Tuesday, 31 January 2017

IRISH LACE EAR RINGS - 1

Free crochet pattern, ear ring pattern, Irish lace crochet free ear ring pattern

IRISH LACE EAR RINGS - 1

( #Blogaday 31/365 )

Welcome back to the Sweet Nothings Crochet blog and thanks for joining me once again as we work on this new idea together. J

This is a pattern that I’ve taken off one that I’ve made before.. for a totally different project.  My earlier project was a doily set and here we’re creating jewellery. So come along and let’s see what we’re working on today.

Materials usedToday I’m using the lovely Hilaza Rustica   with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You can make this project using our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton or Red rose knitting cotton with the 1.3 mm crochet hook

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8



Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                                      sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                                 hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                         yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                               sc : Single crochet


In this blog, I am giving you two patterns and you can decide if you want to work the larger or smaller rose.  Add two of these motifs together to form new jewellery and show off your creativity and individuality.
Do remember though, that you got these free patterns from me here, so do share my blog (URL or page link) when you show off your finished product. Thanks.


PATTERN 1 : ROSE MOTIF (Large)

Irish lace ear ring, Crochet Irish lace pattern


Start : with a magic circle and work 6 sc in that circle.  Pull lightly to close circle. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 

Round 1 : 3 dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, 3 dc in the next sc) ; 
rep (to) all around ; 
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(sc ; hdc ; 4 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-5 sp) ; 
*sk 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We have completed one row of petals for our rose flower.

For the 2nd row of petals, we will start with creating a set of ch-5 sps.  For this, we will need to work from behind and under the centre dc of the 3-dc set from Round 1.  You will work a fpsc (front post single crochet) of sorts around this centre dc and work the ch-5 off it.
Now the next confusion : When you finish Round 2, you are at the end of a 3-dc set.  So what I’ve done is work ch-1, turn and work behind and under the centre dc of this same 3-dc set.  It *may* be a little difficult and messy, but it’s going under and the petals will come out of it, so it won’t show.
So this is what I’ve done and you could well find a neater or better way of getting to the dc. Go for it.

Right.. so we’ve got our work cut out.. let’s get to it.

Round 3 : ch 1, and working under the dc of Round 1, sc around the centre dc of the 1st 3-dc set ; 
*ch 5, sk next 2 dc of Round 1, and sc around the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You have created the base for the 2nd set of petals.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(sc ; hdc ; 7 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-5 sp) ;
*sk sc ; rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We have completed our 2nd row of petals for our rose flower.

Once again, we will need to work our chain base for the final row of petals.  This time, will work from behind and under the sc.

Round 5 : ch 1, and working under and around the sc of Round 3 ; *ch 6, and sc around the next sc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You have created the base for the final set of petals.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; (sc ; hdc ; 10 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-6 sp) ;
*sk sc ; rep (to) in the next ch-6 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and leave a tail to attach.




PATTERN 2 : ROSE MOTIF (Small)

Irish lace ear ring, Free crochet pattern, Irish lace ear ring free crochet pattern


Rep ONLY Rounds 1 – 4 from Rose Motif (Large) for this small rose motif. 


Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns
                                                                                       
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  or just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few other jewellery projects I’ve made




























Monday, 30 January 2017

A IRISH LACE DOILY SET

crochet doily set, crochet Irish lace doily set, Crochet Irish lace

A IRISH LACE DOILY SET

( #Blogaday 30/365 )

There’s a wedding coming up.. a friend’s son is to be married and I want to make something really nice and different for her and yet something that can be used.  So after battling through several ideas, I’ve decided to make this small set of exquisite doilies for her.  Look at these photographs that inspired me.. how can you resist this, right?




Welcome back to the Sweet Nothings Crochet blog and thanks for joining me once again as we work on this new idea together. J

Materials usedToday I’m using our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton with a 1.3 mm crochet hook

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8



Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                                     sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                                hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                         yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                               sc : Single crochet


There are several elements to this doily, so rather than talk about it, let’s just pick up our hooks and start.

As I’ve mentioned at the start, this is an Advanced Skill pattern, as the Irish crochet flowers and motifs require a little extra work.  The square motif start also has two start ideas.

PART 1 : SQUARE MOTIF






Note : The fsc chain start is always a great way to start, but I did find here that for this motif maybe a chain start would work too.

So here are two choices for you :
We need to have a start chain of 40 sts.  You can start any way you wish. 

What I have done is work 41 ch, (and then using that last ch as a turning chain), worked a standing chain-less dc (read in stitches used above) into the next ch (or 2nd ch from hk)

As per the chart, you will work 46 ch (40 ch being the start row ; 3 ch being the 1st dc, and the last 3 ch forming the 1st ch-3 sp) ; and then you will work a picot in the 7th ch from hk and continue with the instructions of Row 1.

Choose your option and start.

Start : with 40 sts.  Turn.

In our very first row, we’ll work in a picot stitch.  We will use a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk). 
Check the top of this blog for a “how to” do a picot.

Note : Just for a difference, I’ve worked the individual squares without the picot.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
{ (ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc + picot in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
[ch 5, sk next 5 fsc, dc in the next fsc] } ;
rep { to } 2 times ; dc in the last 3 fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk next sc +picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
rep { to } 2 times till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk sc + picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
rep { to } once ; rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc + picot, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;  
{ [ch 5, sk next sc +picot, dc in the next dc]  ;
(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) } ;
rep { to } once ;
rep [to] once.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk sc + picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
rep { to } once ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk next sc +picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
rep { to } once till end.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk sc + picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk sc and picot, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
rep < to > 2 times ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
{ [ch 5, sk next sc +picot, dc in the next dc] ;
(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) } ;
rep [to] once.  Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk sc + picot, dc in the next dc] } ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; rep < to > till end.  Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
rep < to > 2 times ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
{ (ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
[ch 5, sk next sc +picot, dc in the next dc] } ; Turn.

Row 11 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 2, sk next sc and picot, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
rep < to > once ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep < to > 2 times ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
{ rep < to > 2 times ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc } ; 
rep { to } once ;
[ch 5, sk next sc + picot, dc in the next dc]  ; Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1st dc ;
5 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
< ch 2, dc in the next dc > ; rep < to > once ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc } ; rep { to } once ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep < to > 2 times . Turn.

Note :  This basically finishes one square motif.  I have decided to first run a round of sc all around my motif mainly because I am using a really fine lacy thread and I would like a little stiffness for the edge. 

If you decide to run a round as well, then work 3 sc in each corner (for a good neat turn) and work 2 sc in each vertical dc bar along two sides of your motif.  In each ch along the other two sides of your motif, you will, of course, work 1 sc in each st.
Basically count the number of stitches.  We started with a row of 40 sts, so ensure you have 40 sts all around plus one stitch extra per corner to turn neatly.

As per the chart, in the last round, we’ll work a round of ch-3 sps all around the square motif we’ve just made.  So we’re at one corner, and we’ll start right here.

Round 14 : ch 3, sc in the same corner dc ;
{ (ch 3, sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc } ; rep { to } 2 times ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next corner ; ch 3, sc in the same corner ;
Now we will turn our work 90˚ and work down the motif, along the vertical dc bars and work an sc in the space between 2 dc stitches ;
*ch 3, sk the vertical bar of the next dc, sc in the next st* ; rep *to* till the next corner ; ch 3, sc in the same corner ;
Now once again, we will turn our work 90˚ and work along the other side of the start fsc row of the motif ;
< ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next st > ; rep < to > till the next corner ; ch 3, sc in the same corner ;
Now we will turn our work 90˚ for the last side, and work up the motif, along the vertical dc bars and work an sc in the space between 2 dc stitches ;
rep *to* till the last corner ; ch 3, sc in the same corner.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


PART 2 : ROSE MOTIF (Large)



Start : with a magic circle and work 6 sc in that circle.  Pull lightly to close circle. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. 

Round 1 : 3 dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, 3 dc in the next sc) ; 
rep (to) all around ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(sc ; hdc ; 4 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-5 sp) ; * sk 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We have completed one row of petals for our rose flower.



For the 2nd row of petals, we will start with creating a set of ch-5 sps.  For this, we will need to work from behind and under the centre dc of the 3-dc set from Round 1.  You will work a fpsc (front post single crochet) of sorts around this centre dc and work the ch-5 off it.
Now the next confusion : When you finish Round 2, you are at the end of a 3-dc set.  So what I’ve done is work ch-1, turn and work behind and under the centre dc of this same 3-dc set.  It *may* be a little difficult and messy, but it’s going under and the petals will come out of it, so it won’t show.
So this is what I’ve done and you could well find a neater or better way of getting to the dc. Go for it.

Right.. so we’ve got our work cut out.. let’s get to it.

Round 3 : ch 1, and working under the dc of Round 1, sc around the centre dc of the 1st 3-dc set ; *ch 5, sk next 2 dc of Round 1, and sc around the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You have created the base for the 2nd set of petals.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(sc ; hdc ; 7 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-5 sp) ;
*sk sc ; rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We have completed our 2nd row of petals for our rose flower.

Once again, we will need to work our chain base for the final row of petals.  This time, will work from behind and under the sc.

Round 5 : ch 1, and working under and around the sc of Round 3 ; *ch 6, and sc around the next sc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You have created the base for the final set of petals.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; 
(sc ; hdc ; 10 dc ; hdc ; sc all in the ch-6 sp) ;
*sk sc ; rep (to) in the next ch-6 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and leave a tail to attach.


PART 3 : LEAVES + STEM MOTIF






Our leaf is worked off a chain.  We will start with a chain, and work one set of leaves on one side, then at the top of the leaf stalk, we’ll turn around and come back down the same chain to work leaves on the other side of it.

Start : with 12 + 7 ch = 19 ch (The reason I say it this way is so that you remember we’re working our first leaf on the last 7 ch.

1st leaf : {ch 1, Turn (the ch 1 here being the turning ch, and we’ll work back on the chains just made)
sc in the 2nd ch and in the next 6 ch ;
Turn ; (we’ll work back on the sc just made)
sl-st in the 1st sc ; hdc in the next ch ; dc in the next 3 ch ; hdc in the next ch ; sc in the next ch ;
3 sc in the turning chain at the end of the leaf ;
Turn ; (we’ll work around the end of the leaf and along the back on the sc made for lower part of leaf)
sc in the 1st sc ; hdc in the next ch ; dc in the next 3 ch ; hdc in the next ch ; sl-st in the next ch } ;

Leaves 2 & 3 :  For the next leaf , start with ch 12 and then rep instructions of Leaf 1 from { to }.

Leaves 4 & 5 :  After you complete the 3rd leaf, sl-st down the 5 ch, and then add 7 ch for the next leaf.  You will then rep instructions of Leaf 1 from { to }.

Last stem part :  After you complete the 5th leaf, sl-st down the last 12 ch to finish and strengthen the stem bit of our leaf motif.
Fasten off and weave in ends.


PART 4 : ROSE MOTIF (Small)

Rep Rounds 1 – 4 from Rose Motif (Large) for this small rose motif. 


PART 5 : LEAF MOTIF

Our leaf is worked off a chain.  We will start with a chain and then work side to side off this chain, reducing the ‘end stitch’ so that we get this nice jagged edge of a leaf.

In the finished product, the designer has worked all through in the back loops only.  However, you could choose to work in the back loops or in the sc full stitch.  Totally up to you.  Assuming that you’re working the simpler single crochet all through, that’s how I’ve written the pattern notes.  If you decide to work in back loop, well, you just work sc-blo where ever you read ‘sc’.

Start : with 9 fsc.  Turn.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc and the next 8 fsc till end.  Turn

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 7 sc till end ; 
5 sc in the next sc ; Turn 
(and working along the other side of the fsc chain), sc in the next 7 sc.  Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 8 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 8 sc.  Turn.

Row 4 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 8 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 7 sc.  Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 7 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 8 sc.  Turn.

Row 6 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 8 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn (, sc in the next 7 sc.  Turn.

Row 7 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 7 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 7 sc.  Turn.

Row 8 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 6 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 6 sc.  Turn.

Row 9 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 6 sc till end ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 
Turn, sc in the next 6 sc.  Turn.


PART 6 : FINISHING






Check the diagram below to see how you need to assemble all your pieces together to get the super end result.  Ensure that you block this properly, especially if you too have used the fine lace yarn that I have.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns
                                                                                       
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  or just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few other miscellaneous projects I’ve made