With every row, you will increase one 3-dc set.
Rep Row 3 till you have the height you need for your beanie (8" in my case)
When you reach that point, you will work a decrease along one end (which as I mentioned before is going to be your right hand side bottom edge)
The decrease idea works for both the height and length.
So when you reach the height for your beanie, you'll only decrease on the right end of your work to start with.
Once you get the length for your beanie, as well, you'll be decreasing on both the right and left ends of your work. At the end, you will get a rectangle that will then be fashioned into the beanie.
To decrease, we will be working a dc 2-tog but we will be working it over 2 sts that are not next to one another.
So let’s look at the last few stitches.
You have a dc, then a ch-1 and the 1st set of 3-dc. Right?
So you will work the 1st leg of your dc 2-tog on that 1st dc, then skip the next 2 dc of your 3-dc set, and work the 2nd leg of your dc 2-tog over the next dc.
So your dc 2-tog will be over these four stitches, skipping 2 sts in between. Got it?
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Decrease Row (only right end of work) :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and 4th dc, skipping 2 dc and the ch-1 sp in between ;
ch 1, 3 dc in the space between the next 2 dc ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the space between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] till the last ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in that last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
(you have reduced one 3-dc set and have this edge flat)
Now that dc 2-tog at the end becomes the 1st dc.
With every row, you will continue increases along one edge (the left hand side of your work) and decrease along the other edge (right hand side of your work) to keep this edge flat and straight.
You will continue this till you have the length needed for your beanie.
Once you have the length needed, you need to decrease along both edges.
The decrease along the right hand side of your work is as before – and it’s “a mirror image” for the left hand side of your work.
So here’s how the mirror image will look.
Decrease Row (right & left end of work) :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and 4th dc, skipping 2 dc and the ch-1 sp in between ;
ch 1, 3 dc in the space between the next 2 dc ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the space between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] till the last 3 dc set ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next dc (of that last 3-dc set) and the last dc, skipping 2 dc and the ch-1 sp in between. Turn.
(you have reduced two 3-dc sets and have this edge flat)
Now the dc 2-tog at both ends is the 1st dc.
You will continue reducing at both ends till you have just one 3-dc set ;
two ch-1 sps and 2 dc left.
We will work a dc 3-tog but once again an ‘odd’ stitch, worked over these 3 sts and 2 ch-sps, skipping 2 dc and two ch-sps in between.
For the last triangular corner, work a dc 3-tog over the 1st dc, sk the next ch-1 sp and dc of the 3-dc set ; dc in the next dc of the 3-dc set ; sk the next dc of the 3-dc set and ch-1 sp and dc in the 3rd dc.
Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment. Use one of the joining methods below to join the shorter (8") sides first. You will end up with a cylinder.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM Then run a running stitch along one of the open ends to make this into a beanie.
You could end just like this, or you could work one of the optional finishes.
Optional finish :
I have opted to work a small brim.
To start run a round of sc or hdc all around the open end (brim end).
There is no specific stitch count. Work 1 st in each horizontal dc bar, and 1 dc per st.
Just ensure that (a) the round you work stays flat (doesn't fan out) and you get a relaxed circumference that you need for your beanie. (So in my case I've got 22" round and that's what I wanted)
Finish 1 :
Work about 1" - 2" (depending on how long you want it from crown to brim),in sc or hdc all round.
Finish 2 :
Work about 1" - 2" (depending on how long you want it from crown to brim),in sc or hdc all round.
Then you could work a round of crab stitch or reverse single crohet stitch to get a beaded finish
Finish 3 :
Work about 1 1/2 - 2" (depending on how long you want it from crown to brim),in fpsc, fhdc or fpdc all round.
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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