Sunday, 8 May 2016



This is a really cute top that can be worn in the beach, and is also cute enough to be worn (probably along with a neat bolero?) for an evening out.

This is a special order for a really special young lady, who is a Fashion designer.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

And using the charts from here for part of the pattern, I am tweaking it slightly to fit the this young lady.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about one ball (50 gms) of the Sullivan International knitting cotton,  with a 3 mm crochet hook.  Optional : Stitch markers
For Indians : Our Indian Anchor , White Rose or Red Rose knitting cottons will all work.  Of the lot, Red rose knitting cottons can be a thinnest (2-ply) and therefore you will need more yarn than if using the other two suggested.

Size made : I’ve made this for a Chest size 32 - 34” ; length 13” and used about 75 gms of knitting cotton

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp(s) : chain space(s)
sp(s) : space(s)                                                           rep : Repeat
yo : Yarn over                                                           sk : Skip
lp : Loop                                                                       hk : Hook
dc 5-tog : Double crochet 5-together

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

And oh, as we’re working on a tight-fit wear, thought I’d share this cool chart I’ve found

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  
We’re going to make a halter-necked top will start our top from the lower part / waist of the top and work up to the neck.  

So what’s ‘chest / waist measurement’? Decide how long you want this top to be, and then measure around that part of the body. 

Now if you take a look at the chart, you will see that the halter has no real back.  My young lady wanted one (something similar to the sari blouse I’ve designed earlier), so I’ve decided to work a back in as well.

There is going to be a set of hooks at the back of the top, so we will work back and forth in rows.
 So when measuring your round chest, you will add 1 - 2 inches that will overlap for that back placket portion and you will attach hooks on that portion.

Now you could decide not to work a hook, and use a tie back here too.. in which case, you will work just a round chest measure, and at that back portion, you will attach another set of tie backs (not to be confused with the tie back that goes around neck).

This will then mean that you have three sets of tie-backs.. one pair for the neck and then a set behind the back.

OK, so measure the round chest which will be the lowest point of this top.

As I said before, I've worked without a real chart, but there is a chart on that link provided above, which you could take a look at.

Start : with a fsc chain that will go all around the round chest measure for the lowest point of the top.  Turn.

Depending on how thick your yarn is, use a sc , hdc  or a dc for this first 3-4” section.

So I’ve decided to make this about 13” from the shoulder and the 1st 3” will be all plain hdc.  
The holey pattern will start as a slow “V” when I’ve done about 3” of plain hdc rows at the start.

Row 1 : hdc in the 1st fsc  and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 for the next 3 – 4”

As there is no real pattern for this section, I’m just going to continue numbering from 3.

At this point we need to find the two ‘sides’ of our rectangular strip.  
Fold your strip into four and mark the centre and two sides.  
We need the two side markers now.

Row 3 : Increase row : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till the 1st side marker ; 
[2 hdc in that hdc ; hdc in the next (marked) hdc ; 2 hdc in the next marker]  ; 
hdc in each hdc till the next side marker, skipping the centre marker ; 
rep [to] till end. Turn.
Move markers up.

We will now be working on just the front portion and the back strap is complete.

So either fasten off now and re-attach yarn at the hdc 1” before the 1st marker,
or sl-st till the hdc 1” before the 1st side marker. 

We will be working only between the two side markers, and will continue to move all three markers up every row.
We will work this following row till 1” after the 2nd marker.

As we want a gradual shaping of the sides, we will not work in the 1st st when we start.

So what usually happens when we turn is that we do a ch 1 and we’re then able to work that 1st st, right?

So do not do a ch 1 at the start of each row, which will mean that you will work directly in the 2nd hdc, but work all the way to the end of the row as usual.

The instructions will read therefore read hdc in the 2nd hdc henceforth. 

Row 4 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till end.  Turn.
Move centre marker up

Row 5 - 7 : Rep Row 4
There is a centre holey pattern that we will be making shortly. 
Now “how shortly” depends on YOU.  
You need to figure out how deep you want this hole section and work the first line of the pattern depending on that.
First decide the ‘full length’ of this halter top, and then work out how deep you want your neck. This will then give an estimate of how many rows of repeat you need to do (or how many inches) before you start on the holey pattern.

Assuming that you are going to start the pattern right now, I continue with my numbering.

Row 8 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till one stitch before the centre marker
ch 1, sk that hdc ; 2 hdc in the marked st ; 
ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st ; hdc in each st till end.  Turn.

We do not need that centre marker anymore as our centre stitch is now defined by that 2 hdc we’ve just made.

From this row on, we will work our 2 hdc in the middle of the 2-hdc set.
Now what does this mean?
So usually when we’re working a st, we work the dc or hdc on top of the dc or hdc of the previous row. Here as we’re working 2 hdc / dc as part of our pattern, we will work the 2 hdcs from here on in the middle of the 2-hdc set from the row before.  A little odd, I know, but it looks soooo neat once you’ve got it figured.. so go for it.

And like its not complicated enough.. I’m just going to say 2 hdc in the next 2-hdc set, and YOU must know that I mean in the middle of the next 2-hdc set… i.e if I forget to actually mention it.. as that’s our pattern stitch.

Row 9 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till the hdc before the 2-hdc set at the centre
ch 1, 2 hdc in the middle of the next hdc ; 
ch 1, hdc in the next st ; hdc in each st till end.  Turn.

Row 10 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till 2 hdc and the ch-sp before the 2-hdc set at the centre ; ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the next hdc ; 
(ch 1, 2 hdc in the middle of the next 2-hdc set) ; 
ch 1, 2 hdc in the next hdc ; ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc  and in each hdc till end.  Turn.
We now have three 2-hdc sets and four ch-1 sps in the centre.

Row 11 : hdc in the 2nd hdc and in each hdc till 2 hdc before the ch-1 sp, 
ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the next hdc ; 
(ch 1, 2 hdc in the middle of the next 2-hdc set) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the next hdc ; 
ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc  and in each hdc till end.  Turn.

We now have five 2-hdc sets in the centre.

See how we’re slowly getting a shape along the sides of our top, and also a lovely holey pattern growing in the centre? Neat, isn’t it!

So continue rep of Row 11, increasing two 2-hdc sets in the centre of your top till you reach the neck level.

For the ties around the back  I've made a fsc chain for the length you want for the tie-back, and then just to make it a little thicker and sturdy, I've worked all the way back on this fsc chain with sc. If you're working with a thicker yarn, you could work sl-sts all the way back.
If you're working with a thinner yarn, or want it to be a thicker tie-back, just work hdc all the way back .. or even a dc.. and you've got it made.

You will, obviously, work a tie back on both the top ends of the halter, so that it neatly ties back behind the neck, and when done, fasten and weave in all ends.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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