Sweet Nothings Crochet: TURBAN CAP

Sweet Nothing Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a turban cap, photo of the turban cap,

One look at this gorgeous creation and you know that you need to make this one.

I found notes for this in Russian, and I was unable to quite figure them out.

These are my notes for what I’ve done.

This is not an easy creation – the whole project is worked in post stitches.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Indian) Vardhman Crayons yarn with a 4 mm crochet crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Sweet Nothing Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a turban cap, photo of the yarn used,

Difficulty level : Advanced.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

fdc : Foundation double crochet

fpdc : Front post double crochet

bpdc : Back post double crochet

fpdc 2-tog : Front post double crochet 2-tog

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.

Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.

I have referred to the notes (not in English) from this pattern here

These are my notes as I make my project.

This is an advanced skill project and the pattern is worked in post stitches throughout. It is advanced not just for the stitch used but also for the calculations and understanding of how a cap fits the head.

This cap is not worked in our usual way.

The pattern is worked from the back of the neck, over the crown to the front as one ‘rectangle’ of sorts. We then work two strips at the end which we wrap around the sides.

Remember that these two strips add a few inches for the side to side calculation.

So how much does this add? We will work this strip over 5 fpdc (and the 4 bpdc sts in between) stitches. So see how many inches this is for you.

So calculations : As this is not a regular round cap that goes around the head, the calculations are a bit weird.

What I did was measure the length I needed from the back of the head (nape of neck) to forehead. I also took the ear to ear measurement which comes roughly halfway down your work.

The pattern per se has no repeat calculation, so if you get these measurements right, (and with some experimentation), I think you can make it to any size.

Remember that your yarn has some stretch and post stitches also give your yarn some more elasticity.

I have made my turban cap for an adult size.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start Row 1 : with 25 fdc. Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

Or view the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ; bpdc around the next dc ;

*bpdc around the next dc ; fpdc around the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 dc ;

bpdc around both the next 2 dc ;

dc in last dc. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; fpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*bpdc around next st ; fpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around next st ;

dc in last dc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ; bpdc around the next st ;

*bpdc around the next st ; fpdc around the next st* ;

rep *to* till last 3 sts ;

bpdc around next 2 sts ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 5 : (Increase row) :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

fpdc around next 2 fpdc ;

*bpdc + dc in the next bpdc ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around the next fpdc ;

dc in the last dc.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^stdc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*fpdc around next 2 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

bpdc around next bpdc ;

dc in last dc.

Row 7 : (Increase row) :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

fpdc around next 2 fpdc ;

*bpdc + dc in the next bpdc ;

bpdc around next st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around the next fpdc ;

dc in the last dc.

Row 8 : dc in the 1^stdc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*fpdc around next 3 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

bpdc around next bpdc ;

dc in last dc.

Place a marker here for measurement later

Row 9 : (Increase row) :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

fpdc around next 2 fpdc ;

*bpdc + dc in the next bpdc ;

bpdc around next 2 st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around the next fpdc ;

dc in the last dc.

Row 10 : dc in the 1^stdc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*fpdc around next 4 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

bpdc around next bpdc ;

dc in last dc.

Row 11 : (Increase row) :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

fpdc around next 2 fpdc ;

*bpdc + dc in the next bpdc ;

bpdc around next 3 st ; fpdc around the next fpdc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around the next fpdc ;

dc in the last dc.

At this point my work is about 13 cm from start.

So I stopped increases and worked bpdc in each bpdc and fpdc in each fpdc till my work was about 22 cm from start.

Now before you go off rep Row 12, calculations again.

Go back to that marker and see how many inches you had for those first few rows. Those are rows before increase.

So you will rep Rows 12 – 13 till you are just those many inches /cm before the total length you need from nape of neck to forehead.

Row 12 : dc in the 1^stdc ; bpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*fpdc around next 5 sts ; bpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

bpdc around next bpdc ;

dc in last dc.

Row 13 : dc in the 1^stdc ; fpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*bpdc around next 5 sts ; fpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around next fpdc ;

dc in last dc.

Rep Rows 12 - 13 till you are at the length you need, ending with Row 13.

We then need to decrease using the fpdc 2-tog.

Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI

Decrease Row 1 :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

bpdc around next 2 bpdc ;

*fpdc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;

fpdc around next 3 st ; bpdc around the next fpdc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

bpdc around the next fpdc ;

dc in the last dc.

Decrease Row 2 :

dc in the 1^stdc ;

fpdc around the next 2 sts ;

*bpdc around next 4 sts ; fpdc around next st* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sts ;

fpdc around next st ;

dc in last dc.

Rep Decrease Rows 1 – 2 till you have 25 sts.

Work two rows of simple dc in dc ; fpdc around fpdc and bpdc around bpdc for 2 rows.

Check that you have the length you need from nape of neck to forehead.

Now we will work two strips from this end. These strips will then twist around the front of your work and go around the sides to the back.

These strips not only cinch and tie up the turban but give it stability.

Now let’s look at your work. The right side of work has the long fpdc strips running from back to front. (That said, the other side looks gorgeous as well, with its multitude of fpdc lines – so you need to decide now which your right side is. Once you attach these strips, there is a definite underside to your work)

Along the front of your work, count off your fpdc rows.

Find the centre stitch and place a marker there.

For your strips you will work in pattern all the way till that marked fpdc stitch and work 1 dc in that marked fpdc stitch. Turn and work in pattern all the way back.

You will, obviously, work one strip at a time.

What length do you work ? This strip needs to be about 1.5 - 2” short of the side measurement. So basically keep working on your strip and keep checking how long it is. Once again keep in mind what I said right at the start about yarn stretch and elasticity of the post stitches on your yarn.

Finally as this strip is meant to cinch and give shape to the cap, it needs to be shorter.
Sadly, I cannot give you an exact measurement of how short – this will be your trial and error. If you try to translate the original pattern sheet, you’ll see that the designer too has done some trial and error for this bit.

Please keep tab of how many rows you work this side for easy mirroring for the 2^nd strip.

Once you finish one strip for one side, you will go back to the other side of that marked st and work a dc in that st and then work the pattern all the way to the end. The second strip is easier as you just need to make it the same length.

Finishing : We have this odd shaped piece with two long strips coming off one side. We need to wrap these long strips around the cap. The left strip goes around the front and along the right side of your cap. The right strip goes over the front top (neatly to give the turban effect) and down the left side of your cap. They both attach along the back of your work.

In the original pattern photos (designer’s), I found that these two strips just stop along that first row. I needed a little more tightness and therefore stretched my strips all the way along that first row and attached both the strips along the back (under that 1^st row). This did mean that I had to be really neat around the corners of my work, but as that bit goes under the back of the head, it actually worked out for me.

Yes, this was not one of the easiest patterns I’ve experimented on – or tried to write the pattern for but isn’t this just too beautiful a pattern? I’m glad I tried it out and I love the end result.

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/coffee-bean-beanie.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/vikarna-beanie.html