Friday, 2 March 2018

LATTICED CROP TOP


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LATTICED CROP TOP

Cold shoulder crop top / sari blouse


I am sure you have worked the lattice pattern before, and you may have worked on a cold shoulder pattern as well. With this creation, I have used two patterns to create this one latticed cold shoulder crop top.
I am writing these instructions such that it can be made for any size using any yarn. The pattern uses really simple stitches, so in that way it is an Easy – Intermediate skill level BUT there are calculations that need to be made which are slightly trickier, and that requires some advanced skill levels. 

I think that this crop top will be a neat and unusual sari blouse – so tweak and create away… come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.  

And inspired by these photos, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.  As always, I have loads of information sprinkled through the blog - for a sleeveless ; or  sleeved or cinched cropped top creation - so please read through all my detailed and painstakingly written notes.

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=free crochet top pattern, free crochet ladies top pattern, free crochet sari blouse pattern, free crochet cold shoulder top pattern, free crochet strappy top pattern, free crochet crop top pattern, free crochet cropped top pattern, free crochet lattice top pattern, Baroque yarn, Anchor knitting cotton, Red rose knitting cotton,

 Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Baroque knitting cotton with a 1.75 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : This yarn is a super fine knitting cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                             sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                       hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                               yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

 I have taken my inspiration from this pattern for the latticed top, though not in English, is at

I have decided to change the pattern a bit, and am only keeping the lattice pattern along the side.  Along the centre portion, I am going to use a simpler dc and ch-1 sp combination as against the 3 dcs.  I have also decided to keep my top a little shorter.  All that said, this write up has ideas and information on how you can do a whole load of things with this pattern – so come along and let’s create something beautiful together.

We start our project from the bottom up – from the base of the top to the shoulders. 
So our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you are working with – ie. How long do you want your top?
IF you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist measure.  Remember that you need to check both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.
Now if the waist is the lesser measure, but you want it cinched, then you could work a few additional rows (after you finish the top - you come back to the fsc row and do this).  You can work dc in every fsc and work in rows, leaving the side open a bit.  Attach a button along this open side and voila, you have a cinched waist!
Alternatively, you can attach a small piece of elastic as well and get a great fit. :)

Want to make this a longer top? Just work the rectangle for the length you need from waist to armhole and you have a regular long top - not a cropped one.  

Part 1 : Front and back
Make two

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We will make two rectangles for our crop top and attach the shoulder blades and the sides.  The neck will automatically become boat-like and the shoulders will flop over to become a smallish raglan-like sleeve.

As I mentioned at the start, I am only using the lattice pattern along one side from this pattern and the rest is going to be all dc and ch-1 sps.  Hence there is no stitch count for this pattern. 
You just need to start with an uneven number of stitches , and you need to ensure is that you get half the round measure as mentioned above and we are all set to go.

So how will this work?  This is going to be a super creative top – as you can work the lattice pattern anywhere you wish.  Here are ideas.
The original photograph shows it on the right hand side, going up to the right shoulder – so this is one option.
You can have it going up to your left shoulder, or you can have it straight down the centre as well.
The beauty of this pattern is that even if you get it slightly wrong and your lattice is not bang in the centre but just off it, it does not matter as you only have this one row going down and as long as you get the stitches one on top of the other, you’re good !

Assuming that you are going to have the lattice work along one side , going up to the shoulder, (any one side - doesn’t matter), here are the instructions.

First you need to calculate your round measure and take half that round measure.  Now you need to check where along the front you would like to have your lattice pattern.

Our lattice pattern has a stitch count of 11 stitches.

The chart below is explanation of how a lattice stitch works.. but I did not use 3 dc in each st or ch-sp as indicated in this chart.  I worked 1 dc only.  However, this chart will give you a lovely filled in look, so go ahead and try this out too :)


OK.. now  for our first row of pattern, you will need to place a marker for the 1st st you are going to use for the lattice pattern.  Thereafter you will just work off that stitch for the pattern and work the rest of the top in the simpler pattern.

Start with fsc and in an uneven number for half the round waist / chest measure.  Turn.
As always remember that you need to take the larger measure (i.e round waist or round chest - whichever is larger)

We will start our lattice pattern from the very first row. 
So place this fsc chain down and place a marker for where you want to start your lattice pattern.
The lattice pattern stitch count is 11, which means that the centre of this lattice will be your 6th stitch (of the 11 sts needed for the lattice pattern). 
So if you want it perfectly centred, see exactly where you want the centre to be and mark it out.
Ensure that your marker is on an uneven numbered stitch just for convenience.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
*[ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc]* ;
rep *to* till your marked stitch ;
(ch 11, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the ch-11 sp ;
rep [to] till end.  Turn

Now here starts the “difficulty”. 
You have to remember that the lattice stitch moves one dc outside or to the left each row, (while we are creating the lattice pattern),  till it reaches the centre of the lattice stitch, and then it will move inside or to the right each row till you complete the stitch.  Got it?

So what does this mean for us? It means that you will remember to move your marker OR remember which stitch we are using for the lattice pattern.
In this case (row 1), the 1st st of the lattice is the dc before the ch-11 sp, and the 2nd st is the one just after, right?

BUT when we return, the 1st st and 2nd sts are reversed..
and you still have the ch-11 sp in between.
My instructions therefore will read dc before ch-11 sp or before ch-5 sp and I hope you know which dc I refer to. 

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ; ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-11 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.

Now you know what I meant about the lattice stitch moving outwards?  So with each row, you will
 (a) you will work in the dc before your marked st , and
 (b) move your marker to the last dc of the lattice st.  OK?

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 7 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.

Fantastic ! We have reached the centre of our lattice stitch pattern.
From here on, we will be working inwards and so we will work in the dc after, and in the ch-sp to close the lattice stitch.  Got it?

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn

And before you know it, we’ve completed one lattice stitch.  Beautiful, isn’t it?

Row 11 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1,  dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 11, sk next sc , dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked on – i.e the dc after the ch-11 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn

We have completed one pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 2 – 11 all the way to the top of the shoulders.

As I mentioned before, we are working two rectangles for our crop top and then attaching the shoulders and sides to finish it off.

Now before you rush off to finish, here are a few ideas for side increase.

Our basic body pattern is (dc ; ch 1, dc).  If you want a small increase and shape , then I suggest that you work in a small increase of 2 sts every 4 – 6 rows.
Increase row : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) till the marked st for lattice pattern ; work lattice pattern and then rep (to) till the last dc ; ch 1, dc in the same last dc.  Turn.

Now remember that if you decide to work in an increase, you must make a note of where you are increasing.  I’d suggest you place a marker – and then you will work in the same increases for the other side of your top too.

Right then, let’s finish the two rectangles, and we’ll meet back here shortly for more fun stuff.
Before you rush off to make the 2nd (front) side of the top, please check Part 2 below.


Part 2 : Neckline shaping

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Initially I thought that I’d make this with 2 rectangles, but as I was working on the front, I thought of making a small neckline shape.  As we are working on a simple pattern, the shaping is pretty simple too.  Here’s the gist of what I have done
a)   Decide how deep you want your neck and place a marker there
b)   Decide how wide you want it and place 2 markers to show you the two sides of the neckline
c)     Now work in pattern all the way from the armhole to this neckline and back.
d)   You can decide to work this for the back as well – show off your creativity.  Have fun.

Now after having said all this, I went ahead and worked in another tweak.  I found this photograph and I loved the single strappy shoulder – so decided to add in this feature too.  This gave it that open cold shoulder effect that I loved!

In case you want to do this as well, here are the ideas. Please read through all these points before you pick up your hook.
a)   As before, you need to decide and place markers for how ‘wide’ you want the neckline.  This is very important as you only have one large shoulder strap – so you do need to mark both sides properly.
b)   You will work one strap (the side with the lattice pattern) all the way to the shoulder.
c)     Before you start working on the straps for the 2nd side, I have run a round of hdc all around the neckline to finish it neatly.
d)   On completion of one strap, one usually re-attaches  yarn for the 2nd side.  In this case though, you will be working a set of 3 or 4 tiny straps that will join the front and back halves of your top.
e)    So what does this mean?  Let’s assume you have a 4” wide shoulder strap on the lattice patterned side, so you will have one marker at the same 4” for both the front and back rectangle. Work a fsc chain that will join the two marked points for the front and back.  This will be your first tiny strap.
f)      Similarly work 3 – 4 straps all going from different points of the front half of your top to the same point of your back half.  By same point I mean that you will keep the straps at the back as close together as you can, so that you get a neat “V” look for the straps coming down over the front.
g)    Once you have 3 – 4 straps joining the front and back, make one last strap that will join the ends of the front and back, that will also mark your armhole opening.




Part 3 : Finishing

So you have successfully finished two halves of your vest.  Using one of the joining methods giving above, join the shoulders and sides of this vest.

I have then run a round of hdc all around the armhole and base of the top to neatly finish it off. 
In case you are making this into a sari blouse and want a slightly fitted finish at the bottom, may I suggest that you work in a few hdc 2-tog all around to cinch it a bit.  Remember that this needs to come over your head and bust, so adding in an elastic and as set of buttons along the bottom would work really well too.


Part 4 : Sleeves

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I finished the top, loved it, had it modeled and put it up on Instagram .. and it was sold almost instantly.  I then was requested to add on cap sleeves if I could..

So here’s what I did to add on the tiny cap sleeves.

1)      Run a  round of sc all around the armhole, neatly picking up stitches.  The thumb rule is 1 sc per ch-1 sp and 2 sc per vertical bar of the dc.  Ensure you keep a count of how many you deftly pick up for the first armhole and mirror for the second.
2)    Ensure you pick up an uneven number of stitches.
3)    We will work the body pattern of (dc ; ch 1, sk a st, dc in the next st) pattern for the sleeves
4)    For the armhole that has just the fine strappy finish (opposite side of lattice work), I used the last of the straps.
5)    Work the basic body pattern till you have the sleeve length desired.
6)    Final round, you could work a dc in each dc and a dc in each ch-1 sp all around, if desired.
7)     Fasten off and weave in ends.


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