A SANTA INSPIRED NAPKIN DISPENSER
When I saw this Santa inspired napkin
/tissue cover holder, I thought it was the perfect addition to any gift bag or
just as a regular gift.
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This is a pattern I’ve come up with by
looking at this photograph & Santa motif chart.
Edited
: Oh my gosh.. how weird is this? I was posting my blog and this
landed in my inbox !! OK.. so for this pattern, you'll need to add a shell
border (in red) and voila.. one more pattern for you.
Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply
yarns with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
This yarn is not specific for this pattern. Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make today's creation.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Abbreviations used :
ch : chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp : space rep
: Repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
dc : Double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
There are two parts to the Santa napkin
dispenser.
One is the simpler set of
granny squares that make the base, and one is the little Santa motif.
Part 1 : Granny square base
For the granny square, you can choose any
pattern and stitch you like.
All you
need to do is ensure that you get the square to the size measurements of the
tissue you are going to keep inside.
If you’d like to follow my pattern, here
goes. I started with white and used
white all the way till the last round, where I changed to the festive red.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Start with a
magic circle.
(3 hdc ; ch 2) ;
rep (to)
3 times
and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Pull lightly to close the circle.
Round 1 : sl-st to
the 1st ch-2 corner sp ;
(3 hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc) all in the same
corner ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 hdc, rep (to) in the next corner ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* all around;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sl-st to
the 1st ch-2 corner sp ;
(3 hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc) all in the same
corner ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 hdc, 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep
(to) in the next corner ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* all around;
ch 1 and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Round 2 till your project is a neat square
and is suitable to the square size of the tissue you’re going to put inside.
Note : After
working a few rounds, you may not be
next to the corner sp, so you do not need to sl-st all the way to the
corner. You just need to remember that
in every ch-1 sp, you will work 3 hdc ; and in each corner sp, you will work (3
hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc)
Before you end off,
please read the notes for the Granny Square joining strip in Part 2 and decide
how large you want your square.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep all these instructions for the 2nd
(lower portion) granny square.
So you
now have two granny squares ready.
Part 2 : Granny square joining strip
We now have the 2 granny squares, and we need to
join them, keeping a little space in between (so that the napkins can easily be
slipped inside without a fuss).
So here are 2 ideas
1) You
decide to make two granny squares about an inch larger than the paper napkins,
such that you will attach the two squares directly one to the other, and you
will still have a little ease to slip in your napkins. If you have decided on this option, then skip
all instructions below, and go straight to the joining / finishing section Part
3.
2) You
make two granny squares depending on the size of the paper napkins you are
going to keep inside – so you will place your granny square on top of the paper
napkin, and just ensure that you have a small extra margin for ease. If you decide to work this exact sized
finish, then you will need to attach the joining strip
As you’ve stayed on, you’ve decided to make the
joining strip.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial
https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
For the strip, there’s a small calculation.
1) Count
the number of 3-dc sets and ch-1 sps you have from one end to the other,
starting and ending with a 3-dc set (corner to corner).
2) Your
count per side will be this
number + 2. So say you have a five 3-dc
sets across, that’s 15 ; plus four ch-1 sps = 19 + 2 = 21, per side.
3) You
will then multiply this number x 4 for all sides (so per calculation above 21 x
4 = 84)
4) Now
that you have the number of stitches needed, work an fdc strip for that
number.. so in this case, you will work a strip of 84 fdc.
5) Do
not finish off or weave in after you finish the 84th fdc, but carry
on for finishing instructions.
Part 3 : Joining and finishing
If you have decided on Option 1, then you have
two granny squares about 1” larger than your paper napkins. Hold your squares such that you align the
corners and the stitches. Use one of the
joining methods given above to join your two squares all the way end to end on two
sides. On the third side, you will
only attach halfway through both sections and you will then fasten off.
Re-attach you yarn halfway down the fourth section and join that section all
the way to the start join stitch. Fasten
off and weave in ends.
If you have decided on Option 2 and have made
your fdc strip : Hold your strip
starting at one corner, and using one of the joining methods given above, join
one side of your fdc strip to one side of the granny square. Join all four sides of your granny square to
the fdc strip. Fasten off and weave in
ends.
This forms the bottom part of your napkin
holder.
For the top part, you have once again two
options !!
a) You
can work in white yarn, and join the two sides to the fdc strip. On the third side you will only attach
halfway through both sections and you will then fasten off. Re-attach you yarn
halfway down the fourth section and join that section all the way to the start
join stitch. Fasten off and weave in
ends. You will then work in a row of
finishing picot in red yarn. For the
picot decoration, I have worked a (sc in the 1st st ; sc + picot in
the next). In the corner space, I worked
2 sc + picot. I have used the ch-3
picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
b) You
work the (a) option, but using Red yarn directly. IF using this option, please note that (i)
you are going to be joining one side of your granny square to one side of your
fdc chain AND (ii) at the same time, you will be working a sc + picot every
alternate st, plus 2 sc + picot every corner AND (iii) you need to remember
that you are only working 2 full sections this way, and then working the
decorative sc + picot only on the top flap of the holder.
c) Whichever
method you choose from (a) or (b) above, you will need to work a row of sc on
the top of the fdc chain for the opening flap.
So the top part of your flap will have the decorative picot, but for the
lower part (i.e top of the fdc chain), we will just work sc all through. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Great job! The little napkin holder is
ready. We will now work on our cute
little Santa Motif.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at
https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Part 4 : Santa Motif
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Start : (using
light pink)
with a magic circle and 22
sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to
close.
In the following round, we will work half our
round in pink (for face) and the other half in white (for beard).
Round 1 : (using
light pink) :
dc in the 1st 10 sc ;
(attach white yarn , fasten off light pink yarn)
;
dc in the 12 next sc] ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In our white bearded section, we will also work
in a picot stitch.
We will use a ch-3
picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd st from hk)
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Round 3 : (using
white) :
sc in the 1st 10 dc ;
[sc + picot] in the next 12 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Attach red yarn for the cap. Fasten off white yarn.
We will now only work
the cap part. The beard is done.
We will work our cap portion in rows, side to
side.
Row 4 : (using
red) :
hdc in the 1st dc ;
ch
2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
[ch 2, sc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times
;
ch 2, sk next dc, hdc in the last dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
Row 5 : (using
red) :
hdc in the 1st dc ;
ch
2, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;
[ch 2, sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 2 times
;
ch 2, sk next sc, hdc in the last hdc.
Turn.
Row 6 : (using
red) :
hdc in the 1st dc ;
ch
2, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;
[ch 2, sc in the next sc] ;
ch 2, sk next
sc, hdc in the last hdc. Turn.
Row 7 : (using
red) :
hdc in the 1st dc ;
ch
2, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-sp ;
ch 2, sk next sc, hdc in the last
hdc. Turn.
Single crochet 3-tog : sc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at
Row 8 : (using
red) :
sc 3-tog over the 3 sts.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach your
motif to your napkin dispenser.
Santa Motif Finishing :
There are several elements essential for the
little motif, and some ideas that you can add on as desired.
1. Using
an embroidery needle, work a French knot in for the nose in red.
2. Using
an embroidery needle, work two French knots in for the eyes in black.
3. You
may want to attach a white little pom pom (once again a largish French knot
will suffice) for the top of the cap OR you may want to make a tiny little gold
one that could work as a bell.
4. For
the cute little 3D “pom pom” that I’ve made :
a) Start with a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle
; join with a sl-st to the 1st sc and pull tight to close the magic
circle.
b) Round 1 : Work 2
sl-st in each sc all the way through in the next round, and join to the 1st
st. Fasten off and keep a long
tail.
c) Finishing : Using
your embroidery needle, work a running stitch in and out of the 12 s-st just
made, and pull lightly to ball it up.
Pull tight to keep the ball closed, and work in a back stitch to hold
your work close. Attach the 3D ball to
the top of your Santa hat.
Napkin Dispenser Finishing :
You now have the base of the napkin dispenser
(the granny squares) and the Santa motif.
See the picture – one section of your granny
square is folded back to provide easy
access to the napkins. I’ll suggest that
you attach your little motif onto this opened section so that it not only keeps
the section open, but also looks trendy.
Depending on how much of it you want stitched
down, work your stitches around the cap and face (as needed) to secure your
motif to the granny square base.
Now that you’re done with the dispenser, and
find how easy it is to fashion out a Santa motif, maybe you’d like to make a
few more Santa motifs to string up around the tree or mantle ? hmmm.. so many
ideas.. one small blog
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I have a few other miscellaneous crochet stuff
I’ve already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns
… here you go
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