Sweet Nothings Crochet: DAISY TOP

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During a recent out-of-town visit, a friend’s daughter requested for a light, lacy crochet top.. a “nice cool top”, I think she said.. and yup, you got it, this one sure fits the bill in all aspects. I thought that the pattern looked like cute little daisy - flowers strewn through the top.. so the obvious choice for the name!

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While the inspiration is from the net, these are my original notes as I work on this pattern, and I'm freely sharing these with you, and below is the inspirational photo that got me interested in this lovely pattern.. just so you too get that 'ah-hah!' moment! Pattern inspiration here

Materials used : Today I’ve used a light 3 ply acrylic yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Non-Indians : I have used a Red Rose knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Abbreviations used :

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fdc : Foundation double crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Instructions (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We start at the base of our top and work our way to the neck and shoulders of the top. We will work straight from base till the armholes, then decrease for the armholes, and then the lovely neatly curved neckline.

The chart below will give you an idea of sizing.

In an earlier top with a similar neckline, I’d started with the neck and then worked down the top. What I always feel with this start, is that we get a neater neckline. However, if you start with the neck in this top, your cute little flower, which is the high-point of this top, will look upside down. Now no-one really knows *how* this pattern is *supposed* to look.. so hey, you work the pattern the way you want it.

And just like that, naughtily, I’ve offered you choices.. and decisions

That said, I’m going to write this pattern down the way it has been charted.

So let’s get started.

PART 1 : BACK

Our stitch count is in muliples of 10.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc and the number of stitches you need for the width of the back of your top. Turn.

We start with our Flower stitch.

Flower stitch or Flower st : (sc ; [ch 5, sc] ; rep [to] 2 times) all in the same st.

Note : If you are working with a thin yarn and want a lighter, lacier project, you could make your flower stitch a little longer so try a ch-7 instead of a ch-5.

Do a swatch with both flowers and see which one looks better with your yarn.

Of course, a ch-7 flower also means that you will be done with your project a lot faster.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*ch 4, sk next 4 fdc , Flower st in the next fdc ;

ch 4, sk next 4 fdc, dc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once more ;

ch 1, sc in next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

From this row on, we will have a Half Flower stitch to start and end rows.

Half Flower stitch : (sc ; [ch 5, sc] ; rep [to] once) all in the same st.

Row 3 : Half Flower st in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 4, sk next sc , sk next ch-3 sp , dc in the next sc ;

ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sk next sc, Flower st in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ending with a Half Flower st in the last sc. Turn.

Note : In the following row, to start we need to reach the middle of that first ch-5 sp .. so we will do a ch 2 , which does not count as a st for the purpose of our pattern.

It is just to take you up to the middle of the 1^st ch-5 sp.

If you prefer, you could also sl-st to that point.

Row 4 : ch 2, sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 1, sc in the next dc ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Note : As you have only one [to] to start with, you will similarly end with just one set and it’ll be with a sc in that last ch-5 sp

I’m pretty sure you’ve already figured out how this pattern is headed.. but let’s do one more set of rows together before we fly our separate ways.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , sk next sc , Flower st in the next sc ;

ch 4, sk next sc , sk next ch-3 sp , dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 6 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once more ;

ch 1, sc in next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

There we go.. we’ve completed one repeat.

So our rep rows are Rows 3-6 , ending with Row 6.

Continue these reps till your project reaches the armhole level. We will then reduce first for the armhole, and then a quick reduce for the neckline before we complete one half of our project.

So away we go.. see you soon for the armholes.

Now you see why we’re stopping at Row 6. We need decrease for that first row of armhole, and it’s simple now to get to that first flower stitch to start.

Armhole decrease ideas :

As I’ve said before, if this top is for a specific person, and you can get a well fitting top, that’s great – you will then have a map to put your top over and check that you get the right curvature for the armhole and neckline. Else we’ll wing it as we usually do

Row 1 : sl-st till the first sc of the first flower st : dc in that sc ;

ch 4, Flower st in the next sc ; ch 4, sk next sc , sk next ch-3 sp , dc in the next sc ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , sk next sc , Flower st in the next sc ;

ch 4, sk next sc , sk next ch-3 sp , dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the last flower st ; dc in that centre sc of that last flower st. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp ; [ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once more ; ch 1, sc in next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 again for one more decrease, depending on the armhole curvature you desire.

We now go back to our regular reps, but you could , instead of the half flower in the alternate rows, start with a dc on all rows so that we get a neat armhole edge. ... See which start works best for you.

Continue reps till you reach the level you need for the neckline.

At the neckline level, what I usually do is figure out the centre of my project, and then place two markers to show me the sides for the neck. Using the similar decrease as above, but decreasing now at the neck edge (as against the armhole edge), decrease for 2 rows till you get a neat curved neckline. You will then continue with the two straps that will go all the way up to your shoulders. As always, you will work one strap first, then re-attach yarn and work the second strap till shoulder.

Now if you notice the pattern by designer, there is a 3-4 row of dc’s all around the neckline. If you too decide on that finish, remember that this will add to the depth / height of the neckline, so calculate where you want to start your neckline shaping accordingly. Once again, remember that it is preferable to have the last row (before neckline shaping) as a Row 4 or 6, so you have a flat centre edge.

We will do these few neckline rows after you have finished the top and joined sides & shoulders.

This completes one side of your top.

The front and back of this top are the same, so repeat this for the other side as well. You have the option of keeping one neckline deeper than the other – so that could be the one change that you could make .. once again.. options & decisions.

Once done with both halves of your top, please join the sides and shoulder straps to complete your top.

FINISHING :

So if you have opted for the finish that the designer has given for neckline, once you’ve joined the shoulders and sides, you will re-attach your yarn and then work a row of dc’s all around the neck. Now the tricky part here is getting a neat edge without any frilly bits – so bit of a “figure it out as you go along” situation. What I usually do is work a few sts and then put my work down and see if its neat and flat.

I would also do a similar (maybe thinner?) edging around the armhole to give it a good finish – our baseline has a row of dc as well.. so this would look neat and trim.

Here are some video tutorials for joining.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

Fasten off and weave in ends. Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html