ENDEARING HALTER-NECKED TOP
This is a really cute top that can be worn in
the beach, and is also cute enough to be worn (probably along with a neat
bolero?) for an evening out.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. Cheers. Enjoy
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
This is a special order for a really special
young lady, who is a Fashion designer.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my
notes that I share with you.
Inspired by https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837644727/
And using the charts from here for part of the
pattern, I am tweaking it slightly to fit the this young lady.
Materials used : Today
I’ve used about one ball (50 gms) of the Sullivan International knitting cotton, with a 3 mm crochet hook. Optional : Stitch markers
For Indians : Our
Indian Anchor , White Rose or Red Rose knitting cottons will all work. Of the lot, Red rose knitting cottons can be
a thinnest (2-ply) and therefore you will need more yarn than if using the
other two suggested.
Size made : I’ve
made this for a Chest size 32 - 34” ; length 13” and used about 75 gms of
knitting cotton
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here
today.
We’re
going to make a halter-necked top will start our top from the lower part /
waist of the top and work up to the neck.
So what’s ‘chest / waist
measurement’? Decide how long
you want this top to be, and then measure around that part of the body.
Now if you take a look at the
chart, you will see that the halter has no real back. My young lady wanted one (something similar
to the sari blouse I’ve designed earlier), so I’ve decided to work a back in as
well.
There is going to be a set of
hooks at the back of the top, so we will work back and forth in rows.
So when measuring your round chest, you will add 1 - 2 inches that will overlap for that back placket portion and you will attach hooks on that portion.
Now you could decide not to work a hook, and use a tie back here too.. in which case, you will work just a round chest measure, and at that back portion, you will attach another set of tie backs (not to be confused with the tie back that goes around neck).
This will then mean that you have three sets of tie-backs.. one pair for the neck and then a set behind the back.
OK, so measure the round chest which
will be the lowest point of this top.
As I said before, I've worked without a real chart, but there is a chart on that link provided above, which you could take a look at.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with a fsc chain that will go all around the round chest
measure for the lowest point of the top.
Turn.
Depending on how thick your
yarn is, use a sc , hdc or a dc for this
first 3-4” section.
So I’ve decided to make this
about 13” from the shoulder and the 1st 3” will be all plain
hdc.
The holey pattern will start as a
slow “V” when I’ve done about 3” of plain hdc rows at the start.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Row 1 : hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end. Turn.
Row 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end. Turn.
Rep Row 2 for the next 3 – 4”
As there is no real pattern for
this section, I’m just going to continue numbering from 3.
At this point we need to find
the two ‘sides’ of our rectangular strip.
Fold your strip into four and mark the centre and two sides.
We need the two side markers now.
Row 3 : Increase row :
hdc in the 1st hdc and in
each hdc till the 1st side marker ;
[2 hdc in that hdc ; hdc in the
next (marked) hdc ; 2 hdc in the next marker]
;
hdc in each hdc till the next side marker, skipping the centre marker
;
rep [to] till end. Turn.
Move markers up.
We will now be working on just
the front portion and the back strap is complete.
So either fasten off now
and re-attach yarn at the hdc 1” before the 1st marker,
or sl-st till the hdc 1” before
the 1st side marker.
We will be working only between
the two side markers, and will continue to move all three markers up every row.
We will work this following row
till 1” after the 2nd marker.
As we want a gradual shaping of
the sides, we will not work in the 1st st when we start.
So what usually happens when we
turn is that we do a ch 1 and we’re then able to work that 1st st,
right?
So do not do a ch 1 at
the start of each row, which will mean that you will work directly in the 2nd
hdc, but work all the way to the end of the row as usual.
The instructions will read
therefore read hdc in the 2nd hdc henceforth.
Row 4 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till
end. Turn.
Move centre marker up
Row 5 - 7 : Rep Row 4
There is a centre holey pattern
that we will be making shortly.
Now “how shortly” depends on YOU.
You need to figure out how deep you want this
hole section and work the first line of the pattern depending on that.
First decide the ‘full length’
of this halter top, and then work out how deep you want your neck. This will
then give an estimate of how many rows of repeat you need to do (or how many
inches) before you start on the holey pattern.
Assuming that you are going to
start the pattern right now, I continue with my numbering.
Row 8 : hdc in the 2nd hdc
and in each hdc till one
stitch before the centre marker ;
ch 1, sk that hdc ; 2 hdc in the marked
st ;
ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st ;
hdc in each st till end. Turn.
We do not need that
centre marker anymore as our centre stitch is now defined by that 2 hdc we’ve
just made.
From this row on, we will work
our 2 hdc in the middle of the 2-hdc set.
Now what does this mean?
So usually when we’re working a
st, we work the dc or hdc on top of the dc or hdc of the previous row.
Here as we’re working 2 hdc / dc as part of our pattern, we will work the 2 hdcs
from here on in the middle of the 2-hdc set from the row
before. A little odd, I know, but it
looks soooo neat once you’ve got it figured.. so go for it.
And like its not complicated
enough.. I’m just going to say 2 hdc in the next 2-hdc set, and YOU must know
that I mean in the middle of the next 2-hdc set… i.e if I forget to
actually mention it.. as that’s our pattern stitch.
Row 9 : hdc in the 2nd hdc
and in each hdc till the
hdc before the 2-hdc set at the centre ;
ch 1, 2 hdc in the middle of the
next hdc ;
ch 1, hdc in the next st ;
hdc in each st till end. Turn.
Row 10 : hdc in the 2nd hdc
and in each hdc till 2 hdc
and the ch-sp before the 2-hdc set at the centre ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc
in the next hdc ;
(ch 1, 2 hdc in the middle of the next 2-hdc set) ;
ch 1, 2
hdc in the next hdc ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc and in each hdc till end. Turn.
We now have three 2-hdc sets
and four ch-1 sps in the centre.
Row 11 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till 2
hdc before the ch-1 sp,
ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
(ch 1, 2
hdc in the middle of the next 2-hdc set) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the
next hdc ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc
and in each hdc till end. Turn.
We now have five 2-hdc sets in
the centre.
See how we’re slowly getting a
shape along the sides of our top, and also a lovely holey pattern growing in
the centre? Neat, isn’t it!
So continue rep of Row 11,
increasing two 2-hdc sets in the centre of your top till you reach the neck
level.
For the ties around the back : I've made a fsc chain for the length you want for the tie-back, and then just to make it a little thicker and sturdy, I've worked all the way back on this fsc chain with sc. If you're working with a thicker yarn, you could work sl-sts all the way back.
If you're working with a thinner yarn, or want it to be a thicker tie-back, just work hdc all the way back .. or even a dc.. and you've got it made.
You will, obviously, work a tie back on both the top ends of the halter, so that it neatly ties back behind the neck, and when done, fasten and weave in all ends.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/
OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/
Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas
And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.
Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas
Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/
Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/
Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
..and some bolero / jacket / vest patterns
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks for taking the time to stop by. Do tell me what you think. Cheers