CRISS-CROSS PATTERNED INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES
This pattern for a cowl with sleeves is fast
becoming a favourite among my clients. However, as you know, I do not like
repeating patterns, and always look for a different pattern for the cowl part
of this second set. Thanks for joining
me in my creative journey.
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As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my
notes that I share with you.
Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837681737/
Also inspired by http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/antonia-wrap-around-shrug,
here is my tweak and difference from this similar pattern.
Using this pattern, I've also made a beanie at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-beanie.html. and another matching cowl https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl-1.html
Materials used : Today I’ve our about 200 gms lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium
acrylic yarn with a 4.5 mm crochet hook
Materials used : Made this for a Chest Size 34” / Arm length 24”
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet dc
: Double crochet
ch : chain
ch-sp
: chain space
sp : space
rep
: Repeat
hdc :Half Double crochet sc-blo : Single Crochet
Back Loop Only
fpdc : Front Post Double crochet
Abbreviations :
sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only
fsc : Foundation single crochet
hdc : Half Double crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today.
We start with a
row of fsc and then work our way side to side to make a large rectangle. Now
here’s where your creativity comes in.
There are several ways you can decide to wrap this around your body – so
the two sides of your wrap will be the length of your arms from shoulder(s) to
wrist(s), and the centre part is what will go around your chest.
I’ve
offered several choices and ideas through this instruction sheet, so please go
through it all before you start on your work. Thanks.
Here
is a you-tube of the four different ways you can wear it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKNxf3RuaBQ
So
calculations : One and a half
times your round chest plus two arm lengths. This is the length of the rectangle
we’ll make.
Width : We will work up and down the fsc we’re making which is the
width of our chest piece, but if you make this part too wide,
then you’re actually increasing the round arm as well – so remember this when
you’re working your calculations.
In my first two patterns, I
just worked a a different set of patterns for the sleeves and the chest
portion. Here I’ll be using the crossed pattern just for the chest and simple
hdc all through the sleeves with a tighter fpdc for the ends of the sleeves.
In my earlier patterns I’ve
used a different pattern for the chest section as well as a different coloured
yarn.
This time, I’ve used the same
yarn throughout, but a different pattern for the centre chest section.
Now here are our tweaks :
1.
I’m planning on
using the crossed stitch pattern just for the center of the project and using a
plainer stitch for the two arms, so I will be working three pieces in this
project – One chest portion and two sleeve portions
2.
I will work the
three pieces separately and then join them together.
3.
I am not going to
write pattern separately for the chest and the sleeves. I am writing the pattern down, and you could
make the whole project in the same pattern.
4.
If you decide to
make the sleeves separately (as I have), you will follow instructions through
to the end and see what I have done.
5.
Finally, I’m going
to add a tightening set of rows around the end of our ‘sleeve’ ends – so you
could actually work whatever width you want, as the sleeves are going to
fit eventually.
So, enough talking.. hooks in
hand.. and let’s go.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 +
3
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with fsc in multiples of 12 + 3. Turn.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next fsc , sc in
the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
We start with the first
diagonal of our pattern.
This first row is a little bit
tricky – but once we’ve got this figured, the rest is easy peasy.
We will be working our diagonal
in our first row which is two rows below.
So we will be skipping all
stitches in Row 2, and be working on the scs of Row 1.
On Row 1, we’ll be skipping a
total of 4 sts, which will be two ch-1 sps and 2 sc.
Finally, we’re working the sl-st in the ch-sp, so just grab the top
of that st and slip into it. Got it?
Row 3 : Front of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch
1, sc in the next sc ;
(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,
sl-st in the next ch-1
sp two rows down) ;
[ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,
sl-st in the next sc two rows up i.e Row 3] ;
ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Now for the following row,
let’s first understand why we’re doing what we are.
So in Row 3, we’ve worked
one set of [sc, ch 1, sc] on that row, but then the chains go into the row
below, so basically we’ve got no stitches except the [to], right?
So in the following row, we’ve
basically got to add these ‘lost’ stitches in as well, so we will work a
combination of {ch 1, sc in the next sc} and then we have (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the middle.
The other thing that we need to
remember is that in the following row, we’ll be working on the wrong side – so
the chains we made are on the other side.
When we work our (dc ; ch 1, dc),
ensure that you work under the ch-5, so that they are flapping freely.
They must.. as they’re the main part of this pattern.
Got it.. Right then,
enough talking.. let’s work this..
Row 4 : Back of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*[ch
1, sc in the next sc] ;
(ch 1, dc in the next sc from Row 2) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to]
once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Once again, we’re working on
our diagonal chain, so yet again we’ll work it in the row below, so the ch-sp
in Row 3.
The advantage is that you don't actually have to look for the ch-sp or sc, as you've already got that figured out in Row 3
Row 5 : Front of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sc in the next sc ;
(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,
sl-st in the next ch-1 sp two rows down i.e. Row 3) ;
[ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,
sl-st in the next sc two rows up i.e. Row 5] ;
ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 6 : Back of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*[ch
1, sc in the next sc] ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to]
once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
And just like that we’re done
with this lovely crossed pattern.
Repeat
Rows 5 & 6 till your project is 1.5 times the round chest measure , ending
with Row 5.
OR As I said before, if you decide
to work this pattern through the whole project, then you will work this crossed
pattern for 2 sleeve lengths plus 1.5 times round chest measure ending
with Row 5.
Next Row : Back of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*[ch
1, sc in the next sc] ;
(ch 1, sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to]
once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In our final row we will work
in each st and ch-sp till the end. Ensure that you have the same number of
stitches here that you started with.
Last Row : Front of work :
sc in the 1st sc ;
*sc
in the next ch-sp ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Back of work
Front of work
If you are working this pattern
all through in crossed pattern, then once done, you will fold your completed
project in half, and join the two sides from each end till the length
needed for the sleeve.
The sleeves are
the ends of this project and the centre of this project is the part that wraps
around the chest.
Fasten off and weave in all
ends and you’re done with your lovely crossed stitch cowl with sleeves.
IF however, you’re making plain
sleeves as I am, then carry on with the instructions here.
1.
As we’re working a
chest portion with the crossed stitch pattern only, then you will work 1.5
times round chest measure in repeats of Rows 5 & 6 , ending with Row 5.
2.
If changing yarn
colours, then fasten off Colour 1, and attach whatever colour you intend for
your sleeve here.
3.
We’ve ended with
Row 5, so work sc in the sc and ch-sps to add up to the same number of
stitches as you started with. So say
you started with 41 sts, at this end, you will have your sc and ch-1 sps, so
just ensure that you work a total of 41 sts in these ch-sps and sc.
Once you have your sc at this
end, and your fsc at the other end, you are ready to start your sleeves.
So for this end, you have your
second coloured yarn for the sleeves.
Once you’re done with this section, you will re-attach your sleeve yarn
for the other side at one end of your start fsc row and repeat these sleeve
instructions.
SLEEVES :
For this portion there are
several options offered , so major decision time.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end. Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Optional : Place a marker in the sl-st if you decide to reduce
and scale the shape down a bit, as I have.
From here on I worked an sc in
each sc all around, but did not join at the end of each row, so that we
work in continuous rounds without the little join at the end.
Now it does not really matter
if you want to join with a sl-st at the end of each round – I just preferred not
to.
If you do decide to work in rounds without joining, please place a marker in
that 1st sc as we will need that 1st sc a little later in
our pattern.
Note for decrease if working
in a round without joining :
At the end of each round one st before the
marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over
the next 2 sts.
This works if you are not joining and are working in
continuous rounds.
Do remember though to move your marker each round so
that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.
Note for decrease if not working
in a round and joining with sl-st at each round :
At the end of each round two
stsbefore the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep
the pattern) over the next 2 sts.
Do remember though to move your marker
each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the
armhole.
Yet again, just continue till
you have the shape just right for the arm you are working this project for.
Finally, I worked this repeat
till I had a length about 2 - 3” shorter than needed from the shoulder to
wrist. I have decided to work the last few
inches in post stitches in such a way that if needed the recipient could
pull it over the palms and have finger-less gloves (of sorts).
So if you feel like doing this then, work till you are about
2 - 3” short of the length needed from shoulder to wrist.
Next Round : sc in the 1st sc and each sc all around, and
join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
From the following round on we
will work in post stitches.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Next Round : fpdc in the 1st sc ; dc in the next sc ;
(fpdc
in the next sc ; dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around,
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st sc.
Next Round : fpdc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(fpdc
in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around,
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rep the above round for the
final few inches, till your sleeves are of the length you need (i.e either till
wrist or till the end of your thumb - for the fingerless gloves).
Fasten off and weave in
ends. We’ve completed one side of our
sleeves.
Re-attach your yarn on the other side of the shoulder bit (i.e in my case the end of the grey rectangle) for the second sleeve.
Work all the rounds of pattern
for the second sleeve as well.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
I’m thrilled at what we’ve made
here today. This is a really
oft-repeated pattern, but with a simple twist and tweak, we’ve created
something different.
Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different
from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it,
I’m sure you’ll agree.
In the Antonia wrap around
shrug pattern, the designer has added a few images, which were not clear (well,
not on my pc), so I thought I’d add a few myself .. just in case you need
guidance on how to drape this rectangle (as I did). I love the explanation that the Antonia wrap
shrug has for the images, which is how I figured (or so I hope) how to drape
this thing around oneself.
If you have other ideas on how we can use this, do let me know.. and we’ll add to this treasure.. this absolutely lovely wrap around cowl shrug pattern.
And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.
AND for our four legged pals.. some fancy neckwear at
Here are some of my older bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
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