Sweet Nothings Crochet: EXTREMELY SIMPLE REVERSIBLE UNISEX BEANIE

Extremely Simple Reversible Unisex Beanie - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

I’ve been asked to design an extremely simple for a young girl – the only requirement being it is in grey, and probably have an anchor at the end. This is what I’ve decided to make for this special young lady.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue ; embroidery needle

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Optional : Stitch marker

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

For this pattern, we are going to work in all sc and in continuous rounds, without joining at the end of each round. For your convenience, may I suggest you place a marker in the last stitch

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Start : with a magic circle and 4 sc in the circle ; and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pull lightly to close the magic circle.

Round 1 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (8 sts)

Rounds 2 - 4 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (32 sts)

Round 5 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (32 sts)

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (40 sts)

Round 7 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (40 sts)

Round 8 : sc in the 1^st 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (45 sts)

Round 9 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (45 sts)

Round 10 : sc in the 1^st 8 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (50 sts)

Round 11 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (50 sts)

Round 12 : sc in the 1^st 9 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (55 sts)

Round 13 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (55 sts)

Round 14 : sc in the 1^st 10 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (60 sts)

Round 15 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (60 sts)

Round 16 : sc in the 1^st 5 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ;

*sc in the next 11 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* 4 times ;

sc in the last 6 sc (65 sts)

Round 17 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (65 sts)

Round 18 : sc in the 1^st 12 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (70 sts)

Round 19 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (70 sts)

Round 20 : sc in the 1^st 13 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (75 sts)

Round 21 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (75 sts)

Round 22 : sc in the 1^st 14 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (80 sts)

Round 23 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (80 sts)

Round 24 : sc in the 1^st 15 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (85 sts)

Round 25 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (85 sts)

Round 26 : sc in the 1^st 16 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; and in each sc all around (90 sts)

Round 27 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around (90 sts)

At this point, I suggest you either slip this around your head (or that of intended) or measure the circumference to see if you have a good enough fit.

Check the charts given at the top of this blog for head size measurements.

For head wear, I advise that you make the beret / beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.

Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Right then, back to the pattern sheet.

Keep in mind that your yarns as well as your crochet tension need to be accounted and factored in when checking circumference. So if you yarn is really stretchy and you work with a loose tension, you will need to ensure that you work less than the final circumference needed to get a good fit and obviously if you work with a tighter tension and have less stretch in your yarn, you will need to work more than final measures given.

If you decide to increase more, follow the increases for the last Rounds 21 & 22 and increase 5 stitches every two rounds till you get a good fit.

Once you think you’re done with the increases, work without any further increase till your cap is of the measurement needed from crown to brim.

Yet again, double check the length needed here on the charts provided.

Yes, I know that you would probably prefer a perfect measurement and count of how many rounds etc, but this write up is for a general adult size, and it should be easy enough to be adaptable to any size – hence the reference to the charts given.

Right then .. off we go, and meet up when our project is about 1.5” – 2” less than the final length needed (from crown to brim)

When you reach the length needed, continue on with the brim / border instructions.

Brim Border :

For our brim, we will continue to work in rounds, but we will join at the end of each row with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Brim Round 1 : dc in the 1^st sc and in each dc till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Ensure that you have an even number of stitches at the end of this round. Decrease or increase as needed to get an even number of stitches.

From the following round, we will use the fpdc or Front Post Double Crochet stitch.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

If the video does not open, visit me at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Brim Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Brim Rounds 3 & 4 : Rep Brim Round 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

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I have a few pieces of headwear already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go