Sweet Nothings Crochet: MY PINK CHEVRON DRESS

My Pink Chevron Dress - crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This beautiful Chevron inspired crochet dress for a little girl is just fantastic. The yoke is in off-white and the skirt and small sleeves are in fuchsia pink. There's a lovely pink and white belt to add a bit of fun to the dress.

Just a few days back, I made a dress for a friends grand twin grand daughter .. well, for one of the twins. I think that has turned out really neat, and I then could not find anything of a similar nature for the second grand child – and I have a long list of dresses that I have pinned at that!

Then as usual Providence Stepped In and this lovely photo was shared – guess The Universe knew I was looking for something just right !

Today I’ve used some of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to create your own sensational project. Thank you for joining me.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Inspired by this photo , here are my pattern notes.

Materials used : Today I’ve used crochet hook ;

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 220 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; poly-fill stuffing ; stocking net ; beads n more ; satin ribbon

For Indians : You could use some of our lovely Indian Vardhaman acrylic yarn, Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal 4-ply yarn ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 5 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Abbreviations :

sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook

lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet

sl-st : Slip Stitch

sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only

fsc : Foundation single crochet

hdc : Half Double crochet

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, working from the waist up. Once again I’ll say, it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist. Whatever you decide, remember that you will work half that round measure (so either half round chest or half round waist).

Also remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

PART 1 : YOKE

We will work one front and one back separately.

There is no stitch count for our yoke.

Our stitch count for the skirt is in multiples of 16

So here are two ways you can work the yoke.

1. You work in plain sc / hdc or dc all the way from the waist up to the chest calculating half the round waist measurement

2. You work in multiples of 8 (which is the skirt stitch count) for the number of stitches you’ll need for half the round waist measurement

The advantage in choosing this option is that when you start with the skirt portion, you do not need to recalculate. When we reach the skirt portion, there is another tip to increase the flare of your dress, but that’s for later.

Now that you have figured out which measurement you are using, let’s hook on.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start Row 1 : with as many fsc as needed for the half round waist measurement.

Here’s when you decide which stitch you are going to use. I have chosen the e-sc or Extended Single Crochet and here’s a quick photo tutorial for the e-sc.

Extended single crochet (e-sc) : https://youtu.be/ZeXQ3NLVjPU

or here's a photo tutorial

For convenience though, I’m writing it as though we’re using a dc and here are video tutorials on how to work a dc

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till end. Turn.

Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the armhole level.

ARMHOLE SHAPING

For our armhole decrease we will work just one decrease row.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Armhole shaping Row : sl-st in the 1^st 4 dc ;

dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last 4 dc.

Sk last 4 dc. Turn.

For a little girl age up to 3 yrs, this one decrease should be good enough.

For any further decrease, work as follows

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Armhole shaping Decrease Row : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 dc ;

dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last 2 dc ;

dc 2-tog in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Please ensure that when you are decreasing, you check against the chart given for chest measures (or for the across front / across back measure if given) or against a well-fitting garment of the child for whom this is intended. For little kids, a cut-away neckline may not look good.

Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the neckline level.

For the neckline shaping, figure out how deep and wide you want your neckline, and then place a marker at the point that decides the sides of your neckline.

You will work from the armhole till marked st ; dc in that marked stitch.

You will Rep Row 3, working back and forth from neckline to armhole, till your project reaches the shoulder level, working one shoulder at a time.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Once done, return to the other marker (for the other side of the neckline) and work a dc in that marked st.

Once again, Rep Row 3 till your project reaches the shoulder level.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed one side of your yoke.

Repeat instructions for the other side (back) of the yoke.

The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join your two yokes at the shoulders and sides using one of the methods below

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

PART 2 : SLEEVES

You could leave this beautiful creation without sleeves, but if you do decide on a little frill along that edge, then here’s what I’ve done.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Sleeve Round 1 : sc evenly all around your armhole , ensuring you have stitches in multiples of 4.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Now there are two options for your sleeve (as usual.. options will mean choices, decisions, and chances for creativity for you)

a) You can opt to work a full circle (round) of stitches and keep joining at the end of each round with a sl-st to the 1^st st. In this case, you will get a full sleeve that goes around the arm

b) You can opt to do a partial Magyar-type sleeve that works itself in a slight curve / diagonal line off the bottom of the armhole (where it is the least wide) and just grows in width along the shoulder line.

Option (a) is easy and you will just work in rounds, so I will write the instructions below for Option (b). Choose your style and let’s create.

We will also use a decorative picot in the following round.

I chose the ch-3 picot for this which will be (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

Please read the top of this blog for a “how-to” on picot stitches.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

We will work our picot stitch in the centre of each ch-4 sp, so instructions will read sc + picot in that sp.

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1^st 5 ch-5 sps , sc + picot in that next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 5, sk next sc, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the 2^nd last ch-5 sp ; sc + picot in that ch-5 sp. Turn.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-5 sp , sc + picot in that same ch-5 sp ;

*ch 5, sk next sc, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-5 sp. Turn.

Row 4 - 5 : Rep Row 3.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : You can increase the number of rounds you are creating around each armhole depending on how long you want your sleeve. Also in case you are working your sleeve in rounds, you will have to work more rounds till you get a decent sleeve length. Please also ensure that you check the round arm measure of your child and ensure that the round that you are working will fit her. Great!

PART 3 : Skirt for your beautiful dress

I suggest you work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds. So one side was the yoke, and we will now work from the other side.

Before we work out our stitch count, two points :

1) Ensure that you manage to get the stitch count by adding stitches if need be ; and

2) The more the number of stitches you have (in multiples, of course), the more the flare / frills on your skirt for this dress.

Our stitch count for the skirt is 16

If you had checked this when working the yoke section, then you’re ready to go,

or else, just to get the number of stitches right, let’s work our first Start Round with a round of sc all around.

IF you have started with multiples of 16 for the yoke, then skip the Start round

Start : sc in 1^st st and in each st all round, ensuring you have multiples of 16.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Assuming that you have worked in multiples of 8, we will start working on the other side of that 1^st fsc foundation round.

In our 1^st round, we will use a lovely combination of sts – so do check out what a hdc and trc are – on top of this blog.

Round 1 : sc in 1^st fsc ;

ch 1, hdc in the next st ;

{ch 1, dc in the next st} ;

rep {to} once ; ch 1, trc in the next st ;

*(rep {to} 2 times ; ch 1, hdc in the next st ; ch 1, sc in the next st) ;

[ch 1, hdc in the next st ;

rep {to} 2 times ; ch 1, trc in the next st]* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

You will end with a rep of (to).

Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA

Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8

In the following row, we will work a Special dc 5-tog.

A dc 5-tog is usually worked over 5 sts and here too we will work it over 5 sts which will include ch-1 sps too.

So our Special dc 5-tog is worked over 1^st dc of the dc 5-tog will be over the hdc ; next over a ch-1 sp ; next over a sc ; next over a ch-1 sp and the last over a hdc again.

We will start and end our rounds with this Special dc 5-tog.

This will look a little different from the chart, as the chart is being worked

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st hdc, ch-st and the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) once ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next st ;

*rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, Special dc 5-tog over the next 5 sts ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, 5 dc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around,

ending with a Special dc 5-tog over the last 5 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st dc, ch-st ; dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, 5 dc in the next st ;

*rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, Special dc 5-tog over the next 5 sts ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, 5 dc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around,

ending with a Special dc 5-tog over the last 5 sts and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

And this is our pattern … simple.. a little complicated, but ooh, soooooo pretty.

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 till your project is of the length needed, ending with a Round 4.

PART 4 : Finishing options

So there are two finishing options

1. Finish off with Round 3, sc in each sc and ch-sp all around

2. Finish with a ch-3 picot ; which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3^rd ch from hk). If you choose this option, I’d suggest you work your picot every 4^th st all around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ??

I should also share a new idea I had for the button.

Pattern details & photo here

I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric. I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top. The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go