Friday, 12 August 2016



Just a few days back, I made a dress for a friends grand twin grand daughter .. well, for one of the twins.  I think that has turned out really neat, and I then could not find anything of a similar nature for the second grand child – and I have a long list of dresses that I have pinned at that!  
Then as usual Providence Stepped In and this lovely photo was shared – guess The Universe knew I was looking for something just right !

Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. 

Inspired by this photo  , here are my pattern notes.

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 220 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 5 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

Extended Single Crochet (e-sc) : hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one lp, yo (2 lps on hk),pull through both lps.  One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc).  Check the photo-tutorial in the instructions section.

dc 5-tog : Double crochet 5-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 5 times (6 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 5-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure.

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :

Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                         ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet
e-sc  Extended Single Crochet
hdc : Half Double Crochet
trc : Triple / Treble crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the waist up.  Once again I’ll say, it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.  Whatever you decide, remember that you will work half that round measure (so either half round chest or half round waist).
Also remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

Part 1 : Yoke

We will work one front and one back separately.  There is no stitch count for our yoke.
Our stitch count for the skirt is 16

So here are two ways you can work the yoke.
1.       You work in plain sc / hdc or dc all the way from the waist up to the chest calculating half the round waist measurement
2.     You work in multiples of 8 (which is the skirt stitch count) for the number of stitches you’ll need for half the round waist measurement
The advantage in choosing this option is that when you start with the skirt portion, you do not need to recalculate.  When we reach the skirt portion, there is another tip to increase the flare of your dress, but that’s for later.

Now that you have figured out which measurement you are using, let’s hook on.

Start Row 1 : with as many fsc as needed for the half round waist measurement.

Here’s when you decide which stitch you are going to use.  I have chosen the e-sc or Extended Single Crochet and here’s a quick photo tutorial for the e-sc. Explanation of “how to” is given under Stitches Used at the top of this blog.

 For convenience though, I’m writing it as though we’re using a dc.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the armhole level.

Armhole shaping
For our armhole decrease we will work just one decrease row.

Armhole shaping Row : sl-st in the 1st 4 dc ; 
dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last 4 dc.  Sk last 4 dc.  Turn.

For a little girl age up to 3 yrs, this one decrease should be good enough.

For any further decrease, work as follows

Armhole shaping Decrease Row : dc 2-tog in the 1st 2 dc ; 
dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last 2 dc ; 
dc 2-tog in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Please ensure that when you are decreasing, you check against the chart given for chest measures (or for the across front / across back measure if given) or against a well-fitting garment of the child for whom this is intended.  For little kids, a cut-away neckline may not look good.

Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the neckline level.

For the neckline shaping, figure out how deep and wide you want your neckline, and then place a marker at the point that decides the sides of your neckline.
You will work from the armhole till marked st ; dc in that marked stitch.
You will Rep Row 3, working back and forth from neckline to armhole, till your project reaches the shoulder level, working one shoulder at a time.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Once done, return to the other marker  (for the other side of the neckline) and work a dc in that marked st. 
Once again, Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the shoulder level. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed one side of your yoke.

Repeat instructions for the other side (back) of the yoke.

The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join your two yokes at the shoulders and sides.

Part 2 : Sleeves

You could leave this beautiful creation without sleeves, but if you do decide on a little frill along that edge, then here’s what I’ve done.

Sleeve Round 1 : sc evenly all around your armhole , ensuring you have stitches in multiples of 4.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*  all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Now there are two options for your sleeve (as usual.. options will mean choices, decisions, and chances for creativity for you)

a)   You can opt to work a full circle (round) of stitches and keep joining at the end of each round with a sl-st to the 1st st.  In this case, you will get a full sleeve that goes around the arm
b)   You can opt to do a partial Magyar-type sleeve that works itself in a slight curve / diagonal line off the bottom of the armhole (where it is the least wide) and just grows in width along the shoulder line. 
Option (a) is easy and you will just work in rounds, so I will write the instructions below for Option (b).  Choose your style and let’s create.

We will also use a decorative picot in the following round.  I chose the ch-3 picot for this which will be (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).  Please read the top of this blog for a “how-to” on picot stitches.

We will work our picot stitch in the centre of each ch-4 sp, so instructions will read sc + picot in that sp.

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1st 5 ch-5 sps , sc + picot in that next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*  all around till the 2nd last ch-5 sp ; sc + picot in that ch-5 sp.  Turn.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp , sc + picot in that same ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next sc, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*  all around till the last ch-5 sp.  Turn.

Row 4 - 5 : Rep Row 3.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : You can increase the number of rounds you are creating around each armhole depending on how long you want your sleeve.  Also in case you are working your sleeve in rounds, you will have to work more rounds till you get a decent sleeve length.  Please also ensure that you check the round arm measure of your child and ensure that the round that you are working will fit her.  Great!

Part 3 : Skirt for your beautiful dress

I suggest you work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds.  So one side was the yoke, and we will now work from the other side.

Before we work out our stitch count, two points :
1) Ensure that you manage to get the stitch count by adding stitches if need be ; and
2) The more the number of stitches you have (in multiples, of course), the more the flare / frills on your skirt for this dress.

Our stitch count for the skirt is 16
If you had checked this when working the yoke section, then you’re ready to go, 
or else, just to get the number of stitches right, let’s work our first Start Round with a round of sc all around.

IF YOU HAVE started with multiples of 16 for the yoke, then skip the Start round

Start : sc in 1st st and in each st all round, ensuring you have multiples of 16. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Assuming that you have worked in multiples of 8, we will start working on the other side of that 1st fsc foundation round.

In our 1st round, we will use a lovely combination of sts – so do check out what a hdc and trc are – on top of this blog.

Round 1 : sc in 1st fsc  ; ch 1, hdc in the next st ; {ch 1, dc in the next st} ; rep {to} once ; ch 1, trc in the next st ; *(rep {to} 2 times ; ch 1, hdc in the next st ; ch 1, sc in the next st) ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next st ; rep {to} 2 times ; ch 1, trc in the next st]* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
You will end with a rep of (to).

In the following row, we will work a Special dc 5-tog.  A dc 5-tog is usually worked over 5 sts and here too we will work it over 5 sts which will include ch-1 sps too. So the 1st dc of the dc 5-tog will be over the hdc ; next over a ch-1 sp ; next over a sc ; next over a ch-1 sp and the last over a hdc again.

We will start and end our rounds with this Special dc 5-tog.

This will look a little different from the chart, as the chart is being worked

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st hdc, ch-st and the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next st) ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next st ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, Special dc 5-tog over the next 5 sts ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around, ending with a  Special dc 5-tog over the last 5 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st dc, ch-st ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next st) ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next st ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, Special dc 5-tog over the next 5 sts ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around, ending with a  Special dc 5-tog over the last 5 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And this is our pattern … simple.. a little complicated, but ooh, soooooo pretty.

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 till your project is of the length needed, ending with a Round 4.

Part 4 : Finishing options

So there are two finishing options
1.       Finish off with Round 3, sc in each sc and ch-sp all around
2.     Finish with a ch-3 picot ; which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk). If you choose this option, I’d suggest you work your picot every 4th st all around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? 

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. 
I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

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