TURBAN
CAP
One
look at this gorgeous creation and you know that you need to make this
one.
I found notes for this in Russian,
and I was unable to quite figure them out.
These are my notes for what I’ve done.
This
is not an easy creation – the whole project is worked in post stitches.
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for joining me. Come along, let’s create
something exotic
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Materials used : Today
I’ve used some (Indian) Vardhman Crayons yarn with a 4 mm crochet crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Advanced.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet hdc
: Half Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp : space rep
: Repeat
hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch
fdc
: Foundation double crochet
fpdc
: Front post double crochet
bpdc
: Back post double crochet
fpdc
2-tog : Front post double crochet 2-tog
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note
that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please check
the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.
Please note that I take a lot of
trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read
through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.
I have referred to the notes (not in
English) from this pattern sheet at http://chereshnea.blogspot.com/2015/05/chalmakriuchikom.master-klass.html
These
are my notes as I make my project.
This is an advanced skill project
and the pattern is worked in post stitches throughout. It is advanced not just for the stitch used
but also for the calculations and understanding of how a cap fits the head.
This cap is not worked in our usual
way.
The pattern is worked from the back
of the neck, over the crown to the front as one ‘rectangle’ of sorts. We then work two strips at the end which we
wrap around the sides.
Remember
that these two strips add a few inches for the side to side calculation.
So how much does this add? We will work this strip over 5 fpdc (and the
4 bpdc sts in between) stitches. So see
how many inches this is for you.
So calculations : As this is
not a regular round cap that goes around the head, the calculations are a bit
weird.
What I did was measure the length
I needed from the back of the head (nape of neck) to forehead. I also took the ear to ear measurement which
comes roughly halfway down your work.
The pattern per se has no repeat
calculation, so if you get these measurements right, (and with some
experimentation), I think you can make it to any size.
Remember that your yarn has some
stretch and post stitches also give your yarn some more elasticity.
I have made my turban cap for an
adult size.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with 25 fdc.
Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Or view the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next dc ;
*bpdc
around the next dc ; fpdc around the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
bpdc
around both the next 2 dc ;
dc
in last dc. Turn
Row 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*bpdc
around next st ; fpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around next st ;
dc
in last dc. Turn
Row 4 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next st ;
*bpdc
around the next st ; fpdc around the next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 3 sts ;
bpdc
around next 2 sts ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn
Row 5 :
(Increase row) :
dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc
around next 2 fpdc ;
*bpdc
+ dc in the next bpdc ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around the next fpdc ;
dc
in the last dc.
Row 6 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*fpdc
around next 2 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
bpdc
around next bpdc ;
dc
in last dc.
Row 7 :
(Increase row) :
dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc
around next 2 fpdc ;
*bpdc
+ dc in the next bpdc ;
bpdc
around next st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around the next fpdc ;
dc
in the last dc.
Row 8 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*fpdc
around next 3 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
bpdc
around next bpdc ;
dc
in last dc.
Place
a marker here for measurement later
Row 9 :
(Increase row) :
dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc
around next 2 fpdc ;
*bpdc
+ dc in the next bpdc ;
bpdc
around next 2 st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around the next fpdc ;
dc
in the last dc.
Row 10 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*fpdc
around next 4 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
bpdc
around next bpdc ;
dc
in last dc.
Row 11 :
(Increase row) :
dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc
around next 2 fpdc ;
*bpdc
+ dc in the next bpdc ;
bpdc
around next 3 st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around the next fpdc ;
dc
in the last dc.
At
this point my work is about 13 cm from start.
So
I stopped increases and worked bpdc in each bpdc and fpdc in each fpdc till my
work was about 22 cm from start.
Now
before you go off rep Row 12, calculations again.
Go
back to that marker and see how many inches you had for those first few
rows. Those are rows before
increase.
So
you will rep Rows 12 – 13 till you are just those many inches /cm before
the total length you need from nape of neck to forehead.
Row 12 :
dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*fpdc
around next 5 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
bpdc
around next bpdc ;
dc
in last dc.
Row 13 :
dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc around the next 2 sts ;
*bpdc
around next 5 sts ; fpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around next fpdc ;
dc
in last dc.
Rep
Rows 12 - 13 till you are at the length you need, ending with Row 13.
We
then need to decrease using the fpdc 2-tog.
Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI
Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI
Decrease Row 1 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
bpdc
around next 2 bpdc ;
*fpdc
2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
fpdc
around next 3 st ; bpdc around the next fpdc* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
bpdc
around the next fpdc ;
dc
in the last dc.
Decrease Row 2 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc
around the next 2 sts ;
*bpdc
around next 4 sts ; fpdc around next st* ;
rep
*to* till last 2 sts ;
fpdc
around next st ;
dc
in last dc.
Rep
Decrease Rows 1 – 2 till you have 25 sts.
Work
two rows of simple dc in dc ; fpdc around fpdc and bpdc around bpdc for 2 rows.
Check
that you have the length you need from nape of neck to forehead.
Now
we will work two strips from this end.
These strips will then twist around the front of your work and go around
the sides to the back.
These
strips not only cinch and tie up the turban but give it stability.
Now
let’s look at your work. The right side
of work has the long fpdc strips running from back to front. (That said, the other side looks gorgeous as
well, with its multitude of fpdc lines – so you need to decide now which your
right side is. Once you attach these
strips, there is a definite underside to your work)
Along
the front of your work, count off your fpdc rows.
Find
the centre stitch and place a marker there.
For
your strips you will work in pattern all the way till that marked fpdc stitch
and work 1 dc in that marked fpdc stitch.
Turn and work in pattern all the way back.
You
will, obviously, work one strip at a time.
What
length do you work ? This strip needs to
be about 1.5 - 2” short of the side measurement. So basically keep working on your strip and
keep checking how long it is. Once again
keep in mind what I said right at the start about yarn stretch and elasticity
of the post stitches on your yarn.
Finally as this strip is meant to cinch and give shape to the cap, it
needs to be shorter.
Sadly, I cannot give you an exact measurement of how short – this will be your trial and error. If you try to translate the original pattern sheet, you’ll see that the designer too has done some trial and error for this bit.
Sadly, I cannot give you an exact measurement of how short – this will be your trial and error. If you try to translate the original pattern sheet, you’ll see that the designer too has done some trial and error for this bit.
Please
keep tab of how many rows you work this side for easy mirroring for the 2nd
strip.
Once
you finish one strip for one side, you will go back to the other side of that
marked st and work a dc in that st and then work the pattern all the way to the
end. The second strip is easier as you
just need to make it the same length.
Finishing : We have this odd shaped piece with two long
strips coming off one side. We need to
wrap these long strips around the cap.
The left strip goes around the front and along the right side of your
cap. The right strip goes over the front
top (neatly to give the turban effect) and down the left side of your cap. They both attach along the back of your work.
In
the original pattern photos (designer’s), I found that these two strips just
stop along that first row. I needed a
little more tightness and therefore stretched my strips all the way along that
first row and attached both the strips along the back (under that 1st
row). This did mean that I had to be
really neat around the corners of my work, but as that bit goes under the back
of the head, it actually worked out for me.
Yes,
this was not one of the easiest patterns I’ve experimented on – or tried to write
the pattern for but isn’t this just too beautiful a pattern? I’m glad I tried
it out and I love the end result.
Enjoyed
this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have
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Here are some of my other creations.
and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cup-cake-scarf
and a matching cowl at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teer-cowl
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leher-beanie and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lehar-scarf
with a matching cowl https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-cowl
and a pair of fingerless gloves https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-fingerless-gloves
.. and my gloves are at
matching cowl at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/flip-it-cowl.html ; matching beanie at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/flip-it-beanie.html
Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/peek-a-boo-infinity-cowl
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/manga-maalai-wrap
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aasaan-wrap
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
