depending on where
you start your armhole decrease, you will need to keep a track of where the
‘holes’ for the next set of paws come along.
So say you have decreased 6 sts with the 1st decrease (Point
b) ; and then another 1 st via (Point c)
on each side ; when you are working the pattern row, you will need to
calculate how many stitches to the next paw hole pattern.
g) It may also
happen that one of your little paw holes are right at the end (say you decrease
Row 4, Row 10, Row 12), so you will have one little toe less on that paw print
– and you could decide to take the whole paw off or work with one toe missing!
That part will go under the armhole anyway.
h) So with
every row where we are starting the base of the paw (i.e Rows 2, 6, 10,
14…), you will need to start your pattern 7 sts from end. What does this mean? Say for Row 14, we need
to start dc 12, you will start dc 5 (12 – 7 sts) and then work the pattern,
ending similarly with a different number of stitches. The dc in between two sets of paw
patterns will remain the same.
Complicated? Yes, a bit.. but like a puzzle, you will get this done bit
by bit and enjoy it.. trust me!
i) The following
rows (i.e Row 15, 16, 17 in this case) for the completion of this paw will be
easy as you just follow up till that ch-4 sp and work back from it for the
little four toes.
j) May I
suggest that you keep a track of whatever you are doing for the decreases here
as they will help when you are working for the front armhole shaping.
k) But this is
where your creativity comes in – and no one knows what you are creating
anyway.. this is Your Jacket! Go create.. go crazy.. have fun!
Neckline shaping ideas :
If
you are planning on a small shape along the neckline, come along and let’s work
on this together.
a) Decide how
deep and wide you want your neckline.
Place markers to mark the two side points of the neckline
b) Work in
pattern till the marker and then turn back to work in pattern back to the
armhole.
c) Continue
working only on these few stitches from armhole to neckline till you reach the
shoulder level
d) Mirror what
you have worked for one side of the front on the other side as well.
e) The same
worries / calculations that you went through for the armhole are here as
well. What I did was keep track of the
changes I’d made for the armhole, and tweaked them again for the neckline – and
then kept track of what I was doing for one side to duplicate for the other.
f) That said,
you could well decide to have a pair of rectangles for the front, without any
front neckline shaping
Finishing :
Once
you have got the two fronts and one back all done, we are set to finish and
join this all up.
a) Use one of
the links at the top of this blog to join the two shoulders and sides.
b) Run a round
of sc all the way around the neckline and armhole to even the edges out.
c) You can
decide to run an additional round of sc just to get a neater edge.
Take a look at these videos to see which joining idea suits you best.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
And
that’s it.. your exquisite and unique Pawz vest is ready to wear show off.
Enjoyed
this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
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