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Monday, 20 July 2015

DELICATELY INTRICATE SCARF



DELICATELY INTRICATE SCARF

Is it a coincidence that I saw this lovely intricate and delicate scarf just when there was a Stole/Wrap/Scarf CAL announced on one of my Facebook Crochet groups…. Hmm, I wonder.
I just couldn’t resist this scarf or this opportunity so here are my notes on this lovely creation.

I was lucky to find a chart for this pattern but sadly forgot to note the link. However, this is the Inspirational picture that has got me going.


I’ll qualify this as an Intermediate to Advanced Skill level project.  The stitches used in this creation are basic, but they’ve been used so beautifully and creatively that one needs to have a little better understanding of playing with them.  That said, there is a pretty good chart, and I’ve tried to use that chart as much as possible to simplify the pattern. Hope you enjoy it too.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian 3-ply acrylic 3 mm crochet hook.

Stitches used :

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Picot : A picot is a lovely decorative stitch.  In our pattern today , our Picot is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch) in the dc or ch-sp.
Please read Few Important notes below on picots.
For a quick refresher on how to make a picot stitch, please view link below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                                               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                                               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                                fdc : Foundation Double Crochet  
st : Stitch                                   
                             
Instructions : 

Let us quickly analyse what we’re going to make here today. We start with the a row of foundation double crochet and as we’re working the simple shelled pattern one one side of our scarf, we’re working on a really lovely intricate and lacy larger shelled pattern that will fall over the edge.
The beauty of this pattern is that we work the little complicated edging in while working the body of the scarf.  Now while working the edging, we will be working back and forth along the edging, AND going back and forth across the body of the scarf. There is a lot of turning around and working back on the same row etc, so this becomes an Intermediate to Advanced skill level scarf only because of that.  I would also request that you follow with the chart so that it all becomes just a little simpler.

Few important notes :
For all lacy scarves / wraps etc, I always like to use looser stitches, as they not only add to the laciness, but also block better.
In case of picots, I usually like to do a small swatch and deciding if I like the look of a ch-3 picot or a ch-3 picot with the yarn I’m using.  Even if the pattern says ch-3 and I think a ch-5 looks nicer, I’ll use a ch-5.
This pattern has a lot of picots.. and I’ve suggested you use a ch-3 picot.
Please decide for yourself depending on the yarn you’re using.

Right then, let’s forge ahead.

Start with 13 fdc ; ch 3 and  Turn.
The last ch 3 is to take you up to the next row.  At the end of each row, we’ll have sts like this just before the “Turn” and they will not count as sts to be used in our pattern.

Row 1 :  3 dc in the 1st fdc ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next fdc ; ch 3, sk next 4 fdc, dc in the next fdc ; 3 dc in the next fdc ; ch 3, 3 dc in the last fdc ; ch 4 and Turn.
Yet again, this last ch 4 before the “Turn” are not to be taken into consideration for pattern.

Row 2 :  3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;  ch 3 and Turn.

Our shell pattern will now be the (3 dc , ch 3, 3 dc) ; all done in the ch-3 sps between the shells.

Row 3 :  Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 3, shell in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 and Turn.

Row 4 :  Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , shell in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4 and Turn.

We will start with the first row of our side pattern.  Our side pattern will be done over 10 side rows starting from this row.
For convenience and clarification, I will be naming our side rows just that.. Side Rows

Side Row 1 : ch 8 , sc into the top of the corner dc of Row 2.  Turn.
We will work back on this ch 8 just made.


You will be attaching your last side row back in this ch-8 to then work on the main body of our scarf. Just saying it now, so when we finish our side rows, you are not thrown by all dcs and ch-sps J

Side Row 2 : 12 dc in the ch-8 sp.  Turn.


 In the following row, we will join our lovely furly work to the main body of our scarf.

Side Row 3 : ch 7 ; sk the 1st 6 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 2, sc join with the 1st fdc ; ch 2 and Turn.


 We will now be working on the dc’s and ch-7 sp of Side Row 3.  We will also be adding the first of our picot stitches.  Please read the “how-to” link for picots at the top of the blog.

Side Row 4 : ch 4 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.


Side Row 5 : ch 7 ; sk the 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next 6 dc.  Turn.


 Side Row 6 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.


  Side Row 7 : ch 7 ; sk the next 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times.  Turn.

Side Row 8 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 12 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.

Side Row 9 : ch 7 ; sk the next 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times.  Turn.


Side Row 10 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp ; 3 dc in the 1st ch-8 sp from Side Row 1. Turn.



 So let’s put our work down and look at the loveliness you’ve created.. and share a WIP on all the social network systems.. Instragram it and all that blah J

So we’ve got our first furly, lacy pattern done. 
We started with Row 4 and Side Row 1, so we needed to come back to this row.  The side furl does look .. well, furly, curly.. but it does sit down flat and well after you’ve blocked it. 

For our next side furl, we will need the last 3 picots made on Side Row 10
We also need the 6th dc from that last set of dc you’ve just made on Side Row 10. 
Please place markers if you so desire on these four points.  
I will only refer to them as market picot(s) and marked dc for the next side row set.

We will join the side furl via the marked dc in the start of the next row (i.e Row 5) and the marked picots will be joined to the next furl via the next Side Row 1.

We will continue for the next four rows on the body of the scarf.

Row 5 :   ch 2, Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp (of Row 4) ; 
ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, shell in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4 and Turn.

Row 6 :  Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;  ch 3 and Turn.

Row 7 :  Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 3, shell in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 and Turn.

Row 8 :  Shell in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , shell in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 and Turn.

We’re going to make our Side furl once again at this point.  So while we will follow the same steps, all we’ll do is use the marked picots of the first set to join this new set on.

Side Row 1 : ch 8 , sc into the top of the corner dc of Row 6.  Turn.
Remember that we will work back on this ch 8 just made again.

Side Row 2 : 12 dc in the ch-8 sp.  Turn.

At the end of Side Row 3, we will attach this side row to the body of our scarf.

Side Row 3 : ch 7 ; sk the 1st 6 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 2, attach to the Row 4  corner st ; ch 2 and Turn.

In the following row, we make our picots and we join these picots onto the earlier set of marked picots.


So our picots for joining will be (ch 1, join to earlier picot with sc or sl-st, ch 1 and then sl-st into the 1st ch) for a ch-3 picot
It will be (ch 2, join to earlier picot with sc or sl-st, ch 2 and then sl-st into the 1st ch) for a ch-5 picot

Side Row 4 : ch 4 ; sk the 1st dc ; [dc and picot-join in the next picot] ; rep [to] 2 times ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.

The rest of this pattern is the same as before.

Side Row 5 : ch 7 ; sk the 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next 6 dc.  Turn.

Side Row 6 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.
Side Row 7 : ch 7 ; sk the next 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times.  Turn.

Side Row 8 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 12 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Turn.

Side Row 9 : ch 7 ; sk the next 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times.  Turn.

Side Row 10 : ch 3 ; sk the 1st dc ; dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, sk next dc , dc and picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 11 dc in the next ch-7 sp ; 3 dc in the 1st ch-8 sp from Side Row 1. Turn.

And that completes one pattern repeat. 

Our pattern repeat is from Row 5 to Side Row 10
Continue these repeats till your project is as long as you desire.

My tweak
I wanted a stole-like / wrap-like creation, so after my project was the length I wanted, I started on another similar stole, and then joined the shell stitches to one another – so that I now had 4 shelled stitches per row and the furly curly lacy edges on both sides of my work.

 And now that cat is out of the bag too J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns.    J

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Have a great day and see you soon. J